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Jeff V
01-15-2007, 08:39 PM
Here's the trash talk... Laugh or feel sorry for me, but I'm looking for any somewhat serious suggestions, or even a good laugh.:tongue: :tongue: My recent 22 came with an aluminum trailer built in '97 that has only two bunks at the rear, was as far forward as the front winch post would allow, hung off the ass end 2 feet and had 34 lbs of tongue weight and the keel rides on two pieces of nylon. The bunks are 4x12's mounted vertically so there is only a small surface contact with the boat, which I don't like. I have an Eagle trailer under my 16 and like the way that fits with the bunks on the flat. I was trying to get a year out of it, as I'm throwing money down the hatch to repower and feel that I will need some healing time. I've already talked with Doc and Poodle about trailers and have an idea of the ultimate replacement if it comes to that sooner than later.

Here's the trailer trash...I've made an adapter plate which allowed me to move the winch post and boat forward about 20" and now have the right tongue weight and the boat is still behind the rear frame member.I haven't cut off the extra part of the bunks now protruding from the back of the trailer, yet, so it has a real hillbilly look unless you like the looks of a protective frame around the outdrive! Bring on the tailgaters!

I could probably live with it a year...maybe, if I added some more support in the front with a short bunk. The trailer does not have a dropped frame so I'm stuck working with it the way it is unless I totally redid it, as there is very little clearance for another bunk, and I'd rather just get a new one than spend a lot of time on this one. My pulling truck will compensate for the lack of disc brakes so that's not a pressing issue.

Short of biting the bullet and buying another trailer before Lake Cumberland, and driving at night in stealth mode so it's not seen, do any of you have any good suggestions on a short term solution for this? :confused: The scrap price of aluminum is looking better all the time.

Jeff

gcarter
01-15-2007, 08:55 PM
I don't know as much about about trailers as some others here, but you could move your bunks together a fraction to get the weight off of the V guide, it'll beat up your gelcote. Perhaps you could move the bunks forward a few inches and you might gain a little more support. You could always add brakes to it.
But I'd really like to see some pictures of your tractors/traction engines.

Silver Bullet
01-15-2007, 09:01 PM
I think it looks fine. I don't remeber if you said it had a tandem axle but that would be my only concern. When I first got mine it had a terrible trailer and I had all these plans to rebuild it but it seemed more logical to go new. Now there is no doubt when hauling down the road.

After all if your going to rebuild this beautiful machine the last thing you want to do is loose it on the interstate. TRUST ME I KNOW. The next week it had a new trailer.

98shovel
01-15-2007, 09:13 PM
jeff
how much room between the keel and the axels.

Jeff V
01-15-2007, 09:45 PM
But I'd really like to see some pictures of your tractors/traction engines.[/QUOTE]
Here are a couple for you George...something you don't see often, especially boating! I've been playing around with this stuff for about 28 years.

Twin City 40-65, ( 40 hp at the draw bar 60 at the belt pulley) weighs 25,000 lbs, built in 1913, used to break the prarie sod. 4cyl engine, I believe it's a 7" bore and 8" stroke. 600 RPM's max

Waterloo Boy N. This was the company John Deere bought that got them into the tractor business. Rated at 12-24

Eagle 13-25. Check out the headless engine and exposed roller rockers and valves/valve cages.
Max rpm's 450.

All of these started on gasoline then after warm up ran on kerosene which was much cheaper.

Tolerances are a little different than a Donzi.

Jeff V
01-15-2007, 09:50 PM
jeff
how much room between the keel and the axels.

I'll measure if you have an idea cooking, but it's probably about 4"

Jeff

gcarter
01-15-2007, 10:18 PM
Thanks so much!!!!:eek!: :eek!:
I really enjoyed the pic of the Waterloo Boy. I just finished reading Randy Leffingwell's book on the history on Deere and Co.
You've got a good bit of history there. I imagine you spend a good amount of time with them in the Summer.

Greg K
01-16-2007, 05:13 AM
The axles could be moved forward to give you more tongue weight. Cut the bunks shorter and then move them toward the center to the next strake.

Cuda
01-16-2007, 07:10 AM
Axles forward is LESS tongue weight...
My thought exactly, also, moving the bunks in will make the boat ride higher on the trailer. That's one of the main reasons I bought a new trailer for my Formula. It was on a non adjustable trailer, and the bunks were too close together for what I like, making the boat ride too high.

Jeff V
01-16-2007, 07:50 AM
Scott sent me this picture of one of his trailers. He has been very helpful and I can see why people on this site like working with him. This is what I wish mine were like. Scott...any way you might get me just the the hardware to add a short set of bunks to the front? Maybe I could add/replace the first two cross members with dropped ones to accomodate the hardware better if there isn't enough room I'll do some measurements anb see if it might work.
Jeff

Greg K
01-16-2007, 09:59 AM
Axles forward is LESS tongue weight...
Trying to think too early in the morning..:bonk:

98shovel
01-16-2007, 05:45 PM
jeff
the trailer u have looks to be torsion axel ,this means the beam does not move during suspension travel.
my trailer had beverly hillbilly all over it whene i got it ,i just finished a complete overhaul of it and was exp. some of the problems that have been discussed i will try to snap a few photos of it in the next day or so u will be able to see how u can cure your problem.
i have 3" from keel to axels thats with leaf springs no problem even on sttep ramps
patrick

98shovel
01-17-2007, 03:58 PM
Jeff ~

Here is the pictures ~ started life as a 69 easy loader POS. Still a few things left to finish, but this should give you an idea for yours.