Deck Removal [Archive] - The Donzi Registry

gcarter

11-06-2006, 04:00 PM

You really need more than 8' of overhead (ceiling) to use any lifting devices w/the boat on the trailer. Putting it on dollies helps to lower it.
Of course w/an 18 you can always get the deck off w/4 or 5 friends.
Here's what I did;
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36703&page=1&pp=15
You should expect to change the tank unless it's already been done.

penbroke

11-06-2006, 06:58 PM

Here's (http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33989) a thread on how I did mine. The 8' overhead clearance was not a problem even on the trailer but it was real close. I did mine alone with only a bit of help cranking the come-alongs. It's not that hard. Like George said just plan on changing the tank if it is steel.

Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions.
Frank

Tony

11-06-2006, 08:01 PM

My deck-off threads are listed below.
Good luck, and remember we love pictures!

Day 1 (http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35831&highlight=deck-off)

Day 2 (http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36114&highlight=deck-off)

Day 3 (http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36402&highlight=deck-off)

Day 4/5 (http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36558&highlight=deck-off)

:beer:

Madcow

11-06-2006, 09:58 PM

Man, you guys suk!! I was hoping everyone would tell me DON'T DO IT!! Oh well, it seems I'l have to try it. I know the boat needs a transom, so it probably has other issues as well. Thanks for the great info and I'll keep you posted as I go.

Rootsy

11-07-2006, 06:30 AM

go for it man... it's not that difficult... :)

broozer

11-12-2006, 11:02 PM

Great job! can you tell me where and how much was the tank? Thanks Broozer
My deck-off threads are listed below.
Good luck, and remember we love pictures!
Day 1 (http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35831&highlight=deck-off)
Day 2 (http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36114&highlight=deck-off)
Day 3 (http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36402&highlight=deck-off)
Day 4/5 (http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36558&highlight=deck-off)
:beer:

Madcow

11-26-2006, 08:36 PM

And so it begins. Today I took it off the trailer, removed the interior, the rub rail and the snaps ( there are 125 on an 18 Donzi if your keeping track)

Madcow

11-26-2006, 08:39 PM

It looks like I can remove the deck withou taking out the ski locker at this time (which would be nice because of all the foam) if I seperate it at the seam just in front of the seats.

Madcow

11-26-2006, 08:45 PM

Madcow

11-26-2006, 08:48 PM

Nice beam/hoist setup.. Keep us posted as you progress please..
I just built the garage this spring, designed it for these kinds of projects. I'll tell you those lifting hooks on the boat are the cats ass. This is the first time I've ever used boat cradles. It great being able to move the boat anywhere by myself.

Tony

11-26-2006, 08:56 PM

You'll have to remove the ski locker eventually to properly access the tank.
I'd leave it attached to the cockpit and lift it out with the deck. It's tabbed to the hull in three spots, if I remember right, and they are easy to get at and cut. Just support it at the front somehow so it does not flop or stress the connection at the cockpit.

Great looking lift setup, and trolleys. Make sure you've got all the deck screws out, and that none are hidden by caulk, or you will power lift a "slot" in your deck lip. Don't ask me how I know this!

:beer:

Madcow

11-26-2006, 09:18 PM

Since the boat was repainted there are a lot of screws hiding, I figued a nice way of solving that problem. I went around the whole shoebox joint CAREFULLY with a matabo, and cut anything that was holding on loose. seemed to have worked good. I plan on beefing this area up some before I put it back together.

LKSD

11-27-2006, 08:15 AM

After I removed the seats I noticed the floor was white, which makes some sence since I've never seen a Donzi with this color combo before. I plan on repainting it red to match my Chevy SSR, and puting SSR wheels on the trailer. I'm putting a bravo on it and the only big question right now is weather I go with a 383 or 427 small block.

How about soome headers or Powder coated red manifolds to bling it out more?? It looks like you are in the process of building a sharp looking ride! Jamie

Sam

11-27-2006, 10:06 AM

I vote for the 427 SB :eek!: . that will be a great combo with the Bravo.

Madcow

11-27-2006, 11:13 AM

I vote for the 427 SB :eek!: . that will be a great combo with the Bravo.
I guess its based on how much I want to spend.

Madcow

11-28-2006, 08:27 PM

Well, the deck is off. WHAT THE HELL WAS I THINKING, I'LL NEVER GET THIS THING BACK TOGETHER! WHAT AM I GOING TO DO WITH ALL THIS FREAKIN' FOAM! Actualy so far it has come apart pretty good, however it is very obvious most of this stuff has not seen the light of day for 30 years.

Madcow

11-28-2006, 08:29 PM

I thought this was kind of weird, a copper gas line. Aperently it works.

Madcow

11-28-2006, 08:32 PM

This kind of sucks, looks like this thing was hit pretty hard at one time. Looked like the guy fixed it with peanut brittle. hopefully won't be too bad to fix.

Madcow

12-07-2006, 07:26 PM

Well the tank is out and looks to be in good shape. Kinda suprising considering how much water was in the tank locker. I used a sawzall with a long blade to break up the foam around the tank. Took about 5 minutes to get it out. Remember helping a guy get a tank out once with knifes and pry bars. Took a whole day. Nothing like having the right tools.

Madcow

12-07-2006, 07:28 PM

Got all the foam out and now the hull is bare. Next to tart sanding and working on the transom.

gcarter

12-07-2006, 07:34 PM

I thought this was kind of weird, a copper gas line. Aperently it works.
I personally don't like long unsupported copper fuel lines...they can get brittle and break. Try the blue, steel reinforced, fire proof, CG approved Aeroquip hose. A little pricy but worth it.

Madcow

12-07-2006, 07:36 PM

gcarter

12-07-2006, 07:36 PM

Madcow

12-07-2006, 07:39 PM

Every void on this boat was fill of foam. Any of you guys who have done this before refom your boat afterward? I'm not sure if the foam is for structure of boyancy.

Morgan's Cloud

12-08-2006, 06:59 AM

Can't belive how bad this transom is. It is just soaked. Why is the tranom only thick in the middle and not all the way from side to side. I'm going to put a full transom in unless someone tells me otherwise.
Hope you don't have some unexpected surprises when you get the transom out !
If it is soaked you will , more than likely, find that the water has migrated into the stringers where they meet the transom.
My transom was damp but overall not bad for 40 years old.. the ends of the stringers were a little damp too , but only the last 8" or so had to be taken off ... maybe it was the preservative effects of salt water on wood .... sometimes that freshwater has it's drawbacks.
I would guess that Donzi found out it was'nt neccessary to have the whole transom wood glassed over. If your transom is only flat around the O/D cutout it will be harder to glass in a wood template over the space of the complex curves on either side. Don't forget .. it will also add unwanted weight !
AS for all that foam ... You sure had a boat that would never sink anyway !
If it was me , I'd leave it out at this point ... Just put in the best bilge pumps you can find :tongue:
When I did mine , after I had the hull at the stage of an 'empty bath-tub' and it was completely faired and ground inside ,I bagged the hull and ran a dehumidifier inside for a few weeks to pull all of the moisture out of the glass. Then I barriercoated the entire centre tunnel of the bilge before re-foaming in the forrward tank. This ought to prevent water from getting back into the hull. That foam sure can hold water as you mention.
It looks like your doing a great job.
Steve

wannabe

12-08-2006, 03:57 PM

Hey Mr. Meat man,
I wondered if you would find your way to this web site as I suggested. I usually checked this web site daily (just lurking). I think when I do decide the time is right buy I had better buy newer. I don't think I could afford an older boat. Your shop looks real nice. Are you going to have to recore the deck? It seemed solid when I saw the boat.

Drew S.

Madcow

01-10-2007, 10:58 PM

Hope you don't have some unexpected surprises when you get the transom out !
If it is soaked you will , more than likely, find that the water has migrated into the stringers where they meet the transom.

You where right. Stringers where pretty wet the first 8 to 10". Thought it best to remove them totaly to the first bulkhead.

Madcow

01-10-2007, 11:02 PM

Got the new stringers cut and ready to glass in. Used 3/4' mahogany exterior grade luan. I've always belived enginered wood is stronger than the natural stuff. Also rounded the top edges so the glass would stick better. BTW if your doing this drill the limber holes first. Easier thn doing it after. Going to glass tomorow nite, then do the transom this weekend.

Madcow

01-10-2007, 11:07 PM

Forgot to attach pix.

Morgan's Cloud

01-11-2007, 06:29 AM

Yes , you sure are doing it right ! Where were you when i needed help :D ?
I can tell by the way your doing things that no-one needs to remind you to glass the transom and stringers seperately :wink:
Thanks for keeping up updated .
Steve

Madcow

01-11-2007, 06:34 AM

Out of curiosity, how many tons of foam have you thrown away?? :eek!:
A LOT! This boat should be 5 MPH faster just from removing that!

Pismo

01-11-2007, 09:42 AM

gcarter

01-11-2007, 12:15 PM

MOP

01-11-2007, 12:41 PM

Suggestion I would sister the stringers to the originals or do one hell of a job tying them into the bulkhead, there is a lot of stress in that area. The edges of that bulkhead were coming loose in mine, I doubled the stringers to midship and replaced that bulkhead and added another along with 4 transverses between there and the transom.

Phil

MOP

01-11-2007, 12:49 PM

Added note the stringers and transom wood should glassed in separately to prevent any moisture migration from one to the other. Most OEM's fail to do this which is a shame!

Phil

Madcow

01-11-2007, 10:00 PM

I see no transom wood yet. Are the stringers going to butt against the transom wood or is the transom wood going to be notched to slide down over the stringers. First option sounds stronger. Great thread.
In my opinion by puting the stringers against the transom, and notching the transom wood around them will be stronger. The transom wood should not move, and my morticing the stringers in there they will have much more tortional strength. But hey, what do I know. I cut meat for a living.:confused:

Madcow

01-11-2007, 10:02 PM

Added note the stringers and transom wood should glassed in separately to prevent any moisture migration from one to the other. Most OEM's fail to do this which is a shame!
Phil
I know, thats why I need to replace the stringers now.:mad:

Madcow

01-12-2007, 09:41 AM

Basicly what I am doing is a mortise and tennon joint, which is about as strong a wood joint you you can have short of a dovetail.

Madcow

01-16-2007, 09:09 PM

Been a few days since I've had time to post so here's an update. Here are the stringers glues and schmooed into place, ready for glass.

Madcow

01-16-2007, 09:15 PM

I glassed the stringers one night and did the transom the next. did not get pixs before the transom but you get the idea. Used nytex glass on the stringers with epoxy resin. The epoxy costs abot 30% more than the conventional vynilester but I'm told it is much stronger. Between that and the stiched fabric I shuold have no issues with strenth. Tabed all the ends and stub bulkheads in first then went over the whole thing with one large sheet.

Madcow

01-16-2007, 09:19 PM

This was a difficult transom to plot a template for because of the curve, and all theother details to go around, so this is what I came up with. Drew 2" squares on the back of the boat, took mesurements every 2" and translated that on a peice of cardboard. For the most part this worked well.

Madcow

01-16-2007, 09:29 PM

And here of course is the first board on the transom. As I said before this is 3/4" exterior grade mahogany. I filleted the wood about 3/8" every 3 1/2" so it would make the curve on the transom. I'm glassing the first two layers in with roven woven glass again with the epoxy resin. I'll put another board on the same way, but first I'll fill all the gaps around the edge with schmoo. First I pulled the wood back with plywood blocks through the holes in the transom then wedged a bunch of splints inside. I am certain this transomis going nowhere. Before I put the next board on I'll fill all the fillets with epoxy.

Madcow

01-16-2007, 09:33 PM

By the way here is a picture I forgot to post earlier. If your going to do a job like this wear a resperator and goggles. This is what the air looks like when you grind on this stuff, and I have an air filtration system in my shop.

Pismo

01-17-2007, 01:54 PM

In my opinion by puting the stringers against the transom, and notching the transom wood around them will be stronger. The transom wood should not move, and my morticing the stringers in there they will have much more tortional strength. But hey, what do I know. I cut meat for a living.:confused:

I agree this method will make the stringers more twist resistant which is important but it will make the transom somewhat weaker. The aft end of the stringers are now butting up against only a fairly thin layer of glass/gelcoat and there is less support for the extreme forward force on the transom. You could solve this and get the best combination of both methods by adding a sister stringer (could possibly be shorter fore-aft if needed) on the inside of the existing stringers that butts against the interior forward surface of the transom wood. They could easily be firmly attached to the main stringers and would greatly support the transom.

Madcow

01-17-2007, 08:30 PM

But remember the stringers will be tabbed into the transom wood, therefore if the stringers move fore and aft the transom wood will have to move too, and THAT aint happenin'.

Pismo

01-23-2007, 05:06 PM

What does tabbed mean?

RobF

01-23-2007, 05:18 PM

you would really want to glass the transom first, then put the stringers against the glass and glass them.

Having wood on wood is a good way to get water into both when one of them gets compromised.

If you seperate each part with glass then you wont run the chance of the whole boat getting water intrusion into the core.

Of course with your application it will probably never happen, but this is the main reason why when you get a boat that had a wet transom the stringers end up bad as well, the water travels.

More of a for future reference point as im sure your boat will enjoy a pampered life- especially with a home garage like that to call home.

Madcow

01-24-2007, 10:10 AM

What does tabbed mean?
It means to take another sheet of glass, and attach it to both parts at a 90degree angle, so the only way for the parts to seperate is for the glass to break. It's kind of like gusseting a weld.

Madcow

03-11-2007, 02:03 PM

Ok, the transom is finaly done. Just need to cut the holes. I'm going to use a router for this. That should give me a cleaner cut. Then I'll coat the cut areas with epoxy resin, the gel the whole inside of the hull. While I was finnishing the transom I added a couple of platforms for batterys and the trim pump. This will alow me to have 2 batterys an give me a stronger mounting point for the pump.

Madcow

03-11-2007, 02:09 PM

This is another problem I've kind of been working on in between. This boat took a big hit in the bow at some time, and had a half-assed repair done. I cut all the old crap out and was left with a real problem.

Madcow

03-11-2007, 02:13 PM

I don't know if any of you are farmiliar with Glassdave from OSO, but here is the solution he came up with. He took a mold of the shoebox joint on the other side of the bow, and we are going to use this to lay up a new joint where the old one is missing. I'll post pics when we do this it should wook pretty well.

maddad

03-11-2007, 07:26 PM

I really enjoy following threads like this. Great info and ideas.
And I'm sure I'm not the only one who likes the dial up friendly photo sizes.
Great job so far!

glassdave

03-12-2007, 10:58 PM

marineclean

03-12-2007, 11:51 PM

that guys a hack! :tongue: :D

Yeah, I've heard the same thing. :bonk:

Good to see you around Dave. :tongue:

Madcow

03-13-2007, 09:27 AM

Yeah, I've heard the same thing. :bonk:
Good to see you around Dave. :tongue:
What do you do, google search "glassdave" every nite to see what people are saying about you?:propeller

glassdave

03-13-2007, 10:51 PM

What do you do, google search "glassdave" every nite to see what people are saying about you?:propeller

LOL . . no . . . but i think i'll start :D

actually got bored with the usual stuff and was poking around some other boards. had to come an update my profile and see what was going on with your project :boat:

Madcow

12-12-2007, 09:12 PM

gcarter

12-12-2007, 09:36 PM

Finnaly back to work on this thing after taking the last 6 months off. Got the inside freshly gelled, going to put the gas tank back in next. Anyone know what to use to foam it in? Also what should I use to foam the void under the ski locker when i put the deck back on?
Here you go.....
http://www.shopmaninc.com/foam.html
You'll need the one gallon package of the four pound/cubic ft. foam for the tank (that's the 16 # for $56.00). You'll use it. You can use lighter for flotation.

Madcow

12-12-2007, 10:07 PM

Here you go.....
http://www.shopmaninc.com/foam.html
You'll need the one gallon package of the four pound/cubic ft. foam for the tank (that's the 16 # for $56.00). You'll use it. You can use lighter for flotation.
Looks fairly straitforward. Would you try to do it all in one pour, or is there any advantage to doing multiple pours?

gcarter

12-13-2007, 05:46 AM

Looks fairly straitforward. Would you try to do it all in one pour, or is there any advantage to doing multiple pours?
It's done all at one time in multiple pours. It takes almost all of the two one gallon cans, so there's probably not a convenient way to mix that nuch foam at one time.
Here's a guide;
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49388

Morgan's Cloud

12-13-2007, 09:26 AM

As George has pointed out , the 4# density is the one used for putting tanks back in.. At least for those of us without any hangups about foaming them in :D
Phil tipped me off about doing the small multiple pours when I did mine and it works just fine. there's less of a chance of it getting out of controll that way.
Possibly a helpfull hint ....... I hoarded a load of plastic one gallon bleach bottles and cut the tops off to create a good supply of open one gallon pots.
I used one repeatedly as the part A pot and a fresh one to mix both parts in on each pour, that way you don't use as many pots on each pour.
An old kitchen strainer spoon is excellent for stirring by the way.
As in when handling catalysed resins use plastic or treated paper mixing containers so as to minimise the effects of ambient heat absorbtion that would cause your mixture to fire off prematurely.
When it's all done you could also consider epoxy resin coating the top of the foam to reduce water penetration later down the road ...
Just a few ideas.
Steve

MOP

12-13-2007, 11:00 AM

At the risk of being very repetitive mask anything in sight, I know I add this to every foam post! It will adhere to anything it touches, it is very tenacious, the best product to hold most any item in place. As proven by 20-30 years of pounding in our toys and still a biotch to remove!

Madcow

12-13-2007, 08:02 PM

Thanks for all the great information, keep it coming! I don't know if I've said this yet, I've never done anything like this before. I cut meat for a living. When I bought this boat I thought I would repaint, repower and generaly just have to freshen up this boat! :smash: Thanks to all the good input from my freiends, so far so good.:bonk:

Madcow

01-29-2008, 08:08 PM

I have the the freshly rebuilt Bravo HD transom assy. bolted on now. After a year and a half it's nice to be bolting parts back on.

Madcow

01-29-2008, 08:16 PM

I had the motor in for about ten munutes tonite while I was mounting the motor mounts. After I drilled the holes in the stringers I brushed in some resin with a small glue brush to resist moisture. The motor is a 383 with aluminim heads, 10.5 to 1 pistons roller cam and rockers and a dart intake. I have a friend who does powdercoating so all the accsessorys, brackets and transom assembly is black powdercoat. A lot tougher than paint, easy to clean and looks great.

Tony

01-29-2008, 08:46 PM

Great job with the resto, Madcow, it looks like you are back on track.
Is it gonna be ready to splash this summer?
Also, nice work keeping us updated with pics...

:beer:

gcarter

01-29-2008, 09:02 PM

I have the the freshly rebuilt Bravo HD transom assy. bolted on now. After a year and a half it's nice to be bolting parts back on.
I know what you mean. It is good. Your engine bay looks really good.
Is that really a Bravo gymbal???? I kind of thought it looked like a TRS, but I'm not sure since I've never owned one.

Kirbyvv

01-30-2008, 08:22 AM

The inside of the hull and engine bay look great. Great work. What are your plans for the exterior? Keep the photo's coming.

Madcow

01-30-2008, 10:24 AM

The inside of the hull and engine bay look great. Great work. What are your plans for the exterior? Keep the photo's coming.
Red and white of course, is there any other options? I thought they where like model Ts
"You can have any color you want as long as it's..."

Madcow

02-06-2008, 09:04 PM

So far this week I have the motor almost done, just need to plumb it. Mounted the trim pump, and the battery boxes (Like the Donzi boxes?).

glassdave

02-17-2008, 09:45 AM

Winters going fast :eek!::tongue: whens the deck go back on :boat:

The Hedgehog

02-17-2008, 10:12 AM

That is some beautiful work. You should be proud when you get it together.

It should move pretty good as well.

Bill McCleneghen

02-18-2008, 08:05 PM

Scott,
Looks like you are doing a top notch job, I just started back on my F14. Painting the hull this week, cant wait to get the cap back on it.

The Hedgehog

02-18-2008, 08:34 PM

Scott,
Looks like you are doing a top notch job, I just started back on my F14. Painting the hull this week, cant wait to get the cap back on it.

Hey Billy,

When are you going to post some pics of the F14?

Hope that all is going well.

Bill McCleneghen

02-19-2008, 07:25 AM

my project went on standbye for the last year..... just recently started again.... I will take some pictures and update. I threw the camera in the car today.......

Tony

02-19-2008, 05:26 PM

I will take some pictures and update.

Do so, Bill, it is fun to see the different projects.
Start your own thread...with plenty of pics!

:beer:

Lenny

02-20-2008, 09:09 AM

So far this week I have the motor almost done, just need to plumb it. Mounted the trim pump, and the battery boxes (Like the Donzi boxes?).

Who supplied all you pulley bling and seat water pump and stuff? I love the look. :yes:

Madcow

03-01-2008, 03:50 PM

If you can read this turn me over... Well at this point blueprinting the bottom seemed like a good idea. If nothing else, this was a good idea just because I found new cracks.:smash:

gcarter

03-01-2008, 07:10 PM

If you can read this turn me over... Well at this point blueprinting the bottom seemed like a good idea. If nothing else, this was a good idea just because I found new cracks.:smash:
I blueprinted the Minx bottom right side up on a set of high dollies.
But then the boat was fully assembled.

Madcow

03-04-2008, 07:57 PM

Got all my chrome back this week. The last time this stuff looked this good, Don Aronow was still alive!

wannabe

03-05-2008, 04:35 PM

Are you going to splash this boat at Walbridge Park this Summer?

Madcow

03-21-2008, 09:57 AM

The bottom is coming along well, Should be gelling this weekend.

Madcow

03-21-2008, 10:03 AM

BTW I got the tank foamed in a couple weeks ago. I maked everything off well, nad it was a good thing. This stuff goes everywhere. It took 2 gallons of 4 lb foam just as I was told (Thanks George). I glassed in 4 2 X 2 X 3/4 plywood squares to the bottom of the hull for the tank to sit on before putting the foam in, and it seemed to flow out nicley.

Madcow

03-21-2008, 10:06 AM

I also gel coated the underside of the deck. Not so much that it will be seen, but it will help reflect light better. Speaking of light I also added a couple of dome lights in the engine compartment.

Madcow

03-21-2008, 10:09 AM

I also glassed in a 12X12X3/4 piece of plywood to the back side of the back seat so I can add a Perko switch since I now have 2 batterys.

Madcow

03-21-2008, 10:14 AM

Who supplied all you pulley bling and seat water pump and stuff? I love the look. :yes:
Its all Eddie marine stuff. You think thats cool wail till I post pics of the Livorsi order I just got!:shades:

BigGrizzly

03-21-2008, 12:07 PM

Thats a nice touch.

Madcow

05-13-2008, 09:36 PM

Started the motor today. Just need to clean up a couple things under the deck, and I'll have a whole boat again by the weekend.

Hear the motor here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_Ky8rFpRkM

Madcow

05-14-2008, 02:53 PM

I forgot to post this pic. The bottom after it was done.

Madcow

06-22-2008, 08:42 PM

OK, hers some updates. I glassed in a piece of 1/4 luan with stainles T nuts behind the shifter so I won't have to fight to attach it.

Madcow

06-22-2008, 08:46 PM

One of the problems I had with this boat was the cokpit was not properly supported, so I had a lot of stress cracks from it bouncing for all these years so I glassed in 2 strips of mahogany luan planed down to 7/16" (the size of the gap between the floor and the stringers)

Madcow

06-22-2008, 08:49 PM

I also glassed in some threaded recivers (like the ones used under the floor to hold the seats) under the deck for the wiennie bars since they are such a pain to place nuts under there.

Madcow

06-22-2008, 08:52 PM

I did as much of the under deck wiring as I could (which was just abot all of it) before I put the deck on for the last time.

Madcow

06-22-2008, 08:55 PM

The deck is finally back on for the last time. Nice to have a whole boat again after 2 years.

Madcow

06-22-2008, 09:01 PM

Spent all day yesterday finnising the wiring including wiring the guages. I thougt this would be less stressful before everything was painted. Came out great. I bought a new wiring harness, which made everythig a LOT easier. Nothing like working with new wires, and all new ends. You will also notice I already painted the ski locker when it was off the deck. Seem a lot easier.

Madcow

06-22-2008, 09:05 PM

Motor is fully wired and plumbed as well. All I have to do is turn the key and it's all ready to go.

Madcow

06-22-2008, 09:17 PM

Today I foamed in under the ski locker. I thought the easiest way to do it was to get a 6 quart funnel with a 1 1/4' hose and pour the foam in. I made up a half gallon and happily started out. One problem. Foam won't go through a hose.:doh:lets recap, I have 2 quarts of foam that expands to 25 to 30 times its original size in 30 seconds in a 6 quart funnel. It looked like the volcano in the Brady bunch.:nilly: My second attempt went much better. I stuck with the half gallon batches. A smaller batch is eaiser to mix and control. I crawled thder the dash and poured the first one in right where I wanted it, waited 20 minuets, then did the next, and so on. Took 5 pours but came out exactly as I had hoped it would.

Madcow

06-22-2008, 09:24 PM

I also finnished up the trailer restoration today, and put the boat back on it. New axel and springs, tires and wheels, bunks, led lights, fenders and paint. Also found these cool "Boat Buckels". They work just like seat belts and bolt right to the trailer, so you always know where they are.

Madcow

06-22-2008, 09:28 PM

She is now 100% ready for paint. When I get it back it should only take me a couple of days to have it ready to go in the water. Wow what a job this was. If I would have known it was going to be this much work, I would have bought a sail bote.....NOT! It was a lot of work, but a very fun project. I'll post picks when I get it back from the painters.

jl1962

06-23-2008, 11:53 AM

Wow - Very nice. This stuff is a labor of love and/or a lot of Dead Presidents!

I am fortunate enough to own Tony's red Ski Sporter featured in earlier posts on this thread. Every time I run the boat I am grateful for all his hard work.

Enjoy yours too and get boating soon!

Jay

samjannarone

06-23-2008, 02:35 PM

Superclean work, and a lot of it. Where did you get the wiring harness? Did you replace the whole thing, dash to motor?

Thanks for all the pics
Sam

Trueser

06-23-2008, 03:45 PM

You are really getting close.

Great work. Looks Fantastic.

Madcow

06-26-2008, 09:41 AM

Superclean work, and a lot of it. Where did you get the wiring harness? Did you replace the whole thing, dash to motor?

Thanks for all the pics
Sam
Yes I did. It is a Sierra item, looks just like the factory Merc one for 1/2 the price.

Madcow

12-07-2008, 11:11 AM

Finally getting some paint on it!

Madcow

12-08-2008, 08:51 PM

A couple more pics

Tony

12-08-2008, 09:35 PM

That's a really, really nice paint job! The way the deck stripe terminates at the bow of the boat is very cool.

The pics are awesome!

:beer:

chappy

12-09-2008, 07:41 AM

That's a really, really nice paint job! The way the deck stripe terminates at the bow of the boat is very cool.

The pics are awesome!

:beer:

+1 :shades:

BigGrizzly

12-09-2008, 09:45 AM

This is a great job.

Kirbyvv

12-09-2008, 02:50 PM

It's taken awhile, but boy does it look worth it. Nice job.

Madcow

02-11-2009, 04:42 PM

Yesterday was a glorious day! After 7 months at the paint shop my Donzi finnaly came home, and boy does it look great. Now comes the fun part. Final assembely.

Madcow

02-11-2009, 04:45 PM

A couple more.

MOP

02-11-2009, 05:31 PM

A definite WOW!!!! When you hit the water you won't be able to get the smile off your face!!!

MDonziM

02-11-2009, 08:55 PM

Yesterday was a glorious day! After 7 months at the paint shop my Donzi finnaly came home, and boy does it look great. Now comes the fun part. Final assembely.

Really, really great looking. Went through the whole thread. What red paint did you use?

Planetwarmer

02-11-2009, 11:38 PM

I just went through the entire post in reverse order. You had no idea what you were getting into!

You have inspired me to maybe sometime in the very distant future to do the same thing to my boat.

Your boat sure did turn out great! I bet you could sell that thing in Dubai for some money!

I'd keep it though.

Planetwarmer

02-11-2009, 11:41 PM

The boat, trailer, and SSR are a SMKN HOT combo for sure!

Madcow

02-12-2009, 09:33 PM

Really, really great looking. Went through the whole thread. What red paint did you use?

Redline Red the same color thats on the SSR. I also put SSR wheels on the trailer, ant THAT also proved to be an ordeal. 6 lug axels are 6 X 5.5 SSR wheels are 6 x 5.0. So I had to remachine the hub, Shave it down some and open the hole on the wheel. I'm going to put a 1/2" spacer on the wheel so everything will fit under the hub cap.

breeze400

02-14-2009, 11:35 AM

OH MY GOD!!! My hat's off to you! Nice Job!! HERE HERE!!! :wink::wink::wink: I can only hope that next winter when I start my restoration project that it turns out half has nice has yours!

I know that my R-23 is going to be A lot more intence to restore! Since I will have A cutty cabin to deal with. I have rotted wood in my cabin due to my ancor locker springing A leak.

I also have water comeing in from somewhere when I'm under way.I'm hopeing its an engine leak.

SAM :cool::cool::cool:

PS. AGAIN, GREAT JOB!!!!

72x2

02-14-2009, 07:31 PM

Beautiful work. What brand paint did you use on it.
Thanks

MDonziM

02-15-2009, 06:36 AM

Redline Red the same color thats on the SSR. I also put SSR wheels on the trailer, ant THAT also proved to be an ordeal. 6 lug axels are 6 X 5.5 SSR wheels are 6 x 5.0. So I had to remachine the hub, Shave it down some and open the hole on the wheel. I'm going to put a 1/2" spacer on the wheel so everything will fit under the hub cap.

Thanks, contemplating repainting just my sides and want to match the orig. gel. Hard to tell from pis sometimes but your red looks great.

wannabe

02-15-2009, 02:00 PM

I saw this boat this boat at the boat launch just after Madcow bought it and to say the least it was a tad RUFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF. I suggested he check out the Registry cause he was gunna need it. I cannot wait to see it at the launch this summer. It certainly has been one of my favorite threads.

Drew

Madcow

05-30-2009, 08:44 AM

I've had some toime to work on this again. I insatlled the flooring. It is Johnsonite rubber commecial flooring. Comes in 24" squares and installs just like VCT. There are a ton of different colors and textures.

Madcow

05-30-2009, 08:48 AM

Got the drive hung. It is a Bravo with a 2" imco shorty lower. Just a couple tips here. Make sure when you are doing this espcialy for the first tome check your cable lengths, and center line. There are 3 tools for this and it is a very siple process. Thanks to John at Jet Connection for loaning me the tools. Also there is no place on a boat where anti sieze is more important than on all 14 lock nuts on the drive.