Has Anyone Installed CMI Sport Tubes? I Have a Problem.

[Carl C]

Everthing was going OK untill I got to the Corsa diverter adapter kit. The o-rings seem too big. The instructions indicate that they should fit tightly on the y-pipe but mine are way too big and will not clamp down. The adapters still turn with the clamps fully tightened. I will call Custom Marine in the morning but does anyone know if these are the wrong o-rings?

[roadtrip se]

in the barn, since the boat is here for MADCOW.

My CMI tails are actually welded to the CORSA divertors, but I believe my headers are different than yours. Two pieces, the headers and the tails that attach to them. Yours are one piece with integrated tails.

My guess would be that you need a sleeve and clamp arrangement that goes over both ends, but without seeing the end of the CMI piece, I can't tell for sure.

I would suggest you call Corsa, not CMI. They were a big help to me, when I went through this.

[Carl C]

They packed the wrong o-rings..................:(..................CMI will send the right ones.:crossfing:

[roadtrip se]

Carl,

Glad you got what you needed. Before you wrench it all together, post some pictures of both ends of this set-up. I would be interested in seeing the updated version and I am sure you won't be the last to go through this rodeo.

[Carl C]

Here are pics. The port side Corsa adapter is shorter.

[BUIZILLA]

the STB side should be the shorter one...

[Ed Donnelly]

Carl;Wife says your floor is laminate(otherwise your wife would kill you for scratching it)
I say Oak......
So tell us who is right(Lie if you have to)...Ed

[Carl C]

the STB side should be the shorter one... Yes, that is correct.

Carl;Wife says your floor is laminate(otherwise your wife would kill you for scratching it)
I say Oak......
So tell us who is right(Lie if you have to)...EdYou're both wrong! It is a unique flooring made by Amtico. You will not find it in stores because it is used for commercial flooring and is very expensive. It glues down in strips like vinyl flooring. It consists of 3 layers; a black backing, the woodgrain and a clear layer made from the same material as golfballs. The clear coat makes it nearly indestructible. The damage you see is in front of my wood stove from embers rolling out. Most people assume it's oak and I don't say anything because if I tell them it's vinyl they'll think I was cheap but this stuff costs more then oak.:wink:

[roadtrip se]

Mine were designed to hook right up to the exhaust tips, so I sent the tails off to Corsa and had them rework them to include the diverters.

Upside, they work great. Downside, they are about an inch too tall, which drives me crazy every time I look at them. Oh well, I'll get around to adressing that some day.

Looks like this will be a cleaner setup.

[Carl C]

UPS just brought the right o-rings. I will give credit to CMI customer service for getting them to me in 26 hours! Now I have work to do but since it's really hot outside and in the garage I won't be able to work very fast.

[Carl C]

What a PITFA! Just once I'd like to get an aftermarket part that simply bolted on. I've had to rerig everything and now I must cut down the
corsa y-pipes. It's 90 degrees and humid so I don't think I can do much more today.:mad:

[The Hedgehog]

What a PITFA! Just once I'd like to get an aftermarket part that simply bolted on. I've had to rerig everything and now I must cut down the
corsa y-pipes. It's 90 degrees and humid so I don't think I can do much more today.:mad:

I am pretty sure that aftermarket parts that bolt up just don't exist. Heck, even with stupid billet cupholders you find your self grinding out plastic buttom supports 1/8"! Now headers, that calls for a virtual re-rig of half the engine compartment.

[Carl C]

I am pretty sure that aftermarket parts that bolt up just don't exist. Heck, even with stupid billet cupholders you find your self grinding out plastic buttom supports 1/8"! Now headers, that calls for a virtual re-rig of half the engine compartment. Ain't that the truth! Starboard side is nearly done and so am I for the day. It's too damn hot. :kaioken:

[yeller]

Looks good Carl. :yes: With that type of bling hanging off the sides, you're going to have to order a new cowl. :wink: :wink:

[Carl C]

Looks good Carl. :yes: With that type of bling hanging off the sides, you're going to have to order a new cowl. :wink: :wink: I'm not putting the plastic one back on. This would be a good looking engine if not for the electronics and cables, etc. that are on top. I'll find some way to make it look better eventually. I'm up at 6:00 so I can have some coffee and get to work before it gets hot again.:yes:

[gcarter]

I'm up at 6:00 so I can have some coffee and get to work before it gets hot again.:yes:
That's exactly what I was going to suggest to you!!!:wink:

[roadtrip se]

It's spitting a little rain and the temperature is hoovering around 70 degrees this morning in the Detroit area, so we ought to see significant progress from Carl's garage.

Think good thoughts my man. Say, "This Sunday on the Big Lake", "This Sunday on the Big Lake". Repeat, as needed.

I am going to want to talk with you about cutting the y-pipes. Interesting advice. May explain why my plumbing is a little screwy at the exhaust tips and I swear I measured things so many times that I had the dimensions memorized. I have looked at these things for five years and just figured the welding was off on the tails.

Learn something new every day.

Pics look good.

[LKSD]

lookin good.. :) Jamie


.

[Carl C]

"Murphy's Law" has been in affect this whole project. I thought I wouldn't have to cut down the port side y-pipe but I had to cut off a half inch. New oil hoses were against the header so I had to reposition those. Now the big headache is this misalignment of the exhaust hose to tip. I've tried every way imaginable to get this side together. I'm taking a breakfast break and will heat the hose with a hairdryer to try to get it together. This job would probably be a lot easier without the Q&Q but I need to keep that. Oh yeah, the exhaust port on this side did not line up in the diverter. I had to enlarge the hole or there would have been a big exhaust restriction in quiet mode.

[Carl C]

Well not one damn thing was easy about this job and I'm an experienced mechanic but I think I'm done! There is one problem though; When attaching the oil line at the back of the oil cooler I cracked the fitting on the cooler. I ran it up to temp on the hose and ran it at 3,000 rpm for a bit and there was no leak there. If it does leak will it leak water or oil? I'm thinking it would leak water there which would be a lot better then an oil leak. I'm going to try to make it north sunday but time is working against me now. I still need to water test the boat and I must work fri and sat. Anyway the motor is looking good and I'd appreciate input on the cracked oil cooler fitting. I'm not willing to risk an oil leak.

[Sweet little 16]

I would think you would want to get that fixed before you run it real time
the water always seems a little rougher once the boat leaves the trailer

[undertaker]

Carl, exhaust looks sweet.....:yes::yes::yes:

[blueliner]

"Murphy's Law" has been in affect this whole project. I thought I wouldn't have to cut down the port side y-pipe but I had to cut off a half inch. New oil hoses were against the header so I had to reposition those. Now the big headache is this misalignment of the exhaust hose to tip. I've tried every way imaginable to get this side together. I'm taking a breakfast break and will heat the hose with a hairdryer to try to get it together. This job would probably be a lot easier without the Q&Q but I need to keep that. Oh yeah, the exhaust port on this side did not line up in the diverter. I had to enlarge the hole or there would have been a big exhaust restriction in quiet mode.

carl,

i am having an issue with my cmi install as well. if u could shed some light on this it would be great. i would love to know if i am having the same problem u experienced. i have an 05 aronow 22' classsic with the corsa q and q. my starboard side header is pointing way below the hole for the tip. at first my tech thought it was the flange on the collar piece that connects between the header and the corsa. cmi sent out a new one, but it is still not pointing up enough to have it line up with the hole. so dave and jeffrey (who have been awesome btw) are sending me out a new starboard header. my tech says there is a problem with the weld in the header flange itself. does any of this sound familiar. i thought this was suppose to be just a bolt on, quick retro-fit operation. i see you said you had to cut down ur q and q... where u experiencing the same problems??? any feedback would be greatly appreciated. if u could give me some specifics that would be great. this is the last piece of the puzzle. the imco steering kit is on and i want to hit the water. i was thinking just to rip out the q and q and go without it, but....

[Carl C]

Keep the Q&Q, you will want it for longer cruises. Check the alignment of the exhaust port in the adaptor to the port in the Corsa y-pipe. My port side was way off so I had to enlarge the hole. I used a cutting torch but SS does not burn so it actually melted the metal! The alignment was pretty good on my sb side but the y-pipe was too long and was holding the exhaust up so I took an inch off the sb side and 1/2 inch off the port side. I used an air powered cut-off wheel for this but a hacksaw will work. My alignment was off on the port side (post #19) so I heated the hose with a heat gun to give it a little flex and I loosened up the header bolts as far as possible so I could also tilt the whole thing out to get the tip into the hose. Then I retightened the bolts. I also had to drill a hole in the new shifter bracket and mount the shifter assy different from the instructions so it didn't hit the header. I also had to cut a corner off the new computer bracket so it would clear. You will also need a bunch of black zip ties to keep things clear of the headers. PM or call if you'd like 248-330-0048. Don't expect much more top end but you will feel more midrange punch. Keep us posted with your progress and results.

[Carl C]

carl,
i am having an issue with my cmi install as well. if u could shed some light on this it would be great. i would love to know if i am having the same problem u experienced. i have an 05 aronow 22' classsic with the corsa q and q. my starboard side header is pointing way below the hole for the tip. at first my tech thought it was the flange on the collar piece that connects between the header and the corsa. cmi sent out a new one, but it is still not pointing up enough to have it line up with the hole. so dave and jeffrey (who have been awesome btw) are sending me out a new starboard header. my tech says there is a problem with the weld in the header flange itself. does any of this sound familiar. i thought this was suppose to be just a bolt on, quick retro-fit operation. i see you said you had to cut down ur q and q... where u experiencing the same problems??? any feedback would be greatly appreciated. if u could give me some specifics that would be great. this is the last piece of the puzzle. the imco steering kit is on and i want to hit the water. i was thinking just to rip out the q and q and go without it, but.... Blue, did you get the headers on? What were your results?

[blueliner]

Blue, did you get the headers on? What were your results?

there on and getting ready to water test her... however there is a leak in one of the hoses. did u experience this?? my tech says that since these damn things don't line up like theuy are suppose to.. and all the modifying he had to do to the q and q system as well the hose i guess is just not fitting on there snug. so he is gonna try a different one and hopefully tomorrow it will work??? i hope so. this entire experience has been a nightmare. i have lost my entire summer of boating due to things being ordered and arriving either incomplete or not what i ordered at all. hopefully tomorrow will be the day. i will report as sson as the boat is in the water. any thoughts on the leak?? it's with regards to the pipe to the tip.

[Carl C]

there on and getting ready to water test her... however there is a leak in one of the hoses. did u experience this?? my tech says that since these damn things don't line up like theuy are suppose to.. and all the modifying he had to do to the q and q system as well the hose i guess is just not fitting on there snug. so he is gonna try a different one and hopefully tomorrow it will work??? i hope so. this entire experience has been a nightmare. i have lost my entire summer of boating due to things being ordered and arriving either incomplete or not what i ordered at all. hopefully tomorrow will be the day. i will report as sson as the boat is in the water. any thoughts on the leak?? it's with regards to the pipe to the tip. For almost $5,000 you'd think they would fit better! No I don't have any leaks. Once I finally got the job done the alignment is pretty good. (not perfect) Good luck. I think you will like them once it's done. I picked up a lot of midrange torque but apparently only about 1 mph. I've only tested in hot, humid air though. Please post your results so I can compare with my own.

[BUIZILLA]

$5,000 plus gawd_knows_how_much labor, excessive installation aggravation, and virtually no WOT performance gain??

am I missing something here??

[Carl C]

$5,000 plus gawd_knows_how_much labor, excessive installation aggravation, and virtually no WOT performance gain??
am I missing something here?? For me it is an investment for the future if nothing else. I'm thinking in 1 or 2 years I'll pull my motor and rebuild it beefing it up with some stronger innards and install a pro-charger. Meanwhile I did pick up mid-range punch and they sure look good. I wonder why some people are reporting more top end gain than I am seeing though. Also I still need to test in cooler, thicker air before drawing conclusions. They are a real pain in the butt to install though, especially with Q&Q.

[gcarter]

I, for one, am really surprised you have no desire to try different props.
Understanding hindsight is perfect, if you had tried a handful of props and picked up 1-2 MPH, and this winter the $5K could have gone to a beefier engine.
Oh well......

[Sweet little 16]

I too am puzzled for that kinda money wouldn't a shorty have more return on investment??? I would literally start with the bottom up not the top down
a prop can get you 1 -2 mph a shorty could give a tleast 2-3 mph conservatively I don't think the guy who passes you is going to care how it looks???
you've taken the addage a 1000 dollars = 1 mph and thrown it under the bus

[boxy]

I still need to test in cooler, thicker air before drawing conclusions.

Isn't cooler air thinner ie: less humid.

[CHACHI]

Isn't cooler air thinner ie: less humid.
Cooler air is more dense, ergo more oxygen for combustion.

Ken

[Carl C]

you've taken the addage a 1000 dollars = 1 mph and thrown it under the bus The $$ was just burning a hole in my pocket anyway. :wink:

Cooler air is more dense, ergo more oxygen for combustion.
Ken Yeah, that's my take on it. My best speed yet was 75.6 on a cool, dry day.

[boxy]

Cooler air is more dense, ergo more oxygen for combustion.
Ken
Ahhh I got it now ....

[Carl C]

I, for one, am really surprised you have no desire to try different props.
Understanding hindsight is perfect, if you had tried a handful of props and picked up 1-2 MPH, and this winter the $5K could have gone to a beefier engine.
Oh well...... George, I did not pick up enough rpms to go up in pitch and I'm not aware of a better top end prop than the M+. I'm still thinking about a labbed prop but am concerned about losing durability because of the thinner blades. I guess I could carry an emergency aluminum prop and wrench when on the big lakes. I need to test in cooler weather before addressing the prop. Since my highest rpms yet have been about 4,900 I may need to stick with a 25p even if I go labbed. I'm not sold on the Turbo. What is the best top end prop in your opinion?

[Sweet little 16]

well as long as you have money burning holes in your pocket why go aluminum buy a spare labbed SS wheel ;)

what is the drive ratio on your bravo?

rpms are one small piece of the puzzle slip and handling are the big pieces

when does your rev limiter kick in??

[gcarter]

George, I did not pick up enough rpms to go up in pitch and I'm not aware of a better top end prop than the M+. I'm still thinking about a labbed prop but am concerned about losing durability because of the thinner blades. I guess I could carry an emergency aluminum prop and wrench when on the big lakes. I need to test in cooler weather before addressing the prop. Since my highest rpms yet have been about 4,900 I may need to stick with a 25p even if I go labbed. I'm not sold on the Turbo. What is the best top end prop in your opinion?
I would call Griz....he may have a different opinion than yours. His # is posted in post #37 under the Lake Eufala event.
That aside, I would probably have a labbed prop that worked well for events and something else more durable for every day. Relatively speaking, props are cheap.

[Carl C]

well as long as you have money burning holes in your pocket why go aluminum buy a spare labbed SS wheel ;) I HAVE A SPARE 24 TURBO, IT'S THE WEIGHT I'M THINKING ABOUT.
what is the drive ratio on your bravo? WHATEVER THEY CAME WITH IN '05, 1.5 I THINK.
rpms are one small piece of the puzzle slip and handling are the big pieces
when does your rev limiter kick in?? 5,150 BUT I'VE NEVER COME CLOSE TO THAT.

I would call Griz....he may have a different opinion than yours. His # is posted in post #37 under the Lake Eufala event.
That aside, I would probably have a labbed prop that worked well for events and something else more durable for every day. Relatively speaking, props are cheap. Will do but I still want to test in more normal conditions. It's been hot and really humid here since I did the headers. Kinda like Florida weather! The best I could muster yesterday was 73.6. BTW, no hurry on that cooler weather Mr. Frost.

[blueliner]

Will do but I still want to test in more normal conditions. It's been hot and really humid here since I did the headers. Kinda like Florida weather! The best I could muster yesterday was 73.6. BTW, no hurry on that cooler weather Mr. Frost.
last season, i bought a new prop from brett at bblades. i had a mirage+ 25p and my best was 75.1 mph. so i went to brett and we started with the mirage+ 27p. brett than tweaked it a bit and it got me going 78 mph!!! i was like holy crap for 1000 bucks i gained 3 mph. now i know that is not how it is with every upgrade, but i am hoping to hit 80 mph as soon as this thing hits the water. hope to have it for tomorrow and do a water test.

[yeller]

Blueliner, make sure you post a couple pics. I'd like to see the new pully system you installed.


i have lost my entire summer of boating due to things being ordered and arriving either incomplete or not what i ordered at allI've only been out a couple times myself. Crappy summer this year.

[RickSE]

You know you guys for $10K you probably could have bought a 500EFI and the CMI's would have come with it. Sell the 496 and you're back to $5K :tongue:

Sorry just messin with you guys. :wink: I've been watching the results of this as much as everyone else. Good work guys.

[Carl C]

last season, i bought a new prop from brett at bblades. i had a mirage+ 25p and my best was 75.1 mph. so i went to brett and we started with the mirage+ 27p. brett than tweaked it a bit and it got me going 78 mph!!! i was like holy crap for 1000 bucks i gained 3 mph. now i know that is not how it is with every upgrade, but i am hoping to hit 80 mph as soon as this thing hits the water. hope to have it for tomorrow and do a water test. Now that is mind boggling!:boggled: You are going 78 with a stock motor and can pull a tweaked 27p M+??????????? I'd love to try that prop.

Carl, a more accurate comparison would be the speeds you ran last year in the summer vs the speeds you are running this year.. We ALL have our "bestest ever" speeds tucked away in our memories, but realistacally we should be discussing everyday repeatable speeds, not onesie/twosies...
I don't always turn on the gps but on average I was able to run mid 73s @4,850 rpm pre-headers. (25p M+) Now I am getting a bit more but I'm sure this steamy weather is holding me back a bit. I will purchase a labbed prop and a cheapy aluminum back-up but don't know what to buy yet. Should I go with BBlades or can you sell me a labbed turbo that will be faster? Again, first I need to see where I'm at when this weather breaks a little. Blueliner is running 78 with a tweaked 27p M+!!!!!!!! I'm pulling out what little hair I have left! If he hits 80 with a prop and headers I will be bald.

[blueliner]

Now that is mind boggling!:boggled: You are going 78 with a stock motor and can pull a tweaked 27p M+??????????? I'd love to try that prop.
I don't always turn on the gps but on average I was able to run mid 73s @4,850 rpm pre-headers. (25p M+) Now I am getting a bit more but I'm sure this steamy weather is holding me back a bit. I will purchase a labbed prop and a cheapy aluminum back-up but don't know what to buy yet. Should I go with BBlades or can you sell me a labbed turbo that will be faster? Again, first I need to see where I'm at when this weather breaks a little. Blueliner is running 78 with a tweaked 27p M+!!!!!!!! I'm pulling out what little hair I have left! If he hits 80 with a prop and headers I will be bald.
i have 2 gps's on my boat all the time. so the spped is for real. i have heard great things about the turbo. that it will perform out of the box without any tweaking. again, like many others have stated, my 27p is no longer a 27p it is more like a 28. mirage only makes a 29 and that would have been too much. so brett tweaked the stock prop and now i'm flying. after putting on the headers, who knows... i might have to tweak the prop again. i hope not!!! i just want to boat for the month and half i have left. yeller, never got the pulleys, they were the wrong ones and had to get a credit. maybe next year when i supercharge her, i'll put them in.

[undertaker]

Carl, a more accurate comparison would be the speeds you ran last year in the summer vs the speeds you are running this year.. We ALL have our "bestest ever" speeds tucked away in our memories, but realistacally we should be discussing everyday repeatable speeds, not onesie/twosies...
As far as bang for the buck, I am really curious to see how a 496 classic responds to Stainless Marine manifolds compared to the CMI's.. If someone is interested in trying a set, let me know..


EXACTLY...in my case before Dana Exhaust I ran 72 GPS all day long with a full heavy boat, 74 GPS all day light load (by myself)....with new Dana exhaust picked up about 200-250 RPM a lot more midrange punch, now can run all day 74 heavy, 76 light...

Carl, to me it seems weird that you have not at least picked up a few more RPMS...very odd IMO....but as we now evry 22 classic is different:yes:

Poodle, I to am curious to see how the Stainless Marine exhaust will perform...on a 496 classic..:yes::yes::yes:


Undertaker:pimp:

[undertaker]

Wanted to get to 900 posts........sorry being a post whore :):):):):propeller::propeller::propeller:

[Carl C]

i have 2 gps's on my boat all the time. so the spped is for real. i have heard great things about the turbo. that it will perform out of the box without any tweaking. again, like many others have stated, my 27p is no longer a 27p it is more like a 28. So you're saying that they addedpitch to make it closer to a 28?? Is your motor stock? I believe you but that is pretty amazing!


Carl, to me it seems weird that you have not at least picked up a few more RPMS...very odd IMO.... Yes, indeed it does but I'll wait until I can test in better conditions. If things don't improve then there will be a need for more discussion on this. Yesterday I hit 73.6 with light load, low gas, no passengers, no tab and trimmed up to the ragged edge. Again it was hot and humid. Even though I modified my bow compartment I only added 13 pounds. My anchor is in the engine compartment so there is no extra weight up front. I will test more next week and try to find my missing speed.:boggled:

[Ranman]

Carl,

Why are you so concerned about running a labbed prop? I've run a labbed prop on my 18 for the last 4 or 5 years with no issues and no spare on board. Yes, the blades are thinner (that's where most of the speed comes from), but it's not like they're going to randomly fly off. If you don't "touch" anything with the prop, no worries. If you do touch something, the labbed prop is not going to fair THAT much worse than a stock prop. If you touch something good, a spare prop won't help you anyway. IMO, your over thinking the reliability thing.

As far as the speed gain with the CMI's goes, my theory is that your Q&Q is what is holding you back. The "Y", diverter, flap whatever is causing a restriction and holding you back. My bet is that a non-Q&Q boat will do better with the straight shot exit. Just a theory though.

[RickSE]

Q&Q boats are supposed to be faster then non-Q&Q boats, due to the negative pressure created in the Y-pipe when the diverters are open.

Carl, remember Blueliner is on saltwater with good air at sealevel.

[Carl C]

Carl,
Why are you so concerned about running a labbed prop? I've run a labbed prop on my 18 for the last 4 or 5 years with no issues and no spare on board. Yes, the blades are thinner (that's where most of the speed comes from), but it's not like they're going to randomly fly off. If you don't "touch" anything with the prop, no worries. If you do touch something, the labbed prop is not going to fair THAT much worse than a stock prop. If you touch something good, a spare prop won't help you anyway. IMO, your over thinking the reliability thing.
As far as the speed gain with the CMI's goes, my theory is that your Q&Q is what is holding you back. The "Y", diverter, flap whatever is causing a restriction and holding you back. My bet is that a non-Q&Q boat will do better with the straight shot exit. Just a theory though.What kind of prop do you have? I have heard stories about the blades cracking and I don't suppose it would survive a low speed encounter with a stump like a stock SS prop can. I drive the boat fast and hard and there are harsh re-entries. I will take your advice though and go labbed. I still need more testing before deciding what prop to get. Doesn't labbing add about 300 rpm over the same stock prop? I don't think the butterfly is causing a restriction but there may be turbulence over the "Y". I'm still glad I got the CMIs. It made my boat a midrange rocket! I didn't expect much more top-end after discussing it here first. I will know more when this humidity breaks. More t-storms today and humidity is near 100%.

Q&Q boats are supposed to be faster then non-Q&Q boats, due to the negative pressure created in the Y-pipe when the diverters are open.
Carl, remember Blueliner is on saltwater with good air at sealevel. Now we have the opposite theory. Ya gotta love it! I know the saltwater is good for a couple mph but a 27/28p prop is amazing. I'm thinking a labbed 26p which would mean switching to a turbo.

[yeller]

Blueliner is running 78 with a tweaked 27p M+!!!!!!!! I'm pulling out what little hair I have left! If he hits 80 with a prop and headers I will be bald.Carl, don't feel to bad if you don't match Blueliners #'s. He has probably the fastest stock HO boat documented on this site.
If he hits 80, he'll be very, very close to my speed....and I'm procharged. :boggled:

[Sweet little 16]

Now that is mind boggling!:boggled: You are going 78 with a stock motor and can pull a tweaked 27p M+??????????? I'd love to try that prop.
I don't always turn on the gps but on average I was able to run mid 73s @4,850 rpm pre-headers. (25p M+) Now I am getting a bit more but I'm sure this steamy weather is holding me back a bit. I will purchase a labbed prop and a cheapy aluminum back-up but don't know what to buy yet. Should I go with BBlades or can you sell me a labbed turbo that will be faster? Again, first I need to see where I'm at when this weather breaks a little. Blueliner is running 78 with a tweaked 27p M+!!!!!!!! I'm pulling out what little hair I have left! If he hits 80 with a prop and headers I will be bald.


Carl by your numbers you are at .039 slip not much room for improvement there plus the x is not the same on blueliners boat not an apples to apples comparision but that lends more credibilty to the shorty arguement

[yeller]

Blueliners boat is an AE and has the same X.

[Sweet little 16]

i was lead to believe the ae 22gt shelby all had a raised x??????

[Carl C]

i was lead to believe the ae 22gt shelby all had a raised x?????? The Shelby is raised. The AE/AnniversaryE are not. Saltwater is a factor; ChromeGorilla was hitting 77 or so I believe (100% stock). Yeller, sorry to hear you're not getting out much. I'm practically living on the boat this year. Been on Lake Huron 5 times and Lake St. Clair twice and Lake Oakland about twice a week. A little more testing and I will start a prop thread to decide what prop to order and answer other questions. Meanwhile I'm enjoying all of this discussion. Thanks for the input.

[Sweet little 16]

I knew the 40ths were not raised I thought the aronow editions which then became the 22 gt then the shelby had a raised x??? ummmmmm

[Carl C]

I knew the 40ths were not raised I thought the aronow editions which then became the 22 gt then the shelby had a raised x??? ummmmmm Check out the Corsa cans on the Shelby. They are almost touching the rubrail. None of the other special editions are like that.

[blueliner]

I knew the 40ths were not raised I thought the aronow editions which then became the 22 gt then the shelby had a raised x??? ummmmmm
standard x on the aronow edition... the starboard side header was spraying water out the collar. my tech thought since it wasn't lining up that well that the toque when tightening down was twisting the o-ring. he sent it off to get the collar worked on and we are suppose to try again tomorrow and hope to get her out...but with the way things have been going, i doubt it.

[Ranman]

What kind of prop do you have? I have heard stories about the blades cracking and I don't suppose it would survive a low speed encounter with a stump like a stock SS prop can. I drive the boat fast and hard and there are harsh re-entries.

Labbed Mirage Plus 25P. Other prop is a 24 Hydromotive QIV. I think the stories about the blades cracking are primarily on high HP race boats and surface piercing drives where the prop blade is loaded and unloaded with each revolution. I'm not saying it;s impossible, just not likely to happen given our type of use. My 18's prop has seen plenty of air time going across LSC. The blades of a labbed prop will fold easier than a stocker so I avoid any underwater encounters.

[smokediver]

according to Julie at throttle-up ... thinning the blades only weakens it's tensile strength by 12% .... so the labbed prop really isn't all that weak ....

[Carl C]

Labbed Mirage Plus 25P. Other prop is a 24 Hydromotive QIV. I think the stories about the blades cracking are primarily on high HP race boats and surface piercing drives where the prop blade is loaded and unloaded with each revolution. I'm not saying it;s impossible, just not likely to happen given our type of use. My 18's prop has seen plenty of air time going across LSC. The blades of a labbed prop will fold easier than a stocker so I avoid any underwater encounters. OK, thanks. I was thinking about a factory labbed 25p M+. My max rpms now are about 4,850. I want 5,050. Dyno tests show that that's where peak hp is. My other option might be a 26p Turbo, factory labbed.

according to Julie at throttle-up ... thinning the blades only weakens it's tensile strength by 12% .... so the labbed prop really isn't all that weak ....OK, a labbed prop was my original plan & that's what it will be.