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View Full Version : 22 Classic trailer and trailering questions



mjw930
01-06-2008, 07:49 PM
I see that the older 22 Classics do not have rear trailer tie downs. How do most of you secure the rear? Do you use a transom strap or install tie downs?

If you installed tie downs are there any templates to determine the proper position?

Also, I'm looking for a new trailer for a 22 Classic. Does anyone know who Donzi uses or a manufacturer in FL who has the dimensions or has done one before? I'm looking for an aluminum tandem axle trailer with 4 bunks (the two main load carrying bunks and center alignment bunks)

Thanks.

gcarter
01-06-2008, 08:25 PM
I see that the older 22 Classics do not have rear trailer tie downs.

Thanks.

And then a lot of them do. Besides, they're easy to add. Take a look at some pictures of some that do and add a couple to yours. Nothing magic about it. Just back them up on the inside of the transom w/some epoxy coated plywood or starboard.

MOP
01-06-2008, 08:34 PM
My 22 did not have tie downs when I bought it, I added ski hooks on either side to take care of that.

Phil

mjw930
01-06-2008, 08:57 PM
And then a lot of them do. Besides, they're easy to add. Take a look at some pictures of some that do and add a couple to yours. Nothing magic about it. Just back them up on the inside of the transom w/some epoxy coated plywood or starboard.

I know they are easy to add but since only the center of the transom is cored I was wondering if there was any secret and you answered that. Do you see any reason to do more than the starboard? I assume this is so the load is distributed and in that case would a large stainless plate work as well?

mjw930
01-06-2008, 09:02 PM
I've had several built for the 22's if your interested.

That trailer looks very interesting. I see you are using something other than the traditional vertical bunk and the outer supports look to be on the chine rather than the first lifting strake. I LIKE that idea A LOT. Are there any issues with strength or flexing?

That trailer looks like it is a dream to load and unload, is that a safe assumption?

Also, I like the boat to be as deep into the trailer as possible. Is that set up so the keel is as low as it can go?

Do you have any pictures of a 22 on that trailer?

PM me your contact info, I'm VERY interested.

MOP
01-06-2008, 09:03 PM
When you drill to install them you will find the glass with a backer is plenty thick!

yeller
01-06-2008, 11:40 PM
Also, I'm looking for a new trailer for a 22 Classic.
Does this mean you bought that black 86?

I really like the trailer Madpoodle posted. 4 bunks is much better than the standard 2 'trees' that are normally seen.

mjw930
01-07-2008, 05:31 AM
Does this mean you bought that black 86?

I really like the trailer Madpoodle posted. 4 bunks is much better than the standard 2 'trees' that are normally seen.

I haven't bought anything yet but I have an offer in on the Black boat which turns out to be an '87 (finally got the HIN number). It was built and delivered in '86 so that's what the owner remembered.

I like that trailer too. My last trailer for my Velocity was a 4 bunk but it still used the larger vertical main bunks along with the 2 center bunks. This one looks like it supports the boat all the way out to the chine rather than on the first lifting strake. It's a lot like the designs you see on a Myco or other large boat trailers.

Here's a picture of the AmeriTrail like I used to have.

http://www.ameratrail.com/gallery/images/VelocityBlue26.jpg

mjw930
01-07-2008, 10:38 AM
I've had several built for the 22's if your interested.

Scott,

I"m looking at the trailer you posted and it looks like it carries the boat pretty far forward relative to the axles. What tongue weight do these end up with once the boat is loaded on it?

Mark

MOP
01-07-2008, 12:01 PM
I run 300lbs. To kill any flexing it is very important to secure the from moving up and down, I have the eye under the roller and a ratchet strap to the frame. Aluminum trailers tend to flex at the bend, the trick is to make the boat and trailer one!

A P.S. any trailer AL or Steel will crack if not tended to properly!

mjw930
01-07-2008, 05:06 PM
Never checked the tongue weight. They have been towed behind 1/2/3/4/1 ton trucks, Suburbans etc with no issues.. Keep in mind the majority of your weight is behind the drivers seats in these things...

Yes, after looking at a number of other 22's on trailers I see that the ones on the custom trailers sit about where your trailer puts them.

Now, how much? (is there a special Donzi Registry price :crossfing: )

GROUP BUY :propeller:

mjw930
02-09-2008, 08:47 AM
Well, I finally got the boat back from the trailer company and had a chance to use it. Actually the trailer was done a week or so ago but I hadn't had a change to test it out at the ramp until yesterday so I didn't want to post anything.

It's made by AmeraTrail (http://www.ameratrail.com/) in St. Cloud FL. It's a custom fitted aluminum I-Beam trailer with welded bunks, 72" width, welded steps, LED lights, aluminum rims, 2 axle electric over hydraulic SS disk brakes and integrated "boat buckle" transom tie downs. About the only option I didn't get was powder coating. They have a 45' oven and can powdercoat almost any trailer they make.

I bought it through a local dealer who is also a good friend of mine, Bruce Baker @ Express Engines (http://www.expressenginesusa.com/). The price on the trailer is ~$5600 with these options but Bruce will make you a killer deal if you want one and you can save another $1000 by deleting the welded bunks and electric brakes.

You'll note from the pictures that it has 4 full length bunks and that they are inboard of the outside lifting strake. Since the older Classics bulkheads end at the stringers and do not extend to the chine we decided it was best to support the bulk of the weight on the keel bunks and keep the outer bunks inside the stringers. Newer 22's with supports all the way to the chine may not have an issue but even on those I'm more comfortable cradling the boat under it's strongest points.

It tows like a dream at what Poodle calls "insane" speeds and it launches and recovers at the ramp perfectly. I'm a happy camper :D

The ONLY issue is how low we got the boat, unless I back it over the end of my pad or drop the nose all the way to the ground I can't lower the drive all the way..... It's a minor inconvenience considering how stable it tows with the weight as low as possible.

mjw930
02-09-2008, 09:06 AM
Boot stripe is crooked.. :)


Nice trailer, I like their products.. Never understood the welded bunks on bolt onn crossmembers though..

Boot stripe? If you mean on the boat that's an optical illusion in the pictures.

He was going to weld the cross members inside the I-Beam but it raised the boat 3" and put the chine over the fender which didn't look right. The bolted cross members under the I-Beam are stronger than trying to weld them at that point. If the boat had a shallower V or was a pad bottom we could have raised the cross members. Remember, these are stock V cross members, if we went with custom welded cross members to get a deeper V it would have raised the price even higher.

The logic behind the welded bunks is more aesthetic but it's been his experience that the welded bunk supports have a longer life without needing service. If he didn't have the boat as a template he would have done bolted supports simply because you can never get it perfect with drawings and measurements.

BigGrizzly
02-09-2008, 10:44 AM
I tie the stern of my boat with the cross bar that supports the hydraulic rams on the transom plate. I no longer have room on my transom for ski eyes.

zimm17
02-11-2008, 08:36 AM
I use a long transom strap that goes over the whole transom/engine hatch to the trailer- no drilling holes in the boat.