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View Full Version : I Hate My Trailer!!!!



yeller
08-16-2007, 01:42 AM
Those of you considering a new trailer, stay away from Rocket. I hate it, hate it, hate it, hate it, hate it, hate it, hate it.
Repeat that 10,000 times and you will be mildly close to how much I hate my trailer.
I didn't care for it much when I picked up my boat, but hey, it was near new and aluminum, which was good because I boat in salt 50% of the time. The more I used it though, the more I disliked it.
There's a bunch of things that have added up to make me despise it so much, like all 4 fender brackets breaking and needing replacement, brakes on only one axle and too small, poorly routed brake lines which have burst. My biggest frustration however has to be with the coupler. There is no way to lock out the brakes except with the reverse solenoid. If you're backing up a hill and don't get it perfect on the first try, you're screwed. You can't pull forward a bit and then back up again because the brakes lock. You have to pull all the way down the hill until there is no pressure on the coupler and then try again. Tonight I was 99.9% perfect........5 times. I was literally 6 inches short of where I needed to be, but had to pull ahead a bit and of course...locked the brakes and had to start again.

AARRRGGGG!!!!! I HATE THAT TRAILER!!! Tonight I beat it, as hard as I could, with a 6' 2x4 that was lying around. I'd still be out there, except there is nothing left of the 2x4. :boggled: Instead, you all have to read this rant.

Oh, well, time for bed. Hopefully, I can get a couple hrs sleep.....I'm still a bit wound up.

fegettes
08-16-2007, 04:20 AM
Glen, do you have that fifth wire that releases the brakes, I believe it releases when the reverse light comes on? I have the same problem when I don't have the trailer lights plugged in and backing up.

Steve

Carl C
08-16-2007, 06:50 AM
Your brake problem is normal. I have learned not to park on even a slight incline pointing downward. The problem is that the actuater is already jammed forward and the brakes are already locked up so they will not release even when the back-up solonoid is energized. You may need to come up with a way to keep the actuater from moving when backing up your hill. You could drill a hole with the tongue fully forward where you could put a bolt to completely deactivate the brakes when you need to. I also believe it is standard practice to only have brakes on one axle. Of course your fender brackets should not be falling apart. Take a valium and chill!:chillpill:

VetteLT193
08-16-2007, 07:22 AM
The trailer should have a manual override... usually a pin that you put in and it will stop the brakes from activating all together. If you pin it before backing up the hill, you won't get the line lock effect.

Trueser
08-16-2007, 08:51 AM
I have an extra brake solenoid you can have for $45.00 including shipping.

That will solve your problem. Takes 20 minutes to install....

gcarter
08-16-2007, 09:30 AM
Glen, ALL of these issues can be fixed for far less than a new trailer. I didn't bother to hook up the back up light for quite a while. The pin works great.
An additional set of brakes will work w/ the existing master cylinder.
I'd work w/it.

Carl C
08-16-2007, 09:55 AM
The trailer should have a manual override... usually a pin that you put in and it will stop the brakes from activating all together. If you pin it before backing up the hill, you won't get the line lock effect.

I didn't bother to hook up the back up light for quite a while. The pin works great.
There is indeed already a place to put a lock-out pin. I just had to pull my coupler all the way forward to see it. This will easily solve your biggest headache.

yeller
08-16-2007, 10:42 AM
Take a valium and chill!:biggrin.:

Ok, a little less aggrevated this morning. That damn coupler just pisses me off. There is no manual override for the brakes and I have to back my boat up an incline to store it. If I don't get it right (and my parking spot is tight), I can't pull forward a bit and continue, because the solenoid will then lock the brakes on. I have to pull all the way onto the road and try again.
I guess for now, I'll drill a hole for a lock-out pin. Later I'll run a seperate wire for the solenoid and connect it to a toggle switch.

Sorry for the outburst guys. I had steam coming out my ears last night. :)

Team Jefe
08-16-2007, 10:43 AM
I know how to fix it.....move to the flatlands:lookaroun:

I'm just playing.....put down the 2X4:tongue:

Seriously, surge brakes are a beeatch backing up a hill, thus the lockout pin on all the ones I have seen.

Also, if you don't like the whole surge brake system. A bud here installed Electric over Hydraulic system that is VERY NICE. I can get the name if you're interested, but it was pretty pricey, like $1500-$2000 for the system on both axles. But now he can stop the truck with just the trailer brakes....though that is not recommended:bonk:

The rest of the stuff is unacceptable....I sure hope Rocket made good on the fixes.

yeller
08-16-2007, 11:47 AM
The solenoid can trigger off of your reverse lights.. It is. That's the problem. I have to back up an incline and if I put it in reverse when on the incline, the brakes are effectively locked-up and I can't back the trailer up. I have to pull off the incline and back the trailer into it's spot in one shot. Not an easy task if you saw where I have to park.


Now, not to add to your misery, but per FDOT regs, the trailer is illegal. ANYTHING over 3k lbs is required to have brakes on both all axles... In the event of a wreck, your insurance co. can deny coverage if in THEIR opinion the brakes were illegal or inadequate..Good point. I'll have to check the legalities here in BC. I'm going to put brakes on the second axle anyway though.
That being said, based on what you say, how can a manufacturer legally sell a trailer that's rated for more than 3k with only one set of brakes?

zelatore
08-16-2007, 12:19 PM
While I don't know your particular trailer maker, a lot of these guys are just regional back-yard builders. It doesn't take a lot of technology to throw together a trailer. So as for how they could sell it and not be legal...well, what makes you think they ever even read the code? :bonk:

BTW - I don't know for sure since I don't deal in trailer boats, but doesn't each state have it's own rules regading brakes?

Lastly, I'd much rather have electronic brake control over surge brakes. When I was racing I had straight electronic brakes on my flatbed. It was far superious to surge brakes as you could manually control the brake 'tip in' point, the total brake force, and if you got some sway going you could manually apply a little trailer brake to straighten it out.

Or, if you had an empty trailer and some moron was tailgating you you could reach down and lock the trailer brakes up for a second sending out all sorts of smoke and noise. Not that I'd ever do something like that myself. :wink:

for obviuos reasons the straight electronic brakes won't work on a boat trailer, but the electric over hydraulic has to be the best way to go.

drew0982
08-16-2007, 12:45 PM
AARRRGGGG!!!!! I HATE THAT TRAILER!!! Tonight I beat it, as hard as I could, with a 6' 2x4 that was lying around. I'd still be out there, except there is nothing left of the 2x4. :boggled: Instead, you all have to read this rant.
Oh, well, time for bed. Hopefully, I can get a couple hrs sleep.....I'm still a bit wound up.




:rlol: :rlol: :rlol: :rlol: :rlol: :rlol: :rlol: :rlol: :rlol: :rlol:

Trueser
08-16-2007, 01:36 PM
http://www.rockettrailers.com/TrailerBrakeLaws.htm

Alaska 40' 8' 13' 6" 65' YES 3000
Arizona 40' 8' 13' 6" 65' YES 3000
Arkansas n/a 8' 6" 13' 6" n/a YES 3000
California 40' 8' 6" 14' 65' YES 3000
Colorado 45' 8' 6" 13' 6" 70' YES 3000
Connecticut 45' 8' 6" 13' 6" 60' YES 3000
Delaware 40' 8' 6" 13' 6" 60' YES 4000
Dist. Of Columbia 40' 8' 6" 13' 6" 55' YES 3000
Florida 48' 8' 6" 13' 6" 60' YES 3000
Georgia 53' 8' 13' 6" 55' YES 3000
Hawaii 40' 9' 13' 6" 65' YES 3000
Idaho 45' 8' 6" 14' 65' YES 1500
Illinois 42' 8' 13' 6" 60' YES 3000
Indiana 40' 8' 6" 13' 6" 60' YES 3000
Iowa 48' 8' 6" 13' 6" 60' YES 3000
Kansas n/a 8' 6" 14' 65' n/a
Kentucky n/a 8' 13' 6" 55' n/a
Louisiana 30' 8' 13' 6" 70' YES 3000
Maine 45' 8' 6" 13' 6" 65' YES 3000
Maryland n/a 8' 13' 6" 55' YES 3000
Massachusetts 33' 8' 6" 13' 6" n/a YES 10000
Michigan 53' 8' 13' 6" 60' YES 3000
Minnesota 48' 8' 6" 13' 6" 60' YES 3000
Mississippi 40' 8' 6" 13' 6" n/a YES 2000
Missouri n/a 8' 6" 14' 60' n/a
Montana n/a 8' 6" 13' 6" 75' YES 3000
Nebraska 40' 8' 6" 14' 6" 65' YES 3000
Nevada n/a 8' 6" 14' 70' YES 3000
New Hampshire 48' 8' 13' 6" 48' YES 3000
New Jersey 40' 8' 13' 6" 48' YES 3000
New Mexico 40' 8' 14' 65' YES 3000
New York 45' 8' 6" 13' 6" 60' YES 3000
North Carolina 48' 8' 6" 13' 6" 60' YES 4000
North Dakota 60' 8' 6" 14' 75' YES All
Ohio 40' 8' 6" 13' 6" 65' YES 2000
Oklahoma n/a 8' 6" 13' 6" 65' YES 3000
Oregon 35' 8' 6" 14' 50' n/a
Pennsylvania 53' 8' 6" 13' 6" 60' YES 3000
Rhode Island 48' 6" 8' 6" 13' 6" 60' YES 4000
South Carolina 48' 8' 6" 13' 6" n/a YES 3000
South Dakota 53' 8' 6" 14' 70' YES 3000
Tennessee 48' 8' 6" 13' 6" 65' YES 3000
Texas n/a 8' 6" 14' 65' YES 4500
Utah 48' 8' 6" 14' 65' YES 2000
Vermont 53' 8' 6" 13' 6" 65' YES 3000
Virginia n/a 8' 6" 13' 6" 60' YES 3000
Washington 48' 8' 6" 14' 75' YES 3000
West Virginia 40' 8' 13' 6" 65' YES 3000
Wisconsin 45' 8' 6" 13' 6" 65' YES 3000
Wyoming 60' 8' 6" 14' 85' n/a [/SIZE][/FONT]

BUIZILLA
08-16-2007, 01:43 PM
Massachusetts 33' 8' 6" 13' 6" n/a YES 10000


is this a misprint??

handfulz28
08-16-2007, 01:44 PM
Non-commercial trailers still regulated by states. Here in FL I think it was just last year that mandated brakes on each axle for trailers over 3500lbs. I took delivery of a trailer in october '06 and it was my option whether to get 'em on all 3 axles (I didn't, no complaints at 9k gtw). I've owned/operated two different 7k lb twin axle trailers with brakes on just the front axle; the electric 10" drums were good to about 6k lbs.
I think some surge couplers these days don't have a manual lockout provision; you've got to make your own. Going to the toggle is usually the best way to manage that kind of situation.
Freshwater users can use electric drums and be perfectly fine. But for saltwater, electric over hydraulic discs is the only way to go.

handfulz28
08-16-2007, 01:49 PM
is this a misprint??

Definitely. MA was one of the first states to require brakes on every axle. Probably should be 1k. The problem with that list is it doesn't confirm whether brakes are required on every axle, or just "required".

drew0982
08-16-2007, 01:54 PM
Hey, laughter from the Bahamas aint fair.. You dont have to tow far enough to need brakes, hell why would ya have a trailer for that matter?? ;) ;)


lol... there aren't any brakes on my trailer is for sure!:wink: that thing barely has reflectors! lmao! good thing about havin a trailer down here is for when people like ahem! :propeller:Dean decide to show up:crossfing:

Team Jefe
08-16-2007, 03:28 PM
E / H brakes are way overkill on the small trailer we use... Nice system, but $$$$$$$$
Ever consider a hitch on the front of the truck?? :) :)
Another possible solution is a rubber door chock.. Before you try to back up, slip it between the slide and the housing... Wood works also...

E/H - yes I agree. the system I spoke of is on a triple axle unit carrying a very heavy 30' Sonic.

Hitch on the front...its the only thing I miss from the F-350. those are really neat to have.

Rubber Door Chock????? Dog, you are from S. FL I thought everything had to be gold plated, auto remote control, LED, blinged out to the MAX:wink:

handfulz28
08-17-2007, 09:19 AM
I'd be happy to get the statute # off of an invoice from Continental for ya tomorrow..

Now now, no need to go dragging the law into this :D :D But for beating a dead horse's sake, does the statute require brakes on all axles, or just "brakes required on trailers over 3k GVW"?

And yes, thank you for helping to quash the feds. I remember when I was renting Uhaul car haulers for a while thinking...these guys are going to hate life if they have to change all these trailers.

BUIZILLA
08-17-2007, 09:31 AM
Regardless of which state you reside in, if you leave the state with that trailer, it MUST conform to each states regulations that you travel to/through as well. The *homestate* excuse won't buy you an alibi...

Budmann
08-17-2007, 09:40 AM
Yeller, it is not just Rocket!! I had the same problem and I just drilled a hole just in front of where the two pieces slide into on another. Went to West Marine and bought a pull pin and mounted it to the coupler. Works great, I just need to remember it before I start backing up!:yes::yes::yes::yes:

Good luck!! Isn't boating relaxing!!:wink::wink::wink::wink::wink::wink:

yeller
08-17-2007, 10:08 AM
Ever consider a hitch on the front of the truck?? :yes: It's on my list of things to do.

Doesn't mean it'll get done....but it's on the list. :)


Yeller, it is not just Rocket!! I had the same problem and I just drilled a hole just in front of where the two pieces slide into on another.
Yea, I know Rocket doesn't make the coupler. Why would anyone make a coupler without a manual lock-out?? :confused: I'll bust out the drill before my next time out. A simple fix that I should have done ages ago.

Rocket did make the weak fender brackets and they did route the brake line (which caused me to lose my brakes when I was travelling through the mountains). Take my word for it......it is NOT fun hauling a 22 through the mountains with a 1/2ton P/U and no trailer brakes. :eek!:

Trueser
08-17-2007, 10:58 AM
ROCKET INTERNATIONAL TRAILERS
2360 Crystal Road
Fort Myers, Florida 33907

This is the trailer we have under the Z29 and it has been great. Just ordered a bunch of parts from them for upgrades and we should be ready for LOTO shootout.

Is this the same trailer your having issues with?

handfulz28
08-17-2007, 10:59 AM
Thanks for the link MP :D Not so bad to read :bonk:
So how have so many trailers been made/sold in this state that don't comply? And I bet there's builders that will still sell a tri-axle with only two sets of brakes...

Carl C
08-17-2007, 11:04 AM
Why would anyone make a coupler without a manual lock-out?? :confused: Yeller, look at my pic in post #7. On the side of the coupler it says "warning, reverse lockout option must only be used when moving in reverse. Immediately remove pin prior to towing and insert into coupler latch". Look closely at your coupler and grab the tongue and pull it all the way forward. You should already have a hole there to jam the coupler with a pin or bolt.

yeller
08-17-2007, 11:17 AM
Is this the same trailer your having issues with?If it's the same company as the link you posted, :yes:

I have the aluminum model.


You should already have a hole there to jam the coupler with a pin or bolt.Nope. I have a different style coupler. I've been thinking about changing it out because I also don't like the way it latches. Not sure if I can explain it properly...but yours will have a 'forked arm/lever' that cups the underside of the ball to prevent the coupler from coming off the ball. Mine has a single 'pin' that pushes against the ball. It maintains pressure against the ball at all times, forcing the ball to the front of the coupler so the ball is trapped in the 'pocket' of the coupler. My coupler will have a higher weight rating than yours and normally I like overkill, but I just don't feel safe with the single pin jammed against the ball. It's also very easy to have the coupler on the ball but not have the pin engage. I found that out when I was pulling down my incline and the trailer started pounding the crap out of my tailgate. I was only pulling it out to wash it. It's a good thing I make it a habit to always attach the safety chains, even if just pulling in the driveway.

gcarter
08-17-2007, 11:33 AM
It's interesting that Extreme Marine trailers, who MP and Buizilla love to dislike, but who's trailer I had absolutely no issues with, mount the fenders on crossmembers. Needless to say, the fenders don't vibrate, nor do you get that sinking sensation while standing on them.

Just to let you know, they each bought an EM trailer and had alignment problems. Because of their experiences, when I got mine (a deal I couldn't refuse), I went straight to the alignment shop and had the trailer checked. No issues w/mine.

BUIZILLA
08-17-2007, 11:44 AM
I have not had the first issue with either of my EM trailers, I drew them up for *my* needs, and they've both been great so far.... I don't think the first trailer was as much an issue, as the after-the-deal with the owner was... :eek!:

gcarter
08-17-2007, 07:25 PM
I didn't go back and re-read my post about my trailer, but I think I said the alignment shop wanted to bend the axles to "improve" the difference from side to side of the same axle, i.e., measuring the track from the fronts of the tires to the rears of one axle, it was within 1/4" and they wanted to get it wigthin 1/8".....I never took it back. Overall I was very pleased w/it. One of the disc brake caliper brackets broke (bad casting I believe) and they eventually sent me an entire new set of Kodiaks. It did take awhile though.
But I did like the fender mounting on the crossmembers, made the fenders something you never thought about.
BTW, I only dealt w/a dealer in Ocala and have never been to their shop.
I'm sorry you had so many issues w/yours. I suppose all mfg's screw up at times. Over the time I've been here, I can think of issues w/almost any brand anyone cares to mention.

blue boat
08-14-2011, 10:24 AM
I have the original 1967 rocket trailer that came with my 1967 donzi inboard. I am restoring it as I speak. Salvaging some old parts, but having trouble with replacing the keel rollers which are 7" length. Interesting how they put this trailer together. The main I beam is not welded to either front beam or the axle. The wheel well and axle with leaf springs are welded onto a bracket that is placed under the I beam and clamped down with u bolts. You can remove everything down from main frame just buy zipping off acouple of bolts. Now the registration states 2900 gw. My father ( who bought the boat and trailer when I was a kid ) said I put the gross weight on the trailer. He has 3450 for weight. I have been looking up springs on line and nothing with 7 leafs it would help in height but does that make a difference in gw? 6 leafs the most is out there. Do I just look for the weight for each spring? Trying to keep it original as much as I can. The trailers double eye springs are 30" center of eyes plus 7 leafs. I can not find that application. Anyone have any thought on where to find these parts? :confused:

f_inscreenname
08-14-2011, 07:26 PM
I know how you feel about those Rockets. I guess that’s why Brownie went with Thunderbird.
Try these guys http://www.easternmarine.com/shop/

yeller
08-14-2011, 10:21 PM
Wow...4yr old thread pulled from the dead.

I reread it...and just had to laugh at myself. It wasn't so humorous at the time though.

Still have the Rocket. Still haven't properly repaired the fender brackets, but I have replaced the coupler. The old one failed, released, and the coupler smashed the crap out of the back of my new truck.

Best two things I did was replace all the lights with LED's and replaced the crappy Tie-Down brakes with Kodiaks.

I still hate the trailer...but it's better than it was