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View Full Version : I Found My Water Leak - Need Info Please



Carl C
05-23-2007, 04:53 PM
My leak is from a crack in the transom plate. Is that the correct name for the part that bolts to the transom? It is visible in pic 1 with the epoxy dripping down from it. I put epoxy over the crack and the leak stopped but it is, of course, not a permanent repair. Insurance will cover replacing the part. Is it correct that the engine must come out to replace this part? Someone had mentioned that the plate could be changed without removing the engine by drilling two holes but that this should not be done. Where and why would the holes be drilled? Why shouldn't it be done this way? I was also wondering if the crack could be welded with the plate in place if care was taken to keep the surrounding area from getting too hot? (wet rags could be held in place near the repair) Thanks.

need for speed
05-23-2007, 05:10 PM
That sucks .. sorry!!:(

mrfixxall
05-23-2007, 05:36 PM
My leak is from a crack in the transom plate. Is that the correct name for the part that bolts to the transom? It is visible in pic 1 with the epoxy dripping down from it. I put epoxy over the crack and the leak stopped but it is, of course, not a permanent repair. Insurance will cover replacing the part. Is it correct that the engine must come out to replace this part? Someone had mentioned that the plate could be changed without removing the engine by drilling two holes but that this should not be done. Where and why would the holes be drilled? Why shouldn't it be done this way? I was also wondering if the crack could be welded with the plate in place if care was taken to keep the surrounding area from getting too hot? (wet rags could be held in place near the repair) Thanks.


Do it the rite way and they will have to pull the engine AGAIN!! That really sucks and looks like you will be with out your boat again...dont let them bs you. Have them order the part first then make sure its a new part their putting on this time, this way you can still use your boat....If they tell you its going to take a few weeks tell them bull s__t.. I can get it done in a day if i wanted to... No you can not weld it on the boat,,its alunimum and to tig it you have to get it vary hot to get the alunimum to flo and you have to keep cleaning the serface or else the weld will pin hole...also the heat will burn yout paint or gel..
Good luck again

gcarter
05-23-2007, 05:58 PM
Carl, it is called a gimbal housing. This CAN be welded in that area. I know because I've had it done before. Make sure the welder is qualified. You don't necessarily have to remove the engine. The engine can be hung, esential parts disconnected, and moved forward about 6"-8". This will give you, or a shop, room to unbolt the inner plate and remove the housing. After it's welded, the welded area can be ground and sanded smooth and then refinished.
If the Insurance Co. chooses to replace w/new, see if you can get your hands on this one, I might buy it from you.

MOP
05-23-2007, 06:45 PM
Carl back to square 1 ! ! ! Get hold of Progressive the repair was not done satisfactorily, a more complete inspection should have been done. If you have problems it may be time to call your states insurance board. But do that quietly let them contact your insurer, put a little sweat on their brow! A few things did not come out smelling right throughout this ordeal of yours.

Phil

Carl C
05-23-2007, 06:51 PM
OK, thanks. If the part has to come off anyway then it should be replaced with a new one. I'd still like to know about the hole drilling thing that Harbormaster had warned me about so that I'll know how to tell if they do that. The good thing is that the boat is driveable and I can get by awhile with epoxy until the shop is ready. I was out the last two days, weather's been great and the boat's running good.:boat:Mop, I've already contacted the insurance adjuster about it and there shouldn't be a problem. I've made a few waves at Progressive and their attitude seems a little better.

handfulz28
05-23-2007, 09:35 PM
With regards to drilling two holes, I'm guessing the reference was actually for replacing the upper swivel shaft. Not applicable to this fix.

Ranman
05-23-2007, 10:17 PM
Drilling the holes is a method to be able to fix the gimbals (swivels) when they're worn to avoid removing the gimbal housing (read R&R engine). For a cracked gimbal housing, the gimbal housing has to come off so therefore the engine has to come out.

Carl C
05-24-2007, 09:19 AM
OK, that's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks much.

ThunderMarineDave
05-24-2007, 11:22 AM
Drilling the two holes to get access to the swivel pin and arm is a factory approved procedure - they sell a kit which has a template for where to drill and two plugs for the holes when you are done. Again, this doesn't really apply to your situation (as you need to remove more than the steering arm...)

Yes, the motor has to come out (as you won't be able to get to the bolts from the inside, and even if you could the motor would fall into the bilge once they were removed).

If you need one, I have a couple of complete transom assemblies (new), and will sell them for over $1000 below listed dealer cost, $3000 below listed retail (and I can get one to you in a couple of days).

-David
THUNDER MARINE
800-984-3098