Hot Wheel Bearings?

[apollo24]

Guys,

I am taking a trip to Toledo Bend on the TX/LA border this wknd and I decided to repack my outer wheel bearings and just check on everything (my bearings aren't that old and may have 1000 miles on them). I removed the caps and pulled out the outer bearings, placed grease back inside, and pushed grease throughout the bearing and replaced. I did a test run last night, around 35 miles, and upon returning all of my hubs were warm, and one was pretty hot. I have never had this problem!?!

Anyone have an idea what is going on here? Should the hubs get warm/hot to the touch? It was hot here last night (around 85) but I just don't remember them ever being warm to the touch.....

Thanks, ben

[Donziweasel]

When you tightened the large nut that holds the bearing and wheel in place, how hard did you tighten it? You are supposed to get it snug, and then back it off 1/4 of a turn. From there, place the retainer (if it is not built into the nut) and cotter pin. If it is too tight, it will heat up the bearings and hub assembly because there is friction when the wheel spins.

[apollo24]

Thanks, DW- Good point. I hand tightened the nut as hard as I could and then replaced the pin- perhaps I don't know my own strength! I will loosen them all a bit and do another test run. :yes:

[mrfixxall]

Thanks, DW- Good point. I hand tightened the nut as hard as I could and then replaced the pin- perhaps I don't know my own strength! I will loosen them all a bit and do another test run. :yes:

You may also want to check your tire pressure too,,a low tire will transfer heat..

[DON N.]

If The Trailer Has Brakes , Some Times That Makes It Hot.

[Team Jefe]

you didn't mention it, but are you slinging grease from teh backside of the wheel...it may not be obvious at first glance.

they will be warm after any real length of run...especially with brakes, but I've drive hundreds of miles at a time and never gotten mine hot.

really only a few things can be wrong....the nut tighening is most likely, but you may have "Hyrdauliced" off the backside seal with the grease pressue (i've done it before) especially if using thick marinie grade grease, only thing else I can thing of is if a bearing is somehow cocked on the slindle...unlikey I agree, just trying to look at everything.

[MOP]

I sold trailer for many years out of our dealership, all bearing need a little preload. What we did on new and old was to bring the nut in by hand while we wer doing so we would grab the top of the and rock the wheel in and out. When the rocking stopped we would tighten the nut to the next cotter pin hole, that has worked well for many years.

Phil

[apollo24]

Thanks, guys,

I loosened the nuts and then took another test drive. I am glad I did. One wheel's inner bearing was shot- I drove approx. 20 miles North on the Interstate, and as I exited to check everything, I noticed that one of the rear rims was wobbling!!!! And yep- blowing a ton of grease out the back (axle side). I nursed it back to town and replaced the inner and outer. Strange thing, though, is that the replacement kit's grease ring (or whatever you call the thing that goes on the inboard side of the hub, seemed a little small for the hub. I bent it out a bit and reinstalled. I'll just have to check it along the way. I took another test drive early this morning and the bearings were all slightly warm but not hot. I am keeping my fingers crossed, all 11 of them. I'm from Mississippi.

[Donziweasel]

The little thing is your wheel seal. It sould fit pretty tightly into the back of the wheel. I usually take a small 2x4, place it over the seal, and with a rubber mallet, pound it in. The rubber seal should fit snuggly around the axle spline. Did you replace the races? If you blew the bearing, you should replace the races. I have a great little trick for this if your interested.

[apollo24]

Do tell.

I did have trouble getting the old bearing (inboard) off. Had to tap it off with a hammer. I bought some more 1" as well as 1 1/8th spindle size bearings. Again, the 1" seemed a little tight, the others too loose. I just went to Bass Pro Shops and found a 1 1/16th size!?! Maybe that's what I needed, although I have the 1" on the problem hub now. Anyone know if the 1" will work ok or is it imperative that I try out the 1 1/16th inch bearings? I am about to take a 5 hour trip. :confused:

[joel3078]

Bearings, races, seals, (both inner and outer) have to be correct size, installed correctly, tightened properly, greased wonderfully, etc. etc. etc. If the thing crapped on you in 20 miles, just imagine what kind of a red hot smoking dog turd it will be in 1 hour. Oh ya, it's won't last 5 hours, much less the 5 hour return trip back home.

If you wanna find out what size you need, take out and look at the bearings and the races (smooth cone shaped tapered bearing surfaces) from the original parts (before you started fixing it) and get a magnifying glass. There are very tiny numbers stamped into the side edge walls of the parts. Type those numbers into google and magically you will figure out what the sizes are.

The difference between 1" and 1-1/16" makes a huge difference. Doesn't matter if it's a bearing, race, or seal. Sorry dude, no jury rigging on this job. And yes I've tried the shortcut 1/2 ass way before. There is only 1 thing that sucks harder than a porn star. Your broken down trailer on the side of the road with a trashed hub or worse yet, trashed axel.

[Donziweasel]

Just like Joel said, you must match it exactly. If you take the old bearings, seals, and races to any autoparts store, they should be able to match it. As a last resort, they can measure it with a calipre. Being that you trashed your bearing, your should replace your races. I have a great trick for getting the new ones in if you need help.

[apollo24]

Good point. I am going to run home and try out the 1 1/16th and see if it fits more appropriately, as well as check the #'s. Since some of my driving will be at night, I don't want to risk problems.

:crossfing :eek!:

[BUIZILLA]

Also, muy importante'....

do NOT, under any circumstances, buy Made in China wheel bearings...

don't ask me how many have failed on me, I never lost a Timken though.... never.

JH

[apollo24]

Thanks, everyone, for the recommendations. 5:00 rolled around on Friday and I walked out of my office to my truck and boat. I decided to leave the boat in Jackson and not risk taking the boat to Toledo Bend.

Good call. We finally arrived at Toledo Bend around midnight. I drove down to the ramp behind my friend's house and lo and behold, the lake was down around 8-9 ft.! His Robalo was tied up to the base of his pier with a 15' bowline. The pier and lift was high and dry. We took his boat out on Saturday and nearly ripped the lower unit off in the marked channel! I am glad I didn't bring mine, especially since my 280 lacks T&T. Beautiful lake, though!

Strange thing, though. None of the inner seals I bought fit my hub. They are too small. I just don't get it. I am going to post some pics and see if anyone can figure this out. Now about the China thing- the bearings I bought at West Marine as well as Bass Pro are made there. Where do you recommend I go? Maybe NAPA?

Thanks, B

[joel3078]

The guys that sell boats may also sell trailers. However, the guys that also sell boat trailers usually don't know dick about the hubs, bearings, seals, etc. Go to a place that just sells trailers. Doesn't have to be boat trailers. I have found the guys that sell the cargo and enclosed trailers usually have their act together. We have Brinkmann's trailer co. up here and they are top notch guys. Bring the old parts with you to do a match up. Napa auto stores is another good place. They can get you the Timken brand bearings. The made in China bearings have cheap ass races and magically allow the little tapered rollers to fall out and self destruct. Follow this rule of thumb, once ya figure out what the correct parts are, buy 1 or 2 extra sets. You'll need them again in a year or so if you trailer alot.

[Donziweasel]

Got a private message about my races trick, so here it is-

Getting the races out is not a big problem. You can pry them out or knock them out from the other side with a punch or screwdriver. The problem is getting one seated without knicking or scratching one. If it is knicked or scratched, you get friction and eventually bearing failure. Some people use a punch to knock one in, but if the punch slips, scratched or knicked race.

Take the new race and tap into the hub carefully with a hammer. Once it is in flush with the hub, take your old race and cut a knotch all the way through it. I use a chop saw, but a grinder or dremmel tool or anything that will cut it is ok. Take the old race and place it on top of the new race. Knock evenly around the edge until the race is seated and flush in the hub. Then simply use a screw driver to gently pry out the old race, put it aside and use it next time. This way, the old race matches up perfect with the new one and there is no way to knick or scratch the new ones.

I do my bearing once a year, and my races every 2-3 years. If the bearings are fine when changed and the races are nice and smooth, I leave the old races in. I know some might disagree with this, but in the 12 years I have owned boats, I have never had a bearing failure. I am also a big fan of bearing buddies. They keep pressure on the grease so that water can not get in. Simply by looking at the spring on the outside, you can see whether or not they need a hit of grease.

One other thing, other than do not use chinese bearings, is cleanliness. I pressure wash the inside of the hubs, inspect each one very closily for any dirt. I then meticulusly (sp?) wipe each one down very well. Never place your new bearings on the ground prior to assembly and make sure they are very clean and greased. For packing, consider getting a bearing packer. You place the bearing in it with the grease, push, and it will evenly pack the bearing with the right amount of grease thoroughly in a good clean environmet. They only cost about $10-20 dollars and are well worth the money. I will try and post a pic of one of the races I cut for seating new races tommorrow if anyone wants to see it. I take my bearings seriously as loosing a wheel or trashing a bearing can damage a boat as well as the trailer.

True story, was coming back from the lake 5 or 6 years ago and saw a boat being towed on the side of the road behind an SUV. One of the bearings on the drivers side had failed and he had not seen it and had kept driving. It had heated up and was on fire. The fender was fiberglass and had melted/burned. About a 2x2 ft section of is hull had burned. It was a tandem axle trailer. Both tires on the driver side had blown out, and we changed the one with the good bearing and hub. I had a small chain and we jacked up the trashed wheel and bearing, chained it up, and he was able to drive the 10 miles back to Jackson on three tires, two on one side, one on the other, with the other one chained up off the ground. He not only had to replace 2 tires, a wheel, fender, he also had to paint the side of his boat. A very expensive day at the lake. I aksed when he had changed his bearing and he said never and that he didn't know he had to do it. I really wish I had had a camera with me.