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Conquistador_del_mar
05-31-2008, 08:23 PM
Since buying back my old 18' last weekend, I have assessed what I want to do. Among many projects, I will be painting it with Imron since the gelcoat is no longer holding its color and there are quite a few places which need repair. I pulled the engine yesterday - notice the Magnaflow cam driven water pump and and it has an oversize oil pan. Tonight I will be using a trick I thought I would pass along. There are two bubbles in the gelcoat on the deck about the sizes of oblong baseballs. If I just air file the deck to straighten it out, those bubbles will have very little strength and they will probably continue to grow in size so they need to be filled. I drill a small hole in the center and a few very small holes at the outside perimeter of the bubbles only as far as it takes to get to the air gap. I then use a plastic squeeze bottle which I use to force the catalyzed polyester resin into the center hole until it comes out of all the smaller holes. I have some squares of wax paper ready with tape on them to place over the holes until it has hardened. Bingo - bubbles are filled and ready to be sanded for paint. I will be using the same color red and white that it came with originally - no more compounding! Bill

gcarter
05-31-2008, 09:23 PM
Good luck Bill.

Conquistador_del_mar
06-01-2008, 12:24 AM
Good luck Bill.

I look forward to lots of sweat! Actually, I almost bought a 27' Magnum sport a few weeks ago on ebay that was a bare naked hull - it needed everything. I held off thinking I really did not want to take that on. This will be a walk in the park comparatively. I already bought the drive shaft which was the only thing really broken on this boat. Thanks for the good wishes. Bill

jl1962
06-01-2008, 07:50 AM
Great thread! LOVE these old Donzis.

Our old 16 may still be around somewhere.....anyone ever find a light blue '67 Ski Sporter.....Let me know :yes:

BigGrizzly
06-01-2008, 07:54 AM
Bill thanks for the bubble tip. I have those on both my boats. They haven't grown yet, I measure them every year. Its due so thanks.

samjannarone
06-01-2008, 08:29 AM
Real nice looking 18, looks like a smart buy over the magnum. What kind of drive is that? Pretty cool w/ the nosecone, but do you think the shape of the skeg is original?
Good luck with the project, looks good already!!
Sam

Conquistador_del_mar
06-01-2008, 10:51 AM
Great thread! LOVE these old Donzis.

Our old 16 may still be around somewhere.....anyone ever find a light blue '67 Ski Sporter.....Let me know :yes:

If you hold off, a friend of mine might be selling his 1967 light blue 16'. He bought it brand new, but he does not seem to find the time to restore it. I wouldn't doubt that he decides to sell it soon. We have lunch together almost every Monday, so I will ask if he has made any decision. He usually sells his stuff cheap. Here is a picture of it when he was still using it. Bill

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=32807&d=1195150592

Conquistador_del_mar
06-01-2008, 11:00 AM
Bill thanks for the bubble tip. I have those on both my boats. They haven't grown yet, I measure them every year. Its due so thanks.

You're welcome. I first tried that trick on a slightly delaminated transom on an outboard fishing boat. I drilled on each side of the section that had delaminated and pumped resin in until it came out the other hole. It held from that day forward with no problem. If it had been a rotten transom, it would have been replaced. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
06-01-2008, 11:07 AM
Real nice looking 18, looks like a smart buy over the magnum. What kind of drive is that? Pretty cool w/ the nosecone, but do you think the shape of the skeg is original?
Good luck with the project, looks good already!!
Sam

Sam,
That is a Volvo Penta speedmaster drive (E drive) that I first installed in about 1976. It is the way they were made. They are about 1" less diameter than a conventional lower unit and usually add around 9MPH to the top speed of the boat. I had a good one for sale in the parts for sale section of this site, but I decided to hold on to it now. Bill

samjannarone
06-01-2008, 11:17 AM
Thanks for setting me straight on the drive. 9 mph is a ton. I have a trs on my x-18 and it looks huge compared to the volvo. Btw that cigarette you had was real nice.
Sam

Conquistador_del_mar
06-01-2008, 11:44 AM
Thanks for setting me straight on the drive. 9 mph is a ton. I have a trs on my x-18 and it looks huge compared to the volvo. Btw that cigarette you had was real nice.
Sam

Sam,
My old 20' Cigarette had a TRS drive. I installed a nose cone and a BBC engine that I built up to about 425 HP. It ran about 68MPH when I sold it. I once pulled up 6 guys barefooting. On the third or fourth pull, 4 of them made it up barefooting - I sure wish I had a picture of that! I sold it to a friend who still stores it at my boat storage facility. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
06-01-2008, 12:42 PM
Sam,
My old 20' Cigarette had a TRS drive. I installed a nose cone and a BBC engine that I built up to about 425 HP. It ran about 68MPH when I sold it. I once pulled up 6 guys barefooting. On the third or fourth pull, 4 of them made it up barefooting - I sure wish I had a picture of that! I sold it to a friend who still stores it at my boat storage facility. Bill

I should have added that I first bought the Cigarette in around 1984 at a used car lot in Killeen, TX. It was advertised as a 20' offshore boat with a custom paint job. It originally had a SBC. If memory serves me right, I only gave $7500 for it back then!! You rarely see 20' Cigarettes around here in north Texas. I used to run into Ross Perot at our boat ramp on Lake Texoma back in the mid 80s before he had to be so sequestered. He trailered the only other 20' Cigarette I have ever seen around here. He was always giving me compliments at the boat ramp on my 1953 18' Chris Craft Riviera that I had restored, so one day I offered to trade boats with him. He did not take me up on that - lol. Bill

jl1962
06-01-2008, 04:01 PM
If you hold off, a friend of mine might be selling his 1967 light blue 16'. He bought it brand new, but he does not seem to find the time to restore it. I wouldn't doubt that he decides to sell it soon. We have lunch together almost every Monday, so I will ask if he has made any decision. He usually sells his stuff cheap. Here is a picture of it when he was still using it. Bill

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=32807&d=1195150592

Close, but not the same one. Our old boat had a white deck/blue stripe and solid blue hull, no boot stripe.

My dad owned the boat from 1968 - 1971. It was on Lake George into the early '80's then supposedly went to FL.

It may be gone but at least Old Red is taking pretty good care of me these days!

:wink:

Bob
06-01-2008, 04:11 PM
If you hold off, a friend of mine might be selling his 1967 light blue 16'. He bought it brand new, but he does not seem to find the time to restore it. I wouldn't doubt that he decides to sell it soon. We have lunch together almost every Monday, so I will ask if he has made any decision. He usually sells his stuff cheap. Here is a picture of it when he was still using it. Bill
http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=32807&d=1195150592
If you friend ever decides to sell the 16, please contact me. This would make a great project to do with my son.
:yes:

Conquistador_del_mar
06-01-2008, 07:26 PM
If you friend ever decides to sell the 16, please contact me. This would make a great project to do with my son.
:yes:

Will do. Bill

BigGrizzly
06-02-2008, 09:07 AM
Bill, maybe this time you will keep her. It takes too long to fix other stuff. A friend had a 71 MACHI like mine he bough new, sold it and bough it back twice. The last time he bough it back he found it sitting in somebodies front yard all dirty and oxidized. He got mad and bough it back and said it won't go on sale ever again!!! He is now the forth owner of a car he bought brand new.

Conquistador_del_mar
06-02-2008, 11:24 AM
Bill, maybe this time you will keep her. It takes too long to fix other stuff. A friend had a 71 MACHI like mine he bough new, sold it and bough it back twice. The last time he bough it back he found it sitting in somebodies front yard all dirty and oxidized. He got mad and bough it back and said it won't go on sale ever again!!! He is now the forth owner of a car he bought brand new.

I know how your friend feels. I remember like it was yesterday when I first bought the Donzi. When the owner opened his garage door in 1973, I couldn't believe how perfect the boat was - not a flaw with glossy red and white gelcoat. I want to bring it back to at least looking like a new boat - like the one I first bought. I realize that having a professional do what I plan to do is very costly so the other owners never had it cosmetically repaired. Thankfully I have done many such restorations, and I look forward to doing this one. It is labor intensive work, but the expenses are not much - like $400 for the paint materials. I will probably find a good chroming shop to have some parts rechromed, install new rubrail, and get the instruments and controls looking and functioning like new. My inclination is to keep it for quite a few years.
Here is a 1986 Jaguar XJ6 that I restored last year. For the same reason, most owners of these cars can not justify how much it costs to repaint them so they look horrible with sun cracked lacquer paint. I'll bet I have about 120+ hours in this restoration including the mechanical, electrical, and interior work.
At some point, I would like to talk to you about props. Bill

VetteLT193
06-02-2008, 12:04 PM
Is Imron significantly cheaper than Awlgrip? I priced Interlux Perfection (basically awgrip) and it's going to be WAY more then $400.

Conquistador_del_mar
06-02-2008, 12:54 PM
Is Imron significantly cheaper than Awlgrip? I priced Interlux Perfection (basically awgrip) and it's going to be WAY more then $400.

I had some Awlgrip reps try to sell me on Awlgrip years ago when I was shooting a lot of paint at my shop. My memory is that they were very comparable in terms of price. They are both polyurethane enamel single stage paints so I stayed with Imron which I knew so well. I might be shocked at the newest prices, but I really only need 2 qts of 51078 red ( I already have 1 qt from previous work) and 2 qts of white which I will color tint along with the 192S activator. Right now I am not planning on painting the bottom of the hull - just from the chines up. Since reds are always much more expensive than the other pigments, I presume the paint supplies will be around $400, but it might run a little higher. How much paint did you get a quote on? That might be the large difference you describe. (I can tell you that I can paint a car with a gallon of PPG basecoat and the activated clearcoat for around $400.) I like to shoot a heavy mist coat followed by a heavy bulk coat followed by a heavily reduced finish coat on boats. Occasionally I like to add one more coat before the finish coat, but it depends on the color transfer. In this case I will be using the same color over the underlying color. Whites and dark pigmented paints like blacks and blues cover extremely well while yellows, oranges, and reds are less heavily pigmented and require more to cover the underlying color - especially if you are changing colors.
I might be a little optimistic on the price, but I don't think it will be much more than $400 in my case. What were you quoted and for what? Bill

dwiggl
06-02-2008, 01:21 PM
Bill, I always wondered if that idea would work. My thoughts on it were to try marine epoxy. Like the stuff they laminate onto wood boats. It gasses a little less, and has better adhesion than polyester. It may not flow as well though....
Congrats on bigger juevos than I - you actually tried it!

By the way, did you ever stop by King Bros Boat Storage on Lake Dallas? Randy is one of my favorite people in the boat world - outside of my wife.
Sounds like you guys would really enjoy each other. He usually has a quiver of floating/roadgoing toys. Funny as hell too.
Don Wiggs

Conquistador_del_mar
06-02-2008, 01:34 PM
Bill, I always wondered if that idea would work. My thoughts on it were to try marine epoxy. Like the stuff they laminate onto wood boats. It gasses a little less, and has better adhesion than polyester. It may not flow as well though....
Congrats on bigger juevos than I - you actually tried it!

By the way, did you ever stop by King Bros Boat Storage on Lake Dallas? Randy is one of my favorite people in the boat world - outside of my wife.
Sounds like you guys would really enjoy each other. He usually has a quiver of floating/roadgoing toys. Funny as hell too.
Don Wiggs

Don,
Many of the new boats are now painted on top of the gelcoat. The paints do not lose their gloss or color like gelcoat. Even though the manufacurers are adding UV inhibiters in gelcoat, they just don't hold up like automotive or aircraft type paints. I have seen boats that I painted 15 years after I shot them that looked like the day after I originally did them. No, I still have yet to get down there to see Randy. It does sound like we would have a lot in common. Here is one of my prized road toys. Bill

The Hedgehog
06-02-2008, 01:40 PM
Don,
Many of the new boats are now painted on top of the gelcoat. The paints do not lose their gloss or color like gelcoat. Even though the manufacurers are adding UV inhibiters in gelcoat, they just don't hold up like automotive or aircraft type paints. I have seen boats that I painted 15 years after I shot them that looked like the day after I originally did them. No, I still have yet to get down there to see Randy. It does sound like we would have a lot in common. Here is one of my prized road toys. Bill

Nice, I have spent a little time in one of those.

What engine package does it have?

VetteLT193
06-02-2008, 01:59 PM
I had some Awlgrip reps try to sell me on Awlgrip years ago when I was shooting a lot of paint at my shop. My memory is that they were very comparable in terms of price. They are both polyurethane enamel single stage paints so I stayed with Imron which I knew so well. I might be shocked at the newest prices, but I really only need 2 qts of 51078 red ( I already have 1 qt from previous work) and 2 qts of white which I will color tint along with the 192S activator. Right now I am not planning on painting the bottom of the hull - just from the chines up. Since reds are always much more expensive than the other pigments, I presume the paint supplies will be around $400, but it might run a little higher. How much paint did you get a quote on? That might be the large difference you describe. (I can tell you that I can paint a car with a gallon of PPG basecoat and the activated clearcoat for around $400.) I like to shoot a heavy mist coat followed by a heavy bulk coat followed by a heavily reduced finish coat on boats. Occasionally I like to add one more coat before the finish coat, but it depends on the color transfer. In this case I will be using the same color over the underlying color. Whites and dark pigmented paints like blacks and blues cover extremely well while yellows, oranges, and reds are less heavily pigmented and require more to cover the underlying color - especially if you are changing colors.
I might be a little optimistic on the price, but I don't think it will be much more than $400 in my case. What were you quoted and for what? Bill

Well, I might be reading the coverage wrong, but here is what I understand so far. I need to apply 3 coats. The stuff is roughly $50 per quart. I think it's going to take me 10 quarts or so to do just the paint but I could be way off on that? I'm painting the whole ****pit, deck, sides, plus stripes.

I also need other supplies including primer and other crap. I am in for a solid $1000 (if I'm lucky) based on these numbers.

Conquistador_del_mar
06-02-2008, 02:12 PM
Nice, I have spent a little time in one of those.

What engine package does it have?

Mine has a race built small block 351 bored and stroked to 427CID making 489HP on the dyno. The picture of the engine was taken before a few nicer looking parts were installed. It has a 5 speed Tremec TKO transmission with a Currie geared 9" Ford 3.7 rear end. It is a real blast to drive! It is pretty well loaded with all new parts - no donor parts. 0 to 60 in about 3 seconds. It is a Classic Roadster kit. Bill

BigGrizzly
06-03-2008, 08:34 AM
Bill we all have made mistakes. I had an original 289, My dad gave me a choice, car or college, I may have picked the wrong one(school). The worst part was I saw the car about 6 months later in a big ball, driver wasn't hurt bad. That is one of my three favorite cars, along with a Panthera and a GT40 ( Ford GT)

The Hedgehog
06-03-2008, 09:21 AM
Bill we all have made mistakes. I had an original 289, My dad gave me a choice, car or college, I may have picked the wrong one(school). The worst part was I saw the car about 6 months later in a big ball, driver wasn't hurt bad. That is one of my three favorite cars, along with a Panthera and a GT40 ( Ford GT)

That is one rare case where a car may have been worth more than college!:eek!:

Conquistador_del_mar
06-03-2008, 10:48 AM
Well, I might be reading the coverage wrong, but here is what I understand so far. I need to apply 3 coats. The stuff is roughly $50 per quart. I think it's going to take me 10 quarts or so to do just the paint but I could be way off on that? I'm painting the whole ****pit, deck, sides, plus stripes.

I also need other supplies including primer and other crap. I am in for a solid $1000 (if I'm lucky) based on these numbers.

It seems to me that you are buying too much paint - especially if you are painting an 18'. Since you are going to paint the hull or deck first, you might get a little less and see where you are after painting the first section. Be sure to use a good fine line tape on the deck stripe lines and pull the tape at least by the day after painting or it might fracture if it gets too hard. If you have any questions about painting, feel free to call me. Bill (903)786-6281

Conquistador_del_mar
06-03-2008, 10:57 AM
Bill we all have made mistakes. I had an original 289, My dad gave me a choice, car or college, I may have picked the wrong one(school). The worst part was I saw the car about 6 months later in a big ball, driver wasn't hurt bad. That is one of my three favorite cars, along with a Panthera and a GT40 ( Ford GT)

We have identical tastes in cars. I plan to get a DeTomaso Pantera at some point and the Ford GT and Ferrari Dino will probably remain dream cars for me. Too bad about the AC Shelby Cobra 289. For what it is worth, I have a couple friends who also had and sold them back in the day. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
06-04-2008, 11:46 AM
Is Imron significantly cheaper than Awlgrip? I priced Interlux Perfection (basically awgrip) and it's going to be WAY more then $400.

Yesterday, I bought 2 quarts of Imron red and a pint of activator for my 18' for $200. Since I already have a quart of the same red (51078) and a pint of activator (192S), I should have more than enough red to do my sides, transom, and deck stripe on my 18'. Keeping in mind that red is considerably higher than white, I now feel like it will cost about $500 for the Imron red and white to do the sides, transom, and deck - not the bottom. This will be a total of 6 quarts of paint - more than I think is necessary, but it is always good to keep some touchup materials from the same batch. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
06-04-2008, 11:52 AM
Bill, I always wondered if that idea would work. My thoughts on it were to try marine epoxy. Like the stuff they laminate onto wood boats. It gasses a little less, and has better adhesion than polyester. It may not flow as well though....
Congrats on bigger juevos than I - you actually tried it!

By the way, did you ever stop by King Bros Boat Storage on Lake Dallas? Randy is one of my favorite people in the boat world - outside of my wife.
Sounds like you guys would really enjoy each other. He usually has a quiver of floating/roadgoing toys. Funny as hell too.
Don Wiggs

Don,
After reading your post again, I realize you were talking about filling the bubbles. Yes, I already filled them a few days ago, and it works like a champ. Sorry about being so dense. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
06-04-2008, 12:08 PM
I got around to pulling quite a few pieces off the deck and transom, filling the bubbles on the deck, buying some Imron, and looking around for some parts. I also restored the shifter knob with 5 coats of automotive clearcoat after turning it on a drill while sanding it. I leave it in the drill to slowly spin it as I shoot the clear. It looks and feels better than my picture. I will be buying some new Bennett trim tabs since the old Boatlevelers that I installed about 30+ years ago are leaking at the actuators and I really don't like the look of the hoses going up the transom so I will be filling those holes before painting. I might get a set of 3" SS bell exhaust tips with internal flappers to keep the basic look. I am still looking around for a replacement steering system even though the last owner installed a no feedback system. I want to go back to the Big T with the chromed bezel, I think. Bill

VetteLT193
06-04-2008, 01:12 PM
Yesterday, I bought 2 quarts of Imron red and a pint of activator for my 18' for $200. Since I already have a quart of the same red (51078) and a pint of activator (192S), I should have more than enough red to do my sides, transom, and deck stripe on my 18'. Keeping in mind that red is considerably higher than white, I now feel like it will cost about $500 for the Imron red and white to do the sides, transom, and deck - not the bottom. This will be a total of 6 quarts of paint - more than I think is necessary, but it is always good to keep some touchup materials from the same batch. Bill

That's pretty good. I'm going to start with 2 quarts and see how it goes then order the rest.

thanks for the help!

Conquistador_del_mar
06-04-2008, 06:24 PM
"If" you locate a chrome bezel, grab it! Then, go with the Uflex system over the teleflex.. Stronger, better feel, comparably priced... I've shipped several out to folks (the no feedback style mostly) with zero complaints, lots of praise.. I plan to install one on my X since I have a half hydraulic system now to eliminate the play in the big-t...

Amazingly, the man I bought the Donzi from still had the old steering system and original chromed bezel. I will see about having it rechromed along with quite a few other parts. There was just a chromed bezel on ebay advertised as a SS bezel, but it was not perfect so I passed. Does the Uflex system work with the original Teleflex bezels? Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
06-04-2008, 07:16 PM
Johnny Revlon doesn't know the difference between SST and chrome.. It was probably in better shape than the pics would indicate, I debated on it myself but I'm afraid of what he would buy if he had $$$ in his hands so I passed..

Yes, it fits :)

Thanks.
That bezel actually looked pretty good except for where the old label was on the top showing the oval shape of the label. For the $61 and $15 shipping, I think I can have mine rechromed and be next to perfect. I wish there was a good chroming shop here near Denison, TX, but so far I have yet to find one. Bill

gcarter
06-04-2008, 09:35 PM
Chrome is pretty expensive these days. I think it has to do w/environmental hazards of the chrome itself.

Conquistador_del_mar
06-05-2008, 12:07 AM
Check with Farmer Tex, he most likely can send yo to a good shop.. If you want to look into the steering, let me know I'll check the price..

Thanks again. I will be back in town this next week and I will really start the ball rolling. Bill


Chrome is pretty expensive these days. I think it has to do w/environmental hazards of the chrome itself.

You are right. I actually found a place in California to triple chrome some wheels that was about 1/3 the price of having it done locally. Even with the shipping both ways, I saved a ton of money. LA Wheels is the place I am talking about, and they did a fantastic job. Maybe they farm it out across the border? I would feel better about finding a local place for the small parts I am going to have chromed however. Here is one of the Jaguar XJS wheels they did for me - they were a wreck without chrome before I sent them out. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
06-13-2008, 11:17 AM
I was out of town for almost a week visiting my family, but I just got back to work on the restoration. I have pulled every fitting from the deck and transom with the exception of the bow eye now. I will be filling the holes in the transom where the old Boat Leveler trim tabs were mounted by me back in about 1974, and I ordered a set of Bennett ST9s yesterday. The deck and engine hatch will need a fair amount of prep work before I can paint with Imron, but the sides and transom will be relatively easy. While under the bow deck, I discovered the vent hose for the fuel tank was cracked near the fitting on the tank - not surprised since the vent hoses appear to be the original ones. There is an inline fitting between the outside vent and the tank fitting - does anyone know the purpose of it? I had replaced the fuel fill hose at some point and it appears to be fine and flexible. The original fuel tank seems to be a very thick well made tank - galvanized steel is what it appears to be and foamed in place. I have had a fear that I might have to replace it, but I think mine is fine - http://www.donzi.net/ubb/wink.gif. I also studied the bottom of the hull and discovered two gelcoat stress cracked areas on each side of the bottom of the hull in identical locations apparently caused by where the floor corners meet the sides of the hull bottom. The transom and all internal components seem solid a a rock - :nilly:. I will try to take some pictures as I progress. I am very pleased with the general condition of the structural integrity of the hull after 37 years - I know what I put it through back in the 70s when I was known as Wildman - lol. Bill

gcarter
06-13-2008, 12:00 PM
Bill, FWIW, the tops of the tanks always look great.......

Conquistador_del_mar
06-13-2008, 12:14 PM
I took this picture of the ****pit a couple weeks ago. Does anyone know where I might find the same replacement side stanchions for the grabrail where I marked or I guess I might have to replace them with the two screw holed SS type I have been finding - they are 2" tall to the top. I replaced the ends with SS pieces the last time I owned it so they are in great shape. I thought I would mention that someone installed a stereo system at some point with the speakers mounted where I marked with an arrow. I removed the speakers and will be installing white 4" deck plates in the holes which gave me access to the nuts of the center stanchions - handy! I also marked where there are some gelcoat fractures which I think I will be repairing with matching gelcoat instead of painting inside the entire ****pit. I think I will break my paint line at the top edge where it rolls over, but I might end up going all the way later. You might also notice a modification I did years ago on the floor storage bin lid. I cut it where you can see the hinges so that I could easily open it without having to take off the entire lid for access. I will try to show a better picture of the SS speedometer and depth sounder panel which I designed and had built back in the 70s. You can see it in the ski well up front. It mounted right under the main cluster and held up fine through many years of rough riding. At that time, I did not want to cut more holes in the dash, but it did limit the access to the ski well up front a bit since it dropped down about 4" from the dash. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
06-13-2008, 12:28 PM
Bill, FWIW, the tops of the tanks always look great.......

Keeping my fingers crossed, so far I have no indication of a leak in the original tank. I was just surprised at how thick the material is that the tank seems to have been made from. I do know that I will be making a new fuel pickup since I remember helping a friend years ago who owned it by cutting off a small amount of the end after the filter at the end of the pickup was blocking. It probably reduced the allowable fuel to be pulled by a gallon or so. Although my memory is vague on it, I will be checking it out. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
06-14-2008, 07:35 PM
Here are a few shots I took this afternoon. The deck has been cleared of all the hardware in preparation for the Imron paint after correcting the flaws. I filled the holes in the transom where the old Boat Leveler trim tabs were mounted, a couple holes where the trim pump was mounted by the starboard lifting eye, the engine hatch hinge holes, and one of the grab rail center stanchion holes on the port side. I beveled the outside of the holes with a countersink, cleaned out the holes with a slightly larger bit, taped the backside of the holes, cleaned with acetone, and putty knifed the catalyzed polyester resin gel into the holes. I make the polyester gel by mixing Epiglass glue powder in the resin which turns it into a gel form that is easy to use. I will then apply a sheet of fiberglass cloth to the inside of the holes that I have filled. The other pictures show one of the bubbles in the bow deck (it was already filled with resin) before I worked it down with an air file and after it had been worked off. I will be air filing the entire deck and any other relatively flat surfaces before going on to the finishing sand work to get out all the abberations in the surface. Just a quick update. Bill

bobwpe
06-17-2008, 06:11 PM
Hi Conquistador,

Looks like your doing a great job. I am doing a resto. on a '72 and my boat had stress cracks in the gel similar to what you describe. In my case they were at the forward end of the stringers which terminate abruptly, causing a hard spot. We glassed in an extension which is about 8" long and 1" vertical at the forward edge as opposed to 3" on the original stringer.

I'm not sure how well it will work but I think it is a definite improvement.

Conquistador_del_mar
06-17-2008, 08:34 PM
Hi Conquistador,

Looks like your doing a great job. I am doing a resto. on a '72 and my boat had stress cracks in the gel similar to what you describe. In my case they were at the forward end of the stringers which terminate abruptly, causing a hard spot. We glassed in an extension which is about 8" long and 1" vertical at the forward edge as opposed to 3" on the original stringer.

I'm not sure how well it will work but I think it is a definite improvement.

Bob,
The gelcoat fractures on my boat are just inside the chines instead of where the stringers end. It looks like you are going all the way with your restoration including the fuel tank - yikes! If I ever have to replace or repair the fuel tank, I will check out how and where you did your modifications.
I have not seen anyone report repairing their fuel tank. On my Eliminator, the right tank was leaking a little so I cut up the floor, removed the aluminum tank, double fiberglassed it after cleaning and sanding it, and foamed it back in place. That was about 12 years ago with no problems since doing it. It was much cheaper and easier than having another one made, plus it is very strong now. Woe is the day that the left one decides to start leaking! I would have done it at the same time if I were not able to remove just the floor over the right one. Still a royal pain and a fair amount of time involved.
I was set back in my Donzi project after my 15+ year old Black Max air compressor decided to barely make air for my air file sander - probably the valve plate. I bought a used Ingersoll Rand 5HP 220V 80 gallon tank unit from a guy on Craigslist for very little after he said it was slowing down when running. He had bought a new $230 motor for it, but it was still doing the same. After messing with it last night, I discoved that his old belt was slick and not tight enough so it would slip when developing higher pressure. $7.99 later, I am back in business with a spare 5HP motor! I have die grinded out and filled the stress cracks at the ****pit deck corners with the polyester gel that I make and will be air filing and then sanding the deck and hull for paint starting tomorrow. I am guessing that I am still a month away from splash time - maybe longer. Bill

dwiggl
06-18-2008, 02:40 PM
Bill,
Thanks for the clarification & info about filling bubbles.

As far as the cracks you are dealing with, did you look at the relationship of the cracks to the bunks on the trailer? On my last project, I had a situation where the bunks were supporting the boat "right next to" the stringers, but not under them. So I would load the boat/trailer down with all the crap for the weekend trip on the river, and the addl weight stressed the bottom while on the road! (Surely it wouldn't have anything to do with jumping cruiser waves....) Now junk goes in the truck or doesn't go.

Also, and it may be too late for this, but consider putting a heat lamp on the Gel or F-glass repairs before initial sanding but AFTER the polyester kicks. This drives through some addl cure, and gives the plastic an expansion-contraction cycle. That way you won't see repair shrinkage after your beautiful paint job is applied and was super heated in the Texas sun. Make sure it is cool befor sanding. Learned this the hard way when doing a garage repair in the winter.
Have you considered painting the deck while hanging it upside down? I have been told that this cuts down on dirt in your coating. Anyone else tried this?
Don

Conquistador_del_mar
06-18-2008, 06:08 PM
Bill,
Thanks for the clarification & info about filling bubbles.

As far as the cracks you are dealing with, did you look at the relationship of the cracks to the bunks on the trailer? On my last project, I had a situation where the bunks were supporting the boat "right next to" the stringers, but not under them. So I would load the boat/trailer down with all the crap for the weekend trip on the river, and the addl weight stressed the bottom while on the road! (Surely it wouldn't have anything to do with jumping cruiser waves....) Now junk goes in the truck or doesn't go.

Also, and it may be too late for this, but consider putting a heat lamp on the Gel or F-glass repairs before initial sanding but AFTER the polyester kicks. This drives through some addl cure, and gives the plastic an expansion-contraction cycle. That way you won't see repair shrinkage after your beautiful paint job is applied and was super heated in the Texas sun. Make sure it is cool befor sanding. Learned this the hard way when doing a garage repair in the winter.
Have you considered painting the deck while hanging it upside down? I have been told that this cuts down on dirt in your coating. Anyone else tried this?
Don

Don,
My gelcoat fractures on the bottom are right next to the chine. I think it was due to the corners of the ****pit hitting the hull, but I will have to look again to be sure. I do know they have been there for years. My trailer has one of the best bunk setups I have ever seen with two wide bunks following the hull contour on each side so that is not a problem.
Yes, I would follow that fiberglass tip if it were the cold of winter, but my shop is the same temp as what we have outside - warm to hot.
Painting my hull upside down is not really something I want to attempt although it would reduce the trash. I try to paint after a rain so most debris is settled down. Even then I usually have to work out the dust particles since I don't have a paintbooth. Compounding the paint always gives it a softer look anyway.
I got a ton of air filing done this afternoon with my new compressor not having to slow me down. I can't wait to get it painted!! My new Bennett ST9 trim tabs just arrived so I will be anxious to get the project up to full steam. Bill

gcarter
06-19-2008, 02:41 PM
Bill, I know you know a lot more about this stuff than I do, but I wanted to share something I discovered recently.
When I removed the paint form the hull of the TR, I used a D-A w/220 paper. Of course it left a certain amount of waviness in the surface. I went over the entire surface of the deck and most of the hull w/my airfile thinking I'd taken care of the problem.
A few weeks ago, I purchased a few sanding blocks, the largest is 20" long and slightly flexible. It, of course, used the same continuous roll of sticky back paper as the airfile. I went over the deck w/it and couldn't hardly believe what I'd left behind.
Now it's flat.
Went over the rest of the deck and found all sorts of surface variations!!:eek!:
It seems to cut a lot faster than the airfile, my production rate has gone up appreciably.
And it's a pretty good workout. Lots of upper body exercise!

Conquistador_del_mar
06-20-2008, 12:34 AM
Bill, I know you know a lot more about this stuff than I do, but I wanted to share something I discovered recently.
When I removed the paint form the hull of the TR, I used a D-A w/220 paper. Of course it left a certain amount of waviness in the surface. I went over the entire surface of the deck and most of the hull w/my airfile thinking I'd taken care of the problem.
A few weeks ago, I purchased a few sanding blocks, the largest is 20" long and slightly flexible. It, of course, used the same continuous roll of sticky back paper as the airfile. I went over the deck w/it and couldn't hardly believe what I'd left behind.
Now it's flat.
Went over the rest of the deck and found all sorts of surface variations!!:eek!:
It seems to cut a lot faster than the airfile, my production rate has gone up appreciably.
And it's a pretty good workout. Lots of upper body exercise!

George,
I remember back when I only had a manual 3M 16" or so sanding block to tackle straightening sides and decks. When I could afford it, I bought a Hutchins air file sander that I am still using. It would be tough going back to a manual sander, but I do agree that you can get great results using sanding blocks. Your first picture really shows what the older boat decks will look like - dimpling all over the surface. I was going to point out to anyone following this thread that if you only use a finishing sander, there will be lots of imperfections left even though the surface is entirely sanded. Those low spots in your picture are still glossy from the surface still being too high. Even though a finishing sander would get those low spots sanded, there would still be the imperfections that the air file will straighten out - I wanted to point this out even though you and I know it, George. I think my Hutchins is 18". I just checked online and did not see my older one for sale, but here is one that will do the same work - http://www.tylertool.com/huma3.html They are actually called straight line sanders if anyone needs to get one (they are one of the best time and effort saving tools I ever bought with the exception of a good buffer/grinder, etc.). I think by tomorrow the deck on my 18' will almost be ready for paint. I will finish filling and sanding with the "straight line sander" working it down to 180 grit, then epoxy primer a few spots, and work it down to 320 grit with a finishing sander. My final prep will be hand sanding longitudinally with 500 grit and using PPG 330 solvent for the final prep before paint to help remove any wax or other contaminants. Their 440 is a little too powerful a solvent since I have seen it lift primer before. Thanks again for the tip. Bill

gcarter
06-20-2008, 08:29 AM
Bill, is that Hutchins that much better than my IR sander?
I'm pretty disappointed with it.

Conquistador_del_mar
06-20-2008, 11:05 AM
Bill, is that Hutchins that much better than my IR sander?
I'm pretty disappointed with it.

George,
I bought my Hutchins sander from a tool dealer who could get me anything - this was before the internet availability. I do remember him recommending the Hutchins over the others, but I can't remember exactly why. I never tried an Ingersoll Rand so I don't know the differences. My Hutchins makes small circular motions in the action, has a dial on the top to set the max speed, and you can regulate the speed by pulling the trigger less than all the way - handy for tight work where you don't need much sanding. If I had to put a % difference between the Hutchins and hand sanding with a block, I would say you can get somewhere between 5-10 times as much material removed with the Hutchins in the same time period. That is why I was completely baffled when you said you were making better headway with the blocks. I have put a few hundred hours of use on my Hutchins with no problems, but I am good about squirting air tool oil in the quick connect fitting periodically since I don't have an oiler air system. In roughly a total of 10 hours, I will have filled the deck holes that I don't need, low spots, gelcoat fracture stress cracks, and dings and air filed it to the point of going on to the next steps of preparation. Keep in mind that I do my initial air filing with 80 grit stick on paper until I just get down to a level surface when I then use 180 for a quick run down with the air file to help get out the larger scratch marks and then on to the finishing sander work. I was surprised that I only went through the gelcoat layer on the two bubbles on the deck and a couple fitting hole lips. I use Evercoat polyester glazing putty for the smaller dings and final fill work on top of the extremely low indented places where a fitting dented the deck surface (both center grabrail stancions), but only after filling those places with the polyester resin paste that I make with Epiglass. I will try to post some pictures tonight after I have done a little more work. I know I went into a lot more than trying to answer your question, George. Bill

gcarter
06-20-2008, 11:19 AM
I've had my IR airfile about three years. Of course I don't make my livelyhood with it, but I would like it to have a longer stroke. I'm not sure, but I think that would keep the paper from being filled so fast. When I'm using the IR airfile, I'm having to pick it up every 10-15 seconds and blow it off. It ends up being a lot of work because of the weight. Also I have to lube mine about once per hour or it seizes up, or slows down dramatically. It could be in the basic design.
When I started using the 20" block, I noticed it was quite a bit harder, where the airfile is more cushioned. With the harder block, it seems to cut so much faster because it's being forced into the irregularities of the surface.
But what do I know, I'm a complete novice with a small amount of experience.

Conquistador_del_mar
06-20-2008, 12:04 PM
I've had my IR airfile about three years. Of course I don't make my livelyhood with it, but I would like it to have a longer stroke. I'm not sure, but I think that would keep the paper from being filled so fast. When I'm using the IR airfile, I'm having to pick it up every 10-15 seconds and blow it off. It ends up being a lot of work because of the weight. Also I have to lube mine about once per hour or it seizes up, or slows down dramatically. It could be in the basic design.
When I started using the 20" block, I noticed it was quite a bit harder, where the airfile is more cushioned. With the harder block, it seems to cut so much faster because it's being forced into the irregularities of the surface.
But what do I know, I'm a complete novice with a small amount of experience.

I never have to blow off the sandpaper on my Hutchins. It throws off the sanded material to the sides, but I also keep it moving both forward and backwards and to the sides to not allow it to dig any ruts. After about 3 or 4 minutes of heavy sanding, I use my blower (a 3' long piece of 3/8" copper tubing soldered to a quick connect fitting and with an arch at the end) to blow off all the debris. It literally blows a cloud of the piled up sanded gelcoat out the back door of my shop with the help of a large fan that I run. It might be that the IR does not have the same action as the Hutchins? You won't be a novice for long - lol. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
06-21-2008, 12:13 AM
Today, I planned on getting a lot of work done, but my business (boat stall rentals) took quite a bit of my time.
One of the things I wanted to do is get the transom assembly off the boat so that painting would be easier. As soon as I lifted the assembly off, I realized I had a problem when I saw moisture at one of the bolt holes. Ouch!! It needs a new transom. Oh well, I have done tons of them and this one is relatively easy with only a partial transom. Ironically, the cause of the invasive moisture and resulting rot (only in the very bottom section) was probably caused by my negligence way back in the mid 70s when I installed the speedometer pitot. I was knowledgeable enough to seal it well on the outside of the transom, but I failed to seal the inside hole where the pitot tubing comes in through the transom as you can see in one of the pictures. Whenever there was enough water in the bilge it would have penetrated into the wood transom. You can also see the telltale gelcoat fractures on the bottom hole area where the assembly pressed against the weakened transom. Someone on this forum recently was asking about telltale ways to know if the transom is rotted - this is one of the most common symptoms. Even 3 of the steel carriage bolts on the assembly are now rusted as you might be able to see.
On a side note, I was surprised to see that the white water line on this boat was added after it was pulled from the mold. It is not in the gelcoat, but on top of the red gelcoat as you can see in the pictures I included where I sanded right through the white on the transom.
I am also including a picture of the old Hutchins straight line sander that has served me so well over the years (it is 16" in length) behind one of the 2 sanded bubbles in the deck, the chrome, and a picture of the trailer that a friend of mine rebunked in about 1986 after he bought it from me. It is the original Rocket trailer with an extra axle added by the first owner, and the rebunking done much later. It is easy to load with the four bunks since it centers itself when reaching the trailer.
Just a quick update with a little bad news for me - lol. Bill

gcarter
06-21-2008, 05:42 AM
It's a shame that pitot line was installed so low. I know just a few years later they were drilled well above the water line.

Conquistador_del_mar
06-21-2008, 08:22 PM
It's a shame that pitot line was installed so low. I know just a few years later they were drilled well above the water line.

George,
After cutting out the transom today, I discovered that it might have also gotten wet from the bilge drain plug brass sleeve which seemed to have corroded. I guess it might have been caused by both the pitot hole and the brass fitting. I am probably going to install a GPS speedometer so I won't ever have that problem again anyway. You are right though - in later years most speedometer pitot tubes were drilled higher. I was surprised to see that the previous owner did not block off the pitot tube so it would have been flowing water into the bilge where it laid up front since he had disconnected and discarded the speedometer. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
07-11-2008, 02:32 AM
I dont seem to be getting much done on my 1971, but I have finally finished replacing the transom and prepping the back of the transom for paint. I built a fairly beefy transom with lots of fiberglass and also added a layer of fiberglass to the sides of the partial transom to help with the trim tab loads. I also fiberglassed an outdrive trim pump piece to the starboard side and a trim tab pump piece to the port side, filled all the unnecessary holes, and gelcoated the entire bilge area. I bought all new Stewart Warner gauges and a GPS speedometer, new Bennett ST-9 trim tabs, switches, gauge bezels, a couple switch panels, all the electrical connection panels, the deck hardware, a new steering wheel and hub, new trumpet exhaust tips, etc. I will be getting a few pieces rechromed and the upholstery redone while I finish the paint work and installation of the new parts. In one of the pictures you will see the template for a dash panel that I plan to have made of 1/16" stainless steel that will be brushed for less glare. Has anyone tried making something like this? I think it will look good with the old brushed stainless panel with the black trim mounted in the center after I restore it to like new, but I was hoping someone has already done this so I can really see how it will look. Bill

gcarter
07-11-2008, 07:09 AM
Bill, did this boat always have the bottom pickup in it?
When I did some work on VonKamps '66 (I think) 18, it was using the drive pickup and I put in a Stainless Marine transom pickup.
Just wondering because I've never seen a bottom pickup in one of these older boats before but I do know there was a lot of differences between boats in those days.

gcarter
07-11-2008, 07:15 AM
I'm a fan of bigger panels. The way I see it, these are not museum pieces and are used frequently in todays world.
Lots of (and better) stuff available today than in the 60's.
Might as well utilize it.
Kind oof like having a classic car from the '30's.....if you were going to use it everyday, you'd probably want to remove the cable operated brakes and replace them w/hydraulic discs.

olredalert
07-11-2008, 08:46 AM
------Bill,,,To my knowledge all DONZIs I have ever seen from back in the day up thru the 90s had the boot-stripe painted on after the boat was pulled from the mold. It wasnt paint however but gelcoat, I believe..........Bill S

BigGrizzly
07-11-2008, 09:45 AM
KY-donzi did one, Did a SS dash panel. it looks really good.

Conquistador_del_mar
07-11-2008, 10:44 AM
Bill, did this boat always have the bottom pickup in it?
When I did some work on VonKamps '66 (I think) 18, it was using the drive pickup and I put in a Stainless Marine transom pickup.
Just wondering because I've never seen a bottom pickup in one of these older boats before but I do know there was a lot of differences between boats in those days.

George,
I had to install the brass clamshell water pickup in about 1975 when I went to the speedmaster drive which has no pickup. I debated filling the hole and installing a transom pickup, but this has always worked well and is solid so I thought I would leave it alone. Also the transom is going to be fairly busy with trim tabs. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
07-11-2008, 10:54 AM
I'm a fan of bigger panels. The way I see it, these are not museum pieces and are used frequently in todays world.
Lots of (and better) stuff available today than in the 60's.
Might as well utilize it.
Kind oof like having a classic car from the '30's.....if you were going to use it everyday, you'd probably want to remove the cable operated brakes and replace them w/hydraulic discs.

I would definitely keep to the original look if I were restoring something like a collectable car. In this case, I thought I would keep some of the original look with the original center dash panel with the Stewart Warner gauges and the chromed Teleflex steering bezel, but I will be adding some more gauges to the side and using some newer hardware and switch panels so I thought this SS panel might be a nice addition as a background for the look. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
07-11-2008, 11:00 AM
------Bill,,,To my knowledge all DONZIs I have ever seen from back in the day up thru the 90s had the boot-stripe painted on after the boat was pulled from the mold. It wasnt paint however but gelcoat, I believe..........Bill S

Bill,
Thanks for the conversation we had a few weeks ago. I figured it might be gelcoat by the way it sanded off, but I wasn't sure. I really like the way Donzi brought the boot stripe to a point at the bow instead of the constant width stripe that I see on many boats. I think I will also add it at the end instead of trying to mask it off and get it at the same height as the red on the sides. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
07-11-2008, 11:12 AM
KY-donzi did one, Did a SS dash panel. it looks really good.

I hope KY Donzi can post a picture of his dash panel. A picture would help me decide if I really like the look. By the way, I called Teleflex and talked to a representative about the Teleflex NFB 4.2 steering system that was in my boat to see if it was as strong a system as the original Big-T. Jim told me that it would be just as strong with the same size cable and that it would help with driveability. I figured a way to install the original two part chromed helm bezel over it even though he was quick to point out that Teleflex would not recommend using anything but the plastic bezel that the NFB came with. I almost contacted you about the Uflex system, but it looks like I have a plan for now. Now propping the boat will be a whole different matter. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
07-15-2008, 08:13 PM
It sure makes you feel good when you are finally able to see some fresh Imron on a project. I was in the bilge and under the dash for too long - lol. Over the weekend, I got the transom shot with both the red and white after filling all the unwanted holes and getting it straight. It turned out nearly perfect although my picture does not do it justice. I plan to paint the sides and add the white boot stripe before shooting the deck and engine cover. In one of the pictures I tried to show the mottled original gelcoat on the sides. It took me about 3 hours of solid sanding to get the back half of the port side straight and sanded down to 180 grit - hard work holding a straight line sander sideways with pressure! You might notice that I went through the red gelcoat at one point near the chine - it was fairly thin there. I really look forward to getting the sides done which will probably be my next post. Bill

The Hedgehog
07-15-2008, 08:32 PM
I hope KY Donzi can post a picture of his dash panel. A picture would help me decide if I really like the look. By the way, I called Teleflex and talked to a representative about the Teleflex NFB 4.2 steering system that was in my boat to see if it was as strong a system as the original Big-T. Jim told me that it would be just as strong with the same size cable and that it would help with driveability. I figured a way to install the original two part chromed helm bezel over it even though he was quick to point out that Teleflex would not recommend using anything but the plastic bezel that the NFB came with. I almost contacted you about the Uflex system, but it looks like I have a plan for now. Now propping the boat will be a whole different matter. Bill

Do a search. His panel is really cool.

BigGrizzly
07-16-2008, 09:38 AM
That is really good I just don't have that drive or talent. Reed's dash is really neat.

Conquistador_del_mar
07-16-2008, 11:17 AM
Do a search. His panel is really cool.

It took me a while, but I found KY-Donzi's dash. It is outrageously beautiful, but I am going after a different look. Do you remember how he got the pattern of swirls on the surface? I remember seeing some dashes in cars with that look. By the way, I took my pattern to my fabricator yesterday, and he will be making my long 1/16" thick dash panel out of lightly brushed SS using a plasma cutter for "less than $100" so I am pleased. I will be taking it back to him after I finalize my layout to cut the holes. My restoration project will be taking me much longer than I originally planned, but I am also going much further with it.


That is really good I just don't have that drive or talent. Reed's dash is really neat.

If you have a good friend in the paint and body business, they could walk you through the steps. It is not that complicated to learn, but it is fairly labor intensive and a little artsy. You get a lot of self gratification from doing all the work yourself, too. I have taught quite a few guys to paint over the years, and I would gladly help you if you lived near me. If you learn how to do paint work, you can save more than the cost of all the required equipment and materials on the first job alone versus paying someone else to do it. Obviously, there is no better teacher than experience, but I would bet you could do a great job on your first attempt with a little guidance. Bill

BigGrizzly
07-16-2008, 11:50 AM
Thanks I have painted my Corsican and your right about the satisfaction. Problem is my job was nice but you guys are pros at this. Funny I have the stuff ,compressor spray guns etc. When I look at your past restos I get embarrassed. I can build fast motorcycles car and boat engines but when it comes to paint I can screw up a crow bar:hangum:. I just got lucky once. Btw Ky-Donzi designed and did all the work himself. I have talked to him and he knows what he is doing, he seems to be a really nice guy.

Morgan's Cloud
07-16-2008, 01:26 PM
It
If you have a good friend in the paint and body business, they could walk you through the steps. It is not that complicated to learn, but it is fairly labor intensive and a little artsy. You get a lot of self gratification from doing all the work yourself, ---------------- there is no better teacher than experience, but I would bet you could do a great job on your first attempt with a little guidance. Bill
I don't think I could have said it better .... It's all in the prepwork and practice makes perfect !
21 years ago when I did the St T the first time , I was working with a spray painter who was better than even I thought. When I proudly presented the whole boat sanded for the first coat of primer he said 'that's a start n0w get back t0 it ' By the time the c0I0ur went 0n , I had just ab0ut sanded my arms d0wn t0 the sh0uIders !
N0w , if I had that c0mpressor and guns in the garage Iike Randy;;;;
PS imminent keyb0ard faIiue ! ! :nilly:

0h , BTW BiII ,, why did yu0 sh00t the trans0m separate fr0m the rest 0f the huII ?

gcarter
07-16-2008, 02:12 PM
0h , BTW BiII ,, why did yu0 sh00t the trans0m separate fr0m the rest 0f the huII ?
I know! I know!:propeller:
It has a definate start/stop point.
It's the way I'd do it.

Conquistador_del_mar
07-16-2008, 02:23 PM
I know! I know!:propeller:
It has a definate start/stop point.
It's the way I'd do it.

:wink: Yes, I like to have a good edge to break the paint or if you try to make it all the way around, it will essentially create an overspray by the time you make it back around to the starting point. Those edges are fairly easy to work out compared to overspray. Bill

Morgan's Cloud
07-17-2008, 07:10 AM
:wink: Yes, I like to have a good edge to break the paint or if you try to make it all the way around, it will essentially create an overspray by the time you make it back around to the starting point. Those edges are fairly easy to work out compared to overspray. Bill
Funny .... That must be the ONLY problem I've never encountered yet in refininshing the boats I've done :D

Conquistador_del_mar
07-17-2008, 10:51 AM
Funny .... That must be the ONLY problem I've never encountered yet in refininshing the boats I've done :D

In this case, I am working in an average of 95 degree temperatures during the day in my shop which is not air conditioned here in north Texas. I would typically shoot the entire hull in one shot if it were in the mid 70s. If there is a little overspray on the final edge, I have used Imron reducer to help blend in the final corner. Also, in this case, I was a little worried about all the work I had done on the transom which has compound curves, so I thought I would get it done first in case I wanted to reshoot it. One of the best paint jobs I ever did was a very dark blue Imron on a Donzi 22 classic. I shot it in about a 75 degree temperature right after a good rain. I walked away from it with no compounding work necessary - it was georgeous. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
07-29-2008, 08:32 PM
I am trying to get together the many parts that I will be needing on this project. Just today, I finally lined up a chrome shop to handle the rechroming of some of the parts like the Morse throttle handle, the Teleflex steering bezel, the vents, etc. Here are a couple pictures of the parts that I have assembled. I restored the original gauge cluster with all new gauges after prepping the backing bezel. I updated a little with bezels since I am doing a sort of resto mod - keeping most of the original look but adding a few newer touches. The single Carling switch is for the drive trim. All these gauges and instruments will be mounted on a brushed SS backing plate across the entire dash. I will add some pictures of the Imron painted hull in a couple days. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
08-01-2008, 07:41 PM
After getting the 1/16" brushed SS dash made from a template I had made, I laid out the pieces on the dash as I think they will eventually set. From the left to right: outdrive trim switch, depth gauge with 2 push/pull switches, steering bezel, plate with lights/interior lights switches and cigarette lighter, main gauge cluster, GPS speedometer, and grab rail. I clear coated the polished aluminum pieces today and set out the pieces in the second picture to go to the chrome shop on Monday. Any comments on the layout? By the way, the trim tab switch will go on the left side behind the throttle like I first placed it in about 1974. The Imron paint work has had some glitches or I would have posted some pictures - lol. Bill

gcarter
08-01-2008, 08:00 PM
Bill, I like the brushed SST panel. I really like the finish. Maybe early next year you could give me a contact #.

I understand glitches, I had to touch up some gel today.

The Hedgehog
08-01-2008, 08:28 PM
That is beautiful. Very nice touch

Conquistador_del_mar
08-01-2008, 09:12 PM
Bill, I like the brushed SST panel. I really like the finish. Maybe early next year you could give me a contact #.

I understand glitches, I had to touch up some gel today.

George,
I will be playing with the grit of sandpaper to produce the exact look that I want. The side I showed is the back side of the dash panel which I brushed with 220 grit for only a couple minutes to produce a fairly nice look with very little glare. I will follow the curve of the dash with my brush sanding when I get almost ready to install it. The man I use builds precision pieces for many local businesses, but it is a father/son business and they don't try to retire with every sale. The 4'x8' sheet cost them around $400, but they only charged me $75 for my plasma cut piece. I kept my template in case anyone else needs one made.
Yes, I have have had some problems with my Imron painting, but I will get it right. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
08-01-2008, 09:16 PM
That is beautiful. Very nice touch

Bill,
Thanks for your vote of approval. I also think it will look great when all the pieces come together. I am getting more excited by the day to get it done. Bill

BigGrizzly
08-02-2008, 10:37 AM
After seeing your past work I am not surprised at your quality ofr work that you do, but I am still impressed and envious. My wife said I could do it too if I stopped thinking of engines. I have done some pretty impressive furniture work.

Conquistador_del_mar
08-02-2008, 11:35 AM
After seeing your past work I am not surprised at your quality ofr work that you do, but I am still impressed and envious. My wife said I could do it too if I stopped thinking of engines. I have done some pretty impressive furniture work.

Randy,
If you can do nice furniture work, my bet it that you can do all the cosmetic type work on boats, too. It sounds like you just need to get after it - it will come to you. My first boat restoration was a 1953 Chris Craft 18' Riviera. Furniture restoration reminded me of that boat since it requires so much wood work, staining, varnishing, etc. It turned out nice enough that Ross Perot was complimenting me at our local ramp. You know how it goes, though. We settle on small imperfections that bother us, but most people never notice them - lol. I can't remember if I posted a picture of a 1939 Chris Craft 17' deluxe runabout that I restored after the 1953. They are really bringing some good money now. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
08-06-2008, 08:18 PM
It took me far longer than it should to paint the hull with Imron. My first shot went bad when a gust of wind raised the plastic into the fresh paint. My second shot also went bad after I used a contaminated towel for my final wipedown with prep solve. Yesterday, I finally got a good shot on it. Today I masked off and shot the boot stripe. Tomorrow I will be shooting a couple coats of clear on it just for added protection. Getting the boot stripe to taper down to a point at the bow with the fine line tape took a while to get it right. Most of my work has been in 105 degree days - ouch! Now I feel like I am getting somewhere. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
08-08-2008, 06:23 PM
Since I finished painting the hull, I removed the deck masking. I polished out the transom red in the deck to compare the color of Imron I had chosen which comes very close. I used Imron 51078 which is a color chart color so that I can always get more matching color in the future. The Imron might be a little richer red, but the gelcoat red has also oxidized over the 37 years. I included a port side picture before the paint work to show how oxidized the gelcoat had become. I wish digital cameras did not produce lines that are not straight. I thought I would pass along a little trick. In order to get the bow sanded, I used a styrofoam block with the stick on sandpaper to follow the concave curved bow section. I have also used foam pads on these type hand sanded areas since I can't use machine sanders. They spread the sanding load better than trying to do it with my bare hands. I really look forward to getting back on the deck restoration. Bill

The Hedgehog
08-08-2008, 07:45 PM
Bill,

You are a mad man with a mission.

Looking good.

I forgot what you are doing about the power.

Conquistador_del_mar
08-09-2008, 01:03 AM
Bill,
There is still a slight chance that I will be getting a 383 built up for it, but I am inclined to install a nearly new 330HP Vortec that I took out of my 1980 Vette when I installed a 383/450HP dressed motor in it last year. I think I will get 65MPH+ with the speedmaster drive, and I really want reliability over top end speed with this old boat that I still love. I really don't want to have to install external steering like I would want if it went much faster. My dream as it unfolds is to make this boat look better and run faster than when I first bought it in 1973. I will be going much farther in the restoration than I first planned since I want to keep it this time around.
Send me an email at my address I gave you the other day when we talked so I can get the 5/8" SS rod to you. Bill

Magicallbill
08-09-2008, 03:04 AM
Looks like your well on the way to a great finish..
Boat looks great so far..I love the old 2+3's...

gcarter
08-09-2008, 06:31 AM
You do nice paint work Bill!!!:eek!::eek!:

Madcow
08-09-2008, 08:19 AM
You boat is really looking great!

BigGrizzly
08-09-2008, 09:51 AM
Del Mar, I like your thinking. I did the high speed thing on the Corsican, with the stock steering and almost lost it. I reduced the power, usede every steering combo available, no feed back, rack and the Teleflex internal Hydrqaulic. For most purposes it was a bolt on in my case. By far the best of the lot. I then installed the Teleflex power assist unit and this is a dream, expensive but a dream, WFO with one finger. The answer to everyone next question is YES I would do it again. Anyway your work looks great. Thanks for the foam tip I can use that on some furniture projects too. Who knows maybe the Criterion may get a face lift. I am enjoying this thread. This is a Carter thread with paint. COOL:)

Conquistador_del_mar
08-09-2008, 09:53 AM
Looks like your well on the way to a great finish..
Boat looks great so far..I love the old 2+3's...

Your 16' was an inspiration when I saw the pictures your son posted recently. Your use of "on the way to a great finish" was clever with the double meaning. I won't be keeping everything original looking like you did, but mine will be a sort of resto mod. Overall, though, it will keep with the spirit of the original look. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
08-09-2008, 10:19 AM
You do nice paint work Bill!!!:eek!::eek!:

Thanks, George. I will return the compliment on your gelcoat work. I also had some problems with the Imron work - at least I am not doing it professionally anymore or I would have been more upset with myself - lol. Bill


You boat is really looking great!

Thanks. I could not resist posting this picture after reading your gynecologist line. I thought it was too funny. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
08-09-2008, 10:42 AM
Del Mar, I like your thinking. I did the high speed thing on the Corsican, with the stock steering and almost lost it. I reduced the power, usede every steering combo available, no feed back, rack and the Teleflex internal Hydrqaulic. For most purposes it was a bolt on in my case. By far the best of the lot. I then installed the Teleflex power assist unit and this is a dream, expensive but a dream, WFO with one finger. The answer to everyone next question is YES I would do it again. Anyway your work looks great. Thanks for the foam tip I can use that on some furniture projects too. Who knows maybe the Criterion may get a face lift. I am enjoying this thread. This is a Carter thread with paint. COOL:)

Randy,
I might still get back with you about your steering system if my boat does not seem safe when I get it out. I picked up that foam sanding idea when I bonded a custom fiberglass front and rear end on my 1980 Vette. It worked like a champ on the recessed curves where I could not get the bond straight with hand sanding. I used a 12" or so piece of that foam with stick on air file sandpaper and it worked great. I'm glad you enjoy the thread - I am enjoying taking the pictures of the progress which I so rarely have done in the past. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
08-10-2008, 10:54 PM
Today, I decided to tackle the fuel tank integrity, etc. After blocking the passages, I applied a small pressure to the tank to make sure it was not leaking in case I might have to repair/replace the tank. It did not leak, but it had quite a bit of debris in it after the 37 years. I pulled the outlet pickup and sending unit. The pickup was a little short since I had modified it for a friend who used to own it years ago - it was picking up debris so I shortened it a little. I then vacuumed the bottom of the tank through the sending unit hole with a hose that I taped onto my wet dry vacuum. It had no fumes and was dry so it was not a dangerous situation. I emptied the vacuum to see what debris had accumulated over the 37 years. That pile of stuff in the picture is about 1/2" tall. After checking the sending unit with a VOM ohmeter, I will be replacing it. The tank is now completely clean as I looked with a mirror. I soldered on a new pickup with no screen since I have a good inline filter/water separator. The new pickup is about 3/8" off the bottom and I flared the end a little before installing it. I was surprised at how good the interior of the tank looked after so many years - no rust or scale deposits on the interior surface.
In another picture is a view of the fuel tank bulkhead from the back of the storage bin area. I was pleased to find access holes in the stringers for accessing the nuts on the bottom of the seat block machine screws. Removing the seat blocks was simple. Bill

BigGrizzly
08-11-2008, 10:28 AM
I did the same thing to my Corsican and the 16. worked great

Conquistador_del_mar
08-19-2008, 08:59 PM
I got a little side tracked by some other projects, but I got back on the deck preparation. Since I decided to go farther with the restoration, I am prepping the cokcpit as well as every ding and fracture in the deck before painting it with Imron. I ended up filling many of the holes in the dash including the left hand steering so I can raise the steering bezel by about 3/8'" so it will be centered in the new stainless steel dash panel. It took me a while to get the engine hatch lip raised enough to have the hatch set flush with the deck - not as easy as it sounds. I will be painting the hatch and scoop separate from the deck and cokcpit. When I get it painted, the real fun part begins with the installation of everything. I took these shots today. Bill

BigGrizzly
08-20-2008, 09:26 AM
Stop, you are making me want to start on mine.

Conquistador_del_mar
08-29-2008, 09:33 PM
I thought I would show the newly painted engine hatch that I finished today. I painted the scoop separate from the hatch which still needs to be attached with the SS screws and finishing washers. I filled the hinge holes since I might change hinges. They both needed quite a bit of prep work to get them straight after so many years, but they now look great. This is the original engine cover and scoop from 1971. Has anyone seen the same scoop used - I have not? I sort of presume that it was added since it came with an LT1 (350CID/350HP solid lifter Corvette engine) which has a relatively high rise intake manifold so the breather needed the hole in the hatch. Tomorrow, I should get the new 330HP Vortec engine painted with a red Imron and start getting the engine ready by moving some parts over from the one I pulled. As soon as I can get the deck and cokcpit painted, I will start to install the many new parts that I have assembled. Just a quick update. Bill

The Hedgehog
08-29-2008, 09:47 PM
Looks dynomite from here. Keep up posted. Nice work

Conquistador_del_mar
08-30-2008, 12:30 AM
Looks dynomite from here. Keep up posted. Nice work

Thanks. I have no idea why my pictures look so bad when I pull them up after uploading them. Maybe I need to quit downsizing them from the originals. Anyway, I will continue to post updates when I have done more work on it. I think it is going to turn out great, and I am getting more excited about it now. I am still debating how I want the upholstery to look. Bill

MOP
08-30-2008, 07:49 AM
No problem with your pictures here!! Man you are doing a real bang up job almost can't wait for it to be back together! I think you may be an inspiration for Carter to get his butt moving!!!!!!! Two more red beauties added to the fleet!

Conquistador_del_mar
08-30-2008, 11:38 AM
No problem with your pictures here!! Man you are doing a real bang up job almost can't wait for it to be back together! I think you may be an inspiration for Carter to get his butt moving!!!!!!! Two more red beauties added to the fleet!

I'm glad to hear that the pictures are not as bad as I think they are showing. George and I have been talking on the phone occasionally - in fact he is scheduled to give me a visit in late October on one of his trips. He had some business matters come up that required his attention, but he is now back to working on some other aspects of the restoration other than the gelcoat. Sometimes you need a break on the larger problem areas to get inspired to tackle them again. I have done the same thing by getting some of the other details done and then coming back to the deck and cokcpit paint work. When I did restorations professionally, I did not have the luxury of doing the work at my own preferred pace so this is actually fun work for me :clap:. It almost never goes as fast as what I would predict, but then I am not in any real hurry either. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
09-02-2008, 08:31 PM
I got back the chrome parts today from a local shop who took them to Dallas for the chroming work. I was very pleased with the finished work since most of the pieces were pitted, etc. They charged $359 which I thought was reasonable. Most of them actually look like new parts now - yippee. Onwards and upwards, Bill

mrfixxall
09-02-2008, 08:57 PM
I should get the new 330HP Vortec engine....

Bill you may not want to use that oil pan that the engine came with..It only holds 4 1/2 qts of oil and the engine produces 60 psi of oil pressure at idle..ive installled many many of thease engines and the first one i installed went knock knock after 5 hrs of use..i ended putting a moroso 7qt on the ''new engine that gm warrentied and all the others ive done..i also replaced the oil pump as well with a m77hv with the weaker spring that came with the pump...the hole in the oil pump where the pick up tube goes was to small for the recommended pick up tube that came with the moroso oil pan so i had to put the new oil pump on as well..with the weaker spring they supplyed with the oil pump the oil pressure was 25 at idle and 55-60 at 5k..

(edit) also either ditch the crome timing cover or remove the crome on the gasket side with a da,,it also leaks!!

I also used a milodon oilpan not moroso as stated(i think moroso didnt make the rite oil pan for my application, i believe the block had pass and or dr side dipstick holes and milodon was the only one that made it..this style and it works great!http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MIL%2D30902&N=700+4294908216+4294840140+115&autoview=sku this isnt the rite part #,call summit and tell them what you have..

BUIZILLA
09-02-2008, 09:07 PM
I should get the new 330HP Vortec engine....
Bill you may not want to use that oil pan that the engine came with..It only holds 4 1/2 qts of oil and the engine produces 60 psi of oil pressure at idle..ive installled many many of thease engines and the first one i installed went knock knock after 5 hrs of use..i ended putting a moroso 7qt on the ''new engine that gm warrentied and all the others ive done..i also replaced the oil pump as well with a m77hv with the weaker spring that came with the pump...the hole in the oil pump where the pick up tube goes was to small for the recommended pick up tube that came with the moroso oil pan so i had to put the new oil pump on as well..with the weaker spring they supplyed with the oil pump the oil pressure was 25 at idle and 55-60 at 5k..
very good advice..

Conquistador_del_mar
09-02-2008, 09:08 PM
I should get the new 330HP Vortec engine....

Bill you may not want to use that oil pan that the engine came with..It only holds 4 1/2 qts of oil and the engine produces 60 psi of oil pressure at idle..ive installled many many of thease engines and the first one i installed went knock knock after 5 hrs of use..i ended putting a moroso 7qt on the ''new engine that gm warrentied and all the others ive done..i also replaced the oil pump as well with a m77hv with the weaker spring that came with the pump...the hole in the oil pump where the pick up tube goes was to small for the recommended pick up tube that came with the moroso oil pan so i had to put the new oil pump on as well..with the weaker spring they supplyed with the oil pump the oil pressure was 25 at idle and 55-60 at 5k..

Mike,
Good advice. In fact I was converting the 7 qt pan, pump, and pickup from the old engine to the 330HP Vortec over the weekend since I feared that the pan was not large enough. Now you convinced me that I am doing the right thing. At first I thought I could just change the pan over, but the pickup is over an inch lower on the 7 qt pan so I am doing the full exchange. Thanks, Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
09-02-2008, 09:24 PM
I should get the new 330HP Vortec engine....

(edit) also either ditch the crome timing cover or remove the crome on the gasket side with a da,,it also leaks!!

I also used a milodon oilpan not moroso as stated(i think moroso didnt make the rite oil pan for my application, i believe the block had pass or dr side dipstick holes and milodon was the only one that made it..this style and it works great!http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MIL%2D30902&N=700+4294908216+4294840140+115&autoview=sku

Thanks again. I am using a Glenwood aluminum timing cover to accomodate the Magnaflow water pump so the old chrome cover will also be transplanted to the old engine that I pulled. Right before I left my shop this evening, I clear coated a few aluminum parts including the Glenwood timing cover. I will be checking out the oil pump that I am transferring before I install it in the Vortec. Bill

mrfixxall
09-02-2008, 11:15 PM
Thanks again. I am using a Glenwood aluminum timing cover to accomodate the Magnaflow water pump so the old chrome cover will also be transplanted to the old engine that I pulled. Right before I left my shop this evening, I clear coated a few aluminum parts including the Glenwood timing cover. I will be checking out the oil pump that I am transferring before I install it in the Vortec. Bill

your 7 qt pan may not work,if i remember correctly on the vortech engine it has 2 humps on the side of the block where the dip stick goes and the pan has the humps also..ill look at the boat i have sitting out side tomarrow that i installed the first vortech in (sank,bellow tore and battery went dead):bonk: and ill take some pics..

Btw you may want to run a hone inside that magnioflo pump housing that you had recromed..sea water will distroy the crome and you will be chewing up impellers..

Those engines are pretty strong but i the your lt1 has alot more torque, the 23 celebrity cuddy i have outside runs 55 mph at 4800 rpm..im pretty sure you going to need a new flywheel also (one piece rear main seal,smaller bolt pattern)

Conquistador_del_mar
09-02-2008, 11:58 PM
your 7 qt pan may not work,if i remember correctly on the vortech engine it has 2 humps on the side of the block where the dip stick goes and the pan has the humps also..ill look at the boat i have sitting out side tomarrow that i installed the first vortech in (sank,bellow tore and battery went dead):bonk: and ill take some pics..

Btw you may want to run a hone inside that magnioflo pump housing that you had recromed..sea water will distroy the crome and you will be chewing up impellers..

Those engines are pretty strong but i the your lt1 has alot more torque, the 23 celebrity cuddy i have outside runs 55 mph at 4800 rpm..im pretty sure you going to need a new flywheel also (one piece rear main seal,smaller bolt pattern)

I will check the oil pump/pan swap tomorrow. Good thought on the chrome inside the Magnaflow pump - I meant to tell them to mask it off, but I think it got chromed. I already bought a new externally balanced one piece rear main seal 168 tooth flywheel after talking to a tech man at Jeg's since it had a flexplate from the previous application in my Vette. I also got a new Volvo Penta vibration damper that I hope will bolt right up to the new flywheel. Thanks again, Bill
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=022&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=350092570312&rd=1

mrfixxall
09-03-2008, 09:59 AM
I will check the oil pump/pan swap tomorrow. Good thought on the chrome inside the Magnaflow pump - I meant to tell them to mask it off, but I think it got chromed. I already bought a new externally balanced one piece rear main seal 168 tooth flywheel after talking to a tech man at Jeg's since it had a flexplate from the previous application in my Vette. I also got a new Volvo Penta vibration damper that I hope will bolt right up to the new flywheel. Thanks again, Bill
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=022&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=350092570312&rd=1

i dont think the 168 tooth flywheel will fit inside the older volvo bell housing????i may be wrong if i remember correctly also if the 168 flywheel is used the nose cone of the starter hits the inside of the bell housing..mock it up before you install it:wink:

Conquistador_del_mar
09-16-2008, 09:03 PM
Progress seems slow, but I have gotten quite a few things ready on the restoration. I decided to do all the fitting before I paint the deck and cokcpit so I will not be in and out of the boat so many times on the fresh paint. I installed the new stainless steel dash and cut all the holes except for a couple more hold down finishing washers with screws. I really like the look! I will have to remove it for the paint work, but it will be easy to reinstall now. The steering was a little tricky since I am not using the Big-T by Teleflex, but I made the original rechromed bezels work with the new system. I also show a picture of the new 330HP Vortec engine all painted with Imron and just about ready to install. There is also a picture of the engine mount showing the new vibration damper which I was able to acquire from a Chris Craft restoration shop. The last picture is the Morse throttle reassembled after having it rechromed. I have done quite a few other sideline aspects of the restoration so it will come together fairly quickly after I finally paint the deck. Bill

BigGrizzly
09-17-2008, 09:07 AM
I like the engine mounts, dash looks great.

Conquistador_del_mar
09-29-2008, 12:53 PM
Since I had to do some serious shuffling around yesterday to fit the 27' Magnum into my shop (all my rental stalls are occupied and my other shop building bay is also full), I took these two pictures of the 18' outside. The blue line under the deck is 3M masking tape. I hope to get the deck painted soon so I can start putting it back together - :wink: Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
10-04-2008, 10:38 AM
Last evening before I left my business to drive home, I received a call from the 1971 Donzi original owner. I bought the 18 from him in 1973 after he advertised it in the Dallas Morning News. We have seen each other quite a few times over the years, but we lost touch after I moved to Denison, TX in 1985 until about 10 years ago when he and his wife drove up to Lake Texoma and saw me working outside of my business. He was ecstatic to find out that I had bought it back and was in the process of restoring it!! Needless to say, he will be driving up from Dallas soon to see it. We became friends from day one when he sort of took me under his wing. Bill is about 12 years older than myself, and when I bought the Donzi, he insisted on walking me through the operation and maintenance. I am now even more inspired to finish the restoration for his sake. He made me promise to take him for a ride when it is done. Too cool!! Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
10-10-2008, 06:09 PM
I finally got the deck painted with Imron. I will be taking the deck back down to 500 grit and shooting a clear coat on it for added protection while also taking out the minor trash by wet sanding it. The blue stripe is 3M masking tape that I will again use to mask for the clear on the deck. I am almost ready to start putting it all back together - yippee!! Bill

cutwater
10-10-2008, 09:56 PM
Looking good Bill. And great story with the original owner. That's what it's all about!

Conquistador_del_mar
10-10-2008, 11:11 PM
Thanks, John. Rigging the boat is really my favorite part followed by taking it out for the first time. My friend (and some other guys) will get a kick out of seeing it all done and riding in it after all the years. It turned out very nice, but there was sure a ton of prep work to get to this point.

superhatz
10-12-2008, 11:21 PM
Nice job Bill......pretty shiny!!

Conquistador_del_mar
10-13-2008, 12:42 AM
Nice job Bill......pretty shiny!!

Thanks, Aaron. I'll show some better pictures of it with the clear coat that I shot on it today, but I am going to the Texas State Fair tomorrow with my girlfriend (fiance) and her grand daughter. I can't wait to start putting it back together!

Conquistador_del_mar
10-17-2008, 01:51 AM
Thanks, Aaron. I'll show some better pictures of it with the clear coat that I shot on it today, but I am going to the Texas State Fair tomorrow with my girlfriend (fiance) and her grand daughter. I can't wait to start putting it back together!

Here is the deck with the final clear coat that I just shot late this afternoon. I decided to shoot one more coat after taking down the last clear coat. Can you guess why there appears to be a "mist" in the air? I sure wish I could shoot the deck upside down or in a downdraft paint booth, but it turned out almost perfect this time. Bill

bobwpe
10-17-2008, 06:46 AM
That looks better than new Bill! So was it two coats of clear total or did the job require more?

BigGrizzly
10-17-2008, 09:57 AM
Again I am impressed, looks really good.

Mach 5
10-17-2008, 10:40 AM
Beautiful Bill!!
I wish I were in Texas, then We could 'debut' our two projects together!!

Garry
1967 Ski Sporter v-drive
Seattle, WA

Conquistador_del_mar
10-17-2008, 11:03 AM
That looks better than new Bill! So was it two coats of clear total or did the job require more?

Bob,
I did this a little different than the boats in the past - mostly because of the center stripe. The white and red colors are Imron. Where they meet, there is always a ridge which I would typically wet sand down to a flat surface and then compound out - along with any trash. This time, I decided to wet sand the entire deck and shoot an automotive clear coat for better protection and to make it easier on me. I find it much easier to wet sand and shoot a clear coat than compound out these hard paints to a high gloss. In hindsight, I could have used the base coat/clear coat paint system, but using this method added some depth to the paint for protection and a paint job always looks better with each sanding and reshoot - plus there will not be the flat underlying base coat which you can not compound to a gloss. This job ended up with two heavy coats of clear on top of the Imron. I will have to wait until I get it out in the sun and start to see some wear scratches (should compound out) before I will know for sure that I am happy using this method, but I think it should work out both looking great and having great UV and weathering properties. My greatest concern is if it will have almost too high a gloss in the sun - :wink: Bill


Again I am impressed, looks really good.

Thanks, Randy. So when are you going to get started on your boat? Winter would be the perfect time if you have a place to work with some heat. Nudge - :yes: Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
10-17-2008, 11:31 AM
Beautiful Bill!!
I wish I were in Texas, then We could 'debut' our two projects together!!

Garry
1967 Ski Sporter v-drive
Seattle, WA

Yep, it would make a great picture with our two boats together! You have really caught up with me even though I think I started quite a bit before you. Your glass/paint guys really got with it. I actually feel like I am 2/3 done now that the deck and hull are completed. I have most of the parts ready to be installed so it should really start to look like a complete boat soon. My upholstery man is almost ready to do my seats and the upholstery is there. I have not finalized whether I want him to do them in the old school method of true tuck and roll or the sewn method of making the pleats (I am probably using the wrong terminology). He was doing the entire interior, carpet, and headliner in a black 1969 Chevelle using the old school method a couple days ago, and I was really impressed with the look. My concern is how that method would look at the top of the front seats where it might bulge at the transition to the upholstery on the back of the seats since it has so much foam and upholstery involved. Anyway, onwards and upwards, Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
10-25-2008, 09:31 PM
I am finally starting to put all the parts back on the Donzi. It was a little painful drilling the new holes for the new set of trim tabs after filling the old holes before painting, but I know it has to have the trim tabs to get the right set at speed. I really like the new dash as does everyone who has come by my shop. By the way, don't do what I did last night!! Whenever you restore a boat, just leave all the receipts in an envelope - don't add them up - lol. At this point, I am hoping to have it completed in less than a month. The new red carpet came in today and my upholstery man should be getting the seats done. The new rub rail is also on its way along with new control cables. I believe I have everything else. Bill

cutwater
10-25-2008, 10:36 PM
Wow, that looks great!

bobwpe
10-26-2008, 07:29 AM
That looks great Bill. Looks like we'll be finishing up our projects about the same time (even though I started 2 years earlier:bonk:).

What kind of trim tabs are you using? I am going to try mine without tabs to see what it's like but will probably add them later and was planning on using the 12 x 9 Bennetts. I'd like to look into what your'e using.

Conquistador_del_mar
10-26-2008, 10:45 AM
Wow, that looks great!

Thanks! It will look so much like a new boat that most people would never know. The Volvo Penta speedmaster drive, original gauge cluster, and a few other parts will only give away the actual age to the few people who are old school knowledgable.



That looks great Bill. Looks like we'll be finishing up our projects about the same time (even though I started 2 years earlier:bonk:).

What kind of trim tabs are you using? I am going to try mine without tabs to see what it's like but will probably add them later and was planning on using the 12 x 9 Bennetts. I'd like to look into what your'e using.

Do you have any pictures of your boat? I always like seeing restorations. I chose the Bennett ST-9 trim tabs. I installed my first set of trim tabs in about 1975 on this very boat, and I never had another deep V hull boat that did not get trim tabs. I personally consider them a necessity. These tabs have a one inch section on the outside of the tab bent up for extra strength. My old original set of Boat Leveler tabs actually bent a little with the pressure of the water so I went with these along with adding some extra fiberglass on the back side of the transom since this old Donzi only has a partial transom. I wanted to make sure the trim tabs would not add too much force to the area of the transom where they are mounted which is not reinforced with the two sheets of plywood. Bill

bobwpe
10-26-2008, 05:57 PM
Thanks Bill, I'll take your advice. There are pictures of my boat on an update thread I started.

Bob

Conquistador_del_mar
10-29-2008, 09:04 PM
You don't see one of these being installed or used very often today. I think I first bought it in around 1975 for this 1971 Donzi after I blew up the original outdrive due to my negligence. I know - wrong color - lol. I just about finished the wiring today so I will be on to some of the other aspects of the restoration. I installed a fuse and ground block since the boat never had them, and I thought it would be a little safer with the addition. I hope to spend the next couple days in the engine compartment. :nilly: Bill

onesubdrvr
10-29-2008, 09:09 PM
Bill,

When I had my X-18, I wanted to find a speedmaster drive for it, that way I could keep it some-what original, and have the advantages of a very streamlined drive.

Project is looking great!!

Wayne

Conquistador_del_mar
10-29-2008, 09:20 PM
Bill,

When I had my X-18, I wanted to find a speedmaster drive for it, that way I could keep it some-what original, and have the advantages of a very streamlined drive.

Project is looking great!!

Wayne

Thanks, Wayne. Did you sell your X-18? It certainly wouldn't have come originally with one - or did it? I just have to hope this one keeps going! Bill

onesubdrvr
10-29-2008, 09:27 PM
Thanks, Wayne. Did you sell your X-18? It certainly wouldn't have come originally with one - or did it? I just have to hope this one keeps going! Bill
Yeah, I sold it right around the time I started school,.... had to make a decision, and I think I made the right one,... :( as much as it hurt ;)

No, it didn't come with one, what I meant, was it needed a complete repower, and a new transom. I could have gone mercury / etc. but I am a big believer in the Volvo, but always thought it was bulky, it would have been great with the speedmaster on there.

Had a 270 originally, got all the stuff to make it a 280t, then parted everything out. Hull went to a guy over in (I think) naples, drive went to a board member to go on another X-18, and he loves it.

X-18 has always been one of my favorite Donzi's, the 18 is just a little tough on my legs, and the raised deck on the X gave me a little additional clearance ;)

REALLY like the 24' spitfire and Doral,... maybe one day when I start shuffling kids off ;)

Again, looking great!
Wayne

Conquistador_del_mar
10-29-2008, 09:43 PM
Yeah, I sold it right around the time I started school,.... had to make a decision, and I think I made the right one,... :( as much as it hurt ;)

No, it didn't come with one, what I meant, was it needed a complete repower, and a new transom. I could have gone mercury / etc. but I am a big believer in the Volvo, but always thought it was bulky, it would have been great with the speedmaster on there.

Had a 270 originally, got all the stuff to make it a 280t, then parted everything out. Hull went to a guy over in (I think) naples, drive went to a board member to go on another X-18, and he loves it.

X-18 has always been one of my favorite Donzi's, the 18 is just a little tough on my legs, and the raised deck on the X gave me a little additional clearance ;)

REALLY like the 24' spitfire and Doral,... maybe one day when I start shuffling kids off ;)

Again, looking great!
Wayne

I always liked the X18, too. I had one friend who used to have one, but that was back in the 70s. We don't see too many Donzis around here in north Texas, but I have owned this red 1971, two GT21s, and an 18 Corsican V drive over the years. I used to look at a certain Donzi brochure with a light blue Spitfire that I always thought was fabulous, but I never even saw one in person. Maybe some day - :wink: Bill

BigGrizzly
10-30-2008, 10:43 AM
Neat bow thruster.

Conquistador_del_mar
11-08-2008, 10:03 PM
After pressing in new bearings and seals on the new drive shaft in the bell housing, I installed the bell housing to the Volvo Penta transom assembly. Today I lowered the new engine and fitted it to the bell housing making sure I adjusted the engine mounts so there was no pressure on the sealing rings of the bell housing. I had already installed everything in the engine compartment except the wiring. I hope to get the exhaust manifolds and risers installed tomorrow, followed by the exhaust tips. I mounted the alternator on a new low mount bracket which clears the stringer by a little more than an inch - :yes: Onward. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
11-09-2008, 12:17 PM
Since finishing the dash panel and wiring, I forgot to mention that the original 8-wire wiring harness was still in the boat. Under the dash, there was a connector plug which I never like to see, since they are typically where continuity is lost so I cut the wire connector out and went directly to the gauges, etc. The 37 year old wiring harness was about 6' longer than it had to be so the excess was coiled up under the front deck on the ouside of the starboard main stringer. The original wiring harness was wrapped in electrical tape and a clear spiral plastic protector was wrapped around it. I was amazed to find that the original wires were like new! - still supple and no corrosion inside. I added a four wire harness which I taped together with the original harness wires when I had it out of the boat and then lead the entire wiring harness back through the starboard side securing it up to near the top of the starboard stringer using the same drilled holes as it was originally secured. I had to add two extra wires for the necessary connections so I now have two extra wires for future use. I labeled the 8 gang fuse block connections with an electronic label maker. I checked all the controls and everything works except the fuel gauge. After diagnosing the problem, I discovered that I had ordered a 90ohm Stewart Warner fuel gauge instead of the 240ohm gauge - :bonk:. Bill

cutwater
11-09-2008, 04:14 PM
I checked all the controls and everything works except the fuel gauge. After diagnosing the problem, I discovered that I had ordered a 90ohm Stewart Warner fuel gauge instead of the 240ohm gauge - :bonk:. Bill

If that's the biggest mistake you made, then you're doing well!

BigGrizzly
11-09-2008, 06:01 PM
You think you have extra wire. I have a Criterion. The Dash and controls are in the back seat. The harness is for a std 22 classic or larger I got 11 feet of extra wire between the bow and stern and 4 extra from that harness to the instrument panel:confused:

Conquistador_del_mar
11-09-2008, 07:04 PM
If that's the biggest mistake you made, then you're doing well!

Actually, the biggest mistake I made was not filling the exhaust tip holes in the transom while I was doing all the fiberglass and paint work on the transom. The old holes don't line up with the new exhaust so right now I am trying to think what would be the easiest and least expensive way to fix that oversight. Bill


You think you have extra wire. I have a Criterion. The Dash and controls are in the back seat. The harness is for a std 22 classic or larger I got 11 feet of extra wire between the bow and stern and 4 extra from that harness to the instrument panel:confused:

At least you can do quite a few reconnections over the years. Does the Criterion have a wire harness connector like the 18' that I am restoring? If it does, that is one way to use some of the excess wiring - do away with the connector and go directly to the instruments and contols. Just a thought. Bill

BigGrizzly
11-10-2008, 05:51 PM
Yes connectors on both ends. two on the instrument end. On the Criterion they were good on the Corsican It wads soo trashed I re did the Harness The wire insulation was hard ans cracking. I almost made a mistake and fixed it but new wiring was a better idea, especiallu because they had mounted the connectors on the stringers ugg. Can you say big time corrosion.

Conquistador_del_mar
11-10-2008, 09:40 PM
Actually, the biggest mistake I made was not filling the exhaust tip holes in the transom while I was doing all the fiberglass and paint work on the transom. The old holes don't line up with the new exhaust so right now I am trying to think what would be the easiest and least expensive way to fix that oversight. Bill

I installed the outdrive today and bit the bullet on the exhaust holes. I taped wax paper over the outside of the holes, and then taped flat cardboard over the holes followed by fiberglassing 3 layers of round fiberglass "plugs" followed by one overlay sheet of fiberglass from the inside to fill the exhust holes for paint prep which I hope to shoot tomorrow. I should have filled them earlier! :bonk: Bill

onesubdrvr
11-10-2008, 09:47 PM
WOW! You are making remarkable progress ;) I hope you're ready to lend me a hand with my 16 lol

Wayne

Conquistador_del_mar
11-11-2008, 12:26 AM
WOW! You are making remarkable progress ;) I hope you're ready to lend me a hand with my 16 lol

Wayne

Wayne,
I thought you had to sell your X18. Do you also have a 16? I would be glad to help you if you lived around here. I am really starting to see light at the end of the tunnel, but whenever I finish the 18 I will be starting on the 27' Magnum sport- never ending projects keep me busy and happy - :wink: Bill

onesubdrvr
11-11-2008, 04:56 AM
Wayne,
I thought you had to sell your X18. Do you also have a 16? I would be glad to help you if you lived around here. I am really starting to see light at the end of the tunnel, but whenever I finish the 18 I will be starting on the 27' Magnum sport- never ending projects keep me busy and happy - :wink: Bill
I did sell my X-18, and my 16 isn't here yet, which is a good thing as I'm not quite done with school yet.

I'm actually looking forward to learning some glass skills, so while I may not be close enough for your physical help, I'll be drawing heavy on your knowledge.

Thanks!
Wayne

Conquistador_del_mar
11-11-2008, 07:06 PM
Wayne, no problem. Probably the most technically knowledgeable fiberglass man on the board might be MikeO who builds light weight canoes. I have fairly extensive experience with repairs and tricks, however.
Anyway, I got the exhaust holes ready for paint today as you can see in the pictures. I sprayed some matching paint inside the transom for a quick coverup.
I don't know if I ever showed why the Donzi was put up for sale - it had a broken drive shaft and the previous owner was not getting it fixed so he put it up for sale - lucky me! I was lucky to find a new drive shaft on ebay for about $250 which is a good price - they are hard to find. Bill

onesubdrvr
11-11-2008, 07:09 PM
Again, nice job Bill!!

Looking forward to seeing it all done, as I'm sure you are too ;)

Wayne

Speed Racer
11-12-2008, 12:43 PM
Looks really beautiful, Bill!
Nice work!!
Talk about any challenges you might have faced installing the engine with the deck on. I have been planning on getting the whole thing basically rigged without the deck, making sure the engine fires, transmission works, etc., then dropping the deck on...

GG

Conquistador_del_mar
11-12-2008, 07:45 PM
Again, nice job Bill!!

Looking forward to seeing it all done, as I'm sure you are too ;)

Wayne

Wayne,
Thanks again. I am definitely on the home stretch now - but I also felt that way a month ago - lol.


Looks really beautiful, Bill!
Nice work!!
Talk about any challenges you might have faced installing the engine with the deck on. I have been planning on getting the whole thing basically rigged without the deck, making sure the engine fires, transmission works, etc., then dropping the deck on...

GG

Garry,
Good to hear from you. I guess the biggest thing when installing the engine with the deck on is making sure all the other engine compartment installations are done first - like bilge pump, depth sounder transducer, trim tab pump and hoses, outdrive trim pump, wiring, and in my case the constant duty solenoid for the electric fuel pump, the pump, and the fuel separator/filter. The engine went in easily without both the exhaust manifolds and I used a new piece of equipment - an engine leveler which made installation a breeze - you can check my pictures for a view of it. The engine installation went easier than the outdrive installation - I guess the new drive shaft was a very tight fit with the U joint coupler, but I had it suspended so it did not tear me up - lol. How is your project going? Any new developments? Onward, Bill

I should add that I used an A frame with castors so I can move the engine anywhere in the engine compartment which makes it much easier than using a stationary hoist. Between being able to tilt the engine with the engine leveler and move it anywhere, it was an easy installation.

Conquistador_del_mar
11-17-2008, 08:43 PM
I filled the exhaust holes in the transom, painted them, and cut new holes that line up perfectly with the riser outlets. All the transom parts are now installed including the new trumpet exhaust tips. On a side note, the new Glenwood small risers came with an angled exhaust outlet that matches the angle of the transom so that the tips and riser outlets line up almost perfectly - unlike the older ones that came straight out - make sense? I finished the wiring and checked every function that I can before firing and running it - including turning the engine over. So far so good - :yes: Over the next couple days, I will probably install the carpet in anticipation of my upholstery man getting my seats done and finish up in the engine compartment. I will post some pictures of the wiring and completed engine compartment in the next couple days. Onward, Bill

onesubdrvr
11-17-2008, 08:46 PM
Bill,

Looking good,... nay looking great!

I am still amazed at your progress,.... and I'm thinking it's going to take me close to 2 years on the 16!!!

Wow wow wow!!

Wayne

Conquistador_del_mar
11-22-2008, 07:24 PM
The engine is now completely installed and wired with only the hose clamps needing to be installed. I will also be getting a 9' 33C throttle cable to take the place of the 13' cable that has a loop in it. I may disconnect the vacuum advance and automatic choke, but I want to run it first. I have also included pictures of the wiring blocks at the stern and under the dash. I wasn't crazy about my stern location for the wiring block, but it should be fine, and I clear coated the wiring after finishing the installation for protection. I could have gone the extra mile and soldered the connecting ends, but they should work fine for years. Bill

onesubdrvr
11-22-2008, 07:57 PM
Bill,

Looking very VERY nice,.... nice clean wiring too, something I've always admired. I'll have to post a picture of an R/C heli that I wired some time ago, impressive if I say so myself.

You've become an inspiration to me with the speed, and detail that your work moves along!

Thanks for keeping us updated!

Wayne

Conquistador_del_mar
11-22-2008, 09:34 PM
Bill,

Looking very VERY nice,.... nice clean wiring too, something I've always admired. I'll have to post a picture of an R/C heli that I wired some time ago, impressive if I say so myself.

You've become an inspiration to me with the speed, and detail that your work moves along!

Thanks for keeping us updated!

Wayne

Thanks, Wayne.
It feels good getting most of the work done, and I like what I have done so far - glad you do too. I was under the dash pulling the last of the carpet out of the bow ski storage today so I can hopefully install the new carpet any day. This morning, I placed an advertisement in our local Dallas Craigslist for the engine that I had pulled out of the Donzi, and it sold this evening to a friend of mine who saw the ad - small world sometimes, but I was surprised at how quickly it sold. Bill

MOP
11-22-2008, 11:08 PM
Looking good! I am a little curious about the hose routing, all I have worked on had the sea pump feed the block before the manifolds which had a short jumper to the risers. Mercury marine ran the manifolds at block temp claiming better performance, OMC ran dual passage logs. I have been told running them cold steals a little performance.

Phil

Conquistador_del_mar
11-23-2008, 01:58 AM
Looking good! I am a little curious about the hose routing, all I have worked on had the sea pump feed the block before the manifolds which had a short jumper to the risers. Mercury marine ran the manifolds at block temp claiming better performance, OMC ran dual passage logs. I have been told running them cold steals a little performance.

Phil

Phil,
If it weren't for the thermostat, the plumbing would be very straight forward. Here is how this system works from entrance to exit. Each side is the same so I will make only one path.
Water exits the cam driven pump to the exhaust manifold and then returns from the other side of the manifold. It now goes to a T on the front of the engine where it can either enter the engine if the thermostat is open or go to the top of the thermostat housing and forcing its way down the spring loaded plunger inside the housing. Either path leads the water to the bottom fittings of the thermostat housing where it exits to the forward bottom of the riser to the exit on the back end of the riser now mixing with the exhaust right before exiting the exhaust tip. The manifolds remain cool since the water never gets a chance to heat up before going through them, but I have never heard that cooler mainfolds means losing any power. I have run this same system on BBC engines making 450+HP. I would not use this type aluminum exhaust in anything but fresh water. Let me know if this routing makes sense. I should add that I have never had any problems with this type exhaust setup. Bill

gcarter
11-23-2008, 06:15 AM
Great looking, very clean engine install Bill!:yes:
Did the hull aoready have the hull bottom pickup hole?
Have you ever stuck a pressure gauge on such a pickup?
Just curious.

bobwpe
11-23-2008, 07:57 AM
Your'e moving along at a pretty good clip Bill. It looks really great and I really like the clean and simple electrical. How is the hatch clearance?
Looks like your'e gonna end up with a great ride! :)

Conquistador_del_mar
11-23-2008, 11:24 AM
Great looking, very clean engine install Bill!:yes:
Did the hull aoready have the hull bottom pickup hole?
Have you ever stuck a pressure gauge on such a pickup?
Just curious.

Thanks, George. I had to install the brass clam shell water pickup on the Donzi in about 1975 when I went with the Volvo Penta speedmaster e drive which has no water pickup. It has always worked well and is solidly mounted, so I left it on during this restoration. I debated going with a transom pickup, but I saw no particular advantage. No, I have never tested the pressure. Are you thinking it might develop too much pressure? By the way, I have tried to call you a couple times with no luck. Bill


Your'e moving along at a pretty good clip Bill. It looks really great and I really like the clean and simple electrical. How is the hatch clearance?
Looks like your'e gonna end up with a great ride! :)

Thanks, Bob. This Donzi originally came with the LT1 which has a high rise intake manifold so it has a hole with a scoop on the engine cover from the factory. When I went with a different shorter bell housing sometime back, the hole had to be elongated back by about 1" or so, but it does not affect the look. Here is a picture that I took a while back showing the original scoop. Bill

sweet 16 1966
11-24-2008, 06:32 PM
Thanks for the pics, they are inspirational to those who have projects that have not moved in a while. Keep up the good work, looks great!

Conquistador_del_mar
11-24-2008, 09:36 PM
Thanks for the pics, they are inspirational to those who have projects that have not moved in a while. Keep up the good work, looks great!

Thanks. I have the luxury of having a shop at my boat storage business. I can certainly understand how long it would take if work is done in a garage at home or only on the weekends. Quite honestly, I should have had this done a while back, but I can't seem to fire up as well now as when I was younger. Bill

Christian
11-25-2008, 11:39 PM
Project looks really great!

if anyone needs a scoop i can make them i own the molds and can provide a scoop just like donzi provided in the 70s and early 80s!

Christian
856-904-1961

Conquistador_del_mar
11-26-2008, 12:18 AM
Project looks really great!

if anyone needs a scoop i can make them i own the molds and can provide a scoop just like donzi provided in the 70s and early 80s!

Christian
856-904-1961

Christian,
Have you seen a scoop like mine? I have never seen another one like it, but it was a factory installed scoop from 1971. I have wondered how many LT1 (350CID/350HP) Chris Craft marinized engine packages were installed in 18' Donzis back in the late 60s and early 70s. Could you show some of your scoops? Bill

superhatz
11-26-2008, 01:03 AM
I've seen that scoop before, but can't remember where?.....I'm pretty sure is was in some Donzi literature.

BigGrizzly
11-26-2008, 09:40 AM
I under stand that fire up thing. I have been going to get into my for two weeks now. If I were 50 again it would be do already. Boat looks great. At my age I am even to tired to get jealous.

Conquistador_del_mar
12-05-2008, 07:12 PM
I finished wet sanding and compounding the deck except for the port side where I will still be getting in and out. Most of the deck hardware is now installed along with about half the new rubrail. Here are a few things I wanted to mention.
If you order the Taco j style rubrail replacement, be sure to order the 3/4" even though it is 1" in width - they go by the covered width and not the total width. The 1" will be 1.25" total width like the 22s have.
I ended up using the new SS grab rail ends that have the holes all the way through unlike what Jamie can get since I think they look fine with the 1/4" bolt heads polished to a chrome finish. Since I could not find the same center stanchions for the grab rails, I ordered the SS ones with two mounting holes placing it facing backwards instead of forward - don't stone me - lol. I through bolted them with SS machine screws.
Since I could not buy the same angled, telescoping anchor light, I ordered a Perko chrome bezel angled light assembly that had a plug-in type base. I simply cut off the bottom of the pole with a tube cutter and spliced wires to the existing wires running down the pole - thankfully, the wires had plenty of length inside the pole to splice to them. I used my old telescoping base that polished up great. Here are a few pictures I took today. Bill

Ghost
12-05-2008, 07:26 PM
Looks sharp!

Conquistador_del_mar
02-02-2009, 10:51 AM
I am still waiting for my upholstery man to finish the seats for the Donzi 18. They will be old school tuck and roll with mostly white, 2 red stripes which will carry over to the back seat, and red piping at the outside perimeter. Yesterday, I finally decided to fill the boat with 93 octane and Stabil. There must be an air pocket at the front of the tank since it only took 23.7 gallons. I was able to calibrate the fuel gauge "full" setting since I installed a Centroid tank sender. http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CENCGF-12&Category_Code=centroid. It sure added some fun when a man came up to compliment the boat with a slap on the back on its debut outing down the street. :)
When I installed a Nordskog GPS speedometer, I had to mount the pickup puck with the correct side facing up. I didn't want it to be visible, so I mounted it under the bow deck where there is no balsa core (in the center) using two part epoxy. Has anyone had experience with doing this? Can I expect the GPS to work? Bill

BigGrizzly
02-02-2009, 10:57 AM
C delMar, I mounted my GPS sender ybder the dash on a ton of wires and fueses and it works fine. It should not be a problem.

Conquistador_del_mar
02-02-2009, 11:10 AM
C delMar, I mounted my GPS sender under the dash on a ton of wires and fuses and it works fine. It should not be a problem.

Thanks, Randy. I figured it probably should since there will not really be any more interference than if it was mounted under a car windshield - and those GPS systems have no problems. Bill

Christian
02-04-2009, 06:20 PM
Christian,
Have you seen a scoop like mine? I have never seen another one like it, but it was a factory installed scoop from 1971. I have wondered how many LT1 (350CID/350HP) Chris Craft marinized engine packages were installed in 18' Donzis back in the late 60s and early 70s. Could you show some of your scoops? Bill

hi bill, sorry to take so long been away from donzinet
may be quicker to see if poodle can snap a photo
as i have a carbon fiber scoop in the mold and not sure a picture will do that justice, plus i will be away from the shop for 2-3 weeks on business!

hey scott can you post a picture?

All the best
C
if you need me call me
856-904-1961

gcarter
02-04-2009, 06:45 PM
Bill;
You're so close, I keep expecting you to post that it's finished and ready to go.
I'm waiting to see it in the water.:yes:

HOWARD O
02-04-2009, 08:42 PM
I have just read this thread from start to finish, you've really done your old boat proud. It's such an inspiration to all of us that have a boat to restore. Everything was done beautifully and just as important I think, tastefully too.

I think this photo is going to become my desktop wallpaper for a while.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40996&d=1228525586

I think I stared at that deck for a good 15 minutes tonight. Anybody that appreciates a beautiful paint job will know what I mean. You don't even have to see any color......know what I mean?

Great job and sincere congratulations, hope to admire it in person one day! :yes:

Lenny
02-04-2009, 09:40 PM
There must be an air pocket at the front of the tank since it only took 23.7 gallons. I was able to calibrate the fuel gauge "full" setting since I installed a Centroid tank sender.


Today, I decided to tackle the fuel tank integrity, etc. After blocking the passages, I applied a small pressure to the tank to make sure it was not leaking in case I might have to repair/replace the tank. It did not leak, but it had quite a bit of debris in it after the 37 years. I pulled the outlet pickup and sending unit. The pickup was a little short since I had modified it for a friend who used to own it years ago - it was picking up debris so I shortened it a little. I then vacuumed the bottom of the tank through the sending unit hole with a hose that I taped onto my wet dry vacuum. It had no fumes and was dry so it was not a dangerous situation. I emptied the vacuum to see what debris had accumulated over the 37 years. That pile of stuff in the picture is about 1/2" tall. After checking the sending unit with a VOM ohmeter, I will be replacing it. The tank is now completely clean as I looked with a mirror. I soldered on a new pickup with no screen since I have a good inline filter/water separator. The new pickup is about 3/8" off the bottom and I flared the end a little before installing it. I was surprised at how good the interior of the tank looked after so many years - no rust or scale deposits on the interior surface.
In another picture is a view of the fuel tank bulkhead from the back of the storage bin area. I was pleased to find access holes in the stringers for accessing the nuts on the bottom of the seat block machine screws. Removing the seat blocks was simple. Bill

Bill, I think you have the US 25 gallon tank from the early 70's and before. Like in my '74 X-18. I have a new RDS 40G for "something" :D

I do not think you have an "air lock" . Keep the motor small or boat where there are lots of gas stations. ;) Been there, been towed, done that...

Conquistador_del_mar
02-05-2009, 01:00 AM
hi bill, sorry to take so long been away from donzinet
may be quicker to see if poodle can snap a photo
as i have a carbon fiber scoop in the mold and not sure a picture will do that justice, plus i will be away from the shop for 2-3 weeks on business!

hey scott can you post a picture?

All the best
C
if you need me call me
856-904-1961

I hope to see if you have one like my 1971 came with. I have never seen another like it. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
02-05-2009, 01:07 AM
Bill;
You're so close, I keep expecting you to post that it's finished and ready to go.
I'm waiting to see it in the water.:yes:

George,
I am frustrated with my upholstery man beyond words. He needed $500 to get his electricity turned back on, so I fronted him that extra money which then took the incentive out of his getting on my job. I even told him at the time that I normally don't do business that way, but he assured me that it would be his priority. At least he has cut the 3" red and white pieces to do the job, but it still sits as he completes other quick money jobs. 4 1/2 months later, I am still waiting. So much for saving money with him - lol. I will show the boat as soon as it is done. Bill

Lenny
02-05-2009, 01:09 AM
On a side note, Christian, are you still Marketing Michaels' photos of Dons' boats ???

Interested... in buying

highlnd@telus.net

Lenny :)

Conquistador_del_mar
02-05-2009, 01:21 AM
I have just read this thread from start to finish, you've really done your old boat proud. It's such an inspiration to all of us that have a boat to restore. Everything was done beautifully and just as important I think, tastefully too.

I think this photo is going to become my desktop wallpaper for a while.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40996&d=1228525586

I think I stared at that deck for a good 15 minutes tonight. Anybody that appreciates a beautiful paint job will know what I mean. You don't even have to see any color......know what I mean?

Great job and sincere congratulations, hope to admire it in person one day! :yes:

Howard,
Thank you so much for the compliment. I am glad you like what I have done with it even though it is not all original. I did try to bring together the original aspects with some newer technology appointments mostly in the dash layout which I really like. There can't be too many older boats with the Volvo speedmaster e drives, which I also think is cool. Thanks also for the paint compliment. It did turn out very well after quite a few hours of prep work. It means a lot to me to bring old things back to life - especially this boat that I enjoyed so much back in the 70s - lots of memories! I can remember the first day I saw it in 1973 like it was yesterday. It won't be long before I can take it out - :wink: Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
02-05-2009, 01:30 AM
Bill, I think you have the US 25 gallon tank from the early 70's and before. Like in my '74 X-18. I have a new RDS 40G for "something" :D

I do not think you have an "air lock" . Keep the motor small or boat where there are lots of gas stations. ;) Been there, been towed, done that...

Lenny,
Yep, it is the 25 gallon tank so I was surprised that it took 1.3 gallons less than the capacity since it was completely empty when I filled it. It might seem hard to believe, but I only remember running out of gas once in the 1600+ hours of use I originally put on it. The original 350HP CC engine used the gas, too. I remember days when I had to refill it twice after starting with a full tank. Bill

The Hedgehog
02-05-2009, 01:53 AM
hi bill, sorry to take so long been away from donzinet
may be quicker to see if poodle can snap a photo
as i have a carbon fiber scoop in the mold and not sure a picture will do that justice, plus i will be away from the shop for 2-3 weeks on business!
hey scott can you post a picture?
All the best
C
if you need me call me
856-904-1961

I would love to see a pic of the scoop as well

Christian
02-05-2009, 07:43 AM
I would love to see a pic of the scoop as well


Hi Lenny, et al.

I will see what i can do about taking some pictures. Scott is prob busy with the miami boat show as it is this time of year. The scoop is from Chris Allard's 18 from the 1970s so the design is of that era. Once i take some pictures id be happy to provide whoever wants one with a scoop!

Pictures...not sure, I should ask Micheal and Charlie whats happening with those as i have been very busy with work and school. I do know that we wanted to provide them, however when we tried to market them there wasnt that much interest. If people could mail me i could put together a list. i do know however that we would not be looking and searching for specific boats but have a certain number of "X" boat and offer those. sorry to type this info here i really enjoy looking at Bills 18 resto which looks really great!

Best to all
C
cdelcollo@gmail.com
856-904-1961
215-510-8007

BigGrizzly
02-05-2009, 09:20 AM
C Delmar, Well you did fire me up- I went out pulled the engine and now I am putting new blower piping on the engine. My old model procharger is functional but not nice. I have polished the box top and inter cooler( really bad castings) but they are 10 footers only but better than the old black paint.
Now for some shiney pipe instead of hose. At this point we are deciding if we should put the 140+ HP we took out back in the engine. I normally don't overkill.

Conquistador_del_mar
02-06-2009, 01:21 AM
C Delmar, Well you did fire me up- I went out pulled the engine and now I am putting new blower piping on the engine. My old model procharger is functional but not nice. I have polished the box top and inter cooler( really bad castings) but they are 10 footers only but better than the old black paint.
Now for some shiney pipe instead of hose. At this point we are deciding if we should put the 140+ HP we took out back in the engine. I normally don't overkill.

:thumbsup:
I'm glad to hear you got fired up! Your Corsican looks great in the avatar picture. Is that the boat that you would like to refinish some day?
On another note, one of the members here (TXDONZI) recently sent me an email about the cam driven Magnaflow pump on my engine being possibly mounted backwards for the engine rotation - he was right! I am thankful he caught my mistake. I decided to turn the pump around and pull from the other side (port) so I pulled the old clamshell pickup that I first installed in 1975 and drilled a 1 5/8" hole on the port side today and filled the old hole on the STB side. I didn't want a transom mounted pickup so I reused the clamshell pickup which has always worked great. After reading about some of the hull problems on some of the newer Donzis, I now see why this old 1971 has held up so well. The holes which are about 6" forward of the transom and about 3" outside the stringers, reveal that both sides are a little over 3/4" thick solid fiberglass at those points. No wonder it has taken such pounding without a problem over all these years. The new location for the pickup will be on the driver's side now which I like a little better, too. This was actually a very easy fix. Onwards, Bill

BigGrizzly
02-06-2009, 08:39 AM
Bill,thanks for the compliment. It looks better in pictures. I use Leverage on it. The Corsican I painted more then 10 years ago, picture was a year or two ago. It is Interlux two part poly. That stuff is as hard as the original Immeron. As to your question It is the other boat I want to pretty up. Boy I would love to sit down with you for a couple of days, hours would be too short.

Conquistador_del_mar
02-06-2009, 10:44 AM
Bill,thanks for the compliment. It looks better in pictures. I use Leverage on it. The Corsican I painted more then 10 years ago, picture was a year or two ago. It is Interlux two part poly. That stuff is as hard as the original Immeron. As to your question It is the other boat I want to pretty up. Boy I would love to sit down with you for a couple of days, hours would be too short.

It won't be long before I am going to be starting on my 27' Magnum sport restoration. You are welcome to come over for a visit. We could do some prep work and shoot some Imron on some troublesome areas so you could get more comfortable with the processes. Bill

BigGrizzly
02-06-2009, 04:59 PM
Bill this could happen, but probably more BS then imron'

Christian
02-07-2009, 11:40 AM
Thanks Scott! your pump means alot!

I wounder if any owners would be interested in not only the OEM syle color (white) but a light red or blue granite coat and metal flake job, kinda like a rabco finish on their scoops. It would take some getting used to but will look killer. We make pools and pieces of fiberglass for skate boards in this fashion.

If anyone needs fiberglass help with their classics id be happy to chat.

C

Christian
02-07-2009, 02:54 PM
Thank you Scott for the picture post

IF people want them please call or e mail me

Cdelcollo@gmail.com
856-904-1961
215-510-8007

Chris

Conquistador_del_mar
02-07-2009, 06:58 PM
It was 73 degrees here today, so I decided to fire up the new Donzi engine (330HP Vortec) on the hose and check everything out. It couldn't have gone much better - :wink: All the gauges worked perfectly along with the charging system, engine, and speedmaster drive shifting. I had to replace the Magnaflow o-ring gasket after it leaked a little, and I will have to replace the brand new exhaust flappers in the new trumpet tips after they both broke - :nilly: Other than that, it is ready for the lake if my upholstery man will ever finish. It sure was nice getting to hear it run after all the work I have done restoring it. Yippee! Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
02-28-2009, 07:08 PM
This afternoon, I had to move the Donzi outside so I could do an oil change on my truck. I thought I would take a few pictures of it as it waits for the upholstery. I think it turned out very nice, but the upholstery will really set it off. Check out the shadow of the speedmaster drive - I thought that was pretty cool, but unintentional. Gorgeous day here, but cold. Bill

Just Say N20
02-28-2009, 07:22 PM
Absolutely gorgeous! :yes: :eek:

gcarter
02-28-2009, 07:36 PM
Lookin' good Bill!:yes:

Where oh Where is that upholstery??? :frown:

superhatz
02-28-2009, 10:31 PM
Top notch Bill....can't wait to see the Magnum!

Conquistador_del_mar
02-28-2009, 10:35 PM
Thanks, guys. I am still hopeful that my older ex-hippy upholstery man will come through soon, but I have quit crossing my fingers and am biting my lip. I will show it when done - hopefully a video on YouTube as well. I restored the boat in less time than he has had to do the upholstery - ouch!

2donzi2
02-28-2009, 11:01 PM
Looks really good Bill. Can't wait to see the interior.

bobwpe
03-01-2009, 07:35 AM
That looks really great Bill. The dash came out really nice. What is the guage to the right of the panel?
Your'e doing a 1st class job and it's gonna look like a brand new boat when you put the interior in.

Conquistador_del_mar
03-01-2009, 09:35 AM
That looks really great Bill. The dash came out really nice. What is the guage to the right of the panel?
Your'e doing a 1st class job and it's gonna look like a brand new boat when you put the interior in.

Thanks, Bob.
That gauge is a Nordskog GPS speedometer with recall. I had a tough time deciding if I really cared enough about a speedometer to cut a hole in that side of the dash or where to install one. Since I was modifying the dash in my restoration - trying to keep much of the original look along with upgrading, I finally made the decision that it was important so I compromised the original dash layout with its addition. The gauge to the left of the steering is a depth gauge. I stayed with all black faced gauges like the original Stewart Warners and a monochrome look with nothing but black, white, and silver. Yep, the interior should complete the look. I might change the Covico steering wheel to black, but I want to see it with the interior first. How is your restoration progressing? Bill

LeadSledMerc
03-01-2009, 10:03 AM
Your boat looks awesome, you've done a beautiful job.
I just recently picked up a '70 18' 2+3 and your thread has given me lots of info on your restoration. You've given me a high bar to reach for.
I can't wait to see it with the interior.
Stupid question, but where did you get the white steering wheel from? I've looked all over and can't find a 3 bar spoked white wheel like that.
Thanks, Keith

HOWARD O
03-01-2009, 10:03 AM
When I finally get around to restoring this 22, I hope I can find someone with half your talent to paint it. I love everything you've done with this boat, but the depth of the paint really just knocks me out. :yes:

That is some fine Donzi boat! :cool:

BigGrizzly
03-01-2009, 10:46 AM
There is just nothing less to say it id beautiful.

bobwpe
03-01-2009, 10:56 AM
How is your restoration progressing? Bill

Mine is pretty much done. Should go in the water this week. Will post some pics soon. BTW, the pics of your past boats are quite impressive!

Bob

Conquistador_del_mar
03-01-2009, 11:06 AM
Your boat looks awesome, you've done a beautiful job.
I just recently picked up a '70 18' 2+3 and your thread has given me lots of info on your restoration. You've given me a high bar to reach for.
I can't wait to see it with the interior.
Stupid question, but where did you get the white steering wheel from? I've looked all over and can't find a 3 bar spoked white wheel like that.
Thanks, Keith

Keith,
Thanks and you are welcome. I just corrected my previous post stating that the steering wheel was a Covici - it is a Covico. Here is a link to where I bought mine. By the way, if you wait, there is a possibility that I might change mine to black, but don't count on it if you want one now. They are very nicely made, and the hard rubber grip really grips well in your hand. It is not a spongy foam as you might expect. Bill

http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=covico3bolt


When I finally get around to restoring this 22, I hope I can find someone with half your talent to paint it. I love everything you've done with this boat, but the depth of the paint really just knocks me out. :yes:

That is some fine Donzi boat! :cool:

Thanks, Howard. From what I have heard, the paint jobs with polyurethane enamels are now getting out of sight in terms of price. If you can do it yourself, you can do it for less than $1000 in materials. I would like to see your progress. Bill

knots2u
03-01-2009, 12:37 PM
I wish I had the ability to make one more interior, this is the boat I would want my last one to go in. Are you using the original wood frame buckets or the fiberglass shell type? Please tell me you didn't glue that carpet down! You mentioned something about 3" strips of vinyl????




Bob

Conquistador_del_mar
03-01-2009, 01:07 PM
I wish I had the ability to make one more interior, this is the boat I would want my last one to go in. Are you using the original wood frame buckets or the fiberglass shell type? Tell me you didn't glue that carpet down! You mentioned something about 3" strips of vinyl????
Bob

Bob,
Now that is really a compliment coming from Mr. Bilt Rite himself!
I would be lying if I said the carpet was not glued down. Years ago in the 70s after many friends and I slipped on the gelcoated floor, I installed carpet and did it again in my restoration. The seats are the fiberglassed shell type with wooden bottoms. The man who is going to upholster them has cut the strips for "old school" tuck and roll. They will be mostly white with two red stripes set two rolls apart and red piping around. The back seat will also carry the red stripes in line with the front seats. I don't know if I am using the correct terminologies here, but that is the concept I am trying to employ. If you were still making them, you would have delivered them months ago. You always made perfect seats for the boats when I ordered from you back in the 80s - I believe you made at least 3 sets for me for various boats and the prices were reasonable. Thanks again, Bill

The Hedgehog
03-01-2009, 01:23 PM
Great execution on your project. Really nice. I would love to see in in person some time.

Another Bill

osur866
03-01-2009, 01:45 PM
Very nice you should be proud of this project!! :cool!:

Speed Racer
03-01-2009, 02:15 PM
My Goodness Bill..the boat is so beautiful! Congratulations! Just amazing looking..!!! And you are farther along than me!! I need to get the deck back on the V-drive!!

On another note, I really like all of the boats in your gallery featured on the front page. You are truly an expert, who only settles for doing the best thing!

Again, Nice work! You are an inspiration to me when things on my restoration are not going as smoothly as I would like!

Garry...
IT RUNS!
Steering, throttle, shift and Rudder this weekend!

Conquistador_del_mar
03-01-2009, 05:19 PM
Great execution on your project. Really nice. I would love to see in in person some time.

Another Bill


Very nice you should be proud of this project!! :cool!:

Thanks, guys!


My Goodness Bill..the boat is so beautiful! Congratulations! Just amazing looking..!!! And you are farther along than me!! I need to get the deck back on the V-drive!!

On another note, I really like all of the boats in your gallery featured on the front page. You are truly an expert, who only settles for doing the best thing!

Again, Nice work! You are an inspiration to me when things on my restoration are not going as smoothly as I would like!

Garry...
IT RUNS!
Steering, throttle, shift and Rudder this weekend!

Thanks, Garry. I guess my passion continues to this day as I am about to start on a Magnum 27 sport which needs everything. I just can't keep near the pace that I used to be able to run. I really look forward to seeing yours completed. So weird that we met because of a Craigslist ad I had run. It sounds like you are almost there now. Pictures? Bill

farmer tx
03-01-2009, 08:22 PM
Bill or Bob, Do either of you know where to get the fiberglassed seat shell for the barrel bucket seats in the 22 C's. Bill, the boat looks really, really nice. Great job.

Thanks,
Mark

Speed Racer
03-01-2009, 11:38 PM
I know.. MUST love Craigslist.. It has quickly become an American institution, and has connected so many people!
The 'awakening' went really well. The thing started right up, and ran well. I did have a couple of issues.. Cooling system is ill-designed, and needs to be upgraded or improved.. Ugh.. It might be just pulling the thermostat.. or??
Too much raw water pump, funky control of temperature.. Just bad design.

I really do not have any new great photos. The engine is in the thing, it runs great, and I now need to stick the deck back on and finish rigging..But I promise, as soon as I can, photos..

First, a week off at the Heineken Regatta in St. Maarten..Lots slower, but really good beer, wind, and sunshine!
2 weeks from now, Deck!

Again, you have been a great help, inspiration, and cheerleader. I wish it were not such a long tow from Seattle to Texas.

Any thoughts on meeting in Arizona? Was'nt there some talk on this board a while back about that??

Conquistador_del_mar
03-02-2009, 10:48 AM
Bill or Bob, Do either of you know where to get the fiberglassed seat shell for the barrel bucket seats in the 22 C's. Bill, the boat looks really, really nice. Great job.

Thanks,
Mark

Mark,
Someone mentioned a company that made "rotoshell" seats that sounded like the ticket, but I can't remember the exact name or much else about the post. You might try PMing Bob (Knots2U) if he does not see your post. I believe he knows about them. Sorry that my memory has faded. As my fiance says - "the mind is a terrible thing" - lol. Bill


I know.. MUST love Craigslist.. It has quickly become an American institution, and has connected so many people!
The 'awakening' went really well. The thing started right up, and ran well. I did have a couple of issues.. Cooling system is ill-designed, and needs to be upgraded or improved.. Ugh.. It might be just pulling the thermostat.. or??
Too much raw water pump, funky control of temperature.. Just bad design.

I really do not have any new great photos. The engine is in the thing, it runs great, and I now need to stick the deck back on and finish rigging..But I promise, as soon as I can, photos..

First, a week off at the Heineken Regatta in St. Maarten..Lots slower, but really good beer, wind, and sunshine!
2 weeks from now, Deck!

Again, you have been a great help, inspiration, and cheerleader. I wish it were not such a long tow from Seattle to Texas.

Any thoughts on meeting in Arizona? Was'nt there some talk on this board a while back about that??

Garry,
No chance the thermostat was installed backwards? Kind of a bummer that you might have to redesign the system. I will hope it is something overlooked or simple to fix.
Yep, I use Craigslist frequently since it is local stuff that makes pickup an option.
I think there is a Donzi outing at Lake Powell. I would like to get with you and some of the other guys here at some point. The only group boating I have ever done was when I was a member of the Antique Boat club in Dallas in the early 80s, and it was a lot of fun. We once had about 20 antiques meet at a small lake in Oklahoma that was a ball. We all followed each other for about a 10 mile cruise after a showing at the marina - I have a feeling that the Donzi guys here would set a different pace than we did that day - lol. Bill

farmer tx
03-02-2009, 08:46 PM
I have a feeling that the Donzi guys here would set a different pace than we did that day - lol. Bill


Bill, The pace at Powell is directly related to the price of fuel.:drive:

Christian
03-03-2009, 09:28 AM
Very nice! where did you find the scoop that is on the boat? Looks great also looks a bit larger then the ones i make. They would look good on the sutphen!

CDC

Conquistador_del_mar
03-03-2009, 11:00 PM
Very nice! where did you find the scoop that is on the boat? Looks great also looks a bit larger then the ones i make. They would look good on the sutphen!

CDC

Christian,
The scoop on my 1971 came from the factory like it is shown. It was not added later. The boat needed a scoop due to the high rise manifold and carburetor on the original LT1 350CID/350HP mechanical lift GM engine marinized by Chris Craft. I have yet to see another Donzi with the same scoop, but it is original. Bill

Just Say N20
03-04-2009, 05:29 AM
You might also notice a modification I did years ago on the floor storage bin lid. I cut it where you can see the hinges so that I could easily open it without having to take off the entire lid for access. Bill

Amazing. I did the exact same thing on my 1976 X-18. I have never seen another one "corrected" until I saw yours. I saw what I thought were hinges in the first set of pictures you posted, and then again in the closer picture of the c**kpit.

I never understood what they were thinking with the original design. It is about as inconvenient as possible.

Christian
03-04-2009, 08:44 AM
thanks, those scoops are from cigarette (28 SS) after some research yesterday i found one.

Conquistador_del_mar
03-04-2009, 09:54 AM
Amazing. I did the exact same thing on my 1976 X-18. I have never seen another one "corrected" until I saw yours. I saw what I thought were hinges in the first set of pictures you posted, and then again in the closer picture of the c**kpit.

I never understood what they were thinking with the original design. It is about as inconvenient as possible.

Yep, since I was always using the storage bin, I decided to make it easier to use. It was definitely a modification to make it more accessable. You are the only person I have heard who also did the mod. Ironically, when doing my restoration, I realized that the lid was not following the slight floor contours so I reglassed it to match the slight arch in the floor. I also installed some rubber strips to bring it up to the floor level and keep it from vibrating. I might modify it back later. Bill



thanks, those scoops are from cigarette (28 SS) after some research yesterday i found one.

Cool. I am glad to hear where they apparently came from. I sure wish I had restored the Cig 28SS that I once bought and sold. How did you find one? Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
03-07-2009, 12:08 AM
It dawned on me that I had not addressed the tonneau cover which I will be using occasionally. I pulled out the old original tonneau cover which is 38 years old now. Besides a few repair stitchings over the years, it was in remarkably good shape. The vinyl with cloth backing is a very heavy material that apparently was made to last. It was absolutely filthy with yellowing and stains so I cleaned it first with prep solve that I use before painting to both clean it and get any residual oil or grease off of the surface, then I stretched it to fit the snaps after laying a sheet of masking plastic over the entire deck - snapping it over the plastic. It took 4 - 12oz cans of white vinyl spray dye and one of the red to completely cover it to a like new appearance. I sprayed the white first and then masked off for the red, followed by a heavy coat of F21 protectant. I thought it turned out much better than I would have imagined. Do the newer covers also have the zippered front section to uncover only the driver seat? I always thought that was a great idea. Bill

2donzi2
03-08-2009, 06:21 PM
It dawned on me that I had not addressed the tonneau cover which I will be using occasionally. I pulled out the old original tonneau cover which is 38 years old now. Besides a few repair stitchings over the years, it was in remarkably good shape. The vinyl with cloth backing is a very heavy material that apparently was made to last. It was absolutely filthy with yellowing and stains so I cleaned it first with prep solve that I use before painting to both clean it and get any residual oil or grease off of the surface, then I stretched it to fit the snaps after laying a sheet of masking plastic over the entire deck - snapping it over the plastic. It took 4 - 12oz cans of white vinyl spray dye and one of the red to completely cover it to a like new appearance. I sprayed the white first and then masked off for the red, followed by a heavy coat of F21 protectant. I thought it turned out much better than I would have imagined. Do the newer covers also have the zippered front section to uncover only the driver seat? I always thought that was a great idea. Bill

Bill,

Cover looks great from what I see. I have the same cover on my hornet, white with blue stripe, original in nice condition, just dirty looking. Bleached it and cleaned but still looks dirty. What is the product you used and are there any special pointers before, during and after the process? Does it still feel soft or does it feel like a painted surface? Congradulations on the marriage and the boat looks awesome. Post some pictures in the water if you get some. Would love to see it. Thanks, Mike

2donzi2
03-08-2009, 06:29 PM
Pics..

When I redo the X I am going to use this. Mine has a cutout, and sometimes when I drop off plane quick (lookout, no wake zone :eek: ) I get some water on the engine. This one is the twin to mine, less the cutout..

Anyone have any information on where to get this scoop? I'll take either one to glass in or one that screws on. Is this the scoop that Christian makes? Thanks, Mike

Conquistador_del_mar
03-08-2009, 08:26 PM
Bill,

Cover looks great from what I see. I have the same cover on my hornet, white with blue stripe, original in nice condition, just dirty looking. Bleached it and cleaned but still looks dirty. What is the product you used and are there any special pointers before, during and after the process? Does it still feel soft or does it feel like a painted surface? Congradulations on the marriage and the boat looks awesome. Post some pictures in the water if you get some. Would love to see it. Thanks, Mike

Mike,
Be sure to use a prep solve product like you can find at a paint supply store before spray dying the vinyl or it might create fisheyes. Lacquer thinner or other solvents will be too strong. I used SEM vinyl spray dye, but there are many out there. Don't use paint or any other product. Spray dye is as flexible and lasting as the original vinyl - almost. Yes, it feels soft. Thanks for the marriage and boat pats on the back. Yes, I will post some water pictures and hopefully a YouTube video now that I know how to do it. Bill

BigGrizzly
03-09-2009, 07:26 AM
I used that dye on my old van when I changed the green to blue interior. The arm rest on the driver side lasted 10 years. I always drove with my arm on it. Trust me it had big time miles on it. Worked great. If you have trouble finding it Eastwood sells it too. I think most brands are very similar in use and durability.

Conquistador_del_mar
02-09-2010, 12:36 PM
I am still hopeful that my older ex-hippy upholstery man will come through soon, but I have quit crossing my fingers and am biting my lip. I will show it when done - hopefully a video on YouTube as well. I restored the boat in less time than he has had to do the upholstery - ouch!

Well, after an unbelievable number of excuses and false promises from the ex-hippy upholstery man, I had to eat the $650 I had prepaid to him and find someone else to complete the upholstery work. My new man came through with the front seats yesterday and we made a pattern for the rear seats - all old school tuck and roll with red racing stripes in the mostly white seats with red piping. I will take the boat over to him after he has mocked up the bulk of the work for final stitching and fitting of the rear seats. Yep, way over a year and $650 wasted, but I am now on the home stretch. I will show some pictures soon. Unfortunately, I am again sidetracked after blowing up the 450HP 383 stroked engine in my 1980 Corvette on Saturday after redlining it. Bill

OFFSHORE GINGER
02-09-2010, 12:49 PM
Well, after an unbelievable number of excuses and false promises from the ex-hippy upholstery man, I had to eat the $650 I had prepaid to him and find someone else to complete the upholstery work. My new man came through with the front seats yesterday and we made a pattern for the rear seats - all old school tuck and roll with red racing stripes in the mostly white seats with red piping. I will take the boat over to him after he has mocked up the bulk of the work for final stitching and fitting of the rear seats. Yep, way over a year and $650 wasted, but I am now on the home stretch. I will show some pictures soon. Unfortunately, I am again sidetracked after blowing up the 450HP 383 stroked engine in my 1980 Corvette on Saturday after redlining it. BillBill sorry to hear about the hippy upholstery man & i have had that same problem in the past and just curious what's the deal with redlining the motor in the Vette ?

Conquistador_del_mar
02-09-2010, 01:00 PM
Bill sorry to hear about the hippy upholstery man & i have had that same problem in the past and just curious what's the deal with redlining the motor in the Vette ?

I don't have a rev limiter on the Vette engine and it shifts at a pretty high RPM into second so I think it might only be a blown head gasket, but antifreeze water is pouring out the left sidepipe now. I will be pulling the top end off the motor this afternoon. It has awesome acceleration - at least up until now. I was taking a good friend out for a demonstration when it let go on Saturday. Bill

silverghost
02-09-2010, 01:05 PM
Bill: I would file a claim in your local Small Claims Court or District Court to get your $650. back fom the Hippy guy who did not come through with your work & took your money! It would only cost you a small fee which you should also get back from the judge.
I took a Chevy Dealer and a Midas Muffler guy and always got my money back!
The chevy dealer had to pay $1600. & the muffler guy $600..
Only an hour or less of our time involved!
Don't let this con artist win and steal YOUR money !
Take him to court !
You would be surprised how fast these gusys come-up with your money after you file !.
The Better Business Bureau is also a good option !
BRAD

Conquistador_del_mar
02-09-2010, 07:34 PM
Bill: I would file a claim in your local Small Claims Court or District Court to get your $650. back fom the Hippy guy who did not come through with your work & took your money! It would only cost you a small fee which you should also get back from the judge.
I took a Chevy Dealer and a Midas Muffler guy and always got my money back!
The chevy dealer had to pay $1600. & the muffler guy $600..
Only an hour or less of our time involved!
Don't let this con artist win and steal YOUR money !
Take him to court !
You would be surprised how fast these gusys come-up with your money after you file !.
The Better Business Bureau is also a good option !
BRAD

Brad,
Under most any other circumstances, I would have done as you suggested. This guy doesn't have two nickels to rub together and the best I would get is a judgment for the money. I also debated filing theft charges against him with the local police department. After reading in the paper that his daughter died of brain cancer, I weighed it all and decided to just let it go. I was too upset over the whole ordeal anyway - it was eating a hole in my soul if you know what I mean. I was losing more than just the money after a period of time. Moving on with a smile. Thanks though, Bill

CHACHI
02-10-2010, 03:43 PM
Bill, it is a bad situation the "hippie" placed you in.

Glad to see you have chosen the high road.

Ken

Walt. H.
02-10-2010, 04:26 PM
I don't have a rev limiter on the Vette engine and it shifts at a pretty high RPM into second so I think it might only be a blown head gasket, but antifreeze water is pouring out the left sidepipe now. I will be pulling the top end off the motor this afternoon. It has awesome acceleration - at least up until now. I was taking a good friend out for a demonstration when it let go on Saturday. Bill
Sounds more like you floated a valve and swallowed it and the piston nailed it thru and into your cylinder head sideways, i've done the same with my 68' open chamber alum head BBC Vette w/o out a rev limiter back in the day also shifting second gear when only pussies used rev limiters back in the early 70's.
Being mucho costs money. :bonk:

NJFASTECH
02-10-2010, 09:47 PM
Bill, it is a bad situation the "hippie" placed you in.

Glad to see you have chosen the high road.

Ken

That is the high road for sure!
Maybe if he is not a drunk or a drugie you could work with him buy the material and let him redeem himself? It sounds like he hit a rough patch.

Conquistador_del_mar
02-10-2010, 09:59 PM
That is the high road for sure!
Maybe if he is not a drunk or a drugie you could work with him buy the material and let him redeem himself? It sounds like he hit a rough patch.

The first $150 was for materials and the next $500 was for him to get his electricity turned back on. It went downhill from there with lies and empty promises . The final straw was when my wife dropped by to see if there was any progress and the discussion ended with his threatening her with a "45" that he claimed he was going to get in his shop. I got my seats back that very afternoon with nothing having been done over the year and a few months. I just wanted him out of my life, so no hope of redemption on his part. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
02-10-2010, 10:01 PM
Sounds more like you floated a valve and swallowed it and the piston nailed it thru and into your cylinder head sideways, i've done the same with my 68' open chamber alum head BBC Vette w/o out a rev limiter back in the day also shifting second gear when only pussies used rev limiters back in the early 70's.
Being mucho costs money. :bonk:

I should know tomorrow after I pull the heads. Too busy doing a nature tour today. Bill

OFFSHORE GINGER
02-10-2010, 10:25 PM
I should know tomorrow after I pull the heads. Too busy doing a nature tour today. Bill Bill a nature tour ?:lol9::fam::idea: are you going green ?:bonk::nilly::confused:

Conquistador_del_mar
02-11-2010, 12:06 AM
Bill a nature tour ?:lol9::fam::idea: are you going green ?:bonk::nilly::confused:

Yep, I have always loved the outdoors. We go to our local Hagerman National Wildlife Refuge with binoculars and a video camcorder. If I get a chance, I will post a Youtube video of a few good shots I recently made of the snow geese that migrate through here along with some other ducks, geese, birds, and deer. Today's highlight was some close encounters with deer (50') and great blue herons catching small fish while wading. I used to make up to 6 weeks canoe trips in remote areas of Canada to enjoy my green side, but now I do most of it in the comfort of a Land Cruiser. My hunting days are over - I now "shoot" using cameras - lol. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
02-11-2010, 06:52 PM
Sounds more like you floated a valve and swallowed it and the piston nailed it thru and into your cylinder head sideways, i've done the same with my 68' open chamber alum head BBC Vette w/o out a rev limiter back in the day also shifting second gear when only pussies used rev limiters back in the early 70's.
Being macho costs money. :bonk:

I pulled the driver side head this afternoon even though it has already snowed 6" here today - cold is my point. As it turns out, the #3 piston had part of the top edge fracture off and that cylinder now has a crack in it towards the #5 cylinder so the block is trash and will have to be pulled. The aluminum Edelbrock RPM head looks fine except a few dings from the part that broke off, but I will have it reworked while a new block is being worked. Such is the way of racing - lol. I actually have a backup 475HP 383, but I want to save it for another possible use. Onwards, Bill

Walt. H.
02-11-2010, 07:02 PM
Ouch! Sorry to here that, was it detonation that fracture the piston and I imagine you had cast rather then forged pistons in there?

Conquistador_del_mar
02-11-2010, 07:27 PM
Ouch! Sorry to here that, was it detonation that fracture the piston and I imagine you had cast rather then forged pistons in there?

Might have been from a little detonation. I really don't know if it was built with cast or forged pistons, but my guess is cast. I will be setting the timing back a little and making sure I have plenty of gas next time before romping on it. Bill

silverghost
02-12-2010, 10:38 AM
Bill: It's a shame the guy's daughter died ~
BUT
After hearing the 45 story I would drag his butt into court !
He STOLE from you .
He is a thief & con artist.
You were the good guy here .
He needs to learn a big lesson.
He will rip others off too.
If he has no money you can always have the sheriff execute the judgement and auction off some of his property for your 650 !
This may seem cold hearted~
BUT so was what he has done to you & your wife.
You tried to hlp him and ths was the thanks you got~ a 45 threat!
I no longer let people get away with anything .

Conquistador_del_mar
03-13-2010, 12:07 PM
In about an hour, I will be picking up my 1971 Donzi with the new upholstery that another man has completed after the first man never did the job. First he did the front seats to my relative satisfaction and has now completed the custom build and installation of the back seats. I will show some pictures after I get it all put together with the installation of the front seats. yippee! Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
03-20-2010, 12:01 AM
Just this afternoon, I finished installing the new custom stainless steel pedestal bases that I designed for the front seats which are fore and aft adjustable. I also installed a flush aluminum trim piece around the floor compartment. I was then able to mount the front seats after waiting for over a year. I really like the look instead of the solid red seats it originally came with - :yes:. My digital camera makes the stripes look crooked, but they are straight as rails - he did a good job. I am very pleased with the overall restoration and cant wait to take it out. I hope to make a youtube video of it in the lake soon. Bill

mrfixxall
03-20-2010, 12:22 AM
Just this afternoon, I finished installing the new custom stainless steel pedestal bases that I designed for the front seats which are fore and aft adjustable. I also installed a flush aluminum trim piece around the floor compartment. I was then able to mount the front seats after waiting for over a year. I really like the look instead of the solid red seats it originally came with - :yes:. My digital camera makes the stripes look crooked, but they are straight as rails - he did a good job. I am very pleased with the overall restoration and cant wait to take it out. I hope to make a youtube video of it in the lake soon. Bill


Looks great bill,as always nice job! :wink:

Walt. H.
03-20-2010, 01:17 AM
Great Looking Job Bill!
Love the color style and the stitch and seam work you have, it looks perfectly aligned and wriggle free I have to say.
Just compare my unhappy interior job I have w/new foam on my 86' CVX-18 carlson that cost me $2131.00 back in the winter of 01' that took 5-months, it has more wriggles and sags with misaligned seams then, Humm? I better not say.
ConGrat's

farmer tx
03-20-2010, 02:46 AM
No excuses now! Looks like you have to bring it to PK this year.:)

Greg Guimond
03-20-2010, 06:47 AM
Bill, boat looks fantastic. I really like the upholstery job. Btw, do you think the attached hull is an Aero? If so pls pm me. Nice work!

Sweet Cheekz
03-20-2010, 07:39 AM
Wow Bill You do really nice work! Love the interior, dash and the way you did the scoop
Well done
Parnell

Conquistador_del_mar
03-20-2010, 10:22 AM
Looks great bill,as always nice job! :wink:


Great Looking Job Bill!
Love the color style and the stitch and seam work you have, it looks perfectly aligned and wriggle free I have to say.
Just compare my unhappy interior job I have w/new foam on my 86' CVX-18 carlson that cost me $2131.00 back in the winter of 01' that took 5-months, it has more wriggles and sags with misaligned seams then, Humm? I better not say.
ConGrat's

Thanks, guys. Walt, it sounds like the upholstery man who did your seats was not familiar with doing the old school tuck and roll? By the time I had lost $650 to the first man and I had paid the second man, I had almost exactly that amount of money in this job. It sure seems to be getting harder to find people who do quality work now. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
03-20-2010, 10:27 AM
No excuses now! Looks like you have to bring it to PK this year.:)

Hi, Mark. How are your projects going?
Yep, I do hope to make it over to PK later this year. It sure took a long time to get this project completed to the point where I can take it out, but I am glad it is almost done. I do have to lift the boat and paint the bottom of the hull at some point and I would like to repaint the trailer, too. Take care, Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
03-20-2010, 10:29 AM
Bill, boat looks fantastic. I really like the upholstery job. Btw, do you think the attached hull is an Aero? If so pls pm me. Nice work!

Greg,
That boat does not appear to be a Magnum or Aero with the raised deck. Thanks. Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
03-20-2010, 10:36 AM
Wow Bill You do really nice work! Love the interior, dash and the way you did the scoop
Well done
Parnell

Hey, Parnell. Thanks for the compliments. I really think it turned out well, too. Would you believe that the scoop is just like it originally came with in 1971. I have come to the conclusion that Donzi had to put on the scoop to cover the hole in the hatch. It originally had the LT1 350/350HP engine with a higher intake manifold so the hole had to be there to clear the carburetor/breather.
Off to my nephew's wedding now. Bill

gcarter
03-20-2010, 12:56 PM
Well, congratulations on finally getting your upholstery done. It's a shame you had to go through so much to get it done.