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View Full Version : Help! 280 TRS Engine Removal Procedures



gpapich
05-09-2008, 10:25 AM
Hey guys,
Need some help. I found out the hard way what happens when you have rotten exhaust manifolds and they flood the engine prior to 6mo of storage. Boat was running fine in October following a f/w flush on the hose. Tried to start it a month ago when I moved and found the engine seized.
I need to pull the engine as I've already torn the heads off, cleaned out the sludge, used penetrating oil for a week or so inside the cylinder bores with a breaker bar on the crankshaft to try to rotate the engine. No joy.
Anyone have the procedures for yanking a 1976 Mercruiser 280 TRS engine and tranny assbly?
I need help. I'm trying to get the boat running again after I finally got the chance to buy a house with a covered RV pad for the boat. There's my girlfriend and her boys' summer at stake here...Help a Donzi brother out!
Thanks in advance!
George
Thanks

BERTRAM BOY
05-09-2008, 10:42 AM
Don't forget to remove the 6 .250" nuts on the tailshaft end of the MercTrans before you pull the engine.
You'll need to pull the drive first.

gpapich
05-09-2008, 11:23 AM
Don't forget to remove the 6 .250" nuts on the tailshaft end of the MercTrans before you pull the engine.
You'll need to pull the drive first.


Dumb question, but what is that component on the end of the tranny tailshaft. My understanding is that the engine is supported up front by the engine mounts and in the back by the transmission tailshaft resting inside the transom inner plate opening. The manual says that the gimble bearing function is done by the transmission tailshaft bearing.

I understand the two points of support, but how is the back of the engine/tranny assbly secured to the inner transom plate to make the third point of support?

BERTRAM BOY
05-09-2008, 11:31 AM
The transmission tailshaft housing slides into another housing. The six bolts expand a rubber grommet to keep the water out. When re-installing them DO NOT over tighten them. They are only 1/4 studs. They will break VERY easily. Use a 1/4 drive when tightening them. The part that I have the red line going to is the ruber ring.
So the answer to your question is basicly "friction".

BigGrizzly
05-09-2008, 07:27 PM
If this is a merc trans. The trans comes off just like a car , just unbolt the bell housing and slide it forward about 2 inches then up, don't forget to remove all trans cooler lines. In the Criterion I take the engine and trans out as a unit. Just pull it forward until the input shaft comes out and turn it side ways and then up and out. I also put mine back the same way without removing the lower unit. Just a little tricky lining ip the shaft but not bad.

gpapich
05-12-2008, 07:06 PM
Thanks all of you. I'm just starting a new sales job, so I need some commissions before I'm ready to start addressing the problem. I found a 400 SBC for about $500.00. That, some new heads, and Eddie Marine exhausts ought to put me in the high 60's, low 70's for speed. Take care. I'm going to go crawl back in my hole for awhile until I have the duckets to do this.

George