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Tidbart
06-29-2008, 08:00 AM
Anyone got any tips as how to align my engine. I have been trying for 2 days, just can't get it right.

I have been trying to "read" the grease, but just can't get this thing to line up. I am at a loss. About to head out and try again.

I have the rear bolts loosened, the front suspended been up, down, left, right, no luck.

Any tips, please. I am sure a second pair of hands wouldn't hurt, but you got to do with what you got.


Bob

gcarter
06-29-2008, 08:38 AM
Bob, sometimes, it's hard to figure out what's going on.
I mentioned this to Carl a few weeks ago, but, a couple of things to keep in mind.....
1) the gimbal bearing is a spherical bearing and it has to be aligned also before you can get a good reading. Stick the tool in the bearing and move it around. It's kind of stiff so it'll take some effort. Make sure it's centered.

2) the tool also goes through the seal located in the gimbal housing and causes some resistance. It requires some desciphering as to what's spline drag and what's seal drag.

3) the tool is heavy and it's easy to obliterate spline markings in the grease just due to its weight and sag.

4) the coupler spline is located behind the rear mounts and requires opposite adjustment at the front mounts to get the required movement.

5) sometimes it's just a compromise and you have to balance the best spline tooth reading with the lowest amount of friction going in and out.

Hope this helps. It's kind of a black art at times.

MOP
06-29-2008, 09:41 AM
Bob if you did not disturb the mounts it should be fairly close! But let me give you the easy way if everything is new, I do this with the mounts fully assembled brackets and all but everything loose except for the block bolts. Lowered into position first put the two rear bolts in then let it rest on the front mounts. Now using as long a chain/cable as possible what ever re-attach to the front and center of the motor not being restricted by what is holding it up. This will allow the motor to pretty much center it's self to the transom shield. Now raise/lower it to where it looks good and try the tool, don't bother with grease yet, you will need to fiddle with it up & down until the tool goes in. Once the tool goes in then get out the grease, slip it in and pull it out and look at it carefully for which areas of spline have little to no grease. The grease pattern will tell you which way it needs to be moved, it may take a few tries until you understand what you are looking at as you move the engine. Take your time get a cold one and don't get frustrated, I have put a ton of them back in the hole over the past near 50 years. If you get frustrated PM me your number I can talk you through this some easy.

Phil

MOP
06-29-2008, 09:48 AM
Bob, sometimes, it's hard to figure out what's going on.
I mentioned this to Carl a few weeks ago, but, a couple of things to keep in mind.....
1) the gimbal bearing is a spherical bearing and it has to be aligned also before you can get a good reading. Stick the tool in the bearing and move it around. It's kind of stiff so it'll take some effort. Make sure it's centered.
2) the tool also goes through the seal located in the gimbal housing and causes some resistance. It requires some desciphering as to what's spline drag and what's seal drag.
3) the tool is heavy and it's easy to obliterate spline markings in the grease just due to its weight and sag.
4) the coupler spline is located behind the rear mounts and requires opposite adjustment at the front mounts to get the required movement.
5) sometimes it's just a compromise and you have to balance the best spline tooth reading with the lowest amount of friction going in and out.
Hope this helps. It's kind of a black art at times.

George I need to clarify point, there are Orings on the drives shaft but no seals or resistance within the gimble, The tool is smooth and slide in very easily when all is right. The engine can and should be spot on no "compromise" believe mo I know.

Phil

gcarter
06-29-2008, 10:01 AM
George I need to clarify point, there are Orings on the drives shaft but no seals or resistance within the gimble, The tool is smooth and slide in very easily when all is right. The engine can and should be spot on no "compromise" believe mo I know.

Phil
Phil, will you explain to me what #9 is?

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_Pictures3.asp?dnbr=880951002&ivar=images/COMMON/8273.png&inbr=11210&bnbr=60&bdesc=Gimbal+Housing

MOP
06-29-2008, 10:13 AM
Phil, will you explain to me what #9 is?
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_Pictures3.asp?dnbr=880951002&ivar=images/COMMON/8273.png&inbr=11210&bnbr=60&bdesc=Gimbal+Housing

Ok George the lip seal if you can feel that one rubbing against the 15-20 tool I will eat it, I thought sure you were speaking of the shaft Orings. The lip seal is just a grease stop which it only does a fair job.

gcarter
06-29-2008, 10:40 AM
Ok George the lip seal if you can feel that one rubbing against the 15-20 tool I will eat it
Do you want salt, pepper, and butter on that?
LOL
I can sure darn feel it and I find it frustrating at times.
Otherwise, Phil's technique for hanging the engine is excellent.

Tidbart
06-29-2008, 08:10 PM
Thanks for the help guys. After 2 days of struggling I finally got it.:shocking: The azz end was off just enough to screw me up. I had to relift and move it a fraction of an inch to finally get the tool to start in the splines.

Out of all the work on this boat over the last 2 months, this was the worst of it. My buddy came over an lent a hand and after about an an hour or two we got lined up. Thank God!

Back on track for the 4th of July goal. Tomorrow back at it, exhaust, hoses, cables, oil, then testing.:crossfing:

We will see how the rest goes. I am beat.

Bob

MOP
06-29-2008, 09:49 PM
Bob ain't life grand? You will so enjoy hitting the key and hearing it roar to life!! Enjoy the 4th!!

M.O.P.

Carl C
06-30-2008, 07:07 AM
Glad you got it done. I guess I got lucky on mine. I hear lemon juice goes good with steel. Mmmm.