Serpentine belt drive Ford Small Block -- Questions!

[mphatc]

I'm converting my 302 to a closed loop cooling set up , serpentine belt, with a Bravo . . which means I need to run 2 water pumps .:confused: . 1 to circulate, 1 to supply cooling water . . Is this correct?

Is an electric pump reliable for cooling circualtion?
Do I need to run a pressure relief valve and a dump port on the cooling supply?
My PS Pump set was a BMW M5 pump, no cooling! and it never ran hot! But this set up is not easily compatible with a Serpentine belt drive . .
Will I need PS cooling ?
I'm looking at March Performance for the Serpentine set up . . any thoughts on this hardware.
Any and all help is appreciated!
Mario
sinking more money :)

[gcarter]

Mario, I've had excellent results with my Meziere electric pump. It has a 3000 hour life expectancy. It supplies 55 GPM and draws only 12 Amps which means it's extremely efficient. I happen to know they supply a SBF pump that mounts in the stock location. It also supplies a heater bypass.

[zimm17]

Why couldn't you use a factory water pump for the circulating pump? It'll have antifreeze in it so it doesn't need to be "marine". Even an aluminum pump would work. Your existing raw water pump will supply the heat exchanger and then dump out through the exhaust.

You might be able to use junkyard '86-'93 mustang brackets and pulleys. Then you'll have to fab something up to get the raw water pump into the spot of the smog pump bracket. You could also use a ford steering pump that will fit right in the ford bracket too.

I have a 5.0 ford engine in my jeep and the serpentine setup works great there. It looks like they run the a/c condenser as an idler pulley. Or you could put the raw water pump in it's place.

[BigGrizzly]

You can. I have used the factory circ pumps on all my applications. However George's is a neet system and no belt.

[vonkamp]

If you go the Meziere route (I am) the part # is MEZ-WP311. Summit has the best price. They show up on eBay once in a while but the bidding goes to within about $50 of a brand new one. Not worth the risk for me.
I am also going with a crank mounted pump to supply the cooling water so the only belt I will have is the alternator.

[gcarter]

Do I need to run a pressure relief valve and a dump port on the cooling supply?
Maybe it would be a good idea. I don't have one, and I always have 1 or 2 gallons of water in the bilge when I pull the boat out. It's leaking somewhere. I haven't had the opportunity to get down in the engine compartment while underway.
BTW, it DOES NOT leak while stationary, only under way.
It really hasn't been a big deal.

[mphatc]

George,

I had the same thing, and it was related to the brass cover - teflon gasket on the water pump . I recall you posted me aabout the O-ring covers I am making for these . it's in process!

So . . can I inject this bypass stream of water into the exhaust close to the transom ? I don't want to drill another hole in the transom . .although that would be easier.
Mario

[MOP]

Mario the best place to take the over pressure water from is just after the pump so it is still cool then route it to a drive cap, there are a few decent valve about a third the price of the Merc unit.

Phil

[BigGrizzly]

Since you do not have a Bravo it would be impossible to put the relief valve before the pump where it is suppose to be. You don't want the belt to be subject to excessive water pressure either. The real issue is with transom or hull pickups. on re-entry. The closed cooling system alleviates most of the dangers of high pressure on the engine primarily the head gaskets or a inlet water hoses blowing off. I have three boats all with closed cooling systems and non have a pressure relief valve. My big boat runs in the 80's and water pressure is monitored all the time with a gage and it never has been a problem as it was without the closed cooling system and it does have a transom pickup. My suggestion is forget the relief valve. George check your hoses after the raw water pump and your quick and quiet if you have one, mine leaks. Also the sea strainer.

[gcarter]

One thing I really like about my closed cooling and the electric circ pump is instead of the coolant temp skyrocketing after slowing down from running hard, it comes down instead because the coolant flow is continuous and doesn't slow when the engine speed comes down.

[mphatc]

Randy, I do have a Bravo . . after 35 hours use there were signs that my water pressure in the block was to high, I had rust stains at the threaded in freeze plugs, and moisture at several other joints . .I was also never able to get this engine to run at 180 degrees . .:confused:

I also had signifigant belt wear for 35 hours use . .but the water pump was crank driven, and this was from the PS and alternator belts. As I'm sure anyone with an old H&M set up changing these belts requires major PIA contortions of the body:superman:.

Part of my motivation for an electric pump is the engine mounting. RIght now it's on 4 points, the original H&M front mounts and the Mercruiser rear mounts. Installing a standard water pump means I need to eliminate the H&M front mounting plate and go to side engine mounts . . but it simplifys a serpentine belt drive:confused: :confused:

This is where I am unsure . . Ford 302 mounts are between cylinders 2 & 3 half way down the length of the block . .8" further back . . essentiually redistributing the load on the hull?? Or am I over re-acting??

Mario
Go Bears!