Painting a fiberglass boat

[ajochum]

As some might remember, I purchased a 2+3 Donzi this summer. My wife and I have decided to keep our old little 16' 1967 Glastron for a "spare".

The fiberglass is dulled and scratched. I am considering painting it, and wondered if any of you have had any success using paint and just what kind is the best; ie: Urathane, Enamel, Lacquer, Base-coat, clear-coat, etc.

Last year I repaired the boat in a spot and used just a spray can of something like Plasti-coat and noticed it "bubbled" after having been in the water for the summer. Obviously, I don't want that to happen with the new paint.

I have seen some of the restorations on our Donzis and they all use paint, so it seems acceptable.

Ideas?

Thanks,

AJ

[VetteLT193]

My Donzi is being sprayed with Awlgrip. Imron is another good choice...

If you are doing this on your own, Interlux makes a product called "Perfection" that is basically (as I understand it) Awlgrip with a pre-set mix that is designed to be rolled / tipped for the home user.

There are other marine options, it all depends on what you are really looking for. All of the products I listed are high end with long life and little fade. I think Awlgrip is 10 years direct sun with no fade. Imron is roughly the same... Perfection is 8 or so years direct sun.

In my experience once someone has switched to a high end product like these they usually don't want to ever go back to straight gel... they are better in almost every way.

[mk32j]

my 24 donzi was painted with Imron and I love its ease of cleaning and wax seems to stay better on it, then gelcoat!

[mattyboy]

paint is better in all ways except water immersion,

any paint no matter what is going to bubble after a season or two left in the water the more time the paint is out of the water the better , on a lift on the trailer but if it is in the water for weeks or months at a time it will bubble don't ask how I know this

[ajochum]

Please!! Someone contradict Mattyboy. I don't want any bubbling on my paint. Unfortunately, this boat will have to stay in the water for three months of the season. My Donzi gets the boat lift! :)

[yeller]

ajochum, I don't think anyone is going to contradict mattyboy on that one.

Hopefully I'm not stealing your thread, but I've always been curious about if you want to paint with metal-flake. Would you have to use an "automotive" paint for that, or does Awlgrip/Imron have a paint for that?

[Conquistador_del_mar]

As some might remember, I purchased a 2+3 Donzi this summer. My wife and I have decided to keep our old little 16' 1967 Glastron for a "spare".

The fiberglass is dulled and scratched. I am considering painting it, and wondered if any of you have had any success using paint and just what kind is the best; ie: Urathane, Enamel, Lacquer, Base-coat, clear-coat, etc.

Last year I repaired the boat in a spot and used just a spray can of something like Plasti-coat and noticed it "bubbled" after having been in the water for the summer. Obviously, I don't want that to happen with the new paint.

I have seen some of the restorations on our Donzis and they all use paint, so it seems acceptable.

Ideas?

Thanks,

AJ

Like has been mentioned, you can not leave a painted boat in the water. I have painted many boats with Imron back when I did it professionally. In fresh water, I found that 10 days was about the maximum time it could be left in the water before the paint softened and it would start to bubble. If it is taken back out of the water for a period of time, it was fine. I always recommended to my customers to trailer it or store it on a hydrohoist. As far as sun fade and durability - the polyurethanes like Imron and Awlgrip can't be beat. Just leave it out of the water if you paint it. You will love the gloss and ease of clean up. Imron's slogan used to be "the wet look that lasts" Bill

[Conquistador_del_mar]

ajochum, I don't think anyone is going to contradict mattyboy on that one.

Hopefully I'm not stealing your thread, but I've always been curious about if you want to paint with metal-flake. Would you have to use an "automotive" paint for that, or does Awlgrip/Imron have a paint for that?

If you mean a metallic paint, yes, Imron comes in single stage metallics. If you mean a true metal flake like the bass boats or old Glastron Carlsons, it really needs to be put on with a clear gelcoat with UV inhibitors. I hope this helps, Bill

[dwiggl]

I would agree with Bill. With metalflake, you are basically "floating" the flakes in clear, and they need a base color underneath also. Gel is easiest to do that. You will end up with a finish that is so thick that it will crack, over time, from substrate flex and expansion/contraction due to the heat of the sun. Look at the transom of a well used metalflake bass buggy......
I would also agree that metalflake is waaay kool if done tastfully! Don

[VetteLT193]

People have had good results with Awlgrip in wet areas, below the waterline, in bait wells, etc. Imron has similar results.

The kicker is neither Awlgrip or Imron are meant for below the waterline. They will eventually have a problem if left in the water long enough. The quality of the job, mix of the materials, etc. all play into how long they will last. Some leave in for seasons at a time with no problem. Others with larger boats (main name brand being Hatteras) have problems even above the water line in places that get wet constantly... could have been sprayed an off day by the painter, or who knows.

The other thing that people tend to leave out is gelcoat is also not meant to be used below the waterline either... and awlgrip / imron are not porous like gel is so in theory they should be better.

I can't say that I would chance it by putting a boat in the water for 3 months at a time in any instance.

[ajochum]

Thanks for all the great answers. This gets me thinking, maybe what I should do is paint the top of the boat and everything to the water line and leave the rest as it is. Do like the metal-flake concept - takes away the originality, but sure would look nice.

[Conquistador_del_mar]

People have had good results with Awlgrip in wet areas, below the waterline, in bait wells, etc. Imron has similar results.

The kicker is neither Awlgrip or Imron are meant for below the waterline. They will eventually have a problem if left in the water long enough. The quality of the job, mix of the materials, etc. all play into how long they will last. Some leave in for seasons at a time with no problem. Others with larger boats (main name brand being Hatteras) have problems even above the water line in places that get wet constantly... could have been sprayed an off day by the painter, or who knows.

The other thing that people tend to leave out is gelcoat is also not meant to be used below the waterline either... and awlgrip / imron are not porous like gel is so in theory they should be better.

I can't say that I would chance it by putting a boat in the water for 3 months at a time in any instance.

I have seen boats start to develop problems with as little as two weeks in the water - this is why I mentioned 10 days as a maximum. I personally would not want to chance repainting one. By the way, how much paint did it end up being for your work? Bill

[VetteLT193]

I have seen boats start to develop problems with as little as two weeks in the water - this is why I mentioned 10 days as a maximum. I personally would not want to chance repainting one. By the way, how much paint did it end up being for your work? Bill

I chickened out and paid someone:nilly:

Hopefully I'll get it back next week... it's been months. But, the guy totally re-did my prep work, got everything down to nothing but gel including the bottom, filled all the holes I asked him to, blocked the whole thing including the bottom, then did the Awlgrip + 4 coats of clear so I can't feel the stripes.

It's been raining like nuts down in the keys (where the boat is at) and the guy won't spray when the humidity is too high.

Anyway, I'll post pics when I get it back:cool:

[cutwater]

But, the guy totally re-did my prep work, got everything down to nothing but gel including the bottom, filled all the holes I asked him to, blocked the whole thing including the bottom, then did the Awlgrip + 4 coats of clear so I can't feel the stripes.

Can't wait to see it.

[VetteLT193]

Can't wait to see it.

you and me both!!!:biggrin:

maybe next weekend...

[yeller]

If you mean a true metal flake like the bass boats or old Glastron Carlsons, it really needs to be put on with a clear gelcoat with UV inhibitors. I hope this helps, BillThat is what I meant. :yes:

I have to repaint the white stripes on my boat so I've been thinking of doing them with a metal flake (but not as large as the bass boats). I know there are those that would cringe at the thought of metal flake on a Classic......but I like what I like.

[yeller]

Gel is easiest to do that. You will end up with a finish that is so thick that it will crack, over time, from substrate flex and expansion/contraction due to the heat of the sun.

So back to my original question......can metal flake be done with an Imron or Awlgrip?? I'd like the most durable paint possible. I only want to do the deck stripe and not the boot stripe. The boot stripe is damaged from the original owner leaving it in the water, but I only plan on redoing that in a straight white Imron/Awlgrip.

[zelatore]

I can't say if it was a price-point decision or technical decision, but our new Marquis are available with a metallic paint on the hull sides. We're not talking bass boat metal flake here - much more subtle than that - but it is a metallic paint.

They're using a Dupont automotive base/clear system. I was surprised to learn this as I expected one of the marine systems like Sterling, Imron, Awlgrip, etc.

And BTW, my vote for the best below the waterline finish would be epoxy. Expensive, but nearly impervious to constant immersion. It's what we've been using on our yachts for years and I can only think of one case of blistering which as due to a mistake in layup around a bow thruster tube. Even that was fairly minor.

[yeller]

And BTW, my vote for the best below the waterline finish would be epoxy. Expensive, but nearly impervious to constant immersion. It's what we've been using on our yachts for years and I can only think of one case of blistering which as due to a mistake in layup around a bow thruster tube. Even that was fairly minor.
Excuse my ignorance......Epoxy? I only know product names, not what they are. Can you give me more info?

[gcarter]

Excuse my ignorance......Epoxy? I only know product names, not what they are. Can you give me more info?
System Three, near you in Seattle, makes some 100% solids epoxies for just those applications. They must be properly primered and bottom painted. Epoxy doesn't hold up to UV at all. But the proper products are completely waterproof and will last literally forever.

[ajochum]

So with the epoxys - Can you spray them on? Are they a typical 2 part mix that could be thinned out, or is it something thick that you would brush on? Tintable, I would assume? Would you have a couple of brand names?

[Conquistador_del_mar]

So back to my original question......can metal flake be done with an Imron or Awlgrip?? I'd like the most durable paint possible. I only want to do the deck stripe and not the boot stripe. The boot stripe is damaged from the original owner leaving it in the water, but I only plan on redoing that in a straight white Imron/Awlgrip.

Metal flakes are fairly large and lay on in every direction including vertically. There are all sizes, shapes, and colors of metal flakes. If you really wanted to use Imron you could, but you would have to keep adding coats of the Imron clear to cover all the metal flakes. You would then have to wet sand it to a flat surface since the metal flakes will look like a paint job with trash in it and then you could paint a finish coat of the clear. You would end up with a deck stripe that is roughly 1/16" or so thick. I hope this helps, Bill

[yeller]

So Bill, do the flakes lay flatter when done with an "automotive" paint or will the process (and finished thickness) be the same as you've mentioned with the Imron?

ajochum, hope you don't mind me asking questions in your thread.

[ajochum]

Not a bit - am learning as this progresses. What a fun afternoon - at least the temperature is in the 60s - am cleaning the bottom of the boat - as I'm sure many of you are on a day like today. Start out sort of leaning under it, end up saying s... it, and lie under it, wet, etc. Makes me think of looking for two boat lifts... Oh, well, at least it is beautiful out and am ahead of the game for once.

[Conquistador_del_mar]

So Bill, do the flakes lay flatter when done with an "automotive" paint or will the process (and finished thickness) be the same as you've mentioned with the Imron?

ajochum, hope you don't mind me asking questions in your thread.

Imron by Dupont is an automotive and aircraft paint with great characteristics. It was only later that so many people including myself started using it as a finish coat on the gelcoat of boats for the same reasons it was used on aircraft - longevity, durability, flexibility, gloss, etc. It is a very thin low viscosity paint that runs fairly easily. It is a catalized (2 part) paint like the other polyurethanes. I hope this helps. Bill