View Full Version : Timing module
Does anyone know the total advance of this module?
Joe do you have it in hand? If so you can hook it up, put a timing tape on the harmonic balancer, start it up and set base timing at 8 degrees then bring the RPM up the pack will go to its max at guess about 3000. You will see on the timing tape what the max is.
Phil
Well, I never did figure what the total advance is for that module, but I swapped out with the one that wasn't advancing. I finally got a chance to fire it up today, and at least I know it is advancing. Debbie just ran down to get the sticker for it (forgot it's registered in her name), and we're going to splash it and see what it will do now.
No freaking joy yet. :bonk:
It idled fine, and ran up to 3500 fine, but when I opened it up, it got a BAD miss at about 4000. I was afraid it was advancing too much, so I took it easy back to the dock. I guess I'm going to have to buy one of those tapes that goes around the harmonic balancer with all the degrees on it. :(
Joe measure your balancer across and go buy it to match that size, the factory marks only allow guess work. Hook up the timing light at the dock and bring the RPM up until the advance stops moving, crack the distributer loose and set the top time at 30-31 degrees. If that don't cure it move on to carburation!
Phil
98shovel
03-10-2007, 10:55 AM
buy a dial back timing lite then u dont need the tape and it can be used on any motor
buy a dial back timing lite then u dont need the tape and it can be used on any motor
I guess that shows how long it's been since I've done a lot of work on engines. A tool like this didn't even exist back when I was doing a lot of wrenching. I just looked on ebay, and there are tons of them.
Dial backs are nice but what many do not realize is is the dial back feature is a rheostat. No question they are mostly spot on or very close but it the very close part has always bothered me on an engine that you are trying for spot on results. On any hi perf engine I have either used the tape or like on my stroker a degreed wheel, both erase the close factor, I replaced two Snap On's due to the rheostat going out of tolerance by several degrees. Tapes are cheap and spot on!
Phil
Dial backs are nice but what many do not realize is is the dial back feature is a rheostat. No question they are mostly spot on or very close but it the very close part has always bothered me on an engine that you are trying for spot on results. On any hi perf engine I have either used the tape or like on my stroker a degreed wheel, both erase the close factor, I replaced two Snap On's due to the rheostat going out of tolerance by several degrees. Tapes are cheap and spot on!
Phil
The digital lights do not use a rheostat anymore.
Get a new Snap-on light that is digital.
The digital lights do not use a rheostat anymore.
Get a new Snap-on light that is digital.
Like this Ted?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=003&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=130086975682&rd=1&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=014&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=330095970872&rd=1&rd=1
98shovel
03-10-2007, 03:52 PM
cuda
ive got a snap onn light a little different then that one and its right on bene checked against degree wheel and degreed balancer and was right on the money .
cost me about 400 bucks but has taken lots of abuse both in the boat running wot and at the drag strip
May be time to retire my old light for a new one, I stand corrected thanks for the update!
Like this Ted?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=003&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=130086975682&rd=1&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=014&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=330095970872&rd=1&rd=1
Yes sir.
My old Snap On with the rheostat checked out perfectly against a tape on several occasions.. It disappeared and I assumed it stolen out of my shop.. About 2 years later, I broke down and bought the digital.. 4 months later my neighbor returned my old one :bonk: :bonk:
Cuda, if you can wait a few days I could UPS it to ya, your welcome to use it.. Just return it before two years please... :D :D :D
I'd appreciate it Scott. Maybe I'll be done by Dora, after all, this ain't Nate.:wink: :)
Excellent the "Fuzzy One" comes through can't beat that one Joe!
BUIZILLA
03-10-2007, 07:00 PM
I'd lend ya mine, but it has a lot of blood on it...
damn reverse rotation inboards...
Scott, I received your timing light today. I think Heidi took the wrong one to send me. This one is not a dial type, it's computerized. I'll be sure to replace it with a dial type when I return it. :)
Now, I just have to have Debbie home long enough to hook up the 22 and pull it out of the garage. While I have it, I'm going to check the timing on the 302 also. The guy who sold it to me said he had turned the timing back just to be safe if it got old gas in it.
Roadrunner
03-14-2007, 06:06 PM
I have a feeling your problem is in the distributor it self, not the control box or maybe it is a carburation problem. I personaly don't think that box has much to do with total ignition timing.
It's a brand new distributor, that has a TB V module on it. It may have something to do with the fact the engine doesn't have a knock sensor on it. With the light, and can find out how much it's advancing, and at what rpm.
I have a feeling your problem is in the distributor it self, not the control box or maybe it is a carburation problem. I personaly don't think that box has much to do with total ignition timing.
Merc does all of its timing in the pack, the distributer does not have any means of advancing. There are several variations on the advance rates for different apps.
Phil
Qoute Joe: I'll be sure to replace it with a dial type when I return it. Joe who needs all that fancy stuff send him back a cold light:wink:
Roadrunner
03-14-2007, 07:43 PM
Thanks I figured this worked like a standard big block Chevy.
justleft
03-15-2007, 11:18 AM
Make sure the ignition module has a really good engine ground.
A poor ground will cause allot of problems. An open ground will
usually fry the module. I've seen this a few times. Mostly when
someone relocates the module because of headers.
bob
Okay, here's the deal. I'm running 37 degrees total timing most of the time. Sometimes above 2000 rpm, the timing will bounce back and forth, retarding and advancing. I can't make rhyme or reason why. Also, grounding that wire from the module doesn't make any difference at all. I think it will run fine at 37 degrees, but I don't know why it's bouncing sometimes. I'm sure it's something to do with not having a knock sensor.
justleft
03-15-2007, 09:01 PM
Pickup in the distributor, loose or flakey ? Wiring between the dist and module ?
Very worn gear or pin or shaft on the dist ? Timing chain, the chain drives the cam which drives the dist.
But then it's the same signal that runs your tach. Is the tach bouncing or reading funny ?
Take the cap off of the dist and see if you move the rotor more then a couple of degrees.
If this module uses a knock sensor then you may have to ground that lead so it doesn't pick up random electric noise as being a knock.
I don't know the Merc unit but most will knock a couple of degrees off every time they hear a knock.
Pickup in the distributor, loose or flakey ? Wiring between the dist and module ?
Very worn gear or pin or shaft on the dist ? Timing chain, the chain drives the cam which drives the dist.
But then it's the same signal that runs your tach. Is the tach bouncing or reading funny ?
Take the cap off of the dist and see if you move the rotor more then a couple of degrees.
If this module uses a knock sensor then you may have to ground that lead so it doesn't pick up random electric noise as being a knock.
I don't know the Merc unit but most will knock a couple of degrees off every time they hear a knock.
It's a brand new TB V distributor. I'll check all the connections, although I'm sure I made all good ones.
Today I set the timing to 32 total, which is 8 initial. It didn't seem to jump around today, but it damn sure slowed down when I grounded that white/purple wire from the module, and the timing retarded. I think what was happening before was I had that wire just sort of hanging so I could ground it easy, and it must have been touching ground occasionally. I have a male type push fitting on that wire, to make it easy to ground, so I'll just stick a female connector on it not attached to anything. We'll see.
Poodle, that light is the shizzinizle! I told Debbie next time I have a birthday, or Christmas and she doesn't know what to get me, I want one of those lights!:yes:
BigGrizzly
03-18-2007, 10:00 AM
Cuda don't tell deb but you should buy it for her birthday! That way you can play with it too. You would be surprised what my wife has:wink: .
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