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View Full Version : Trim Switch Not Working - Merc Dual Controls



Ranman
04-21-2008, 12:13 PM
I found out yesterday that the trim switch for my starboard engine is not fully working. The switch works when using the "down" command, but does not work in the "Up" direction. The port switch works both ways.

By messing with the button, rapid movement, applying pressure in different ways, I got an occasional blip out of the "up" command, but no consistant operation.

I'm pretty sure the issue is in the handle switch and not the limit puck on the drive (not 100% though). does anyone know if this thumb switch is serviceable? I have the controls shown below.

Mr X
04-21-2008, 12:33 PM
Randy,
you should be able to pull the switch out and jump across the back to test it.

smoothie
04-21-2008, 12:54 PM
Theres also trim solenoids for up and down in the engine compartment.

Ranman
04-21-2008, 01:21 PM
Randy,
you should be able to pull the switch out and jump across the back to test it.


Ted,

Do you know the trick to getting the switch bezel off allowing you to pull the switch out?

BUIZILLA
04-21-2008, 01:53 PM
Randy, buy a new bezel and switch, your going to break the old bezel no matter how easy you try. While your there just replace both switches and the bezel..

don't ask me how I know that

Ranman
04-21-2008, 02:16 PM
Randy, buy a new bezel and switch, your going to break the old bezel no matter how easy you try. While your there just replace both switches and the bezel..
don't ask me how I know that


I was planning on doing exactly that. If you've changed them before, can you tell me if the switch is a simple plug and play once the bezel is removed or do I need to seriously disassemble the controls to get the wiring out and replace the switch? Inother words, where is the connection point, plug harness, whatever, for the switch?

BUIZILLA
04-21-2008, 02:32 PM
if I remember correct, the wiring runs down the control arm, thru the pivot point and connects under the base of the control itself.... it's busy in the pivot point theatre, and you MUST be carefull on re-assembly or the wires will pinch and shred.. Doller found that out for me...

Ranman
04-21-2008, 03:10 PM
Switch P/N 87 92484 I "think".. A better pic of throttle assy would help :)
Item 4 is switch. Note item 26, a power jumper cable..
Item 5 is the switch cover, P/N 19029 6 goes with that switch..

I think your part numbers are correct.

Is #26 power jumper cable a "testing tool"?

The switch #4 (87 92484) is about $30 and there are 2 of them. :eek!::eek!:

The switch cover #5 should be about $9

#6 is just a blank for use when no paddle switches are installed.

BUIZILLA
04-21-2008, 03:16 PM
I think #6 is the carrier that the switches sit in, and the switch cover snaps into that for retention

MOP
04-21-2008, 03:30 PM
Before you rip into that pain in the azz control, put a meter on the solenoid to make sure the problem is in fact in the handle. It is a ton easier to change a solenoid, finish trouble shooting it may save yo a lot of time and agrivation. You need to soot these from one end to the other, solenoids go bad more often then the control switches.

Phil

Ranman
04-21-2008, 06:07 PM
Before you rip into that pain in the azz control, put a meter on the solenoid to make sure the problem is in fact in the handle. It is a ton easier to change a solenoid, finish trouble shooting it may save yo a lot of time and agrivation. You need to soot these from one end to the other, solenoids go bad more often then the control switches.
Phil

Thanks for the heads up. I'm pretty sure it's the switch because if I f**k around with the switch enough, I can get little "blips" of movement out of the drive indicating that the solenoid is receiving an intermittent signal from the switch.

Jamesbon
04-21-2008, 07:01 PM
Can I tell you how many times I've experienced the same thing in these "saltwater" boats? Never mind...

Probably the switch... Doesn't the blue wire power the up side and green power the down side of the trim pump? Test at the trim pump to be sure.

Glad that my trim pump is mounted directly under the hatch drain hole on the port side of the 22. It's kinda cool, she catches all the saltwater drainage off the hatch right onto the wiring harness :bonk:

JimG
04-21-2008, 09:41 PM
Pull the connections, and douse the contacts with CRC 6-56 or equivilent. That usually takes care of the issue, I keep cans of that stuff everywhere, Twice a season, I hit every electrical connection with a squirt. Keeps the gremlins away.

BTW: We did this two weeks ago on the same switches on my buddy's '04 Formula 31PC. Probably the same part. He had already bought the switches...