1971 18' 2+3 transom

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Since I have to rebuild my transom, I wanted to get some thoughts on adding a couple gussets to help with the forces applied primarily to the bottom of the gimbal assembly. In the future, I am thinking about installing a 425HP+ small block Chevy stroker engine so I wanted to have plenty of strength. The 3rd grade picture that I quickly made showing my idea would have drainage channels. Has anyone else added these modifications or do you think it would be strong enough without them? This boat only has 1/4" of fiberglass at the transom so it needs some serious inner transom strength tied to the stringers, but I was thinking about adding some more beef to be on the safe side since I do not want any problems in the future and this is the time to do it. Please let me know your thoughts. Bill

[BlownCrewCab]

Are you cutting the wood out of the transom and replacing with new wood? is it rotton now? if you are replacing the wood, the trick is to cut the very bottom "V" off your new piece. that keeps it out of the bilge water. Also once you have cut the "V" Off Grind and taper the lower part to make glassing easier and more effective. That transition from the hull bottom/Keel/Transom is usually the thickest strongest part of the boat, I don't think gussets are neccesary, even with a killer smallblock.

[gcarter]

Are you cutting the wood out of the transom and replacing with new wood? is it rotton now? if you are replacing the wood, the trick is to cut the very bottom "V" off your new piece. that keeps it out of the bilge water. Olso once you have cut the "V" Off Grind and taper the lower part to make glassing easier and more effective. That transition from the hull bottom/Keel/Transom is usually the thickest strongest part of the boat, I don't think gussets are neccesary, even with a killer smallblock.
I agree. It's been done dozens of times before, evedn BBC's in 18's.