6" pull-up flush cleats...

[Tony]

I know that several of you have done this, and I'd like to hear your feedback and experiences. I think it was Red Dog that posted his project, but I can't seem to find it.

I'm looking for two 6" pull-up cleats for the stern of my 22'. Donzi apparently uses the Attwood Neat Cleat, but it sticks up about 1/2" and for similar money there are pull-up cleats that are almost flush. Here are four examples, with links:

Attwood Neat Cleat (http://iboats.com/mall/?session_id=322561108&cart_id=874098735&category_id=238294&list_time=1165372191&view_id=37993)
Attwood Flush Cleat (http://iboats.com/mall/?session_id=322561108&cart_id=874098735&category_id=238294&list_time=1165372191&view_id=37995)
Accon Flush Cleat (http://www.trickmarine.net/productdetail.cfm?productid=863&incat=25)
Accon Slim Line (http://www.fishing-catalog.com/AcconMarine/slim.htm)

Any other brands I should be looking at? Anybody know of a great price for four of them? I snagged two Attwood Flush Cleats off ebay (at a price I couldn't pass up!) but I don't particularly like the four exposed screw heads. Plus, it requires kind of an elaborate cut-out pattern...unlike the Atwood Neat Cleat which looks like a simple two-hole installation.

Also, if I were to put two flush cleats just fore of my windshield, would I use the 4 1/2" size or just stick with the 6" size? Sometimes these would be for fenders, but sometimes for mooring.

THANKS!


:beer:

[gcarter]

Tony, while these are a little more money, they are flush, don't rattle, and look great. Colored trim rings are available also if you like.. Looks like Fred has a good price on em, but I can price em out if you like...
Installation isnt too bad, you use the backing plate for a template...
Scott, are those Accon?

Another general question (and I appologise to Tony for hijacking his thread) but my Minx came w/8" bottom bolted Herreshof style cleats and I've been thinking of changing to this style (push button pop up). Would y'all stay with the same size (8") ,sometimes with bumpers and spring lines they get filled up, or go down to 6" ?

[BUIZILLA]

I have the Accon's pictured above on the Minx and Critter... they ARE the best, I used trim rings on the Critter.

:cool:

[RickR]

Here is one of the Accon threads, I am very satisified with the cleats I got from Madpoodle :)
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=34554&highlight=accon

[Madcow]

What happens to the ater that puddles inside of those style cleats?

[22billyzx]

Tony:
I used the Accon 6" flush mount and they were fairly easy to install. We went thru the speaker holes to mount them,and i removed the radio (starboard side) for more room. They are mounted just aft of the windshield,and are a great addition to my 22 ZX. Be careful drilling the hole on the outside of the hull...i applied some masking tape to avoid any splintering of the fibergalss,and also had to use a wood backer in addition to the one included,so the cleats would snug down to the hull.

[yeller]

Also, if I were to put two flush cleats just fore of my windshield, would I use the 4 1/2" size or just stick with the 6" size? Sometimes these would be for fenders, but sometimes for mooring.

Use the 6". You'll find 4" to be too small when you have to use it with a fender and mooring line at the same time.

If you mount it fore of the windshield you might find your fenders won't work well. The rubrail may hit before the fender makes contact. Mine are mounted right at the leading edge of the windshield, but if I could redo it, I'd put them about 8~12" aft of the windshield.

[roadtrip se]

What happens to the water that puddles inside of those style cleats?

There are cup units that fit flush underneath and drains that you can install with a tube to the bilge. I did this with the front units, but not the backs.

Tony, the Accons are the way to go. By the way, I didn't have to do much to the rear holes left behind from the fixed factory units, other than goop them up with sealer and put the new ones in. I put the front ones, six inchers, just forward of the windshield. There was too much going on with hydraulic lines and controls for me to feel comfortable cutting right next to the windshield. The forward placement works fine in most situations.

Just as an FYI, I originally bought the slim lines and they were not wide enough to cover the holes in the back.

The only thing I don't like about these units is the hyper-spring action. They really shoot up when released, so I tend to put my palm over them when pushing the button.

As said earlier here, they really fit flush too, so without bezels they are barely noticeable and blend in with the deck, until you need them.

[RedDog]

Here is what I posted previously. I used the 6-inch cleats like Mad Poodle posted above.

Pop-Up Cleat Installation

My bow has 1 pop-up cleat http://www.donzi.net/photos/popup1.jpg http://www.donzi.net/photos/popup2.jpg
and there were 4 standard cleats along the deck sides.
http://www.donzi.net/photos/popup3.jpg.
I wanted to eliminate the toe-stumping standard cleats.
I was able to find 4 new pop-up cleats direct from Accon Marine (http://www.acconmarine.com) for ½ of retail – they had a special running at the time. http://www.donzi.net/photos/popup4.jpg
I used the cleat backing plate as a template to cut the necessary notch to recess the pop-up cleat. I positioned the backing plate template so that 2 of the existing cleat holes could be reused. Lay down some duct tape and draw the pattern on top. The tape will help prevent spalling of the gel coat surface when the drill holes and cuts are made. I drilled a few holes in the cut-out area and then made the full shape cut using a fine tooth jig saw. A little final shaping and fitting was accomplished using a rotary grinding bit chucked into my cordless drill. The new pop-up cleat hole pattern was not the same as the original so I filled 2 of the existing mounting screw holes with MarineTex, drilled the 2 new necessary holes, and coated the cut-out area with resin. For additional protection from water intrusion to the deck core, I filled each screw hole with 3M 4000 adhesive caulk and spread a bead around the cut-out area. http://www.donzi.net/photos/popup5.jpg http://www.donzi.net/photos/popup6.jpg http://www.donzi.net/photos/popup7.jpg http://www.donzi.net/photos/popup8.jpg
The final installation is smooth and the recessed cleats provide a much smoother look than the standard raised cleats. Now only 3 more to go! http://www.donzi.net/photos/popup9.jpg http://www.donzi.net/photos/popup10.jpg

[MOP]

You also can take an old dull drill bit and run it backwards until you are through the gel layer, it melts the gel and eliminates any possibility of chipping and cracking.

Phil

[Tony]

Great replies and advice, and thanks RedDog for re-posting your post. I definitely do not want any humming or rattling, which makes me lean towards the pop-up style for only a slight increase in price.

How necessary are the water cups? I don't usually submarine my boat (like the famous picture of Ranman) so I can't picture how much water can infiltrate, say, during a rainstorm with only the cockpit cover on.

Do new Donzis come with Attwood Neat Cleats, and if so does anyone have feedback on them...humming/rattling wise? Apparently the Attwood plant is in Lowell, MI, about 30 minutes from my home town! I might have to drop in on them and see if they have a scratch and dent bin...


:beer:

[RedDog]

...I might have to drop in on them and see if they have a scratch and dent bin...


:beer:

I found mine half retail price on the Accon web site for sale as scratch and dents. Not sure why - they were in perfect condition