Painting outdrives...?

[Jamesbon]

So here I sit with my prepped drive (zinc chromate) and just got quoted $275.00 for a professional paint job in Awlgrip... :eek!:

My painter says he'd strip the drive and prime w/epoxy primer and shoot w/ Awlgrip...for $275.

....U know me.....just bought a Sharp Finex 300 HVLP gun for 85 bucks on Ebay and am looking for your advice on painting this thing.

I guess shooting Merc. black enamel in the spray can over the green "chromate primer" is out. Is it?

Can I shoot Awlgrip, Imron or PPG over the green "chromate?" Or should I strip, prime and paint in something "real?" If so, what should I do? I want it to look good and will spend a little time doing so, but don't want to approach the point of diminishing returns. What's the best bang for the buck?

FWIW, just got the oil cooler and tranny cooler lines installed. Goodyear tire n rubber custom made them to the tune of $250.

[gcarter]

Hi Nate, take a look at;
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36526
and what I did in the response from Rootsy (included).
So maybe the answer isn't plain ZC, but the primer should have a lot of ZC in it.
This drive lower died, it lasted almost two years and in that time, while the top coat did ablait off the leading edge of the gear case (only a small amount) the primer NEVER wore through.
Rootsy and I were using almost identical products produced by different suppliers (PPG vs. BASF) and the results were very similar.
If you were to look at my gymbal housing today, it looks almost identical to the results I had almost three years ago.

[gcarter]

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24272&d=1159816499

This picture was taken last October and while the drive has been changed the entire gymbal assembly (gymbal housing, ring and bell housing are the same finish. It still looks pretty darn good.

[Jamesbon]

Thanks George. Nice Job! I would be happy with a finish equivelant to that.

So well put... "if it weren't a hobby, it would hardly be worthwhile."

Couldn't think of a better way to say it!

Like you, the thing is assembled, so I gotta work with what I have at hand.

More input fellas, please....

[Rootsy]

If you are going to use a "professional" paint... MAKE DARN SURE you use the specified primer beneath it... i shot some DCC Concept on bare aluminum as a touch-up and blend after my incident with the log @ Cumberland... i made two passes at speed and it peeled right off... had to sand it back to aluminum / primer... reprime and then topcoat.. DCC NEVER came off of my SS when applied properly over DPLF expoxy... even with some time in the upper 70's to lower 80's... FWIW, i never really did let the boat sit in the water for more than a day or two... she was a trailer queen when not in use...

Awlgrip 2000 or DCC Concept are the top candidates for the color on the "Red Mistress" at the moment...

[Surfer]

Shot my Volvo about two years ago, with no problems, but had some assitance from a pro. Awlgrip makes a product called "alumaprep" which is at the ZC stage, then as stated above use the proper awlgrip prime, and lots of it. The prime is thick and sandable for any little imperfections. Then the color. I beach alot, and haven't even scuffed it yet.

[Tim Morris]

George,

What are we looking at for a prop in post #3?

What is it? How do you like it? What have you
found to be best for your Minx?

[gcarter]

If you are going to use a "professional" paint... MAKE DARN SURE you use the specified primer beneath it... i shot some DCC Concept on bare aluminum as a touch-up and blend after my incident with the log @ Cumberland... i made two passes at speed and it peeled right off... had to sand it back to aluminum / primer... reprime and then topcoat.. DCC NEVER came off of my SS when applied properly over DPLF expoxy... even with some time in the upper 70's to lower 80's... FWIW, i never really did let the boat sit in the water for more than a day or two... she was a trailer queen when not in use...
My R-M dealer told me the same thing!!!
The magic is in the epoxy primer. On metal parts you need a color primer w/some ZC in it. The light colored (like white) primers probably don't have any ZC in it.
BTW, my hull and outdrive are painted w/ the same products. They've been in salt water for between 3-4 days at a time with no issues. These products are very scratch resistant and will never embarrass you. When I'm in a hurry to clean up the boat, I wipe it down with a soft rag and Acetone. No kidding. That step removes any oxydation w/o removing or softening the paint.
Acetone and a rag will also clean the red PC rub rail. (don't confuse laquer thinner and Acetone....there is a difference) Caveat......always try stuff like this in an inconspicuous place....your products may be different, I do know Acetone will have little or no effect on (BASF) R-M UNO products and also the products my local PC guy applied.

[gcarter]

George,
What are we looking at for a prop in post #3?
What is it? How do you like it? What have you
found to be best for your Minx?
Tim, that is a 15" X 22" Hydro Q4. It works EXCEPTIONALLY well on everything except top speed. I think if it were a 23" or 24" and had a little work done on it, I'd be happier with it.
Dr. Big Grizzley dropped off some props for me to try as soon as I'm able to negotiate boating.....maybe in about three weeks.
Anyway I'm looking forward to trying some of Grizz's wheels.

[smoothie]

I used PPG a few years back per Scott Pearson...still looks like new...

See threads:

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1628&
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31408&

[98shovel]

if u have etch primer on it already u can scuff sand it and put epoxy or some other primer over it without any problems and then continue painting
i would scuff with red scotch brite shoot epoxy as a wet on wet sealer then paint and clear if that is your plan or just use single stage with no clear

[Jamesbon]

Thank you fellas for the input, this is exactly what I was looking for.

So if I "scratch" my existing green ZC coat and apply the corresponding "Awlgrip epoxy primer," do you think it will stick good enough? If so, I can simply shoot black Awlgrip over that.

What's involved in finishing the last coat of Awlgrip? Does it need to be buffed, or is it all done once it dries? I want it to look good, but am not thrilled with the idea of buffing and such. (don't have a buffer anyway...)

[gcarter]

Mine was a two part, single stage, and "as sprayed".
Believe me Nate, I'm no painter.

[Rootsy]

Thank you fellas for the input, this is exactly what I was looking for.
So if I "scratch" my existing green ZC coat and apply the corresponding "Awlgrip epoxy primer," do you think it will stick good enough? If so, I can simply shoot black Awlgrip over that.
What's involved in finishing the last coat of Awlgrip? Does it need to be buffed, or is it all done once it dries? I want it to look good, but am not thrilled with the idea of buffing and such. (don't have a buffer anyway...)

personally i'd ask Awlgrip if the primer will "stick" to that substrate... Do they have literature like PPG does for each product which tells you just about everything you need to know to get going?