Opinions on these Drives

[Ranman]

Hi everybody. As some of you already know, I am in the market for a new boat. I'm looking primarily at 27' - 31' Cruisers. I have found a boat of particular interest, however, I need a few opinions.

The boat is a 2001 Chaparral 300 Signature. It has Merc 5.0L EFI's with Bravo Twos. Since I've never owned a boat that lives in a slip during the season, I'm struggling with some of the aspects of the boat.

Please take a look at the attached photos. These Bravo's look like they have taken a pretty substantial corrosion hit. While they don't look great to me, I've seen many others that are much worse. Are these drives in normal, OK shape considering the boat is in a slip all season? Obviously, I would change the zincs and check out the Mercathode system, but is there anything else I should do to at least stop the corrosion from continuing? Should these drives and gimbals be wire brushed or sanded and then re-painted? Can this be done with them on the boat? Will I see a 5-7 MPH increase if I awitch IMCO shorties? (just kidding, want to see who's reading this)

This boat needs a little TLC overall, but comes at a good price assuming the drives and running gear are OK moing forward.

[Ranman]

Here's a few other shots of the boat in question.

[smokediver]

I/O's just don't do well when kept in the water . I think they use magnesium in fresh water for annode protection .. if you could get in and out storage it would probably come close to paying for itself with the extra headaches you are gonna have ... i am speaking from a saltwater point of view ...

[Ranman]

Thanks Smoke. I do only boat in fresh...

[realbold]

Good lookin boat. From NC, probably in salt? Drives can be sanded and painted while on the boat but you wont be able to do a very good job on the gimbal assy without taking it apart.

[gcarter]

This happens also when boats are kept in marinas where you and your neighbors are using shore power.
The neighbor w/o a good bonding system will cause the damage.
You can, after removing the drives, remove the bell housings (and replace the bellows while your at it) and get to a good bit of the gymbal assembly to repair it.
But once you get in there as far as you can, you'll wish you had pulled the engines and done it right.
Rootsy knows how to refinish them correctly. His methods will go a long way to preventing this from happening again.

[Cuda]

I agree with gcarter. It looks like stray electricity in the water at a marina did it.

[MOP]

All in all 5 years they do not look all that bad. I have painted many on the boat it works if you take the time you will get a job that lasts, 99% of our clients would not got the cost of full removal. The boat looks to be in good condition, I would give a go at a decent on the boat job on the gimbles. When I say decent it means a complete strip down that only leave the shields in place the rest is off and on the bench. You will probably find a bit more that needs attention once the gimbles are pulled out of the shields. If you want to chew on this a bit PM me. Mercothode is worth buying!

Phil

[BUIZILLA]

looks like it needs a pair of labbed M+ props... :tongue: