Setting the deck back on...

[Jamesbon]

Saturday n Sunday I managed to foam in empty voids in the hull, finish attaching the fuel fill/vent hoses, clean up in preparation for the deck and set the deck down on the hull. Doesn't sound like much, but it took me close to 14 hours between the two days. With that said, the decks sitting on the hull but I think the deck's length "shrank" by 1/4"... :confused: Actually, with additional clearance grinding to the inside lip of the deck in the bow and stern, she should fit fine. I already spent an hour just cleaning up the rear of the deck lip to sit nice on the transom and started cleaning up the front but was too wiped out to finish.

In the bow pic, you can see the deck's a little "short."

[gcarter]

Looks great Nate!
Did you ever think the day would come?

[Jamesbon]

Thanks George.

I must say George, I had a big smile on my grill as I let the weight off the hoist and the deck sat there on the hull "under her own power." It's probably been 4 years since they "touched." It's been a long road, but as I look back, I'm making progress even though it's slow.

[MOP]

Yeah! Now that the cap is on we all wait with baited breath for test some results! Keep at it Nate!

[Cuda]

Damn! The 22 purchase must have gotten you fired back up! Can't wait to see how it runs......................................I just hope I live that long!:biggrin.:

[MOP]

I think a dozen or so "Swerves" it will be done!

[Trueser]

Wow,

Looks great. Are you going to bolt the deck on?

[penbroke]

Looks fabulous! I can't wait to se it done.


Frank

[superhatz]

So how is the deck attached?.......is it sealed too?

Looks great!.......:)

[Rootsy]

I feel your pain nate....

[RickSE]

Nate, it looks pretty nasty with that surface drive hanging off the back.

Won't this be the first classic Donzi done with a the ext. box? Geoo's didn't have it and Chris hasn't finishd his yet as far as I know.

[Forrest]

It's lookin' nice Nate. Goes to show that there is light at the end of the tunnel!

You'll need to bring her to a Eufaula event.

[The Hedgehog]

Saturday n Sunday I managed to foam in empty voids in the hull, finish attaching the fuel fill/vent hoses, clean up in preparation for the deck and set the deck down on the hull. Doesn't sound like much, but it took me close to 14 hours between the two days. With that said, the decks sitting on the hull but I think the deck's length "shrank" by 1/4"... :confused: Actually, with additional clearance grinding to the inside lip of the deck in the bow and stern, she should fit fine. I already spent an hour just cleaning up the rear of the deck lip to sit nice on the transom and started cleaning up the front but was too wiped out to finish.
In the bow pic, you can see the deck's a little "short."

I discovered that same problem on my X-18. About 1/8" and it required some grinding. I would like to know what caused it. In my situation, it appeared to be a result of the transom work.

[Rootsy]

I discovered that same problem on my X-18. About 1/8" and it required some grinding. I would like to know what caused it. In my situation, it appeared to be a result of the transom work.

when I get around to replacing my replaced transom I'll do it WITH THE DECK ON.... :bonk:

[The Hedgehog]

when I get around to replacing my replaced transom I'll do it WITH THE DECK ON.... :bonk:

And don't use the same folks I used for the glass work!:eek!: The end result is ok but it was hell to get there.

[Jamesbon]

Many thanks to BigGrizzly! He solved the "decks too short" mystery. All I had to do is fasten a "come along," to the inside of the stainless bow eye and wrap a nylon strap around the c0ckpit and pull the deck forward and the bow up till the front of the deck popped over the lip. She's ready for fastening.


Next question. Isn't there a drill/countersink bit (all in one) I can use to drill/countersink the deck lip for fastening to the hull? Is there a special one for fiberglass?


I know it's been addressed a hundred times here, but should I through bolt or just use ss woodscrews? Would a dab of 5200 keep them from backing out???


Edit: looks like the site automatically edited the word "****pit" :bonk: in my post above. Guess we need to come up with a new name for the part of the boat you sit in... or spell it with a ZERO! :boggled:

[gcarter]

Nate, they do make such tools, but they probably won't hold up very well in 'glass. I think you'd be better off w/a handfull of bits and c'sinks and two drills.
I'd consider through bolting at least the ones that are easy to get to. It sure pays off IMHO.

As far as sealants go, ask yourself the question;
"Would you ever want to get it off again???? Or do you just want to keep the water out???"

[Cevert]

You might want to call the tech rep at ITW Plexus about their recommended sealant/adhesive. Last deck I attached I used the blue Plexus, but after speaking with them at IBEX, they've got a newer product out, comes in grey,black and white (if memory is correct) that they recommended over the blue product.

[MOP]

Let the fasteners hold it together, most all sealants will make it a super pain to get apart with out damage. Run a bead along the under side of the joint before the rail goes on.

Phil

[MOP]

The word is now Kockpit!

[hardcrab]

Gaining/losing dimensions is a concern for me also.
I've finished the deck (re cored) which was done on a jig that fit the deck prior to removal.
What I'm wondering about is how to best keep the hull straight and in shape when the stringers get replaced (come spring) ?
How prone is the bottom to flex ?

1966 18' 2+3

[sweet 16 1966]

I recored my 16 a couple years ago and same thing occurred. Mine pulled down as Griz described also.

[penbroke]

If you go with wood screws a dab of silicone on the threads will keep them from backing out.


Frank :cool:

[Jamesbon]

Very good info. fellas! Sounds like thru-bolting where I can, will do, and using silicone on the wood scrrews where I can't thru bolt is the ticket.

I guess I'll bolt her together and seal her up to keep water out. If there's no reason chemically bond the deck/hull I probably won't. Believe me, I have NO plans to ever remove this deck again...

Hardcrab,
The GT bottom was reasonably thick and maintained shape for the most part with partial stringers removed. I did notice though as I transferred the hull from the stands back to the trailer bunks, one of my outside gussets slightly separated from the stringer. I would try support the hull bottom very thoroughly and do all glass work before moving from it's blocks or stands.

NICE ONE MOP!

[BigGrizzly]

Nate the help was my pleasure, I have been around a long time and am willing to spread the knowledge around to save time and heart aches. Now as for sealant any window sealant will work. Don't use 5200. As for through bolts I would use them on at least the rub rails join. as for the counter sink. There are several carbide ones available. The two in ones won't hold up. The counter sink is 82 degrees, not 60 or 90.

[Tony]

When I did my Ski Sporter it became "beamier", making my deck too long.

Run a bead of 4200 on the top of the hull, drop the deck on, then fasten with your screws and thru-bolts. Don't forget to align the heads if possible...there was a very interesting thread on THAT topic!

Last run a good-looking caulk joint (good quality silicone is all you need here) along the underside of the deck where it meets the hull...after all that is where any water will want to intrude during operation. Some say wear a rubber glove and keep a finger dipped in WD-40 to dress up your caulk joint. (Did that sound dirty?)

[Madcow]

Wow, I set my deck back on a couple weeks ago to get some mesurements, and I'll be damned if I didn't have the same problem. I thought it was due to the transom work. Ground a little of both ends to make it fit. Wish I would have known about the come along trick.