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View Full Version : Thru Bolted Hull to Deck



justleft
11-27-2007, 05:00 PM
It's a '86 22c.

I was thinking about what it would take to change the tank and dig
out all of the old plumbing/wiring.

This whole boat is thru bolted at the deck to hull seam.
Is this standard ? Nyloc nuts and fender washers all around.

I am going to have to make some long wrenches or
find some realy small skinny help !

Lenny
11-27-2007, 05:30 PM
It's a '86 22c.
I was thinking about what it would take to change the tank and dig
out all of the old plumbing/wiring.
This whole boat is thru bolted at the deck to hull seam.
Is this standard ? Nyloc nuts and fender washers all around.
I am going to have to make some long wrenches or
find some realy small skinny help !
Looks to me like she has been off once before. (second set of holes) Thru bolted was not normal as far as I know, but a great alternative once you get things right and put together once again. Nothing wrong with that and the large stainless fender washers shows someone cared.

My question would be "why has this deck been off once before ? "
(if indeed it has)
p.s. I got the "small/skinny" thing worked out for you :) but my location isn't the greatest.

justleft
11-27-2007, 07:25 PM
Yea, I would like to know the history.

Any earlier owners around ?

It would be fun to learn all of the stories.

Then again....

Lenny
11-27-2007, 08:25 PM
Where, when and whom did you get it from ???

Any full boat pics?

Audiofn
11-27-2007, 10:32 PM
Waite tell you find out the guy glues the hull halfs together with 5200!!!!:bonk::bonk::bonk:

Trueser
11-27-2007, 10:43 PM
I used thread lockers on the 22 including the Rub rail. Took forever and worked great.
Why did they drill new holes?
Is the rub rail on or off?

justleft
11-28-2007, 12:30 PM
5200 !!!!!! Ahhhhhh !!!!!! That would be my luck. :doh:

I don't see any 3M product squishing out ot the seam.

Once worked on a Larry Smith Scarab, every seam was glassed over! :bonk:

Last owner was a Scholle and before that Stephanie Acabbo in CN.

gcarter
11-28-2007, 12:59 PM
I used some TEE nuts, you know the kind that have the three stakes that are pressed into the wood strip in the hull. Particularly for the inaccesable areas along side the cockpit. I ended up daubing some epoxy paste to the outside of them to help hold them in place.

Madcow
11-28-2007, 04:44 PM
I have the deck off my 18 right now and before regelling the whole inside I glassed in a 1" strip of 1/8" flexeble corring all the way around the the top lip of the hull. I figured it would help with rigidity and make for a very strong surface for the screws to bite into. This was not my idea bit rather Glassdaves. He had done this before and indicated the hole for the screw needs to be the right size ot it will snap the head off because this stuff does not give much.

v-drive
11-28-2007, 06:31 PM
I have one that 5200 was used to caulk around the whole boat. If I ever had to remove the deck how would I do it. Thanks.

farmer tx
11-29-2007, 01:53 AM
I thru bolted mine when I replaced the rubrail.

MOP
11-29-2007, 08:55 AM
Though I may hurt a few feelings I do not believe in through bolting the decks, to me it serves no purpose other then bragging rights and a lot of extra cost & work. Case in point my 86 22, in 2005 I pulled the rub rail as it was beat. I found all of the screws in perfect condition, I did find that on both sides about 4 feet at the turn of the hull forward some were very slightly loose. What I did for peace of mind was to add screws between each existing screw. I drilled the glass layers using a collet on the bit with a drill sized for the screws, then drilled the inner layer of wood with a 1/8" bit as not to stress the encapsulated wood strip. By drilling the outer layers for the screws and the inner screw strip for the shanks it allows the screws to pull the assy together very tightly. I then counter sunk the outer layer of glass, I then injected a small amount of Silicone in every hole and installed about 160 new screws. As I tightened the new screws quite a few of the existing ones raised up showing they were also a little loose, it also showed I was able to pull the joint up nice and tight. Once finished I removed all of the old screws, I injected Silicone in those holes and reinstalled the screws. Each and every screw tightened just fine with the Makita set on 5 and not one stripped! I look at it this way the original job lasted just fine for 19 years and probably would have gone a lot longer. I went on to fill all the old rail screw holes with Silicon, did a bit of measuring and end trimming of the new rail to avoid hitting the extra screw and installed the rub rail. My doubling job should last way longer then 19 years, my deck can be easily removed with a screw gun no need for fancy tools and a wrenched back!

OK OK I am ducking!

BigGrizzly
11-29-2007, 09:11 AM
Phil, I do agree with you, unless your are going to remove the deck often, which I am not! did however Threw bolt The rub rail seams on all my boats with nylock nuts, the SS rub rail on the Criterion always loosened these screws first. Many years ago we did our 16 with all the deck screws, what a wast. The 16 will pull the deck fiberglass from the hull no mater what in real rough water, si it doesn't matter. AS for the 5200 removal, a heat gun works well. This reminds me of a saying a trucker friend says, "never use a 18 wheeler if a van will carry it all".

MOP
11-29-2007, 10:29 AM
I have one that 5200 was used to caulk around the whole boat. If I ever had to remove the deck how would I do it. Thanks.

I have been through this many times on Hatteras windows and also on two smaller hulls, you will have a fairly nasty messy job ahead of you that takes patience! You need to start with making sure that anything that would stop you from removing the deck once loose it removed or disconnected!
Back then we did not have DeBond, we used SkipSand which also turns 5200 to slimey goo! You need a pump type oil can a lot of wood wedges, the wedges should be 1/2" wide and 3" long good hard strong wood preferably oak coated with Bee's wax. Fill the oil can with the DeBond/SkipSand, now the nasty part you have to crawl inside and squirt it along the inner hull joint as it must work its way down into the 5200. . Do a section about 6-8 feet long, crawl back out wait a few minutes then insert the wedges and tap them in a little to separate the joint, fear not there is plenty of give in the hull for the wedge separation.
Setup your lifting arrangement ahead of time, at first you will only lift the deck clear of the hull just a couple of inches and make sure it can not swing as the 5200 being soft will be everywhere. Trust me lifting it a few inches then walking away until the 5200 sets up again is worth its weight in gold, as the DeBond/SkipSand evaporates the glue re-hardens. wait for it to dry then cut all the stringy mess, you can cut away the majority of what is left behind. You will need DeBond/SkipSand and some rags to finish the clean up. Mask the hull with brown paper (NO PLASTIC) over lap edges with several layers of tape as any DeBond/SkipSand that runs down will loosen the tape, also cover anything below, trailer, floor ETC. some of the 5200 will drip before it starts to firm up. When it comes apart it pays to have a few extra hands available along with gloves, once dry no problem!

This is about a s best as I can type it, if you get to it get in touch we can chat about it!

v-drive
11-29-2007, 06:27 PM
MOP, check your PM