external water pick-up

[glashole]

I am going to install an external water pick-up over the down time (winter) any preferences with regards to make or styles that I should be looking for? :)

[gcarter]

Stainless Marine
Their 1" model is good for 1" or 1 1/4" plumbing.
Here's a link to how to install;
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49388
Note the Starboard bracket on the transverse gusset is for a sea strainer. It'll probably move to the stringer if space permits.
Also note the shut off valve...can't stress how important this can be.

[MOP]

Shea that is one of your best moves, when I had the BH on mine it picked tons of weeds. I was constantly cleaning the strainer, with the dual pickup Brovo X I hardly ever have to clean the strainer. The BH pulls everything right past the intakes with it being in the skeg.

Phil

[roadtrip se]

of 1000 Islands boating. Fantastic scenery, endless water, and then there are the weed farms.

Couple of additional pieces of advice.

Try to get your pickup mounted as close to the drive on the transom as you can. Having that thing sticking down off the back of the boat could introduce handling issues and scrub speed with the surface drive.

An incremental step might be to go with the strainer first and see if you really need to go with the whole enchilda. If I boated at 1000 Islands all the time, I would have a strainer at a minimum.

Have fun dude!

[gcarter]

There's another, seldom thought of, reason to go w/the external p/u. When you look at that 1 1/4" hose running from the gimbal housing hose fitting to the sea water pump, you may be lulled into thinking you have at least 1" dimeter through the gimbal and drive.
WROOOOONG!
There are a number of places through those parts that are 3/4" diameter. How do I know this? I just went out and measured it.
The differance ? About 100% greater area through a 1" transom pick up than through the gimbal and much less chance of picking up weeds in the gimbal and its convoluted path through the components.

[glashole]

I have the strainer set up and it picks up a ton of weeds

I have also found that depending on the contitions (weeds) some weeds will actually get caught before the stainer limiting water flow
I then either backwash the drive or let them dry up and pass into the strainer

I can tell to amount of weeds etc while driving because the engine temp is solid consistant at 160 all of the time

pick up weeds solid 170

weeds caught up before stainer 175

[BigGrizzly]

I too go the Stainless marineand seastrainer.

[tom freeman]

i went to SM today and got the 05 88888 03 1" inside diam. 1.25" hose transom intake.

questions:
Brownie said screws ok with 5200.

does the flat part of the intake mount flush, to the hull, as this would have the intake about 5/16" in to the water in the front and about 3/4 in the back?

in Fla do i need the strainer it is so crowded in that area of the bilge?

can i combine the transom intake with the outdrive intake with a y connector in the boat.

do i need a pressure guage of sorts to indicate the psi and if so what kind.

i thought that if i used hoses and the y connector into a ball cock i would be good to go. i could flush as usual and the outdrive gears stay cooled as the outdrive intake still has flow.

how do you control the flow if it is too great

any thoughts,

signed over heated at WOT in Miami

[gcarter]

i went to SM today and got the 05 88888 03 1" inside diam. 1.25" hose transom intake.
questions:
Brownie said screws ok with 5200.
does the flat part of the intake mount flush, to the hull, as this would have the intake about 5/16" in to the water in the front and about 3/4 in the back?
in Fla do i need the strainer it is so crowded in that area of the bilge?
can i combine the transom intake with the outdrive intake with a y connector in the boat.
do i need a pressure guage of sorts to indicate the psi and if so what kind.
i thought that if i used hoses and the y connector into a ball cock i would be good to go. i could flush as usual and the outdrive gears stay cooled as the outdrive intake still has flow.
how do you control the flow if it is too great
any thoughts,
signed over heated at WOT in Miami
1) You can mount the flange a little above the bottom so that the leading edge of the pickup is even with the bottom.
2) I would strongly reccomend a strainer. You can route the incoming water line toward the seat back to get more room for the strainer if there's more room there.
3) Removing the hose through the transom (gimbal) housing is the best solution....have a flange fabricated to block off the internal hose fitting. This way you still have circulation through the outdrive for cooling, i.e., it just dumps back into the water.
4) Gaffrig and Livorsi both make water pressure gauges. If there's a problem, a relief valve can be added to the system. It can discharge through the side through its own fitting near the bilge discharge, or you can use the bilge discharge fitting if you're clever.

[tom freeman]

thanks george'
to be clear though... the bottom of the plate is flush with the hull, or is the beginning of the square intake pipe flush with the hull?

can i just screw and 5200 or do i have to bolt it... again it is way tight down in the bilge. I am NOT taking out the engine at this time.

did you put a guage and release on yours.


t

[gcarter]

thanks george'
to be clear though... the bottom of the plate is flush with the hull, or is the beginning of the square intake pipe flush with the hull?
can i just screw and 5200 or do i have to bolt it... again it is way tight down in the bilge. I am NOT taking out the engine at this time.
did you put a guage and release on yours.
t
Thed leading edge of the square tube is flush with the bottom........
I would bolt it....but do what you have to do. Just use plenty of screw.
No I didn't install a gauge, bought one though, still have it.
Nor did I install a relief valve, I figured the pressure at my running speeds was 50-60 PSI. It did leak under way though. When I retrieved it I would drain 3-4 gallons, but I had a lot of connections w/coolers etc.

[gcarter]

Tom, you're going to have to get inside that engine compartment anyway to make your pipe connections. May I suggest some bronze 90* and 45* street ells? Along w/a bronze or SST ball valve. At your last fitting, screw in a 1" X 1 1/4" pipe to hose adapter. You won't find these everywhere. I know West offers them but doesn't stock them, I had to order mine.
Good luck.

[BigGrizzly]

Tom, I have a Y on my Corsican with two shut off ball valves. this way I can use one or the other or both which is what I do. The advantage id when you exit the water the lower ,unit is the last to leave and first to enter therefore you run dry for less time. The added feature is The lower unit creates less pressure then the hull pickup on re entry and while running (yes I have put a gauge on both at the same time), therefore lowers the spike at re entry. Pressure is directly related to how low the pickup trailing edge is. First I would put the trailing edge about 1/4 below the hull. cut it to the same angle as the V bottom. Believe it or not I actually use PVC ball valves on mine and never had a issue. I did it initially as a temp but it worked so well it stayed. Since we both have the same boat call me and I will give specifics.

[jg480]

what type of sea water pump are you using?

[tom freeman]

OK george and griz i did it as you suggested... kind of a combo, i used PVC, and 1.25 hose with clamps and ballcocks. it looks good, no leaks on land while flushing. i put in 3 ball valves, one on the transom intake, one on the lower unit's intake hose and one after the Y. then i also added a seastrainer (a cheap one as the brass nice ones were 200 bucks). It is all installed and ready, and I will go launch the craft at 5 pm when i might get a parking spot at the ever so crowded ramps down here.

again thanks toall for the help.

[gcarter]

Be careful using PVC in installations. PVC fittings w/female threads will almost always fail and split when there's vibration in the system. Sometimes you don't even need vibration.
I'm in the water treatment business, and in our shop such a practice is forbidden. Period. There's too much of a chance of failure and damage to someones home.
If you must use PVC, use fittings w/male threads screwing into female metal fittings.
Be careful. I'd hate to see you sink your boat.

[tom freeman]

grizzly, george and everyone,

the transom pick up is the key!

thanks for the advice, i did use some PVC and some hose, many clamps, and some brass... i will most likely take out one of the valves and add more hose. it does have shake due to the water pump, the hose absorbs shake BUT i was looking for water after every run. i do not want a leak.

i installed the water strainer and yes it did have a few weeds in it so that was also a great idea.

the thing is IT STAYED COOL, never over 147 degrees, WOT and trimmed out. it was really windy down here today so she was flyin, almost literally. So now finally after years getting this craft goin I can focus on refining it. Everything works like new, and she looks good.

I am not so good with the camera but i will post photo's of my boat and the pick up later this week,

i would have never gone with this SOLUTION had it not been for all the great advice.

windshield... cooling... prop... throttle knob...shirt and maybe another Donzi all because of this site.

now i will do the trailer upgrade so maybe i can come over to sarasota ...

thanks

[tom freeman]

do you think the PVC is a hazard, i used a bronze/brass valve comming off of the intake, then i made a PVC joint, kind of a t joint and the added these PVC valves...2 of them, and i will take one off. the stuff seems strong to me but if you guys think that strongly that it is a hazard i will swap it out. i wanted to make sure it was the solution and therefor went the home depot quick Sunday morning solution. it is just a little work and another 100 to go brass. the brass y joint was the thing i could not find.

[gcarter]

Tom, we're not being overly picky, just looking out for you.
Another thing to consider is that brass has zink in it and will completely come apart if you run in saltwater. Brass de-zinkifies (yep...that's the term) and the copper that's left will be like a swiss cheese and crumble. You need to take Poodles advice and go bronze. Bronze has no zink. Costs more too LOL!

[tom freeman]

the boat is all saltwater, never seen fresh except for flushing. i have spent so much money at this point it is not even a consideration, but now i am thinking, the 1" hose fittings i get at either crook n crook or west marine are BRASS. the ballcock is a silver like color not brass. so i need bronze?

sounds... well don't know i will shop this week, the PVC was sure easy and worked... but so far listening to you all as also got me a long way.

[BUIZILLA]

go to Simmons Stainless Surplus on Milam Dairy Road

[tom freeman]

i will go buy there this week and redo with nonplastic's by the weekend.
now that i know that the problem is solved i can make it permanent and yacht worthy.

[tom freeman]

go to Simmons Stainless Surplus on Milam Dairy Road

another GREAT lead, I went to this great place today at lunch... simmons stainless as you suggested and got great deals on all the parts i needed to duplicate the pvc.

thanks,
i am installing it tonight and tomorrow night

[BUIZILLA]

if Simmons doesn't have it....

you don't need it..

[gcarter]

I'll have to check this place out the next I'm that far South.