SBC head torque sequence

[Cuda]

I have a diagram with the steps for torqueing the heads on my other computer, which has taken a dump on me. The puter is in the shop. Can someone post the sequence, and the steps for the ft/pnds?

Thanks

[Cuda]

I found it. If anyone else needs it, here it is.

[Carl C]

You don't need a torque sequence. Always start at the center most bolt and tighten them in an outer spiral pattern in at least 3 steps. Clean the bolt threads on a wire wheel and blow out the holes with compressed air and put a little light oil on the bolts or RTV on ones that go into an open water jacket. I was a heavy repair auto mechanic for over 20 years.

[MOP]

i greatly disagree and if you wish, we can go in depth with this if you like :)
JR


Ditto big time!

[Cuda]

I'm sure that GM put plenty of research on the best way to torque down heads. I've done plenty on different engines over my life, and I always follow the manufactorer's reccomendation on torque sequence. I've never had one fail due not being torqued right. I had several fail on a Toyota pickup I had, until I finally took the head to a machine shop, and take the warp out of the aluminum head. :)

[Carl C]

i greatly disagree and if you wish, we can go in depth with this if you like :)
JR Rootsy, only if we keep it friendly! I would like to know what you disagree about? Remember that I'm not talking about torque to yield engines. That's a whole nother animal where the bolts actually stretch and can not be re-used.:) Also I have done hundreds of heads on all sorts of engines this way. (but not the torque to yield ones) I speak from experience!:)

[Cuda]

Jamie, do you think it's necesarry to change the head bolts everytime you pull a head?

[Cuda]

I've read not to use any kind of gasket sealant on the head or block. I know whoever did this engine before I took it apart used some. I just finished scraping the last of it off. I rolled the engine back into my air conditioned area of the shop, instead of out in the hot ass garage. Much more pleasant working conditions. :)

[Cuda]

Which thread sealant should I use?

[Cuda]

you should only use a "sealant" on a head gasket if it is a steel shim or rubber coated steel shim.. in which case you need to have a very smooth surface finish and you can use something like 3 or 4 coats of permatex hi-tack spray adhesive / sealant... most should shy away from steel shims unless tehy KNOW that the deck and heads are FLAT and meet the required Ra for surface finish... even with sealant they'll leak... otherwise MLS (laminated) head gaskets need no sealant... don't use any... it could very well cause you to spring a leak... water or combustion.
i'd use the stuff in the package...
I didn't get your reply in time, so I called my dad. He was in complete agreement. Halfway home, one more head to go. It's a lot easier with Debbie reading the order, and pointing to which bolt is next.:)

[Carl C]

I used to use the copper hi-tack spray sealant. It was good insurance against "comebacks". Rootsy I agree with you but not for routine work. Mechanics are paid on flat rate (commission) and most heavy work was warranty which pays less and you must really bust your ass and pump out work or you won't make any money. I would wire wheel the bolts, blast out the holes with air (at which point I'd find the open holes) spray wd-40 equivalant on them:eek!: and, yes, a little grease on the bolt flange and assemble as I indicated. The center outward spiral pattern of tightening sequence is a general rule when the specs aren't handy. BTW I once cracked an aluminum block when I tightened a bolt sealed with RTV into a blind hole:eek!: We warranteed the block.:lookarounCuda, you didn't ask me but IMO you should use new aftermarket bolts for any high performance or marine engine.

[Cuda]

The second head is on and torqued. I want to put the intake on, but my assistant is pleading she has an earache. I told her to suck it up, and come on.

On the intake, a lot of folks say they don't use the end gaskets on the block, they use a silicone sealant instead. I've always put the gasket on, and a touch of number two Permatex in the very corner where it meets the headgasket. Opinions?

[Carl C]

I cut down the ends (keeping the tab) so they don't bow out so much and use a contact adhesive sealer on them to hold them to the block and spray high-tack on top and a little RTV in the corners. Definately do not leave them out.

[BUIZILLA]

I haven't used them in 15-20 years.....

:cool:

[Rootsy]

Permatex Ultra black... bead across both china walls, head to head... and a dab under the intake manifold corners first.. overlap the bead on top of the gasket just a tad... do not fire the motor, prime the motor, etc until it has setup...

[Carl C]

I've been out voted!:( But I think some people leave them out because this is an easy spot to screw up and I know how to make them work.:wink:

[Cuda]

Is RTV black sufficient? I have a tube of that.