All tooled up...oxidation be gone!

[Tony]

As usual, things just don't seem to be as easy as one would hope for.
I restored the deck stripe on my formerly pink 22' classic by hand, starting with 600 grit, then 800, 1000, 1200, and 1500. Then 3M Super Duty, and Finesse-It.

The hullsides were more of a bitch, though, so I bought a Hutchins 7544 Water-Bug III (http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/Hutchins/hutchins.html) to assist me. The wet-sander was $215, and then I bought $125 worth of Mirka 6" no-hole hook & loop discs...50 each of 400-1500 grit, using the same grit steps as mentioned above.

I went around the boat twice with the 400 grit, then twice with 600, then once with 800...and that is where I am at right now. It takes about 3 hours to go once around the boat, and a paper disc is only good for about 3 square feet!

After sanding I will again use my Makita 9227C (http://www.autogeek.net/ma927po.html) to apply the 3M Super Duty and Finesse-It, then finish off with Starbrite Marine Polish with PTET. If the hullsides turn out like my deck stripe I will be very happy, despite the amount of time and effort it is taking. If I get fading or chalking over time I will be pissed, and will likely resort to painting the red since I do not suspect the thickness of the gel will withstand another wet-sanding project.

I'm amazed when I read about people who say they had heavy oxidation, used a rotary polisher and Product X, and it came out looking like new. All I can figure is that they must have had light oxidation. Also, the compounds are oil-based, which gives a temporary appearance of looking great, only to fade again soon when the product is washed or worn off.

Hopefully I am tackling this problem the right way, and, by using a good UV polish plus keeping the boat covered and/or inside, it will continue to look good for years to come.

[CHACHI]

Tony...........good looking lawn.........bluegrass and fescue blend? Possible Scotts commerical? Oh yeah, the boats looking very good too. Will it be finished before Heidi's big day? ken

[EricG]

I think your trim tab is mounted a bit low...it might slow you down :wink: :eek!:

Boat looks great - any before pictures so we can really admire how far you've come?

Can't wait to see the finished product!

EG

[MOP]

I think your trim tab is mounted a bit low! Hmmm I thought that was a speed governor! Yeah the Scotts 2+2 has done a nice job now quit screwing around and work on the darn boat:bonk:

[Pismo]

I have found nothing that will stop oxidation. Meguiars, collinte insulator wax, starbrite teflon, miracle coat, I have tried many and the ever so slight, but clearly there fuzzy red begins to return within days even when stored in a garage out of the water, no sun or wind. Please post if you find something good. Imron clearcoat I hear works but $$$$. I agree with your thoughts on compound giving a somewhat false impression upon completion, it nevers looks quite so good even the next day. Sanding is the way to go it seems.

[Trueser]

Tony,
Looks great, My sides were alot worse than what yours looked like.The best way to keep the sides would be a full cover that covers the sides.

I saw a boat the other day with clear coat and I wouldnt do it.

Mike

Call me.....

[farmer tx]

Your doing it right. It just takes time.

[Just Say N20]

I hope there is a good answer for Tony regarding the "what to do now that it looks great" next step. I did the same project with my 1979, and it looked FANTASTIC, for about 2 weeks. Then the oxidation started to return. I actually used a product I had experienced good results from, called Buff Magic (from Wolf's Marine in Benton Harbor, MI). After that I applied three coats of teflon wax.

I would also love to hear what has worked for others, besides clear coating the hull.

[Tony]

I figure I've got about 40 hours into wet-sanding, hullsides and transom only. I am very anxious to start using the polisher and 3M products, that is where the true red should really stand out. I have absolutely no "ghosting" where my old decals were, so I think that I am good to go.

The Mirka sandpaper rep sent me 4 free discs of a synthetic product called "Abralon", it is equal to 2000 grit sandpaper. So, after using 1500 grit I finished up with these, and I must say I can see NO scratches at all, even before compounding.

3M Heavy Duty w/ a wool pad, Finesse-It w/ a foam pad, Starbrite Polish, re-install the hardware & the pinstriping, take some pictures...and then hit the lake!


:beer:

[boldts]

Tony, she's looking great. You've put alot of time and hard work into bring her back to her brand new luster and it shows.

Eric, picture on the left shows you the before and after. Left transom vs right transom and center stripe.

Who the heck cares about grass in Michigan? Heck it's covered by snow for 9 months out of the year. LOL :)

[Tony]

I have no good "before" shot, a camera really cannot show the pink as well as seeing it in person. The top stripe was WAY pink, and the hullsides/transom, especially near the transom, was quite faded, also. I finally put the first coat of polish on it today, and it looks fantastic! Another coat of Starbrite tomorrow and I should be good to go!

Scott Boldts, thanks for the encouraging words. It was indeed a tedious and lengthy task, but today I felt that the time and effort was well worth it.

Just Say N2O, I am sure hoping that this process lasts tons longer than two weeks! The only thing I can do is keep it layered with a UV polish, and out of the sun for storage. If the oxidation returns I guess I would have to consider painting the red, but I am hoping that is many years down the road.

[Premierproperties]

has anyone used the product vertglas oxidation remover????
www.marinestore.com/Vertglas.html

[techspecial]

I was wondering someone was going to mention this product...I used it for years on my red/black Four Winns.
The oxidation remover is just a compound like the 3M products.
Maybe a little less aggresive that the Super Duty. The sealer however
I found to be the ONLY thing that kept my red/black from turning pink/grey.
If your a fussy see 2 feet into the shine guy I don't recommend it.
If your a guy who keeps his boat uncovered outside in the beating sun
and you don't want it to look crappy in a month then I'd try it.
It's a polymer coating that is applied with a special leather applicator.
It takes about ten coats but the stuff dries about as quick as you put it on so you're working continuously. There's also a special spray on remover that strips the stuff off if you don't like it or you've done something stupid. I like that! I'll be applying it to the red stripe on my Minx this week. The first couple of coats look real bad and you'll start thinking that you've made a mistake but hang in there the more you put on (THIN THIN THIN!!!) the better it starts to look.
Get it from Lovett Marine it's cheapest there

[Pismo]

Three years later, how is it holding up? What have you learned? Hope it looks good still. I am researching paint and painters. I'm tired of gel, my 10 year old gas grill has a better finish than my boat after hours of buffing.

[hot shot]

Tont: Is your mirka rep Mike Duran ? I am a paint and bodyshop supplier in taylor mi. and we are into mirka... we were the title sponsor for aoth this year... look at www.mwdonziclub.com (http://www.mwdonziclub.com) , I don't my link hooked up to get into my web site cuz it is so out dated.... good luck with your project... if you did dicied to clear the stripe and sides hit me up we have a pretty new clear that is very mar, chemical, and grafitti resistant.... the boat looks great and the lawn too Mick

[hot shot]

I.m sorry tony i missed a key

[Tony]

Mick, I don't recall who the Mirka rep was. It doesn't look like I'll be clear-coating my red, but if I ever change my mind I'll be sure to look you and your shop up. Obviously, after seeing pics of your boat, I would not hesitate to follow your recommendations!

Pismo, so far so good! After the wet-sanding adventureI have used nothing but Leverage Polish, just once a year. I see no evidence of oxidation returning, and am very happy with the results of the sanding project and the protection of the polish.

With that said, however, remember that my boat is stored all summer long in an enclosed portable garage, and only sees the sun on the days that I boat.

:beer:

[jvcobra]

Sorry to dig up an old thread but I'm looking to purchase the Hutchinson 7545 water bug sander. Do you know what Mirka paper you used? Was it the Abralon (http://mirka-online.com/index.php/mirka-abrasives/mirka-abralon-foam-backed-abrasives-8a-series/mirka-abralon-6-foam-grip-disc.html) Series?

Mirka's website states this is designed for wet DA sanders but it sure is expensive!

Thanks

[Speed Racer]

As usual, things just don't seem to be as easy as one would hope for.
I restored the deck stripe on my formerly pink 22' classic by hand, starting with 600 grit, then 800, 1000, 1200, and 1500. Then 3M Super Duty, and Finesse-It.

The hullsides were more of a bitch, though, so I bought a Hutchins 7544 Water-Bug III (http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/Hutchins/hutchins.html) to assist me. The wet-sander was $215, and then I bought $125 worth of Mirka 6" no-hole hook & loop discs...50 each of 400-1500 grit, using the same grit steps as mentioned above.

I went around the boat twice with the 400 grit, then twice with 600, then once with 800...and that is where I am at right now. It takes about 3 hours to go once around the boat, and a paper disc is only good for about 3 square feet!

After sanding I will again use my Makita 9227C (http://www.autogeek.net/ma927po.html) to apply the 3M Super Duty and Finesse-It, then finish off with Starbrite Marine Polish with PTET. If the hullsides turn out like my deck stripe I will be very happy, despite the amount of time and effort it is taking. If I get fading or chalking over time I will be pissed, and will likely resort to painting the red since I do not suspect the thickness of the gel will withstand another wet-sanding project.

I'm amazed when I read about people who say they had heavy oxidation, used a rotary polisher and Product X, and it came out looking like new. All I can figure is that they must have had light oxidation. Also, the compounds are oil-based, which gives a temporary appearance of looking great, only to fade again soon when the product is washed or worn off.

Hopefully I am tackling this problem the right way, and, by using a good UV polish plus keeping the boat covered and/or inside, it will continue to look good for years to come.


I am not sure if you have any interest.. But.. I am looking to do the same sort of deal on my slow boat (11 hp and lots of Dacron)..
Any interest in selling the package and any leftovers you have once you are done with the project?
It might help you to offset the cost, and I will love to save a bit of money on the tools needed to do the job.
Thanks!
Garry

[jvcobra]

I figure I've got about 40 hours into wet-sanding, hullsides and transom only. I am very anxious to start using the polisher and 3M products, that is where the true red should really stand out. I have absolutely no "ghosting" where my old decals were, so I think that I am good to go.

The Mirka sandpaper rep sent me 4 free discs of a synthetic product called "Abralon", it is equal to 2000 grit sandpaper. So, after using 1500 grit I finished up with these, and I must say I can see NO scratches at all, even before compounding.

3M Heavy Duty w/ a wool pad, Finesse-It w/ a foam pad, Starbrite Polish, re-install the hardware & the pinstriping, take some pictures...and then hit the lake!


:beer:

I must have missed this post, looks like you did use the Abralon. :bonk:

[michael belisle]

HI TONY I ADMIRE YOUR PERSISTANCE I HAVE HAD BOATS ALL MY LIFE AND OWN A AUTO BODY SHOP FOR 30 YEARS I DO WORK FOR SOME OF THE LOCAL BOAT YARDS AS FAR AS APPEARANCE GOES I DO NOT WANT TO SEEM A DOWNER BUT ONCE THE GEL HAS SUFFERED DIEBACK BE IT EVER SO SLIGHT IT WILL BE BACK MORE SO WITH RED IF AND WHEN IT COMES BACK I WOULD PAINT IT WITH GOOD URETHANE BASE COAT CLEARCOAT PAINT THE U/V PROTECTION IS EXC GARRANTEED 5 YEARS FROM THE MANUFACTURER WITHOUT HIDDING FROM THE SUN.AS FAR AS ALGRIP GOES IT IS BASICALLY THE SAME AS WHAT IS ON THE BOAT FROM THE FACTORY NOT MUCH U/V PROTECTION IN THE PIGMENTION.URETHANE PAINT IS VERY EASY TO REPAIR IF SCRATCHED AND JUST SPOTTED IN CHEAP FIX GOOD LUCK TONY.:crossfing: :)

[Tony]

I must have missed this post, looks like you did use the Abralon. :bonk:

I used the Abralon 2000 synthetic discs last, after using the Mirka 6" hook & loop discs.

:beer:

[Tony]

I am not sure if you have any interest.. But.. I am looking to do the same sort of deal on my slow boat (11 hp and lots of Dacron)..
Any interest in selling the package and any leftovers you have once you are done with the project?
It might help you to offset the cost, and I will love to save a bit of money on the tools needed to do the job.
Thanks!
Garry

Garry, I don't have too many sanding discs left so I can't help you much there.
Plus...different projects require different starting points, grit-wise.

I'd rather not sell my sander...who knows when I or a buddy might need it again.
That said, however, I would be glad to lend it to you if you are interested.

:beer:

[jvcobra]

I used the Abralon 2000 synthetic discs last, after using the Mirka 6" hook & loop discs.

:beer:

Oh, ok. It looks like the Abralon comes in several different grits. Since you used both do you think It would be best to stick to using all Abralon discs from the start or just as a final sanding? Does the water flow through the disc any better than the hook and loop ones?

Thanks

[Tony]

The Hutchins DA sander does a nice job, the water flow is good with both types of discs. It seemed to me that the Abralon synthetic discs lasted longer, but I'm not sure if it is made in the coarser grits. I do remember being amazed at how hard gel is, one sanding disc would only last for about 2 or 3 sq. ft. - then it had to be tossed away.

:beer:

[jvcobra]

Ok, thanks. The Abralon goes from 180 grit to 4000, I may just try both types of discs.

[Tony]

Ok, thanks. The Abralon goes from 180 grit to 4000, I may just try both types of discs.

The Mirka rep I dealt with was pretty excited about the Abralon product...back when I used it it was fairly new. So, if it is indeed offered in a variety of grits, you may want to give it a try. I'm pretty sure they would last longer than standard discs, but whether the extra expense (assuming they are pricier) is worth it or not I cannot comment on.

Keep up posted with what you end up doing...

:beer:

[Kirbyvv]

So, I'm looking to dive into the wet sanding on the X-18. I assume you end up sanding through the pin stripes on either side of the main stripe on the deck. The pin stripes look to be painted. What or how did you replace them???

[Tony]

My pin stripes were 1/4" wide black tape.
When I replaced them (deck and hullsides) I went to a 3/8" width, just for a bit more contrast.
3M makes them in a wide variety of colors and widths.

:beer: