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sweet 16 1966
07-11-2006, 08:50 PM
Where can I find rubrail for the 16'?

How difficult is it to replace the gimble ring? I have the part. Gen 1 Mercruser B4 Alpha.

gcarter
07-11-2006, 09:06 PM
Is that the stock TACO Metals stuff you can get from West Marine?

Bearing....they're pretty easy to pull, use a slide hammer puller with three internal fingers.
They're a lot harder to install w/o the right driver. It can be done though.

sweet 16 1966
07-11-2006, 09:22 PM
George, I will try West, tks.
Gimble bearing? No, Its the ring left outside the transom after you have pulled the drive. The lower pin is worn out . Much play which is why I lost steering control near top end on re-entry. Popped the rubrail. Strong G force was felt during 90 degree turn. Split deck from hull in 6 foot section.
DO NOT WANT TO EXPERIENCE THAT AGAIN. Limped home just above idle- embarassed but under power! No one saw it and no one was around. Best to travel in pairs.

g-tech
07-11-2006, 09:25 PM
If you don't want to keep the rail original I would go with a plastic backer and a stainless insert. Available from Kellogg or Morgan distributers in a couple different styles and colors. Looks killer however it's hard on other's boats.

The gimbal ring is very different from the gimble bearing that you have been previously instructed on how to remove. If you are asking about the gimble bearing a slide hammer will work and you can do it without a driver. However gcarter left out the fact that you will need the merc alignment tool to align the inner bearing race with the engine coupler in order the reinstall the drive back on the boat. You can probally talk a local dealer into lending one out.

gcarter
07-12-2006, 04:21 AM
George, I will try West, tks.
Gimble bearing? No, Its the ring left outside the transom after you have pulled the drive. The lower pin is worn out . Much play which is why I lost steering control near top end on re-entry. Popped the rubrail. Strong G force was felt during 90 degree turn. Split deck from hull in 6 foot section.
DO NOT WANT TO EXPERIENCE THAT AGAIN. Limped home just above idle- embarassed but under power! No one saw it and no one was around. Best to travel in pairs.
Glad I wasn't aboard!!!!:eek!: :eek!: :eek!:
Sorry Rus, I mis read your question.
I would pull the assembly and do it right. Rebuild the whole thing. If the upper pin isn't worn out, the cost is pretty minimal.
If you remove the bell housing (two threaded pins, lots of ooomph), you can access the lower pin. It's usually pretty hard to drive out the old pin and its bearing. You have to align the new pin for a cotter (very frusfrating) on installation.

sweet 16 1966
07-12-2006, 04:55 PM
Thanks George.

If I had used the screws you put onto your rubrail, maybe it would still be together. Thats Ok though, I will build it better if I do take it apart.
The Gimble ring may be a challange but I will persevere.

gcarter
07-12-2006, 08:15 PM
Rus, you may not need to replace the whole ring. Probably you will only have to replace the lower steering pin, its bearing and seals. Sometimes the bell housing holes for the mounting pins wear, but even that can be fixed.
The hard parts are to remove the bellhousing pins (they're installed with a lot of torque and RED thread locker) sometimes you have to heat the ring.
Next the cotter through the lower steering pin must be removed. They are usually rusted in place. Sometimes you can use large needle nose pliers and twist them and litterally roll the cotter out of the hole. On mine, after both ends of the cotter broke off, I had to drive the cotter out with a small nail set. Once the cotter is out, you can drive the lower steering pin upwards from below the gimbal housing.