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BUIZILLA
08-19-2007, 06:32 PM
this topic applies to Alpha users using TELEFLEX shift cables??

anybody ??

looking for some troubleshooting hints..... I just had the shift cables replaced in my 18 with NEW Teleflex cables and a NEW Uflex control assembly, and it appears that the throw of the drive cable itself possibly isn't long enough (read: needs more cable travel internally), to make it lock completely into reverse gear.

Forward and neutral works great now, after I re-adjusted everything myself per the .pdf file using the *in gear 6" dimension* starting point. It was quite a ways off... It was not releasing from FWD gear when returning to neutral sometimes, as I had to go slightly past neutral into reverse, then back to get neutral.

If I manually shove the cable into reverse, it will engage and it stays there in reverse, but requires gargantuan push effort to keep it in gear, then it pops out. I really thought I was getting Merc cables since I went to a Merc Authorized shop, but late today I discovered that apparently I didn't.. and the new throttle cable is about 1'-2' longer than the old one and was wrapped around the stb. exhaust hose and not secured ANYWHERE in the engine room, as in flopping loose. I also paid for a full drive service, and grease job, and they seemingly forgot the greasing portion..

they also told me the drive was making a clicking sound when in reverse when I picked it up, Alpha's are always noisy, BUT it NEVER did this before, thats for G-damn sure...

the .pdf file in a previous topic states the shift cable travel should be 2 7/8 to 3 1/8, I marked both extended ends with a Sharpie and I have nowhere's near that. The .pdf file also states on page 15 if it does it in reverse only then the drive must be removed because it's in the cable/bellhousing area that wasn't installed properly, or a defective cable.

oh joy....

opinion's??

gcarter
08-19-2007, 07:06 PM
Jim, I can't tell from all you said whether you utilized the adjusting slot in the shifter plate arm for the drive cable. You probably did, but I didn't know about it till someone told me it was there to allow for drive cable stretch. i.e., loosen the drive cable mounting stud on the arm and move it farther out on the arm....it gives more travel.

BUIZILLA
08-19-2007, 07:17 PM
Jim, I can't tell from all you said whether you utilized the adjusting slot in the shifter plate arm for the drive cable. You probably did, but I didn't know about it till someone told me it was there to allow for drive cable stretch. i.e., loosen the drive cable mounting stud on the arm and move it farther out on the arm....it gives more travel. GC, that slot is for centering the interruptor roller in the fork, mine is fine and centered, works perfect... when I REMOVE the cable from the arm completely and manually shove it into reverse it barely engages, as it stops it's total travel because the cable itself stops traveling internally it appears...

gcarter
08-19-2007, 07:23 PM
Hmmmm...have you tried looking at the male and female connection on the forward bottom of the gimbal area?
This sounds pretty strange.

mrfixxall
08-19-2007, 08:15 PM
GC, that slot is for centering the interruptor roller in the fork, mine is fine and centered, works perfect... when I REMOVE the cable from the arm completely and manually shove it into reverse it barely engages, as it stops it's total travel because the cable itself stops traveling internally it appears...


Buiz, it wont stat in gear without someone holding the arm,try having someone hold it in reverse and then try to turn the prop and see if its in gear..

Rootsy
08-20-2007, 06:27 AM
very well may be time for a new cable from drive to shift linkage... it'll stretch and get difficult to move also.... it should shift smooth as silk by manually actuating that cable and it should stay in gear in either direction without effort...

replacing the lower shift cable isn't that difficult...

BUIZILLA
08-20-2007, 06:31 AM
Jamie.... all 3 cables are new...

LKSD
08-20-2007, 07:34 AM
Did you by chance have the drive halfs apart for an impeller & maybe accidentally misalign the shifter beak splines??

Also did the shift cables brass housing seat snugly into the bell housing when you threaded it in?

You may also want to check the shift shaft bushings for slop in the bell housing and the rotator ring on the shift lever in the bell housing..

Lastly some time ago I did have to trim the little plastic tube extention that projects into the bell housing out of the brass threaded cable knock. It wouldnt allow the drive to fully engage no matter how I adjusted the cable. I dont remember whether it was fwd or rev that was an issue, but it helped & it was on an aftermarket cable.. I only had to remove about the thickness of a nickel or penny. I just put a block of wood under the platic tube & trimed it with a box cutter..

Hopefully this will help you.. Jamie / Lakeside


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BUIZILLA
08-20-2007, 07:50 AM
JW, I had a pretty reputable shop do everything since my left hand isn't working too well lately... and yes, they did do an impeller and the drives were split... EXCELLENT point on trimming the cable block, it acts as if the block is maybe hitting something, and not letting the cable extend far enough, i'll let them know that this morning...

in fact, my left hand cramped up on me yesterday, and the bilge now has a 7/16 wrench and a oil hose bracket, as a new tenant, I gave up after that...

thanx

LKSD
08-20-2007, 10:33 AM
No problemo... Hopefully it may help you.. :) Jamie


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zelatore
08-20-2007, 12:26 PM
in fact, my left hand cramped up on me yesterday, and the bilge now has a 7/16 wrench and a oil hose bracket, as a new tenant, I gave up after that...
thanx

There's nothing worse than hiring out a job to a 'pro' that you know you could have done yourself then finding the 'pro' did a worse job than you would have. :mad:

Yeah, yeah, I know everybody takes more care when it's their own boat, but if I'm paying somebody to do a job I figure it's because they are supposed to be BETTER at it than I am!

Hopefully the shop that did the work will sort it out. Still, it's got to be frustrating as hell to know YOU'RE troubleshooting the problem you paid THEM to solve!

Depending on your relationship with the shop, I'm betting the manager either loves to see you coming because you know what you're doing and don't make ridiculous requests, or they cringe because they know they can't get away with anything :wink:

BUIZILLA
08-20-2007, 01:08 PM
I dropped it back off this morning, and reviewed some issues with them....

they were very amicable, and I like the people there... VERY high exposure place, without mentioning names here...

I'm purty sure my point came across too, as the owner, parts, and service mgr all 3 came out to greet me, and review the issues, and verified things in front of me...

they seem to agree that JW's shifting block synopsis is most likely the culprit...