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View Full Version : Replacing aluminum rub rail on '88 22'. What lengths?



zimm17
09-10-2007, 11:05 AM
I did a search and saw that Taco metals makes a replacement rub rail for my 22.

http://www.tacomarine.com/item--1-x-7-16-Aluminum-Rub-Rail--A11-0152.html

What lengths work best?

It says #8 screws.... what length should I use? Anyone count the screw holes to see how many screws I should order?

MOP
09-10-2007, 11:45 AM
Comes in 10 foot lengths you need to order 60 feet, you will have about 7 feet left over.

Phil

A P.S. I used quite a few of my screws over again, and I have about 150 left over if you need them make me an offer!

Morgan's Cloud
09-10-2007, 11:47 AM
It's likely , although I'm not sure , that you should already have 12 foot lengths of stripping on your boat. Just measure one to be sure and then count how many lengths you have. It's unlikely that ALL of them will be 12' though and any short ones should be noticeable. Normally this rub rail material is drilled for screws every 6 inches.
As an example , on my ST T. I install the stern and bow pieces first = each a full 12'.
Then the port and stbd pcs behind the bow piece = each a full 12' length. The remaining length needed on both sides is cut from a 5th piece and are about 5' each.
Your application would probably need a tiny bit more !
Steve

Oops , looks like Phil beat me to it ....
When I originally got my 'new' stripping it was avbl in 12' lengths .. my ( later ) spares had to be cut to 10' for shipping on a 'smaller' aircraft.

zimm17
09-10-2007, 11:48 AM
Comes in 10 foot lengths you need to order 60 feet, you will have about 7 feet left over.
Phil

They show 6' and 12' lengths. I guess that the first 12 footer wraps around the bow, then down each side. Then another 12 footer on each side. Not sure of what to do at the stern. I assume I want the least amount of seams...

Edit: Thanks Morgan's Cloud- your post beat mine by less than a minute- I'll have to get out there and do some measuring.

VetteLT193
09-10-2007, 12:03 PM
When my brother redid his rail on his '87 22, he used stainless. It looks much better than the aluminum and holds up better too.

You may want to consider it... I know it costs more, but I think it's worth it.

VetteLT193
09-10-2007, 12:08 PM
By the way, is that the right rail?

From memory only, I don't think that my Minx has that J shaped rail.

zimm17
09-10-2007, 12:08 PM
Now you opened a can of worms. Where do you get the stainless? Anyone have a model number or type? Can it easily be bend over the bow?

VetteLT193
09-10-2007, 12:18 PM
Now you opened a can of worms. Where do you get the stainless? Anyone have a model number or type? Can it easily be bend over the bow?


I can tell you that his rail looks like brand new, and pretty much makes my aluminum rail look like a hunk of garbage. It also matches all the stainless on the boat... in your case and my case, that means it would match the windshield frame:)

His is bent around the bow and looks great, I don't know what effort went into it or what brand/type he used but I am sure I'll talk to my brother later today sometime, I'll ask him then. He had found a roll of it on eBay for me a while back, but I missed it.:mad:

Cuda
09-10-2007, 12:25 PM
I had the rubrail replace on the 1982 22 Classic last year. I believe it only comes in 12 foot lengths. Where I had it done, he had another 22 that also needed rubrail. He ordered the last of it they had in stock. They probably have more by now. I think I asked him about SS rubrail, and either they didn't make the style to fit the boat, or the price was exorbitant. I seem to remember they didn't make it, because at the time, price would not have been an object, unlike it is now days to me. :(

I'm sure I have an itemized invoice around here somewhere.

gcarter
09-10-2007, 12:43 PM
Another alternative is to have the RR powdercoated.
I know you can't have done just anywhere, but you can here in Leesburg, where there's a shop that has ovens over 30' long.
The big advantage is it wears beautifully and is much more durable. You can even reuse your old rail like I did on the Minx.
If there's anyone interested, I can give you more info.

VetteLT193
09-10-2007, 12:48 PM
Another alternative is to have the RR powdercoated.
I know you can't have done just anywhere, but you can here in Leesburg, where there's a shop that has ovens over 30' long.
The big advantage is it wears beautifully and is much more durable. You can even reuse your old rail like I did on the Minx.
If there's anyone interested, I can give you more info.


I thought yours was anodized, thanks for clearing it up.
You know the rough cost of getting it powdered?
I assume any battle scars can be sanded/ground out of the old rail?

gcarter
09-10-2007, 12:59 PM
I thought yours was anodized, thanks for clearing it up.
You know the rough cost of getting it powdered?
I assume any battle scars can be sanded/ground out of the old rail?
I think new rail cost something over $200.00, and so will powdercoating. Yes, you can just clean up your old ones. The main advantages are that you can have it virtually any color you want, and it's a bunch tougher, then if it ever does get damaged you can just touch up the area w/paint.

Conquistador_del_mar
09-10-2007, 02:14 PM
I did a search and saw that Taco metals makes a replacement rub rail for my 22.
http://www.tacomarine.com/item--1-x-7-16-Aluminum-Rub-Rail--A11-0152.html
What lengths work best?
It says #8 screws.... what length should I use? Anyone count the screw holes to see how many screws I should order?
The replies you are getting are along the lines of what I could offer. I used to do total restorations from structural to cosmetic redos. The rubrail is usually the last thing I would install. It is easy! Depending on whether you think it will get hit might enter into your decision on the type. Make sure the pieces are predrilled and countersunk (6" centers are typical). I found 1" SS rounded hollow back 12' pieces for sale at roughly $60 per section online. This would be an excellent choice for long lasting looks and durability. Whatever you replace it with, make sure to check the screws or pop rivets that secure the deck and hull before installing the new pieces. They are usually starting to work out if not broken due to flex. Start at the bow by wrapping the first piece at dead center of the new piece to dead center of the bow nose working back. I used to do the installations by myself using a good tape to hold the pieces until I had some screws set. If the rubrail is too stiff to bend around the back corners by hand, you can use a towel to protect it while hitting it with a rubber hammer. Plan your pieces to not have a break within about 6" of the transom corners. If you get 12' sections, this won't be a problem in your case. You will be able to do the 22' with 5 - 12' pieces meeting them at dead center of the transom after cutting them at the back end. If the holes don't work out to meet at exactly dead center of the transom, you can off center the meeting pieces and no one will notice. The final cut at the transom is the most difficult. I used to make it with a tiny bit of filing necessary so that they met perfectly. 1" stainless oval head screws are what you can use. You can buy them in bulk at a local Fastenal store. Make sure the drilled holes are snug but not too hard to screw in the screws. You don't want to break off a head although that is fixable. I hope this helps. You should be able to do all this in about 2 hours. By the way, I had some aluminum rubrail gold anodized for my boat and it looks wonderful. Of course, I never allow it to hit a dock though. Bill

VetteLT193
09-10-2007, 03:06 PM
I think new rail cost something over $200.00, and so will powdercoating. Yes, you can just clean up your old ones. The main advantages are that you can have it virtually any color you want, and it's a bunch tougher, then if it ever does get damaged you can just touch up the area w/paint.

Thanks for the info! I might do that, assuming I ever actually start my painting project:eek!:

No one answered me if the rub rail in the link was the right stuff... you should know from experience. is it shaped like a " J " ? Mine seems (again from memory) like it is shaped like " ) "

gcarter
09-10-2007, 03:11 PM
Thanks for the info! I might do that, assuming I ever actually start my painting project:eek!:
No one answered me if the rub rail in the link was the right stuff... you should know from experience. is it shaped like a " J " ? Mine seems (again from memory) like it is shaped like " ) "
The TACO aluminum rail is a "J"....the SST isn't. In fact I haven't seen any "J" section SST rail anywhere.

VetteLT193
09-10-2007, 03:15 PM
The TACO aluminum rail is a "J"....the SST isn't. In fact I haven't seen any "J" section SST rail anywhere.


so, our boats did in fact come from the factory with the J shape? does the J serve any purpose?

justleft
09-10-2007, 03:27 PM
My '86 22c is a "J"

Power coating is an excellent idea! My stbd side is real scratched.

vonkamp
09-10-2007, 03:30 PM
I think the "J" is used to conceal the mating surfaces of the deck to the hull. That's my guess anyhoo. :)

Cuda
09-10-2007, 05:27 PM
The TACO aluminum rail is a "J"....the SST isn't. In fact I haven't seen any "J" section SST rail anywhere.
Me neither.

Be sure to orient the heads of the screws all the same way. :)

gcarter
09-10-2007, 05:43 PM
so, our boats did in fact come from the factory with the J shape? does the J serve any purpose?
It looks a ton better with it. Like Barry said, it finishes the joint.

BigGrizzly
09-10-2007, 06:18 PM
George you havn't seen it because it does not exist. Firft point is you can't bend around the corners. My Corsican is the jay rail the Criterion is the hollow back type and is a rear bear to bend without kinking.

VetteLT193
09-11-2007, 06:58 AM
I talked to my brother last night, his boat does in fact have Stainless rub rail in the "J" shape.

He got it a few years ago "out of Miami somewhere". From his memory, he thought it came in 8' sections. I will take pictures and get measurements this weekend. He reiterated to me again that he saw some on eBay (the proper J shaped) only a few weeks ago... So, someone has to make it:)

BigGrizzly
09-11-2007, 09:47 AM
Vette I have never seen a SS J rail. And knowing how hard it is to bend the D shape I doubt if you can bend it around the bow. What year is your brother's boat. Also could you do a search and find who has this stuff, Because I cannot find anything. My sister says it doesn't exist either, and I would love to prove her wrong!!

VetteLT193
09-11-2007, 10:35 AM
Vette I have never seen a SS J rail. And knowing how hard it is to bend the D shape I doubt if you can bend it around the bow. What year is your brother's boat. Also could you do a search and find who has this stuff, Because I cannot find anything. My sister says it doesn't exist either, and I would love to prove her wrong!!

He has an '87 22 Classic.

I'll ask him again later to see if he remembers where he bought the stuff. I specifically asked him about the shape, and he said he got the exact same J shaped stuff that was on the boat, but in SS. I'll should see the boat in person this weekend too (after a million years waiting on his engine to be done), so I can check it and take pics. :)

I'll search around for it too, see if I can find it somewhere.

VetteLT193
09-11-2007, 11:17 AM
I searched around and I can't find it either... I'll let you know what my bro says:confused:

Conquistador_del_mar
09-11-2007, 11:26 AM
so, our boats did in fact come from the factory with the J shape? does the J serve any purpose?
The lip on the J type rubrail serves to hide the ugly gap of the deck to hull mating surfaces as a few others have pointed out. It will usually bend fairly easily around the relatively gentle curve of the bow nose (depends on the severity of the arc), but it will buckle on the bend around the sharp bend of the transom corners. I have even seen factory installed rubrail look bad if the problem is not addressed properly. The trick is to remove the lip around any sharp curves. It can be cut with a metal cutting blade or as I discovered, a die grinder works very well and makes for a clean look from below. The cut needs to be made before trying to make the bend since the aluminum will fracture if bent back and forth. I had to learn quite a few tricks since I have installed every type rubrail available on the boats that I used to restore. One of the most difficult were the square type thick aluminum rubrails, but once you learned the technique, they were not so bad. If you find a supplier of 1" SS J style rubrail (especially if it is available in longer sections than 8'), please post it. Bill

VetteLT193
09-26-2007, 09:45 AM
My brother finally got his boat out of the shop. His truck broke down on the way to the keys, so his boat is with me for the time being. Here is a picture of his rail. NOT the J style (he told me wrong) , but looks just as good to me as far as fit is concerned, and the SS look really pops on the boat.

These are the best pics I could get so far, it started to rain:(

gcarter
09-26-2007, 01:00 PM
The TACO Metals J-section aluminum rail drilling dies seem to be pretty consistant. I haven't done this yet, but it would seem that since there doesn't seem to be a lot of screw hole tolerance stack up, that if a person were really careful they could duplicate a section by screwing a section on loosely with as many screws as possible and then cutting the ends to match. Going around the transom corners are problematic but manageable. On the Minx and now on the 22, there are four pieces.....long sections on the sides, and one piece on the bow and another around the transom.
You would want to cut as few new holes as possible as the rail gets weakened more w/every new hole drilled in it.
I've decided to powdercoat the new rail on the 22 some silver color or something similar.

VetteLT193
09-26-2007, 02:37 PM
The TACO Metals J-section aluminum rail drilling dies seem to be pretty consistant. I haven't done this yet, but it would seem that since there doesn't seem to be a lot of screw hole tolerance stack up, that if a person were really careful they could duplicate a section by screwing a section on loosely with as many screws as possible and then cutting the ends to match. Going around the transom corners are problematic but manageable. On the Minx and now on the 22, there are four pieces.....long sections on the sides, and one piece on the bow and another around the transom.
You would want to cut as few new holes as possible as the rail gets weakened more w/every new hole drilled in it.
I've decided to powdercoat the new rail on the 22 some silver color or something similar.

If you go the powerdercoat route with the testa, I think it would look really nice if you did it in a metallic dark grey to match the interior :)

kilo_2
09-26-2007, 08:34 PM
I took the aluminum rail backing off and the black rubber insert also I want to replace it with stainless. I had the local marine store checking for me now for over a month and nothing yet it was 12 ft sections and 6 inch centers is there a name for the style of rail i hear you mention J is that the know term? The 22 classic is a 1991 which is an off-white so the arctic white is a no but is the frost white closer to the boat? thanks

gcarter
09-26-2007, 08:40 PM
I took the aluminum rail backing off and the black rubber insert also I want to replace it with stainless. I had the local marine store checking for me now for over a month and nothing yet it was 12 ft sections and 6 inch centers is there a name for the style of rail i hear you mention J is that the know term? The 22 classic is a 1991 which is an off-white so the arctic white is a no but is the frost white closer to the boat? thanks
There doesn't seem to be any SST "J" section rail available.
Here's a site that's in addition to what you find on the West Marine catalog....
www.rubrails.com