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Yellowdonzi67
05-24-2007, 06:15 PM
1) What temperature is the absolute max that the thermostat should be opening up?

I replaced mine today but the engine (in the driveway) still gets to around 265 degrees without it opening up. I'm afraid to take it any higher. Last time I was in the water it didn't have problems doing so. I am getting water out of the exhuast.

Its the 302 ford.

2) The outdrive motor stopped working. It just clicks. I picked up another one...same thing...doesn't spin, just clicks. I don't think the motor's burned out...but why would it not spin?

MOP
05-24-2007, 09:25 PM
I would pull the Tstat out and test it in some water on the stove, if you don't have a thermometer then watch it. It should start to open when a little froth forms in the pot and be fully open well before the water boils.

The relay in the box may be shot, it can be replaced with the VW part same number but about 50% cheaper. Look on the casing for the Bosch # you can try auto parts they may have it, but VW will have it for sure.

Phil

Johntrip
05-24-2007, 11:04 PM
I interupt this thread to pay tribute to Mop who is always on standby to contribute the (2cents) your looking for.!!

DON N.
05-25-2007, 11:38 AM
Yes, Phil Is Very, Very, Good ! Thanks Always !

Yellowdonzi67
05-25-2007, 12:37 PM
1) The Tstat passed the stove test. I still can't get it to open in the driveway....I'm afraid to push it any higher then 260 degrees to attempt though. What else could this be from? Manifolds? Is this normal? As i recall it should be opening at a lower temperature...but I could be mistaken.

2) Excuse my ineptitude, but where would i find the relay?


I'd also like to thank MOP and everyone else that provides me with the info I need to do these repairs myself. Bringing this '67 back to turn-key condition has been no small task for me - it is my only direct experience with working on an engine and surrounding systems.

Rootsy
05-25-2007, 12:46 PM
so the thermostat opens on the stove at the rated temperature (160 F thermostat should be open at 160 F) yet the GAUGE on the dash is saying 260? I'd be looking at a new gauge or a new sender.... Trust me, if it is truly 260 there's something much bigger at work here, especially if there is an ample flow of water from the exhaust...

Yellowdonzi67
05-25-2007, 12:55 PM
thats what i'm worried about....

last time i was on the water it had no problems opening, but that was 2 months ago. I also can't get it out on the water until i get all this old gas out, something I'm waiting on my mechanic to help me with (he's got the means to get the gas out, and dispose of it). Probably early next week. If i recall correctly in years past it wouldn't be a problem to get the tstat to open in the driveway.

Once i figure this outdrive motor thing out I should be able to focus solely on getting her back in the water to find out in I'm actually in hot water or not (bad pun intended).

penbroke
05-25-2007, 01:18 PM
2) ... but where would i find the relay?

It's (they) are on the tilt shaft housing. Same piece the motor is on. It IS the thing that is clicking. Usually a plastic cover over them. Check the end of travel micro-switch too. It's on the top end of the same housing.


Phil's Rep Power should actually be 34 but it won't go that high.


Frank

Yellowdonzi67
05-25-2007, 01:21 PM
ok, so i think the tstat is opening when it should be.

I think its just that the hose isn't providing enough water to cause the temperature to "rise and drop" like it would in the water, its just sitting at a constant (and good) temperature. Once the engine cools a little I'm going to disconnect the hose from the outdrive and feed the hose directly into the system.... see if thats the issue.

any tips or tricks for increasing the suction out of my water pump? Its got a brand new impeller in it.


I also still need to figure out the outdrive motor problem.

Thanks again for your help!

Yellowdonzi67
05-25-2007, 01:28 PM
It's (they) are on the tilt shaft housing. Same piece the motor is on. It IS the thing that is clicking. Usually a plastic cover over them. Check the end of travel micro-switch too. It's on the top end of the same housing.
Phil's Rep Power should actually be 34 but it won't go that high.
Frank

After a quick lunch break I'm going to go back out and take a looksy for it.

MOP (or anyone else that can answer), would a VW dealer have the part in stock or should i order it from somewhere (providing I can actually find it :))

MOP
05-25-2007, 02:17 PM
This may sound dumb but some Tstat housings will allow you to put the Tsat in up side down, that can kill its function I thought of that early on but thought no way. The electric parts Frank & I are speaking about are under the black cap on the trim assy. If you have some fairly heavy test jumper wires you can disconnect the motor leads and supply current direct to bypass the switches to see if in fact the motor and tilt assy are working Ok. That is usually one of the first things I do as the switches and motor brushes seem to be most of the electrical woes. If you are on your second motor and still clicking it should be in the switches.

Phil

Yellowdonzi67
05-25-2007, 03:58 PM
This may sound dumb but some Tstat housings will allow you to put the Tsat in up side down, that can kill its function I thought of that early on but thought no way. The electric parts Frank & I are speaking about are under the black cap on the trim assy. If you have some fairly heavy test jumper wires you can disconnect the motor leads and supply current direct to bypass the switches to see if in fact the motor and tilt assy are working Ok. That is usually one of the first things I do as the switches and motor brushes seem to be most of the electrical woes. If you are on your second motor and still clicking it should be in the switches.
Phil

Yeah last time my father put the tstat in, he did it upside down...been there done that :) I made sure the new one went in the same way as the old one (correctly). Connecting the garden hose directly into the water system confirmed that everything is working well.

As for the motor, I'm going to go out and check those switches now. Thanks for all your help i will let you know what i find.

Yellowdonzi67
05-25-2007, 06:07 PM
I took the cap off. this is what it looks like.....this is correct isn't it?


Will i be replacing the whole box or just a part of it?

Thanks

Yellowdonzi67
05-25-2007, 06:08 PM
also, as a side question, where can i find the hull number on this baby?

MOP
05-25-2007, 08:06 PM
Last question you can try looking by the bow eye and the back side of the dash.

If you look at the mess under that cover you will see two square black cubes, the are relays they have numbers embossed in the plastic covers. The longer gray rectangle is the limit switch it is also a common micro switch with values marked on its side. Before you unhook any go over all connections carefully make sure they are clean and tight, check voltage at the box and coming into the box when you hit the switch (I hope you have a meter if not $10 Radio Shack will do). Next put a jumper wire across the poles on the limit switch and give the tilt a try, like Frank says they can be the culprit. Next step you need help for a minute, put your fingers on the relays and have someone tap the tilt switch. The one that snaps under you finger is the one in question, you can swap them from side to side they are the same, see if the tilt works.

Phil

Yellowdonzi67
05-25-2007, 08:24 PM
Thanks so much. I'm going to try first thing in the morning.

You say that if i need to replace any of them I can get them at a VW parts distributor?

I also think that my old motor is probably still good. No sense replacing it as its only 2 months old.

MOP
05-25-2007, 09:07 PM
My local auto parts stocks them, but VW is a for sure!

Lenny
05-25-2007, 11:06 PM
...excuse my ignorance about motor stuff... but, IF he has raw water cooling, then who cares about a T-stat ???

I run without one...

Your thoughts and valued educations are much appreciated...

hardcrab
05-26-2007, 05:57 AM
...excuse my ignorance about motor stuff... but, IF he has raw water cooling, then who cares about a T-stat ???
I run without one...
Your thoughts and valued educations are much appreciated...
The theory of the T- stat is to actually retard the flow of the water so that it can absorb heat. If water rushes thru the system too quickly, heat transfer isn't very effective.