Boat restoration sequence

[1996Z15]

If you were to restore a classic Donzi is there a sequence in which you should work? For example, should I remove the engine and rebuild that first or do I have the boat repainted? I have a feeling that I am going to be told that I should pull the engine and rebuild and, since the engine is already out, do the body work and paint next.
I don't think I can afford to do it all at once which is why I am asking for a priority list from you guys.

[HyperDonzi]

http://www.donzi.net/tech/index.html

:cool:

[scott snider]

i have restored four boats.it all depends on age and condition of the boat.i dont mess around i pull the engine out and go through everything inspect and or overhaul all components,charging,starting,cooling,wiring,steeri ng,evaluate the engine condition and almost always do a major overhaul. i think you will find it all lot easier to do it this way then trying to repair things one thing at a time with the engine in the boat.next i remove the drive and gimbal housing from the boat and inspect and or overhaul them.you must now look over all parts of the hull for rotten wood,transom,stringers,floor,delaminating fiberglass look in the cutouts in the transom poke around with a screwdriver if the wood is soft and falling apart it will have to be replaced same with stingers and floor.this can be alot of work but it must be repaired.then i remove all hardware and the windshield, sand and repaint the boat.i always cover the paint and or gelcoat with three coats of clear dupont imron the colors will look beautiful for many years.then reassemble everthing and go boating.if your are a handy person [and your hull is in good shape] have some tools,time,a place to work on it and lots of money there really not that hard to do. scott

[gcarter]

i have restored four boats.it all depends on age and condition of the boat.i dont mess around i pull the engine out and go through everything inspect and or overhaul all components,charging,starting,cooling,wiring,steeri ng,evaluate the engine condition and almost always do a major overhaul. i think you will find it all lot easier to do it this way then trying to repair things one thing at a time with the engine in the boat.next i remove the drive and gimbal housing from the boat and inspect and or overhaul them.you must now look over all parts of the hull for rotten wood,transom,stringers,floor,delaminating fiberglass look in the cutouts in the transom poke around with a screwdriver if the wood is soft and falling apart it will have to be replaced same with stingers and floor.this can be alot of work but it must be repaired.then i remove all hardware and the windshield, sand and repaint the boat.i always cover the paint and or gelcoat with three coats of clear dupont imron the colors will look beautiful for many years.then reassemble everthing and go boating.if your are a handy person [and your hull is in good shape] have some tools,time,a place to work on it and lots of money there really not that hard to do. scott
This is exactly what I've been doing, but entirely by accident! :splat:
removed seized engine
removed badly corroded outdrive and gimbal
discovered and repaired cracked stringers
pulled and repaired electrical system
new upholstery
bought and set up new engine out of boat
new fuel tank
paint on hull
etc
etc

[JimG205]

Pay close attention you guy's who are contemplating a Donzi purchase for a bargain basement price-spiff it up a little-and trade up to a newer one.Boat restoration is labor intensive and you need deep pockets.I have done a number of boat restorations and I've walked away from many deals that seemed like a steal to the average guy.George will tell you all-he's a highly skilled tech guy and from what I've seen and heard doing a neat restoration on his Minx.Ask around before you spend your $$ :wavey:

[gcarter]

A person really needs to take inventory of their abilities and talants.
Restoring a fiberglass boat is a lot easier than restoring a classic car, ie metal fabrication, substantial machine work etc.
Fabricating 'glass is quite easy and forgiving compared to forming sheetmetal.
What I'm doing;
'glass
paint
electrical
all assembly work.
What I'm NOT doing myself;
metal fabrication
welding
instrument panel (I was going to, but oh well)

'Glass is so forgiving it's difficult to screw up.
Buy a few tools, minimum size compressor; 8 cubic feet, some air tools; D-A sander, right angle drill, die grinder, fairly good but inexpensive HVLP spray gun. Good lighting.
I'm working in my garage with the door open so I have to be careful with weather etc.
Actually it's a great learning experience for the uninitiated.
My wife has told me repeatedly it's made a new person of me. Of course my whole life, the accomplishing of the goal is a lot more fun than utilizing the device afterwards. When I finish the boat, I'll probably miss this time.
:wavey:

[Cuda]

When I finish the boat, I'll probably miss this time.
:wavey:

You can always start another one. ;)

[gcarter]

You can always start another one. ;)

Joe, I've slept on this, and I'm still not sure I can get my mind around that idea. :lookaroun

[Eugene Nahemow]

Boat Restoration Sequence

1. Take Wallet and Bank Card out.
2. Place on Ground where all can access them.
3. Bend over.
4. Hold onto ankles tightly.
5. Keep smiling because you know one day it might be complete.

[mattyboy]

Boat Restoration Sequence

1. Take Wallet and Bank Card out.
2. Place on Ground where all can access them.
3. Bend over.
4. Hold onto ankles tightly.
5. Keep smiling because you know one day it might be complete.


yeah that's it,
but some people go for the optional

6. have your head examined :tongue:

[Rootsy]

hey boys and girls look on the bright side... doing it yourself saves you A LOT of dough over having SOMEONE ELSE do it for you... IF you research the HELL out of it and spend your pennies wisely... shop around... #2 it is a great sense of pride and accomplishment when it is finished... you look at that and say.. I DID THAT.. ALL OF THAT... #3 you did it THEY WAY YOU WANTED IT DONE... #4 if it breaks you have no one else to blame but yourself...

personally for me, this is the only way to fly.. there isn't much i cannot or won't tackle... therefore it makes perfect sense, especially since getting the product I WANT the WAY I WANT IT in the end is what it's all about for me... and i KNOW every stinking single square inch of it intimately..

trust me when i tell you to save your money until you can afford to do it exactly how you want... if you pinch pennies and skimp you'll always regret it in the end... it is better to either do things in stages or wait until the funds are available to do it all at once.. the right way... shortcuts lead to nothing but disappointment and downtime in the future.

i've been down this road a few times...

JR.

[gcarter]

You're right about saving the labor, Jamie!!
Also, you can justify some things as "making payments" as you don't buy everything at once.
I payed $4K for my boat, I probably have $10K in it now. That's over eight months. A professional restoration would probably cost at least twice this much, maybe more.
I would hate to think I payed $8K to $10K for it and then find out I still had to restore the boat i.e. engine, outdrive, stringers, electrical system. You would definately be outside the market place if that happened, I think.

[Rootsy]

and how would i go about restoring a boat?

NUMER UNO PRE #1 have a vision and a plan of what you wnat to end up with... have a budget in mind, plan it out, investigate the powertrain cost, investigate glass, paint, gel, instrumentation, interior, wiring, rigging, all secondary systems (trim, steering, fuel, electrical).. make a spread sheet with fairly accurate prices so that you can determine whether it is worth your time or not...

#1 evaluate the overall condition of the superstructure and hull.

#2 disassemble it completely.. every nut and every bolt, photos up the ying yang, tag and mark everything, bolts, nuts, etc in sealed ziploc bags marked and numbered with description.

2A begin by removing interior and deck
2B remove powertrain
2C remove all hardware from superstructure and hull
2D remove all wiring and secondary systems (fuel, trim, lighting, etc)

#3 evaluate further the structural integrity of the hull, stringers, transom, deck, tub, etc now that you can REALLY get to them and poke around and see

#4 take MORE photos

#5 tackle the hull first, stringers, transom, etc, especially if you plan to go from a volvo to a merc, or omc... start from the inside and work to the outside... get the stringers and interior of the hull finished structurally and cut the hole in the back for the new transom assy if that is how you are going and or have a NEW transom installed

#6 build your motor, aquire all of the accessories and fully dress it on the stand.. get your transom assembly in shape and hydraulic steering, trim, etc if that is how you are gonna go.

#7 at this point you should have the powertrain and you can set it up to make sure everything is gonna be peachyr.. you can mock it up.. and fit all secondary stuff like fuel tanks and and trim and steering etc.. this way you have all of the rigging setup and done before you ever paint... once everything is rigged and you know it is right you can remove the engine and transom assy and steering, etc... fit the tank in place at this time unless you are gonna paint that area... finish up by applying your paint, inside and outside... you should be back to a bare hull when you paint... you don't have to necessarily though i reckon... many i suppose rig it and leave it.. just mask her all up... i just feel that flipping the hull would be much easier to paint than lying on my back with the gun, on the floor with paint falling on me in the shadows...

#8 tackle the deck .. working from the underside out.. coring first... new dash cutouts, etc then setup the gauges and wiring and any interior stuff you need to do... remove the gauges, leave the wiring and mask it all of entirely so no paint comes in contact iwth the bottom side if that is how you want it. (this keeps you from having to rest the deck on the new finish after paint. finish up by painting the deck and tub

#9 rig the hull.. all systems.. fuel tank, engine, electircal, trim, steering, sterndrive... BE CAREFUL of the finish... this is why you MOCKED it all up prior to finishing.. drilled all of your holes, etc.. it keeps you from scratching, cutting, grinding and drilling into your NEW finish.

#10 rig the deck with the gauges, steering wheel, throttle etc. you might have to do a bit of "tabbing" once she is on so save the interior for last.

#11 reinstall the deck... rubrail, deck hardware

#12 reinstall interior ...

#13 DO THE TRAILER

and whala i am sure i am forgetting something.. i've spent countless hours pondering, evaluateing, thinking about this... for i am gonna tackle it SOON... but alas i am no stranger to mechanical and cosmetic restorations by any means...

JR

[Formula Jr]

1. Find somone else that restored a boat to a high standard and will lose a ton of money on it.
2. Buy that boat and always smile and say they did a great job.
3. Run it for three years, sell boat for what you paid for it and then start again at #1. :)

That's my time line of restortation...........:cistineb:

[ToonaFish]

Owen has it right! But I'd still like Rootsy to graph his resto...

Bunches,

Celene "'cutting the hole in the back for the new assy if that is how you are going' just makes me giggle"