18 Classic Keel

[Madcow]

I'm thinking about flipping my 18 over and sharpening the keel, any thoughts on that? What can I expect? How sharp should I make it? Anyone done this?

[BlownCrewCab]

Is it a pre 68 with a V keel? Or a post 68 with a rounded keel?

[Lenny]

It has been argued that the rounded keel boats run faster, handle better. I would not go to the trouble.

If I had a sharp keel boat I would consider the reverse mond you if ORIGINALITY was of no concern.

I believe Brownie once stated here, that when they did this it was a tried and true old "formula" of 1" of radius for each foot of boat. So in this case, you could assume that the bottom of the radius keel 18's is 18".

[Madcow]

Is it a pre 68 with a V keel? Or a post 68 with a rounded keel?

It's a 79, round keel. I have herd that a sharper keel handels better at high speed, but looking for some more factual info if available.

[mjw930]

As explained to me by a long time boat builder / racer, the pure V bottom boats are a royal pain in the ass to handle at speed. Imagine trying to balance the entire boat on the edge of a knife.

Many went to rounded keels, that made the handling better (broader surface supporting the boat on the water) and provided more lift. The next progression was to pad bottoms and full length lifting strakes. Notched transoms soon followed then the ventilated hulls made a comeback and as you can see the latest crop of go fast boats sport pad bottoms, notched transoms and steps.

I think you're better off blueprinting the bottom. Take an area from both edges of the transom and form a triangle back to the keel where the boat rides under full throttle. On that area wet sand the bottom to make it perfectly flat (relative to the deadrise) and sharpen any lifting strakes and the chine. That alone will gain you a couple MPH and make the boat handle sharper at the limit.

Caution, be very careful not to take off too much gelcoat. It's thin in most areas and if you find that you have cut into the glass underneath you'll have to re-gel the area and smooth it out. It's a messy job but it does improve the handling once you get past the 70 mph mark.

[Lenny]

Caution, be very careful not to take off too much gelcoat. It's thin in most areas and if you find that you have cut into the glass underneath you'll have to re-gel the area and smooth it out.

Thin as in 25-28 mils, and this is the THICK part other than chines and areas where it can pool when sprayed. So, in other words, think about 3/64 th's of an inch.

[mjw930]

Thin as in 25-28 mils, and this is the THICK part other than chines and areas where it can pool when sprayed. So, in other words, think about 3/64 th's of an inch.

Yep, when Velocity blueprinted my hull they had to take it down to resin in a few areas. They resprayed the entire rear with gel when they were done then wet sanded it and polished it. Never had a problem in 12 years (the 6 that I owned it and the 6 that it's been in VA).

Side by side with identical power my boat was 4 mph faster then a "standard" boat. I tested that many times to the dismay of a few owners. :eek:

Oh, and as a point of reference, 26' 3" without swim platform and 5500 lbs wet with a 540 HP 468 spinning @ 5800 rpm she topped out at 87.4 mph hung out to dry, 84 mph with a full load. "Production" 280's run ~80 mph with the HP 500 motor (more torque, lower RPM's turning a 2" bigger wheel).

[glassdave]

leave the keel as it is, tune it up a bit and put a Blackhawk on it. I know where you can get one in perfect condition :pimp:

[BigGrizzly]

Leave it alone, they got rid of the sharp keel for a reason, one was turning!

[glassdave]

:hyper:

[chappy]

Sorry for the hijack, but is that BH drive for sale?:crossfing:

[glassdave]

yes it is, contact me at 419-461-1484 if interested. Thanks