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Donziweasel
01-02-2007, 08:22 AM
This happened New Years Eve and almost killed us. While many of you do not live out West or snowmobile, I think there are good lessons here for anyone who enjoys the woods and spends time outdoors.

New Years Eve 2006- A Night of Survival

By John Pearson

The story that follows is true. Although what happened is embarrassing, I feel that by writing this article I might be able to save a life down the road. We were all experienced riders with a lot of backcountry experience, but this story will show even experienced people can make serious mistakes.
New Years Eve 2006 started out as a normal day for my wife, my friend Jeremy and me. After a quick few hours at work, we decided to take a quick ride in the backcountry on our new sleds before the evening’s festivities. We had great equipment for Boondocking with me on an M-1000, my wife on an M-8 and my friend on a Summit XRS. We headed to a favorite area in Cliff Creek about 30 miles south of Jackson. The weather was sunny, the avalanche forecast was moderate and we were excited about a great day of boondocking in the backcountry. We started out heading up to some bowls that we had ridden last year in the spring and were amazing. We cut fresh track all the way in relying on our GPS’s that had last years tracks saved on them. We finally got to the first bowl and did some nice climbing, but it was not ideal, so off we went looking for that perfect face in which to try our new sleds. We kept jumping from bowl to bowl where we had ridden last spring. We came to a ridge where you had to ride down a steep pitch through the trees that opened up into a perfect bowl we knew about and had ridden last March. I was leading and by dropping into this bowl, I had sealed our fate for that day and it was the first mistake I made during this trip. After riding some amazing faces and having a great time, we decided to head back out.
When we got to the face in the steep trees, I tried to climb out but the face was full of sugar snow and logs barely under the surface. After trying with a snow bungee for 45 minutes to get up the 80 yard face, we gave up. The difference in last spring and that fateful day was that there was more snow and the tracks we had followed in were hard packed. We finally gave up knowing we could not get out that way. I knew the next bowl over was an area I had ridden two years before and there was an old mining road at the bottom of it. We decided to drop into this bowl and try and find the old road to get out. The drop in was ugly at best and although Jeremy and I made it, my wife lost her sled and it hit a tree. The front bumper, belly pan and cowling were all cracked, but mechanically the sled was fine.
After getting the sled out of the trees it is beginning to get dark and we knew we had to get out soon. The temperature was falling and we were out of food. We also were getting dehydrated from not drinking enough water. We found tracks at the bottom of the bowl that looked as though they led out. Although I could see the old mining road on the GPS, the road had given me problems in the past and I decided to follow the tracks into drainage. This ended up being mistake number 2. The track was narrow and tough riding with the three of us having to negotiate tight trees, logs and creek crossings. We eventually made it to a point on Gibbs Creek where there was a bad crossing. After Jeremy and I made it across with some difficulty, my wife decided she was too tired to try the crossing and Jeremy volunteered to try it. He almost made it but then the sled slid into the creek. The ice and snow around the sled looked stable, so Jeremy and I went on the other side of the sled to try and push it out. Both of us fell through the ice up to mid thigh and both of our arms went in up to the elbow. This is mistake number 3.
Although soaked, we tried to get the sled out and although it was revving up, the clutch and belt were under water and neither was engaging. After 15 minutes, we knew the sled was stuck for the night, so we headed back down the trail with Jeremy in the lead and my wife and I double on my sled. After a half a mile, we lost the trail as whoever had made it had become lost and could not find the way out. Although we knew they had made it out somehow, it was too dark to find the tracks. Both Jeremy and I were starting to get extremely cold with out soaked boots, legs and arms and hypothermia was not far away. We finally made a good decision and decided to stop, make a fire and dry out our boots. We both had saws in the handles of out shovels and started cutting branches of green pine. We were on almost 4 feet of snow and finding dry, dead timber was not an option. The fire would flare and then die. Both Jeremy and I had our boots and sock off trying to dry them out in the small non-cooperative fire. My wife, whose feet were also wet, but warm, continued to get wood and necessities from the sleds. The neck of the Arctic Cat fuel tanks is very large so you can actually fit your hand inside. This ended up being essential and we took used small water bottles to fill with gas and throw on the fire. By now the temp was in the single digits and we were not drying out and I had made my final mistake by taking off my helmet.
I knew at this point we were in serious trouble and asked my wife to get Jeremy’s satellite phone so I could call a friend and get Teton County Search and Rescue. Being surrounded by mountains, we could only get a single about every 10 minutes and it would last only two minutes. I finally got my friend and told them our GPS coordinates and the general area we were in. This was around 8:30 P.M. Although we did not know it, we were actually in Sublette County, not Teton County, but Teton County coordinated with Sublette County search and rescue. We also called 911 on the Globalstar satellite network and the emergency operator was able to relay the phone’s number to Sublette County Search and Rescue.
Although we were in serious trouble, when we decided to stop and make a fire, we actually started making good decisions. My immediate goal was to get my feet and boots warm so I could put them back on. Finally I felt they were warm but not dry so I put them back on. They were warm enough so I could move around and relieve my wife from getting wood. I could tell she was wearing out from exposure and exhaustion. I then put back on my helmet and my head immediately froze. I started shivering really bad and new I had to leave it on and warm up. The fire simply would not stay lit so I headed out to find some dry wood. I found a 25 ft standing dead pine and used a saw to cut it down. We used the small branches to make a base under the fire and then sawed the bigger pieces into small logs which we set on top. Using the water bottles full of gas, we kept dowsing the fire until it lit. Once lit, we all became somewhat comfortable.
Search and rescue began calling us on the phone when we had a signal. I gave them three important ways to find us. First, I gave them somewhat exact GPS coordinated. Next, I saw an old mine landmark on the GPS and using the GOTO function, gave Search and Rescue another position as .61 miles west southwest from the mine. Lastly, I gave them the name of the creek drainage we were in, Gibbs Creek. They told us that when we heard their snowmobiles, to turn ours on so they could see the lights. My wife and I also had high tech Arctic Cat helmets with built in lights. The ones in the front were like a small white flashlight and the ones on the back were red that can be seen over a mile away and flashed SOS. Around midnight we finally heard their sleds and it was just in time. Our fire was dying and we were all getting chilly again. They Search and Rescue team hiked down from above us and checked us for any medical problems. They then said the old mining road I had initially failed to follow was only about .2 miles above us. They rode the two sleds up and we hiked up. Once at the top, the team of four Search and Rescue as well as the three of us rode to the trailhead. By now the temp was below zero and I almost went hypothermic. We made it to the trail head around 1:30 A.M. and it was -8. Search and Rescue, Sublette County Sheriff and a medical team with an ambulance were there to meet us. After a quick hop in the ambulance we were released and headed home. It took over 24 hours to get our core temperatures back to normal and longer than that to recover from exhaustion and exposure and this is how we spent New Year’s Eve.
Looking back on the whole scenario, we made a lot of mistake, but also made some very good decisions and I would like to look at both so whoever reads this can learn from our mistake and correct decisions. First, we were well prepared for our ride. We were all on new sleds that were designed for backcountry riding. On top of our usual equipment such as avalanche beacons, shovels and probes, we also has saws, 2 GPS’s a satellite phone, some basic tools, four lighters, a snow bungee (worth it’s weight in gold), NRS Straps, and lights built into our helmets. We also had hand held radios and basic backcountry survival knowledge. We were fairly prepared for what happened. Our mistakes were riding into and area which was questionable about getting out, following tracks that we did not know where they went, and getting wet. We also had changed our original area we were going to ride and had not alerted anyone to where we were.
The decisions which saved our lives were knowing when to throw in the towel, stop and build a fire. Another decision that saved our lives was choking down our pride and contacting the proper authorities on the satellite phone. Although we may have made it through the night, we were wet, cold out of provisions, exhausted and dehydrated. If we had made it, we all would have almost assuredly have lost some appendages to frostbite. Without certain equipment, we would have died. The saws in the shovel handles were extremely important as we would have not been able to get wood for the fire. The lights on our helmets allowed me to find wood that was dry enough to light. The two GPS’s were also crucial for knowing where we were and relaying the information to Search and Rescue. Without the satellite phone, we would never have been able to alert authorities that we were in serious trouble and needed help. I also made a good decision in who I contacted for help. I knew that I had to contact the right person and that was either Janae Robinson or Julie Rohde. They are co-workers and I consider them family. Both have worked side by side with me and run a large transportation company. I knew their experience in coordinating the company and level headedness would be essential in relaying information to the right people and they would not panic. I also knew they would not stop until I was safe. I decided to contact Janae and this ended up being the right person for the job as she was instrumental in getting the info to the authorities.
In the end, we all made it and that is the important part. Jeremy ended up with 1st degree frostbite on his face. My wife has a fancy scale and it showed she lost 3% of her body fat and gained 3 pounds of muscle. This is pretty extreme. When we decided to stop and build a fire, I can not tell you how exhausted we were. We had been digging out sleds all day and riding hard. I was getting cramps in my legs by the fire, a sure sign of dehydration. I actually drank two bottle of creek water knowing my body was shutting down and if I did not re-hydrate, I would simply be in more trouble. I knew that there was a possibility I would get giardia down the road, but the immediate need to re-hydrate out weighed possibly getting giardia in a few days.
Now, I look back on this as a learning experience. I now realize that I have been taking too chanced in general in the backcountry for years. I had basically become too complacent in my riding. Two years ago I almost had to dig in for the night. I love to ride and will continue to boondock in Wyoming’s back country, but will be more prepared and will make better decisions. I will also be taking more equipment, such as spare gloves, sock, food rations, fire starter, head lamp and water. Without the light, I would not have been able to find the dead pine that saved us. We also kept losing the GPS, saw and phone in the snow and the light helped find them. Although extremely expensive, I am looking at purchasing my own satellite phone as without it, we might not have made it.
I would like to thank Janae Robinson, Teton County Sheriff, Teton County Search and Rescue, Sublette County Sheriff and most of all, Sublette County Search and Rescue. All played an important part in our survival and they were all professional, courteous, and well trained for the amazing job they do. Whenever you buy a license for fishing or whatever and the sales clerk asks you if you would like to donate a dollar to these professionals, please say “I would like to donate $20.00 or more” as you might be the next one depending on these people who give so much to make the backcountry a safer place to experience. Lastly, I would like to ask for the forgiveness of my wife and friend whose lives I put in danger with poor decisions. If anything had happened to them, I would have never been able to forgive myself. I hope they can forgive me and will continue to ride with me in the backcountry as I know of no two other people I enjoy riding with as much as them.


I will be submitting this to snowmobile and ski magazines and to anyone else who will read it hoping that maybe someone can learn from it and it might save a life.

Rootsy
01-02-2007, 09:19 AM
Glad that you all made it out intact... Quite a harrowing experience that many would not fair well in... i've been turned around before and almost thought i was spending a night in the woods... illequipped btw... it is easy to lose your head... when in fact that is the ONLY thing that will keep you alive...

firestarters are essential... or good ole wite birch bark works just as well... fill a zip lock and stuff it in your pack...

BigGrizzly
01-02-2007, 10:09 AM
Good writing and advice. I also hope all is well on the home front in Ga as well.

Donziweasel
01-02-2007, 10:36 AM
Thanks, the story needs some revisions and more info, I will post the final version when it is ready.

My mom is doing ok. She got real depressed the other night and tried to walk out of the hospital at 4:00 A.M. The hospital restrained her.


2006 really sucked for me. My wife was bit by a rattle snake, my company drove me crazy to the point I had to list it for sale, I lost my grandmother in July, my mom's situation which most of you know about and finally the New Years fiasco. Hopefully 2007 will be a better year.

Carl C
01-02-2007, 02:53 PM
That's quite a story! What really saved your ass was the ability to build a fire. The saw, GPS, cell phones, etc. are all good but a warm fire is a real life saver. Fuel can usually be found. Good for you for being prepared. Will you be billed for the emergency help? Glad you and your mother are OK. My New Year"s Eve? Drank a bottle of champagne and passed out before midnight. :eek!:

Donziweasel
01-02-2007, 05:23 PM
Thanks for the words about my mom and myself Carl. Wyoming has a Search and Rescue team in every county. The people who work there are all volunteers and they are mostly funded by donations. When you buy a fishing liscense, for example, they ask if you would like to donate. I always do and will donate even more in the future. I edited the original story just now and the copy above is what I will be submitting to snowmobile and snowest magazine.

Tony
01-02-2007, 07:19 PM
Amazing story, John, and I'm glad it turned out all right.

p.s...Just a thought (coming from a teacher:) )...separate your text into paragraphs for easier reading. Look for a natural break, and add a blank line between paragraphs. No need to indent anymore, just add a blank line.


:beer:

Donziweasel
01-02-2007, 07:47 PM
Sorry Tony, I actually cut and pasted it from Microsoft Word. It looked right when I did it, then I hit submit and it came out like what you read. The Word version is much clearer and has correct format.

My wife read the story and is pissed. She said it did not accuratly portray how serious it was and in how bad a condition we were in. Little things, like it took over 3 hours to get the fire lit and how truely exhausted we were. I tried my best, but I think she is just pissed in general at me. I guess she has every right. She also mentioned it is a personal story and she did not want it told. I told her that if it has the effect of making one person make a good decision in a similar situation and perhaps it saves a life, then it was worth putting it out there. I guess it is also my way of trying to apologize and deal with the incredible guilt I am feeling. I once told her I would never put her life in danger with the lifestyle we live. I broke my promise on New Years Eve. I am taking it pretty hard. I went and retrieved the stuck sled today with some friends and it hit me really hard when I had to look at the track down the gully and where we built the fire and nearly died. I guess it was worse than I wrote, but it is a hard story to accuralty write. I am still dealing with dehydration and exposure. I just found some small frostbite scars on my cheeks.

BUIZILLA
01-02-2007, 07:58 PM
I can't imagine she would be pissed if she knew it saved a life down the road........ and I am POSITIVE this story WILL save a life somewhere, sometime, at some point...

your a BIG man for writing it.

JH

Donziweasel
01-03-2007, 06:58 AM
Thanks, I needed to hear that. There is over 8 million acres of backcountry in the Northwest corner of Wyoming and people access it year round. Skiers, snowshoers, dogsledders, snowmobilers, etc... 2 people have already died in avalanches this year. Hopefully someone will read it and if it does not keep them out of trouble, then maybe if they get in trouble, it will help them to make some decisions that will save thier lives. Starting to feel better today. Core temp is back to normal and starting to get over the exhaustion, exposure and dehydration. It feels like a three day hangover.

BUIZILLA
01-03-2007, 08:11 AM
I'm pretty sure the guy who died in the snowmobile accident in Montana last night, could have used some of your advice... don't be bashful, get the news out there...

JH

Donziweasel
01-03-2007, 08:29 AM
That was one of the guys who died in an avalanche I was talking about. He died in West Yellowstone in an area named Lionshead. I have ridden there before. It is only an hour and half to two hours from here. I have taken many avalanche courses and always test snow for weak layers that can have slabs break loose.
For example, before our fateful trip, I checked the avalanche forcast. I knew it was only moderate, which is the second lowest level on a 5 level scale, so it was a 2. I also read that north facing slopes were prone to 12-16 inch deep slides on a layer of unstable snow. Before I climb anything, I check the direction of the slope, then dig a three to four ft section out of the lower slope looking for a weak layer. Finally, everyone stays clear of a possible slide and up I go. We always ride with beacons, probes and shovels and I will NOT ride with anyone who does not carry this equipment. This is my standard riding practice and after 13 years of it, I have never triggered a slide and even if I did, I have equipment and freinds that, not can, but will save my life.

The other death really pissed me off. It was totally preventable. Two dumb assholes were riding at 9000 ft in extreme conditions (level 5), without avalanche beacons, probes and shovels. Triggered a massive slide about 1 hour south of here. Luckily, another group of riders heard and saw the slide (avalanches are LOUD!). They managed to dig one guy out, but the other was eventually found under 6 ft of snow. First guy lived. Both have lived out here for a long time and knew better. I know I should be more respectful because someone died, but I can not tell you how furious I was when I learned about this.

Most people will live for about 30 minutes in a slide and 90% are triggered by skiiers. Snowmobiles have a slightly higher rate since we wear helmets that can leave am air pocket around your mouth. After 30 minutes, it decreases 50% per 10 minutes.

The backcountry is an amazing place and should be visited. It is not inherently dangerous, but can be if you do not know what you are doing. Millions of people access it out here a year, and we have very few incidents. Whether you are skiiing, snowmobiling, dog sledding, or snowshoeing, the backcountry is amazing, beautiful and some feel spiritual in a way. Me, I just like ripping up fresh powder 30 miles in the middle of nowhere, but sometimes when the sun is out, there is fresh snow, it is dead quiet, and the mountains look like a painting, I can see why people get spiritual with it.

BigGrizzly
01-03-2007, 08:40 AM
I agree with Buz. Too many good people die because of bad decisions and mistakes. This happens in boating as well. Plus every time you see it in print it will remind you to prepare for the unexpected, the life you save the next time could be yours. Give us a shout the next time your going to be be in Atlanta for more than a day.

Donziweasel
01-03-2007, 09:18 AM
Grizz, I am hoping to go see my mom in a week or so. Would like to meet up. I can only take the hospital for so much and it would be nice to meet a fellow Donzi enthusiast in my home town and break up the monotany.

The lessons in this story are on many different levels and you are absolutly right that it can encompass boating as well as any activities which carry a risk, no matter how small or great. It is about decisons and levelheadedness.

A freind read my story and he has been riding in the backcountry for years. He said one thing kept jumping out at him and I have to agree. He said it sounds like I have been placing too much faith in technology and it has dulled my common sense. I have to agree. GPS's, satellite phones (not cell phones) are wonderful tools, but they have gotten me in, and out, of trouble before. Having all the gear is great, but it can make you think that you are invincible and might make you take greater risks. These items should be secondary to good ole' common senseand level headedness. I have obvioulsy been doing some soul searching.

Wife isn't too pissed anymore, but is not really thrilled about going into the backcountry. I am kinda the opposite, fall off the horse, get back on. Ready for a relaxing ride somewhere I know and is safe. She has not only experienced hell, but also did 1200.00 worth of damage to her sled. I think she is going to be very gun shy for a while and I am going to have to be very patient with her. Funny thing is, she can out ride most of the guys out here and is damn impressive on a sled. She also looks real good in a bikini!

Donziweasel
01-03-2007, 05:07 PM
Glad I got the sled out yesterday, although it was tough. Calling for 16 inches in the mountains tonight and tommorrow. If I hadn't dragged myself back in there, it would probably be there till spring.

http://www.crh.noaa.gov/showsigwx.php?warnzone=WYZ012&warncounty=WYC039&firewxzone=WYZ415&local_place1=Teton+and+Gros+Ventre+Mountains&product1=Winter+Storm+Warning

rustnrot
01-03-2007, 05:31 PM
Meanwhile, we return to our regularly scheduled Global Warming here in the east, invented by Al Gore.

Team Jefe
01-04-2007, 11:50 AM
John - WOW, an incredible story. One word of caution: Don't beat yourself up too much. Yes you may have gotten them into the mix, but you got them out as well. AND, what doesn't kill us makes us stronger. Besides, any woman living with a Donzifile, 3 miles south of the north pole HAS TO have some forgiveness in her:wink:

Still, I appreciate your sense of responsibility. I feel it everytime I load a crew in the Revenge and head for open water. Especially, when we can't see the land anymore.

from a Warm Climate boy who has seen snow very few times, this may sound dumb---but can't you "eat" the snow for Hydration? I get that its cold and could lower body temp, but still. Also, what about water purification tablets. I remember about 150 years ago when I was a Boy Scout, we used them when hiking in the mountains. I'm curious more than anything.

Nonetheless, I'm glad you, your wife, your bud AND your Mom are doing OK.

Donziweasel
01-04-2007, 03:36 PM
Thanks for the advice Jefe. The question about the snow is a very good one. Yes you can eat snow, but the problem is the moisture content. The Rocky Mountains, and especially the Northern Rockies have extremely low humidity. For example, one inch of rain can equal 12 inches of snow in Colorado, but equals up to 24 inches in Wyoming. 20 mouth fulls of snow would only equal a sip of water. You could eat snow for an hour and only get half a glass while lowering your core temperature. In our condition, eating snow would have just made it worse. My wife actually started eating some and I made her stop. In the spring the snow has a much higher moisture content and then you might be able to get enough moisture in the same situation.
They say Wyoming has some of the finest champaigne powder in the world, due to our low humidity and cold temps. Grand Targhee ski resort, about 45 miles from Jackson has been rated the best snow on the planet by Ski Magazine 10 years in a row. They are the only ski resort with a snow gaurantee, if you don't like the snow after an hour of skiing, then they will give you a full refund. I guess it also doesn't hurt that they average 550 inches a year, more than any ski resort in the US, although Alta and Snowbird in Utah can give it a run for the money sometimes. Targhee already has 170 inches on the year and we are not even 1/4 through the ski season. Anyone up for some great skiing and face shots?:wink:

gold-n-rod
01-04-2007, 03:41 PM
Don't forget the important rule from childhood days, "Don't eat yellow snow!"

:wink:

yeller
01-04-2007, 09:43 PM
That's quite a story. Most people wouldn't share that with others. Lots of good information there. Hopefully it'll get published.

I used to sled all the time. Sold mine a few years back. It never ceased to amaze me how many people would blast up a face, clueless as to what the avalanche dangers were. In all my years of sledding the BC mountains, I never once saw anyone dig the snow to check the layers. That includes myself and buddies, but we were short trackers so never could hit the big stuff. A minority sledder in BC, but we always prefered racing down the logging roads or looking for big air.

Donziweasel
01-05-2007, 06:51 AM
Your right Yeller, snowmobiles have gotten almost too powerful and light. Sleds produced 4 years ago can't even touch what todays sleds are capable of. While they can now access country they couldn't in the past, they can also get you in a lot more trouble. I have never seen an industry advance as fast as snowmobiling in the last 5 years. An RMK 600(Polaris Rocky Mountain King) 5 years ago was the hot sled. It weighed 550 pounds and had about 105 horsepower with a 1 3/4 in lug on a 144 inch track. Now they are building sleds like mine, the M-1000 that weigh 500 pounds, have over 165 horsies, a 2 1/2 inch lug 163 inch track. I have already modified mine to 185 horsies, but only have a 153 inch track because you sacrifice too much manuverability with the long track. The 163's will out climb anything, but are hard to boondock with and manuever through the trees. Even track design has advanced in a big way. Compounds, lug design, etc... are amazing.

My hp gains were simple bolt ons. Pipe, can, Y pipe, intake. I have a great nitrous system on my old sled and might move it over. It taps into the fuel line and when you hit the shiney red button, a selenoid mixes the NOS with fuel before puking it into the engine. That way you are not pumping a bunch of raw NOS straight into the engine. Helps for longevity. We'll see if I head in that direction, but I am really happy with my current set up.

Hard core snomobilers are called "slednecks". I guess I am a one!

yeller
01-05-2007, 10:56 AM
Buddy of mine has the same sled as you. He can't stop raving about it. Besides being an awesome climber, he says he can't believe how smooth the ride is. Says it takes the trail bumps like an old short track.