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View Full Version : Securing seat base plate-HELP



tmdog
07-22-2006, 09:55 AM
The seat base plate pulled out of the square pedestal and yes they were secured w/ lag bolts. After running in the rough at AOTH, Lake Cumberland, I notced one of the bolts was loose and tried to tighten but was stripped. Yesterday hit a good size wake and pulled all 4 bolts out. I want to thru bolt the seat base back on with poly locks. How do you access this area under the floor to secure the nuts? Would I have to cut a hole in the stringer for access? Sure would like to know. Anyone?

gcarter
07-22-2006, 10:13 AM
Shortly after I got the Minx I determined the original seat bases weren't going to cut it so I did the following;
http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1084&d=1079225527
This allowed me to install some Garelick sliders with a bolt pattern I added to the Garelicks.
To secure the bolts through the top of the pedastal, I used some T-nuts inserted from the bottom and retained with some #6 (I think) screws and nuts.
http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1085&d=1079225527
The 3/8" T-nuts I used were carbon steel from Lowes, but I noticed SST versions are available from Worst Marine and probably from www.mcmastercarr.com.
I think the hole saw I used was 4" diameter. It's gotta be big enough to get your hand through. It's also useful to retrieve things from the outside of the stringers.

tmdog
07-22-2006, 11:27 AM
George, That is a clever way of securing base plate. I think I'll use your method with some variation. Sure beats cutting the stringer. Was worried of making a weak point and trying to patch the stringer hole. Thanks for the advice and pics. Jim

mrfixxall
07-22-2006, 01:14 PM
George, That is a clever way of securing base plate. I think I'll use your method with some variation. Sure beats cutting the stringer. Was worried of making a weak point and trying to patch the stringer hole. Thanks for the advice and pics. Jim

jim,you can take off your wisky bump rail and take the screws out ware the top and hull meet and jack up ware the seats bolt and slide your hand in between the stringer and the floor...Just watch ware donzi layed a section of fiberglass from the floor to the stringers..some have it some dont.someone also makes those t nuts that carter discribed that have little spikes sticking out of them...

tmdog
07-22-2006, 02:38 PM
Fixall, Separating the hull seems like a lot of work. Age is making me less flexible and try to avoid excess work whenever possible. When I answered Carter, I stated I would use a vaiation of his idea. I was thinking of cutting a 4 or 6 inch hole in front of the pedestal to access the bottom. To cover the round hole I was thinking of a deck plate that Worst Marine sells. If the integrity of the floor is an issue, reinforcing would be needed. What do you all think?

mrfixxall
07-22-2006, 02:43 PM
Fixall, Separating the hull seems like a lot of work. Age is making me less flexible and try to avoid excess work whenever possible. When I answered Carter, I stated I would use a vaiation of his idea. I was thinking of cutting a 4 or 6 inch hole in front of the pedestal to access the bottom. To cover the round hole I was thinking of a deck plate that Worst Marine sells. If the integrity of the floor is an issue, reinforcing would be needed. What do you all think?

Or mabe use a hole saw and cut a round hole in the seat mount..

gcarter
07-22-2006, 03:28 PM
There are two reasons for my solution, the first is it doesn't weaken the the pedistal at all. Secondly, the seat base (slider) covers up the hole.
FWIW, I also sealed the plywood coring through the hole I cut with some thin epoxy. The core will never rot because of the epoxy.

hardcrab
07-22-2006, 04:28 PM
a suggestion for anyone in the middle of a deck off restoration ;
I've used aluminum plate drilled and tapped for the seat pedistals (I used 10"x10"x1/2") that will sandwich the floor, to take it a step furthur and I'll have pieces TIG'ed that fasten to the stringer thus eliminating the need for glass layup attaching the deck.
the stringer plates will be tapped and just a clearance hole in the stringers. if ever nessecary, the assembly can be removed thru the floor hatch.

tmdog
07-22-2006, 05:31 PM
It is helpful all this info comes out. I split the deck 2 yrs. to replace the fuel tank. I made some minor changes but overlooked many other problem areas. Beefing up the pedestals and painting inside the bow area for one. Thanks for all those that answered. Your suggestions are very useful. Thanks, Jim