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zimm17
05-25-2007, 09:11 PM
Well after several full days of busting knuckles, I have the main blower on. Also did the roller rockers, lower pulley, fuel pump delete, rebuilt my seawater pump seals (blew the oil seal out), and got all the hose/fittings for my fuel system. Eddie marine valve covers showed up today, I need to drill and mount the breathers.

Left to do:

Full fuel system
Front plate and belt drive
throttle body/injectors install
valve covers
wiring harness and ignition (msd)
Plumbing for closed loop cooling
Boost and fuel press gauges

Also a pic of the fuel fittings (brass AN-10 mostly) as well as the pile of parts I still have to work on.

Stay tuned...

Some notes from looking back at the pictures- the nylon 1/8" hose is for the boost gauges, not the fuel supply...It'll be 1/2" from the tank to the rail.
I'm also still working out the crazy jog from the water pump bypass nipple to the nipple on the intake. I have a couple of 45's I'm going to try.
The throttle body and injectors go on after the idle air bypass actuator mount gets welded back on- it broke off.
Dana exhaust ROCKS!!!! no need to remove them to take the valve covers off!

And so far it clears the hatch by 3/4". Hope the flame arrestor doesn't hit...

MOP
05-26-2007, 09:00 AM
You can't beat the bling of those suckers sitting on top, less clutter the a PC. Wonder how the two compare power wise.

mrfixxall
05-26-2007, 10:27 AM
Zimm,,,two words of advise when you put that sucker in the water.......

'' HANG ON''

BigGrizzly
05-27-2007, 06:59 PM
Looking good. My son's has been on for four years, works well.

zimm17
05-27-2007, 09:41 PM
Update: The throttle body and flame arrestor is on- and it all fits under the hatch!!!

I'm working some issues with the the plate that holds the pulleys- the idler pulley rubs on the water pump pulley. I also had to cut 1/2" off the lower corner to clear the power steering belt.

Air bypass bracket is welded back together and installed. Also got the water pump bypass hooked up to the intake.

I'll edit this post tomorrow and throw some more pictures up.

zimm17
05-29-2007, 08:51 PM
Majority of the hard work is done. Still need a few fittings here and there. Waiting on my cool-flex cooling hose. Prop is in the mail. Fuel return line still needs to be plumbed in. Then the wire harness goes in. Also need to plumb the intercooler.

Throttle is working, boost and fuel gauges installed. Fuel system is in.

I had to remove the passenger side exhaust to get the Eddie Marine valve covers on. That's no easy task with my tips offset 1.5".

The most important thing so far is that it all fits under the hatch! I'm so happy about that.

Cuda
05-30-2007, 07:34 AM
The most important thing so far is that it all fits under the hatch! I'm so happy about that.
That was going to be my first question when I read the title of this thread. How much clearance do you have?

zimm17
05-30-2007, 08:17 AM
I have about a little finger's width in there for clearance. Better than my carb did- the Gaffrig 2" arrestor was hitting the hatch with the edelbrock performer rpm airgap intake.

I'm hoping to finish the plumbing today and get started on the wire harness, wiring, and mount the MSD tomorrow.

undertaker
05-30-2007, 08:44 AM
Like the speedo reading...:):):) damn that boat is fast in the driveway.:):)

Cuda
05-30-2007, 09:36 AM
Like the speedo reading...:):):) damn that boat is fast in the driveway.:):)
Imagine how fast it would be sitting on a bar stool!:biggrin.::beer:

zimm17
05-30-2007, 10:54 AM
Wishful thinking. I think the needle goes to the 3 o'clock when there's no signal (cover is over the antenna). I'd have to check the instructions to see for sure.

zimm17
06-01-2007, 03:02 PM
It runs!!!!

I fired it up yesterday after a brief delay of the starter not working. The livorsi neutral safety switch isn't working- that can be fixed later.

A little playing around with the timing and she fired right up and idled like a new car...just a little louder.

I adjusted the fuel pressure regulator to 50psi with the boost reference signal off- and she started loading up pretty good. I checked the plugs and they are sooty (brand new before starting it up). The blower was on a 502 before and the prior owner said even that ran rich.

So the ECU is being next day air shipped to the famous Mark Boos at Precision marine in Lousiana. Big griz as well one of the guys in the boat club here recommended him. He's going to burn me a program to get me close. I'll have to get O2 sensor bungs in my dana risers in order to do any on-water tuning down the road.

The fusion prop showed up today- thanks to big griz again. Monday I should get my pressure relief valve and T-fitting from Hardin marine to plumb in the intercooler.

Left to do is mount the electronics and stuff behind the engine somewhere. I'm going to mount the 50 amp breaker and starter solenoid on the exsisting bracket to the back of the head on the passenger side. The ECU will probably go on the transom. The rest gets the crap zip tied out of it. Computer should be back next tues/wed and water test on thurs!

Here's some photos. You can see my invention for the fuel return line- it goes right into the tank where the breather hose is.

Cuda
06-01-2007, 04:50 PM
Looks killer! Just the bling factor alone is worth it.

Are the risers dry where you plan on putting the O2 bungs? I heard water ruins them.

BigGrizzly
06-01-2007, 07:50 PM
Zim, glade the prop got there one more thing you don't have to worry about. Looks good at this point. Just hope the fuel return dosn't spit out the breather.

p729lws
06-01-2007, 08:44 PM
Just hope the fuel return dosn't spit out the breather.

Was thinking the same thing:confused: Let us know.

zimm17
06-01-2007, 09:59 PM
Was thinking the same thing:confused: Let us know.

I hope not. That's why I have the return flowing straight down into the T-fitting and vent on the side. Hopefully it'll work. It sure would suck to be flowing fuel out the vent the whole time :eek!:

I think it'll work though, but I won't know until I get my ECU back and take the thing out. I didn't notice any leakage while idling in the yard- and I think that's when the return line is sending the most fuel back to the tank.

BUIZILLA
06-02-2007, 06:09 AM
how did it run with the base fuel pressure at the 43# stock setting??

gcarter
06-02-2007, 06:13 AM
Just hope the fuel return dosn't spit out the breather.
Another 90* ell running the vent vertical should help.

zimm17
06-02-2007, 07:26 AM
When I had it at 50psi with the boost signal line off, it settled around 43 with the vacuum line on. Still ran rich. It'll be interesting to see what Mark Boos says the map looks like. The guy I bought the kit from didn't return my call so far- I wanted to know what map was in there.

As for the 90, that's a good idea if any fuel comes out the vent. The vent is a good foot and half straight up from that T so the fuel will really have to climb up.

For the record it's the last time I buy anything used. Despite it being a "complete kit" in "new condition" there were lots of stripped bolt holes from the prior owner jamming SAE fasteners into several metric holes (the whipple is all metric). Even the oil fill cap has the allen hole rounded out. I had to re-tap all the blower to intake bolts holes and use my left over ARP intake bolts to hold down the blower. The MSD harness is butchered so the coil connector isn't even there anymore. Right now the MSD isn't even in the system- I wonder how much good it does. It'll take the $50 harness to install it right.

BUIZILLA
06-02-2007, 07:40 AM
I should have said 43# with the line OFF...

zimm17
06-02-2007, 07:56 AM
OH, did I didn't try that. I don't have the ECU so I can start it up to check. I should have it back tues/weds.

BigGrizzly
06-02-2007, 09:31 AM
Zimm, you got too much time and money init so far do it right and get the harness. as for the fuel return if there are problems, Stainless Marine sells a fuel filler section with a T in it for this purpose. Good luck looking good so far. As for the stripped holes- I hate these guys, they screw it up for the good techs.

tmdog
06-02-2007, 10:45 AM
[QUOTE=BigGrizzly;413249]Zimm, as for the fuel return if there are problems, Stainless Marine sells a fuel filler section with a T in it for this purpose. QUOTE]

The "T" I seen is actually a "Y". The "Y" was easier to install. You cut the fuel vent line and insert the "Y". Then insert the fuel retun to the other leg and the returned fuel flows on an angle to tank. Good luck, Zimm. I hope you don't poop your pants when you open that baby up.:):)

zimm17
06-09-2007, 07:03 AM
I got my ECU programmed by Mark Boos out of precision marine in Louisiana. He was tuning a boat on the James River, so I drove up and met him. Nice fellow.

He told me to take it easy on the boat and don't get into the boost until I get a wide band O2 sensor installed to see what the air fuel ratios are. It's on order.

I took the boat out yesterday for the maiden voyage. It works pretty darn well. Definitely running rich at idle, I have to use a little throttle to get it started and my transom is sooty. Coming on plane at 3000rpm you hear the blower whistle up a little bit (sounds awesome) and pulls 4psi of boost until it's on plane. I only tried cruising at 3000rpm (40mph gps), and 3500 (50mph). It runs great at those speeds and is actually pulling vacuum at cruise.

Monday I'll send my dana marine riser back to them to get an bung installed for the o2 sensor.

I also need to take my livorsi throttle apart and tighten up the tension- the whipple has a strong spring that pull the throttle back slowly- it won't hold position.

My hardin marine pressure blow off valve works great for the intercooler- no water at idle, on plane I see water coming out the dump for it.

Fuel vent doesn't leak fuel- so that's good.

Oil pressure on the engine gets REALLY low when it's warm. Starts at 40psi cold, then drops to 15-20 while running, and like 5psi at idle. That's with straight 40wt. Not much I can do except install a oil temp gauge to see what the issue is. If it's just loose tolerances in the engine- I'll just run her until she breaks.

The fusion prop on the shorty is awesome. Comes right out of the hole and corners like it's on rails. I won't know if the pitch is right until I get the O2 sensor installed. More to follow...

Last Real Texan
06-09-2007, 07:15 AM
I got my ECU programmed by Mark Boos out of precision marine in Louisiana. He was tuning a boat on the James River, so I drove up and met him. Nice fellow.

He told me to take it easy on the boat and don't get into the boost until I get a wide band O2 sensor installed to see what the air fuel ratios are. It's on order.

I took the boat out yesterday for the maiden voyage. It works pretty darn well. Definitely running rich at idle, I have to use a little throttle to get it started and my transom is sooty. Coming on plane at 3000rpm you hear the blower whistle up a little bit (sounds awesome) and pulls 4psi of boost until it's on plane. I only tried cruising at 3000rpm (40mph gps), and 3500 (50mph). It runs great at those speeds and is actually pulling vacuum at cruise.

Monday I'll send my dana marine riser back to them to get an bung installed for the o2 sensor.

I also need to take my livorsi throttle apart and tighten up the tension- the whipple has a strong spring that pull the throttle back slowly- it won't hold position.

My hardin marine pressure blow off valve works great for the intercooler- no water at idle, on plane I see water coming out the dump for it.

Fuel vent doesn't leak fuel- so that's good.

Oil pressure on the engine gets REALLY low when it's warm. Starts at 40psi cold, then drops to 15-20 while running, and like 5psi at idle. That's with straight 40wt. Not much I can do except install a oil temp gauge to see what the issue is. If it's just loose tolerances in the engine- I'll just run her until she breaks.

The fusion prop on the shorty is awesome. Comes right out of the hole and corners like it's on rails. I won't know if the pitch is right until I get the O2 sensor installed. More to follow...


Great project!....I can't wait to hear what the new WOT yeilds....I have a wide band O2 and love the fact that you really can see what is going on, Cheap insurance to say the least....Innovative Motorsports, LM1


Bryan

zimm17
06-10-2007, 07:55 AM
Great project!....I can't wait to hear what the new WOT yeilds....I have a wide band O2 and love the fact that you really can see what is going on, Cheap insurance to say the least....Innovative Motorsports, LM1
Bryan

Yup, I have an LM1 on order. They sent it fedex ground and it takes 6 days to get :confused: from CA. I just hope Dana Marine really gets the exhaust turned around in 3-4 days like they are telling me.

I'm on my 3rd day up here at Lake Anna, enjoying the hotboat meet- I'll pull the riser tomorrow.

undertaker
06-10-2007, 09:02 AM
Yup, I have an LM1 on order. They sent it fedex ground and it takes 6 days to get :confused: from CA. I just hope Dana Marine really gets the exhaust turned around in 3-4 days like they are telling me.
I'm on my 3rd day up here at Lake Anna, enjoying the hotboat meet- I'll pull the riser tomorrow.


Good luck with Dana Marine, they have not been taking care of business IMO on there exhaust stuff.....don't ask me how I know this..:boggled::bonk::boggled:


Undertaker:pimp:

handfulz28
06-11-2007, 11:37 AM
zimm, can I hijack for a sec and ask about your cooling hoses? Anything better/worse than factory hoses (besides price of course)? Please feel free to point me to a link or search term if there's another thread I could read up on.
Thanks,
Michael

MOP
06-11-2007, 12:10 PM
Zimm normally the return can T-ed into the fuel line anywhere before the filter or in many cases right at the filter if it has the extra ports, that would belay any fears of dumping fuel overboard.

Phil

zimm17
06-11-2007, 12:18 PM
zimm, can I hijack for a sec and ask about your cooling hoses? Anything better/worse than factory hoses (besides price of course)? Please feel free to point me to a link or search term if there's another thread I could read up on.
Thanks,
Michael

Sure, I redid all my hoses. I had red goodyear "horizon" hose which is decent stuff, but it's really soft and was abrading through where ever it rubbed on something. The hoses I moved up to are single wire (double wire on the 1 3/4") wound rubber hose with an abrasion proof cover on it. It's pricey- about $4 a foot and a bitch to cut with a hacksaw, but it's bullet proof. It also doesn't kink and makes a pretty tight turn. I got it all at the local hydraulic hose/rubber supply place. Usually buried in the back of an industrial area. Ask for wire reinforced water hose for a boat and they'll point you to the right stuff. You also need heavy duty hose clamps- I got the the screw clamps that are solid- they don't have slits in them- they are much stronger and don't strip out.

handfulz28
06-11-2007, 12:38 PM
Much abliged for the quick response. Even at $4/ft I think that's cheaper than most Merc hoses. Any issues with using a non-preformed hose?

zimm17
06-11-2007, 02:08 PM
No issues. I can even make the tight 180 bend from the steering cooler which faces aft and the hose bends under and comes out the front.

The only tight spot was my lower radiator hose- no way to run a hose not-preformed around the v-belt pulley. I used a cool-flex corrogated copper line which was a $100, but works great.