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Barry Eller
03-08-2007, 07:40 PM
I ran my boat last Friday and the engine developed a skip at 4000 RPM's and wouldn't turn much more. I removed the fuel/water separator filter and poured it into a bowl...it had a good amount of water in it.
I have been using StarTron Enzyme Fuel Treatment, but with the new gasoline blends (E-10) water is still going to be a problem for us boaters.
My next step before installing a new water/separator filter is to siphon the bottom of my fuel tank with a gasoline approved hose and pump.
My plan is to remove the access plate at the fuel shut off valve in the floor locker. That should be simple enough. But before I remove the ring assembly, is there a gasket or is a fuel proof sealant available to reseal the assembly upon reinstall?
If I need a new gasket or seal, where can I buy one.

Is there a large enough opening in this area too do this or should I go into the tank with my hose somewhere else?


Any other ideas and suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks
Barry

DON N.
03-08-2007, 11:58 PM
I Had Water In My Gas A Couple Years Ago And The Rubber "0" Ring
On The Screw In Gas Cap Was Missing .

Barry Eller
03-09-2007, 06:45 AM
You can pull the filler hose off and access it there..
Was the water yellow looking??
Fuel is going to be a bear from now on IMO.. I add stabil to every tank, and run nothing but Racor elements in my boats.. Be glad we do not have fiberglass tanks...


I didn't pay attention to the water color...what would yellow water indicate?

I'm using the StarTron with each fuel fill up...but I haven't let the fuel get below 1/2 tank in a long time. There has to be a lot of sediment in the bottom that needs to be pumped out. I'll go through the filler hose port as you suggested... If I can get my fat ass up to it!! I've been a pig this winter and have lost my figure!

Thanks for the information on the Turbo Props...

DonziDave
03-09-2007, 08:15 PM
I pump my tank dry at the end of each season. I tilt the bow up so the fuel is at the rear of the tank where the fuel pick-up tube is located. After I remove the pick-up, I insert a small hose that is rigged to an impeller type pump
powered by a cordless drill. Easy access with no gaskets to replace. I've been lucky...21 year old tank and so far, no rust or scale in the pump out.
I'm with the rest of you guys...I think we are in for a lot of problems with the new gas blends. :boggled:

Dave

Barry Eller
03-09-2007, 09:23 PM
I pump my tank dry at the end of each season.
Dave

I think that is a good idea and probably is going to be the best thing for the Northern Boaters to do as a winterizing procedure. I think with the way the new gasoline is behaving, storage with a empty tank with a "drier" of some sort (something like the silica packets in a lot of products we purchase) suspended in the tank, easily removed before refueling after storage may be the answer.

Any other ideas?

maddad
03-10-2007, 02:47 AM
I've always stored the boat with the tank full of stabilized high octane, thinking that no air means no condensation.
It's worked well so far. When I start using the boat again, I wait till I've replaced half the old stuff before the real abuse begins.