Hatch Help Please

[slapshot11]

I can't get the engine hatch on my 22' open. :confused: It opened this morning before I ran with the Lake George Classic Donzi Club. Now it's stuck. The hatch knob turns as usual and the spring on the knob works in that the knob returns to the up position after being compressed. Everything seems to work except that it won't open!
I tried to remove the hinges on the rear of the hatch but they're through bolted so I can't get them out.
Is the only option going to be to saw the top of the knob off and replace it with a new one? I hope not.

[mrfixxall]

I can't get the engine hatch on my 22' open. :confused: It opened this morning before I ran with the Lake George Classic Donzi Club. Now it's stuck. The hatch knob turns as usual and the spring on the knob works in that the knob returns to the up position after being compressed. Everything seems to work except that it won't open!
I tried to remove the hinges on the rear of the hatch but they're through bolted so I can't get them out.
Is the only option going to be to saw the top of the knob off and replace it with a new one? I hope not.


sounds like the roll pin moved to where it is still in the locked position..or the exhaust risers got hot and melted to the rear hatch..give the knob a good yank whyle wiggling the knob.

[cutwater]

or the exhaust risers got hot and melted to the rear hatch..

That's good stuff.

[penbroke]

Let's see... You were with the fine folks of the Lake George Classic Donzi Club and now your boat exibits a relatively minor yet frustrating problem... I have to ask: Was the boat ever out of your sight? Even if only for a moment?? :eek!:


Frank :lookaroun:

[MOP]

To avoid damage you need to cut a 4" hole behind the seat, you need to center the roll pin to get it back to working. The pin id strong enough to tear the lower part of the hatch latch off making for more work. There was another post about the same issue, you could try a search.

Phil

[Kirbyvv]

Happened to me this summer. I was lucky enough to be able to wiggle it free after about an hour of screwing around. exactly what mrfixxall said, the roller pin had shifted and wouldn't slip through the opening. Look at one that is open and maybe you can figure which way to move it. Otherwise I was getting ready for the hole saw routine MOP suggested.

[slapshot11]

I've already tried the wiggle thing for about 30 minutes. Maybe another 30 minutes will do it.
I'm interested that no one has suggested sawing off the top on the knob and replacing it wiith a new one as opposed to the 4" hole routine. That hole would have to go through both the back of the seat as well as the fiberglass diamond plate. Seems like more work that the sawing approach.

[mrfixxall]

I've already tried the wiggle thing for about 30 minutes. Maybe another 30 minutes will do it.
I'm interested that no one has suggested sawing off the top on the knob and replacing it wiith a new one as opposed to the 4" hole routine. That hole would have to go through both the back of the seat as well as the fiberglass diamond plate. Seems like more work that the sawing approach.

If you pull the knod and twist it at the same time the pin may work its self back into place..or with the latch in the open position try moving the latch forward and backwards whyle lifting on the latch to push the pin back into place..

[BUIZILLA]

I had the same issue with one of the boats....

what *I* did was use some hickory wood with a *U* channel so it slid under the knob and I pried up carefully until it bent the pin and allowed it to release it's grip... be careful.......

you want to know what a problem REALLY is... try having an electric hatch opener and you lose voltage source and your 300 miles from home and the engine won't start either.... that's a problem

[DONZI]

I had the same issue with one of the boats....
what *I* did was use some hickory wood with a *U* channel so it slid under the knob and I pried up carefully until it bent the pin and allowed it to release it's grip... be careful.......

Yup, i had to do the same thing for someone else.
Blanket & wood & pry bar.
You can pick up a new pin at the local auto parts store.

[CHACHI]

I've already tried the wiggle thing for about 30 minutes. Maybe another 30 minutes will do it.
I'm interested that no one has suggested sawing off the top on the knob and replacing it with a new one as opposed to the 4" hole routine. That hole would have to go through both the back of the seat as well as the fiberglass diamond plate. Seems like more work that the sawing approach.Auto fire extinguisher sitting on the other side of the fiberglass diamond plate?

According to Mr. Carter, Donzi is quite proud if those hatch latches.George never metioned a price but you might want to contact Donzi for a price before introducing Mr. Hatch latch to Mr. Sawsall.

Ken

[Dr. Dan]

:smash: Norm.... my latch mechanism was really messed up a few years back, I replaced the spring...but pryor to that...I had it stuck a few times...to encourage a bit of movement....maybe shoot some WD-40 down the latch...let it loosen things up... then do some gentle tapping with some wood or a rubber mallet...light tapping.

Cover the area around the latch with a towel or rag to protect the new paint.

Mine had been stuck at least 6 times....

Good Luck

Doc of Random Lubricants :doh:

[Kirbyvv]

Norm:
I bought a new latch from Jamie at Lakeside. With shipping, etc. I think it was about $185.
I got pretty frustrated, but finally got mine free. Turn it to the open position and try to feel which way the pin has shifted. Imagine an upside down T that is now an upside down L. By feel you may be able to tell which side is catching. I got mine free by just twisting the h#ll out of it and pulling like mad. Good luck.

[BigGrizzly]

Don't give up 30 min and luck. I have done a couple of times for others. they work their butts of then I come along and do exactally the same thing and it works-luck. Do Kirby's first then Buiz. the hole last.

[ZekesterbluH3]

The roll pin is slid out and jammed...happened to me, I took the vent off, bedside the hatch and with my arm covered in oil, squished it in the venthole with side cutters, and pulled the bent roll pin out....

[slapshot11]

Z3,
Wow! You must have some long arms.

[BigGrizzly]

Long and slippery. very innovated.:) You are a true mech.

[gcarter]

I know plenty of folks this has happened to.
After you get it out, replace the roll pin and stick a flat blade screw driver in the pin slot and open it up. These pins should have to be driven in with a hammer and punch. If you can just push it in, it's too loose and you'll have the problem many have experienced.
Everyone else should probably replace their pins and make sure they're tight. It can sure save some embarrasment and frustration.

[BigGrizzly]

Actually loctite before driving and super glue after works too.

[Dr. Dan]

:smash:OK I am gonna ask this before Carl C does or one of the Bravo Boyz....after ya replace the Pin....how many miles per hour can I expect to gain?:spongebob:

Cuz to be honest....I mean don't tell anyone for Petes Sake...but if you take a stock 22, remove the drive shower, add Hydraulic Steering, put a 4 Blade Bravo One Labbed of course, and then do the Hatch Pin replacement...oh and I almost forgot...gotta add a Shorty too... well than all this should be good for about an 18 mph increase according to the "Professional Race Boat Drivers" ?:tase:

I watched it last weekend... man it was impressive...really... Kids don't try this at home.:doh:


Doc of Careless & Reckless Commentary :lame2:

[BigGrizzly]

Dan, I have always loved your humor please don't stop. Its one of the few things that is better then your Donzi clothing.

[mrfixxall]

i used a ss sheer pin on mine,drilled and tepped and threaded a 3/16 set screw in mine.filed a flat spot in the center and locktight the set screw and havnt touched it in 9 yrs:)

[ZekesterbluH3]

Z3,
Wow! You must have some long arms.

umm I should have mentioned mine was on a Hornet 3, the vent is right beside the latch....I didn't need long arms, but a second elbow would have been quite usefull....

[slapshot11]

Z3,
Now it makes sense. Because the beam on a 22' is 7 feet with the vents tucked in just a few inches on each side so I was tring to image you with 3 1/2 foot arms. :shocking:


Doc,
The pin was already broken by the time I ran with the Bravo Boys in the Yellow Fever. That must be why I couldn't keep up with them. :smash:

I'm back on the boat on Thursday evening so I'll have a chance to try everyones suggestions. Hopefully Friday's post won't be looking for advice on fiberglass repairs for the hatch.

[gcarter]

I've had two now that had suffered from "hatch blowover"......funny how tha stern lifting eye makes kind of a neat rectangular hole in the hatch. Stresses the glas around the hinges too.
Is that what Doc was talking about?
I did a post on how I fixed the original Minx hatch.

[slapshot11]

SWEET SUCCESS!!! :propeller: You guys are great diagnosticians. :wink:
It worked! I twisted and pulled it around for another 40 minutes but couldn't get the lucky break of having it slide back into place. :crossfing: So, it was crowbar, wood board and towel time. :smash: After a couple of slow steady pressure attempts, it popped. No damage to the latch, paint or gel coat. Just one slightly bent roller pin. Replacement cost.........$0.19. Yes, nineteen cents.
Thank you everyone for your tips and advice.
I can't wait to see how many MPH's this adds to my ride.