Bennett tab indicators

[CHACHI]

I see that Bennett has a new style tab indicator, model TPI2000. I was just wondering if anyone has tried them? Pros/cons. Any input would be appreciated Thanks in advance. Ken

[mrfixxall]

the led bounces around and you cant see them in the sun light..
md

[DickB]

the led bounces around and you cant see them in the sun light..
md


I have neither of those problems. The LED brightness defaults to a mid level after power is cut, so you have to adjust it brighter evey time you start the engine. I find this mildly annoying.

[yeller]

I just started installing this setup tonight. Fairly easy install. Still need to wire it up and mount the indicator. Looking at the equipment, I don't think the LED will bounce around, but you never know. I have heard rumors that the LED's are difficult to see in direct sunlight.

I'll let you know how mine works......soon.

[undertaker]

I just started installing this setup tonight. Fairly easy install. Still need to wire it up and mount the indicator. Looking at the equipment, I don't think the LED will bounce around, but you never know. I have heard rumors that the LED's are difficult to see in direct sunlight.
I'll let you know how mine works......soon.


Yeller post some pics of your install, especially where you are going to mount the indicator itself. If ya don't mind......:) Thanks:) :) :)


Undertaker:convertib

[yeller]

Yeller post some pics of your install, especially where you are going to mount the indicator itself. If ya don't mind......:) Thanks:) :) :)
Undertaker:convertib
I've already installed the sending units, so no pics of that...sorry. Haven't fully decided where the indicator is going, that's why it isn't finished yet. I'll take a couple pics when done.
The sending units are fairly easy to install. Just replace the top cap of your ram with the supplied one. The unit measures inductance to determine tab position. The replacement cap has a coil on it. A 12" (approx.) metal rod is supplied and one end is inserted in the center of the coil and the other end will rest on the bottom of the ram. (All this is inside the ram). As the ram extends, there will be less rod in the coil, reducing the inductance. When the ram retracts, more rod will be in the coil, increasing the inductance.


The LED brightness defaults to a mid level after power is cut, so you have to adjust it brighter evey time you start the engine. I find this mildly annoying. This is good to know. I'll probably wire mine direct to the battery to prevent this. The LED's will stay on with the engine off, but the battery drain won't be enough to worry about.

[yeller]

OK...finally hooked up the gauge and got to use it. 3 great days of 9am to 7pm boating in BC's interior. What a great long weekend. :yes:


the led bounces around and you cant see them in the sun light.. Interested in where you got this info from?? I tried everything to get the LEDs to bounce and no go. Solid in all conditions. Many hours were spent with the guage in direct sunlight and I had no problem seeing the LEDs, even with my sunglasses on.


The LED brightness defaults to a mid level after power is cut, so you have to adjust it brighter evey time you start the engineI connected mine to direct battery power. After an outing, I use the dimmer to turn the LEDs off. Even if I forgot and left them at full brightness, it'd take weeks/months for the LEDs to kill the battery.

All in all, a very good product for only $140.

Pic shows the temporary mounting of the gauge. I removed the mounting studs from the gauge and used double sided tape. I plan on repairing the dash and relocating those other 4 gauges this winter, then I'll permenantly mount the indicator a little higher. I highly recommend a similar location for anyone installing indicators. Location was as good as it gets on a Classic.

[gcarter]

Here's mine.
It's completely installed. I haven't had it in the water yet to calibrat it however.
So far I like it.
Here's some before and after pictures;

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=22864&d=1154981647

[mrfixxall]

OK...finally hooked up the gauge and got to use it. 3 great days of 9am to 7pm boating in BC's interior. What a great long weekend. :yes:
Interested in where you got this info from?? I tried everything to get the LEDs to bounce and no go. Solid in all conditions. Many hours were spent with the guage in direct sunlight and I had no problem seeing the LEDs, even with my sunglasses on.
I connected mine to direct battery power. After an outing, I use the dimmer to turn the LEDs off. Even if I forgot and left them at full brightness, it'd take weeks/months for the LEDs to kill the battery.
All in all, a very good product for only $140.
Pic shows the temporary mounting of the gauge. I removed the mounting studs from the gauge and used double sided tape. I plan on repairing the dash and relocating those other 4 gauges this winter, then I'll permenantly mount the indicator a little higher. I highly recommend a similar location for anyone installing indicators. Location was as good as it gets on a Classic.

BTW it was in a 27' baja with 4+footers....

[Ed Donnelly]

Yeller; What lake?? Kal or Okanagan.................Ed

[yeller]

BTW it was in a 27' baja with 4+footers....
:biggrin.: :biggrin.: Well if I'm bouncing off the tops of 4+footers in my 22, I could care less what the indicator says :biggrin: :biggrin:
I didn't notice mine bouncing in 2~3 footers.

Ed....Went to the Okanagan. 3 days to go the entire length and back with 5 other boats. Lots of rafting time. :wink:
Upheld Donzi's honour....fastest boat by 1mph. Just enough to really piss off my cousin :biggrin.:

[zimm17]

Looks like a nifty toy. Does it require cutting holes in the dash? I'd like to have one, but would feel much better with some industrial 3M sticky tape- I hate to drill holes for anything that won't last 30 years. I astill feel bad for drilling 3 holes for my Garmin 276 GPS mount- hopefully the mounts will always remain the same. I have memories of my dad's '69 7 meter that had who-knows how many generations of "things" bolted on, then removed, leaving holes everywhere.

[gcarter]

It will fit over an existing 2 1/8" diameter instrument hole. It even comes with a neat gasket for mounting on an instument hole that helpps to center it.
It would seem like it should last 30 years as there's no real complications to it. The device is simple, and all solid state. The pickups in the rams are also simple devices.

[DickB]

Well, I haven’t measured, but I did some back-of-the-envelope calculations.

A typical LED current draw is 10mA. Let’s say tabs are full down so you have 20+ LEDs on. 10mA x 20 = 200mA or .2A. Let’s say your battery is 100AH. 100AH / .2A = 500H. 500H / 24 H/day = 20 days. Hmmm. If your battery is not fully charged and you don’t use your boat for one or two weeks, you could have a problem.

If I get ambitious this weekend I’ll measure actual current draw on my indicator and report.

I contacted Bennett via email about this behavior of the intensity defaulting to mid level when switched off and back on. They said that they have received several inquiries like mine regarding a change in behavior and have turned it over to their engineer, but didn’t have a solution yet. They asked me for my address and phone number so that they could contact me if they came up with something.

[yeller]

Well I have 2 batteries...so I'm still not worried. :biggrin.:

[gcarter]

Also, most trailers wouldn't allow for full tab deployment. I think the fuse supplied with it is only .25 amp.

[yeller]

Also, most trailers wouldn't allow for full tab deployment.
The tabs on my 22C (as I think most others...newer ones anyway) came with the auto-retract which Bennett claims is to prevent trailer contact. From what I've seen on this site, it seems that US built trailers are too short and tab contact would never be an issue. Is it generally just the way most trailers are made for the 22C and other boat trailers actually have bunks that are too long?
I had to move my winch post forward 3" to get the boat sitting properly on the bunks. End of bunks are now flush with transom of boat.
I've also disconnected the auto-retract because I found it a pita to have to lower the tabs every time I started the engine. This is why I wanted the indicator in the first place...so I know how long I have to hold the switches till the tabs are fully down.