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View Full Version : Can I replace my cam without pulling engine in 22 classic?



zimm17
08-02-2006, 03:04 AM
I'm making a shopping list for AFR heads and crane valve train for my 454 mag. Thinking about a 168731 roller cam. Here's the million dollar question- do we have room to remove the cam out of the engine without unbolting or moving it? I really hope Donzi left enough room in the engine compartment.

Also, is there room install the heads over studs in the engine compartment, or should I stick with bolts?

Pismo
08-02-2006, 06:57 AM
The cam needs to pull straight out the front, so you need to remove the engine. Measure the new cam length and your clearance once you have all the accessories off the front of the engine.

Ryan23
08-02-2006, 07:11 AM
Also, is there room install the heads over studs in the engine compartment, or should I stick with bolts?

Every ARP stud I've seen in the last 4 years or so has been the allen head type. Meaning, clean the the threads in the block out, set the cylinder head on the dowels and screw the head studs in hand tight using an allen wrench. Make sure to use the ARP supplied moly lube on both sides though. The torque specs are specific to the ARP moly lube.

Ryan

Carl C
08-02-2006, 07:15 AM
You may be able to remove the alum. diamond plate panel from the firewall and bore a hole behind the rear seat cushion bottom. You'd need to measure closely to see if this is doable. It would be a whole lot easier then pulling the motor. The hole would not be visible in the engine compartment and you could put a plastic plug in the hole behind the seat bottom to give it a finished look.

BUIZILLA
08-02-2006, 07:37 AM
My Critter still has a 3" hole drilled through the seat bulkhead/battery box from the previous owner.......

what an idiot.

JH

Cuda
08-02-2006, 08:14 AM
Whether you could or could not would be a moot point with me. There is no way I'd invest that kind of coin, and time and not pull the engine. You'd ineveitably end up doing something half assed just for the simple reason you don't want to have to crawl back out of the bilge to get something. I think I paid less than $500 to pull the engine, and put it back in in the 22, and that was having to deal with the tranny too.

MOP
08-02-2006, 08:42 AM
Listen to the guys! An engine pull seems like a daunting task but is very simple, the biggest thing is to have a reliable lifting device and a half way decent tool box. That and about 1-1/2 hour and it is out and on the stand, you will be some happy compared to working in the bilge. Now you can do the work on the engine and also primp up the bilge! Being a salt boater like myself you can inspect the pan, trim fittings on teh transom shield and other things that sneak up on you. I was on the wrences many years, on quite a few twin engine boats it was easier to pull the engine to change a starter, you are worried about a cam!

Phil

mrfixxall
08-02-2006, 09:27 AM
pull the engine,its a 40 min job to get it out..

BUIZILLA
08-02-2006, 09:51 AM
Hey Carl.........

go ahead and drill that 3" hole in your boat and get back with us on that decision....... :yes: :wink:

JH

blackhawk
08-02-2006, 01:25 PM
pull the engine,its a 40 min job to get it out..

Exactly! You'll end up saving a ton of time(and bodyaches) in the long run by taking less than an hour and yanking the engine! :yes:

mrfixxall
08-02-2006, 04:33 PM
[QUOTE=zimm17]I'm making a shopping list for AFR heads and crane valve train for my 454 mag. Thinking about a 168731 roller cam. Here's the million dollar question- do we have room to remove the cam out of the engine without unbolting or moving it? I really hope Donzi left enough room in the engine compartment.
Also, is there room install the heads over studs in the engine compartment, or should I stick with bolts?[/QUOTE

if it were me i would go wit ha comp cam or a isky cam,crane are nice but ive more power gains with cc and isky..

arp makes a nice set of ss heal bolts for your application,studs are a pain if you run in salt water..after a whyle they seem to weld themselves to a alunimum head and you cant get them off with out cutting the studs to get them off..

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?

Cuda
08-02-2006, 04:55 PM
Hey Carl.........
go ahead and drill that 3" hole in your boat and get back with us on that decision....... :yes: :wink:
JH
Jim, keep in mind you are speaking to a guy that already took a sawzall to his boat.:eek!: :wink:

Carl C
08-02-2006, 07:52 PM
Yeah, BabyJim doesn't know me very well.:)

BUIZILLA
08-02-2006, 08:03 PM
removing the coffin was a brilliant idea............

drilling through the backseat bulkhead, and into the battery box, to remove the camshaft isn't so brilliant....

JH

zimm17
08-03-2006, 04:19 AM
OK, OK, so it looks like the engine is coming out this winter. What's involved in that process? Does the outdrive need to come off?

How do I pull the engine out? Can this be done at home with a homemade a-frame and chain hoist, or better left to a marina to r/r it?

boatnut
08-04-2006, 10:04 AM
Listen to the guys! An engine pull seems like a daunting task but is very simple, the biggest thing is to have a reliable lifting device and a half way decent tool box. That and about 1-1/2 hour and it is out and on the stand, you will be some happy compared to working in the bilge. Phil

It crossed my mind to pull the engine just for a complete maintenance update of changing all hoses, clean up all the paint, etc. etc. But compared to my experience with a nice simple H&M small block ford, the Merc 7.4L with all the hoses and hydraulics seems mucho complex!!! What are the basic steps from those of you who seem to do this without fear? I would assume you pull the drive, the manifolds, ???? What do you do in what order? Thks, Ed