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sweet 16 1966
12-17-2006, 09:26 PM
I hope time permits me to be boating by spring.
Needed repairs;
gimble ring replacement- so why not pull the deck to get to it! Pull the motor while at it.
Sand and re-gel the hull. May as well match deck to Lucian red.
Motor and tank are 2 years old. Recored deck 2 years ago.
May as well reinforce stringers. Fiberglass repair needed where screws holding deck to hull pulled through. Recently visited G Carter who after seeing his Minx work has inspired me to get started.

sweet 16 1966
12-18-2006, 05:26 AM
Deck came of nicely.

jl1962
12-18-2006, 05:48 AM
Wow - good luck!

What is the approximate cost to re-gel vs. paint? I know the answer depends, in part on how much prep work you do yourself. My boat has 10 year old paint which aside from a few chips looks great - zero fade. Still in a few years it may be decision time.

You'll be boating by Spring -plenty of time!
Happy holidays.

JL

:boat:

gcarter
12-18-2006, 06:01 AM
You can do it Russ!
It'll be MUCH easier to re-gell the bottom of yours than mine since you'll be able to flip it.

BigGrizzly
12-18-2006, 08:58 AM
Russ we need to talk, I would have called but my cell wastake at a party andI just found your buisness this morning. I'll call you if you don't call first. We need to get together. I also need to set up a winter get together with all the Lake Lanier Donzi owners and some wooden boat X Donzi owners. All you Lanier guys PM or Email me your phone numbers and/or addresses. BTW nice work.

sweet 16 1966
12-18-2006, 12:28 PM
George, I may need lots of advise! As far as gel vs paint?? Go to mini craft's
web site and you can select boat make and color. Gel should not be much more than a good quality paint. I have painted three times so I figure its time to gel. Just need good advise on how to remove all this paint!
MOP said to start with 50 grit and work from there. WOW, I have lots to do!
Not sure how to flip this hull yet. The sides are weak. Given some time, I should figure something out. Watch and see.

Tony
12-18-2006, 03:54 PM
Russ...you've got some work to do but it looks like you're heading in the right direction. Plus, it sounds like you've got the moxie and experience to do it right. I've seen you run your boat...I would put some extra beef in the stringers while you've got it apart!

Either do a search or ask in a post, I'm sure I remember reading about a few guys that have a trick or two for flipping the hull.

Paint or gel...a question that comes up often and usually splits the group like several other heated topics. For a boat that is trailered often, paint will pick up lots of little road dings/chips, but for a red boat paint will hold a color very well for many years. For a lake boat staying in one place you could gel it, but you'd better keep it well covered, or not go with the red, because of oxidation! So, both have their merits, I think it depends on usage.


:beer:

gcarter
12-18-2006, 04:57 PM
Russ, I think if it were me, I might consider gelling the bottom, i.e., from the boot top down. Leave the sides painted. You're never going to get the oxidation on the bottom you will on the deck and sides.
Take the Minicraft Donzi red as it comes, gel the bottom, and then color match your paint to the gel.
Ya got some holiday time coming up, get some friends over and turn the hull over. Then you can play around with the bottom paint and the best way to remove it.
Good luck man!!!

sweet 16 1966
12-18-2006, 09:23 PM
Should be ready to flip this weekend if I am here. Gotta go to Weston for a day Friday or Sat. George, I think I could do the entire hull with gel then the top matched with paint. My boat usually lives indoors. You know the gimble ring is the reason its all apart so I could get to it.
BTW, anyone have a water pick-up like the one below? I forgot it was there
but when the eaton outdrive was on the back, it had a seperate pully and pump- long gone now.

sweet 16 1966
03-09-2007, 04:35 PM
Almost 3 months later- small progress. George, I may do as you suggested - paint on top and gel on bottom. Currently decided to replace transom since I have been using 5052 alumn plate on both sides when I put in the mercruser. I have checked stringers and they are in good shape and strong. I do want to do as you did and replace glass and wood around engine mount bolt holes. Transom was not rotted and I felt bad about cutting it out.
Marine plywood- 100 bucks- 3/4".
Definition- exterior glue- big deal- A/B grade- big deal again since it will not be seen. Only value I determined was that it has very few voids as compared to CDX for example which is treated - the marine was not.
What I cut out was certinally not same grade and had many knots and voids- worked well for 41 years- go figure. The bottom U shape was cut at aprox a 11 degree angle to follow hull to transom contour.

gcarter
03-09-2007, 07:53 PM
You're a gutsy guy Russ!!:eek!:
Keep up the good work!:)

Lenny
03-09-2007, 07:58 PM
I use XL treated ply. It comes 1 1/2" thick as well and takes resin perfectly. It IS what it was designed for. Nice stuff.

http://www.greenwoodproducts.com/xlpanels.htm

Note the 50' long thing, these panels can be continuous from bow to stern. :)

sweet 16 1966
03-09-2007, 08:27 PM
Thanks Lenny but I have already invested my money. One sheet should do 3.
Will have one more to do.

Rootsy
03-10-2007, 07:00 AM
that brings back some bad memories... that transom wood is in there for sure... :bonk:

sweet 16 1966
03-10-2007, 07:54 AM
All out for now. Making cross cuts with the skill saw - not exceeding the
1 1/2" wood thickness is the key to getting it out then a metal grinding wheel
helped clean it up. Would like warmer weather when I glass it in- not sure it matters but I do get more motivated on sunny warm days! With all the chevy
parts out there, it is almost hart to put the Ford back in. Soon I will have choices as to which shape to cut out! Using same parts will be much less expensive though. Pics are for anyone who is so bored they need a project such as this to just get them through the day!

Lenny
03-10-2007, 10:19 AM
What is that other hull to the left ?

MOP
03-10-2007, 10:27 AM
My transom in the 22 was a patch work of 5" blocks of crap knotty wood, my glass guy said that was not uncommon with radius transoms and that most all of the strength was in the laminate. We used 7 ply treated marine to replace both the transom and stringers, my guy squared off the bottom of the transom wood leaving about 3" clear area for the drain plug, his reasoning was almost all transom rot is caused by water weeping in by the drain. He filled the bottom area with extra glass on top of what was used over the plywood, it ended up 1" thick.

Phil

sweet 16 1966
03-12-2007, 04:04 PM
Drain hole is something to consider Phil.

Lenny- Its a 1965 16 project for another day. It will go with a 1967 deck I have once I collect all the - other- missing parts I will need.