Engine Options ??

[2donzi2]

Restoring a 72, 18 classic, 383 with a 280 volvo outdrive. Engine is out and am going to go through. What are some good cam shaft, intake, head and exhaust options? I don't want to waste money on internals that don't work for this application. Any input will be greatly appreciated. Not looking to be the fastest, just want good power with reliability. Thanks, Mike

[ky-donzi]

2Donzi2

You might consider moving this to the tech section. It will get alot more responses

[tonytaylor30525]

All of my (Ford) marine studies suggest long duration cams (with high lift), and breathability, ie: good flowing intake and valve combinations . This can be achieved without sacrificing dependability and "driveability" , with moderation.
Remeber, a boat is ALWAYS requiring torque from the engine because of drag and drive inefficencies .
Check w/ a reputable engine shop that will listen to your desires, and consider your application : pushing a XXXX # vessel through water . Drive and prop selection also should weigh into your considerations/
GOOD LUCK !!!
TT

[BigGrizzly]

I am staying out of this because my stuff is different-boys and girls its the combination not just the cam.

[MOP]

Which 383? Stroked small block Chevy or one of the rarer 383 Chrysler's?

[tonytaylor30525]

Exactly my point BigGriz, that if one buys a auto crate engine, it will be an inboard anchor at best, and as stated, with moderation, a good builder or machine shop will be able to spec the cam (duration) etc. to match the need, if they do their homework with all info !
Assumed (I know better) that 383 refered to Mopar ??? (Not even aware if Mopar has ever been a factory choice) Another important piece of the puzzle.

[tonytaylor30525]

Anything can be considered "junk" if not used properly, but no, not all are junk , just as not all long duration cams cause "reversion" .
I've outrun a lot of powerful auto racing engines put in a boat . . . .

[zelatore]

So, am I to assume ALL auto crate engines are junk for marine purposes?

Fiesty today...must be the stock market...:wink:

[The Hedgehog]

Fiesty today...must be the stock market...:wink:

We have all had a bad day in the market. Over all I think that Scott has a good point.

That does not mean that under certain circumstances I would not throw a good marinized engine in a boat that I owned and have a blast. :pimp:I think he just means that you need to be careful.

[2donzi2]

Thanks for some of the responses. The motor which came out of the boat was a 350 chevy, bored to 383 running through a volvo 280 outdrive. Not sure of what is in the motor but is a marine engine. Am going to start pulling it apart next week. Would like to know if anyone has had better luck with certain combinations. Agree with the comment about water reversion and automobile engines compared to marine engines. It takes more to push a boat in water than a car on wheels.

[joseph m. hahnl]

Thanks for some of the responses. The motor which came out of the boat was a 350 chevy, bored to 383 running through a volvo 280 outdrive. Not sure of what is in the motor but is a marine engine. Am going to start pulling it apart next week. Would like to know if anyone has had better luck with certain combinations. Agree with the comment about water reversion and automobile engines compared to marine engines. It takes more to push a boat in water than a car on wheels.

I guess the key then<Would be to stick to a marine application Cam shaft.
When talking stock Mercruiser Power.There isn't much difference in applications other than everything is GM Performance parts.Marine Motors don't use Magical parts that are completely different.
"it's just away to charge more money for the same thing"
Somethings like the intake manifold are Modified. I Don't do it for a living so I don't Know if they slot the bores on an intake manifolds in a auto application. It's the electrics that truly matter as they are suppose to be shielded to eliminate a source of combustion when fumes are present in the bilge. The thing that you want to consider is, use seals that are ethanol compatible.As they add more and more to our fuels more and more failures will occur.

[smokediver]

I guess the key then<Would be to stick to a marine application Cam shaft.
When talking stock Mercruiser Power.There isn't much difference in applications other than everything is GM Performance parts.Marine Motors don't use Magical parts that are completely different.
"it's just away to charge more money for the same thing"
Somethings like the intake manifold are Modified. I Don't do it for a living so I don't Know if they slot the bores on an intake manifolds in a auto application. It's the electrics that truly matter as they are suppose to be shielded to eliminate a source of combustion when fumes are present in the bilge. The thing that you want to consider is, use seals that are ethanol compatible.As they add more and more to our fuels more and more failures will occur.
The piston rings tolerances are a little different , dry exhaust needs to be thought about or a longer length riser when cam durations start getting over 240 degrees ... the ignition , carb , are different but agreed , a good solid auto short block with brass freeze plugs can turn into a good marine engine