onesubdrvr
04-26-2006, 03:07 PM
Well,
I've been shopping for my motor for the X, and just about the time I narrowed it down, I got my new issue of Hot Boat Mag.
Inside is an article describing an automotive engine vs marine engine
In this article, the explain the differences between the two.
They state that your ring end-gap, and cylinder to wall clearances should be slightly larger than normal.
Now, if memory serves me correctly, top ring (auto with cast pistons) would be .012-.020, middle .018-.025 and oil control .015-.055. So if you should run clearances larger than normal, where should you be for a marine engine? Obviousilly the higher you go, the quicker a cylinder will leak down, and perhaps lower compression (?). Also curious as to things to ask to "spot check" knowledge of engine builders when specifying that you want a marine engine built (they should know of the clearance issue / etc.).
Also, besides the end-gap and wall clearances, what other clearances to be concerned of?
The article also states that automotive crate engines are a 2nd choice (behind a crate engine from mercruiser / etc.) because of the clearance issues, but will be fine if broken in properly (opening up the clearances a little). So, does anyone have a PROPER breake in procedure so that no-one ruins a crate engine?
I was looking at the HT383 crate, and don't want to spend the $$ if I run the risk of screwin it up because of clearance issues!!
Also article recommends changing valves in the heads to stainless / inconel - makes sense.
I hope my questions make sense and are justified,......or am I just paranoid because I'm looking for a crate engine vice having one specifically rebuilt as I did with the Ragazza?
Thanks Y'all
Wayne
I've been shopping for my motor for the X, and just about the time I narrowed it down, I got my new issue of Hot Boat Mag.
Inside is an article describing an automotive engine vs marine engine
In this article, the explain the differences between the two.
They state that your ring end-gap, and cylinder to wall clearances should be slightly larger than normal.
Now, if memory serves me correctly, top ring (auto with cast pistons) would be .012-.020, middle .018-.025 and oil control .015-.055. So if you should run clearances larger than normal, where should you be for a marine engine? Obviousilly the higher you go, the quicker a cylinder will leak down, and perhaps lower compression (?). Also curious as to things to ask to "spot check" knowledge of engine builders when specifying that you want a marine engine built (they should know of the clearance issue / etc.).
Also, besides the end-gap and wall clearances, what other clearances to be concerned of?
The article also states that automotive crate engines are a 2nd choice (behind a crate engine from mercruiser / etc.) because of the clearance issues, but will be fine if broken in properly (opening up the clearances a little). So, does anyone have a PROPER breake in procedure so that no-one ruins a crate engine?
I was looking at the HT383 crate, and don't want to spend the $$ if I run the risk of screwin it up because of clearance issues!!
Also article recommends changing valves in the heads to stainless / inconel - makes sense.
I hope my questions make sense and are justified,......or am I just paranoid because I'm looking for a crate engine vice having one specifically rebuilt as I did with the Ragazza?
Thanks Y'all
Wayne