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View Full Version : What steps to pull a Bravo-1?



RickSE
04-25-2006, 05:38 PM
I need to check my alignment. Anyone know what’s required to pull a Bravo-1 off the transom assembly? Any specific steps like putting it in neutral or anything? I pulled my Alpha a few years ago with the manual but I don't have a manual yet for the Bravo.

mrfixxall
04-25-2006, 05:53 PM
1)get a bravo 1 o ring drive kit (it comes with the small o rings only the big o ring is reusable and is spring loaded in the gimble housing.

2)put into forward

3)discennect speedo tube between the rams with the drive up (its between the drive and the gimble housing)

4)lower drive and disconnect the rams (5/8 socket and a wrench and you dont have to take doth nuts off the pin will slide out in one direction or the other...watch out for spacers ware the pin goes through for proper trim position..

5) loosen the 6 5/8 nuts and take them off,lift the drive by hand and let go of it this will make the drive slide a tad bit back then on the rt side of the drive their will be a shift cable....lift the tab up and the shift cable will come out..

6)then the drive should come off,,,if you have a drive fluid resivour green fluid will spill out so you may wanrt to have a pan handy...

7)When checking the aleignment you can use a old input shaft spline with a pipe welded to it or the aleignment tool.rotate the motor every 90 deg to make sure you have proper aleignment....


8) GOOD LUCK

RedDog
04-26-2006, 07:53 AM
...
2)put into forward
...

I think this piece of advise bears further discussion - I'm pretty sure the shifter should be left in neuutral on a Bravo drive

MOP
04-26-2006, 11:43 AM
Neutral!!!! As precuation the Merc shop out here disconnects the shift cable at the converter, they had several bent/ruined cable ends requiring them to be changed. My bud there says pull it any way you like but pull the cable loose before reinstall, it is simple with the cable free get the drive close slip the end into the latch and shove the whole Biz into the drive then shove the drive home with -0- sweat on ruining the cable which is """SUCH AN EASY JOB TO CHANGE"""

Phil

GBTN!

RickSE
04-26-2006, 01:31 PM
You guys are scaring me now. Maybe I should get a manual first?

I've got the alignment tool and did an alignment check on my old 18 a few years ago. Since I have the tool and I'd have to drive 2-hours to a qualified shop I think I'll do it myself. I just hope it's still in alignment because realigning this motor will be a pain in the butt if it's off. I think I'm at 85 hours and would like to do this before taking the boat out this summer.

Thanks for the advice.

RedDog
04-26-2006, 02:15 PM
I'm not that mechanically inclined and I found it to be a piece of cake to remove and reinstall. Put a piece of carpet or old blanket under the skag to be sure you don't scrape it. Don't forget the speedo connection - I did at first. And keep the shifter in neutral.

And it is very heavy so have a helped if you need to move it much

mrfixxall
04-26-2006, 04:49 PM
done lots in forward gear and never bent a cable.....when i installthem then i put it back in nutral

KRAVEN
04-26-2006, 07:47 PM
Keep shifter in neutral dont forget speedo tube.If you have lube resoviour you will have to drain lube first.

RedDog
04-27-2006, 07:13 AM
Keep shifter in neutral dont forget speedo tube.If you have lube resoviour you will have to drain lube first.
There is a spring loaded valve that shuts the resevior oil flow off automatically when the drive is pulled - at least on my '98 model Bravo drive. Its like a button - when pushed in oil flows and when released oil stops. When the drive is mounted the button is pushed in.

Avialanche
04-27-2006, 08:18 AM
Best to have extra help when reinstalling outdrive(Bravo's are heavier than Alpha's), it's really hard to line-up input shaft, hold gimble housing & outdrive square and support the weight of the outdrive at the same time.

Woodsy
04-27-2006, 08:43 AM
You don't have to drain the Lube Bottle... just pinch it off or plug it. You don't want air in that line if you can avoid it...

Woodsy

mrfixxall
04-27-2006, 10:05 AM
"NOTE'' The reason i pull the drives off in gear is so you can turn the lower prop shaft to line the splines up so the drive goes on easy...

TBroccoli
04-27-2006, 03:36 PM
About your note. Don't you put the gear in neutral when re-installing?

RickSE
05-16-2006, 11:49 AM
I pulled the drive off on Saturday, came off fine and I pulled it in neutral. The alignment looks good.:rlol: I was a little surprised that the Bravo used the same end of the alignment tool as the Alpha; I originally thought the Bravo used the other end. So what does the other align? Now I'm just waiting on new O-rings to put it back together.

Does anyone know the torque spec. on the bell housing nuts to reattach the drive?

Also, I was finally able to get an accurate measurement of my "X" dim., looks like 15 1/2", up 1" from stock.

Thanks for the help guys.

TMANN
05-16-2006, 06:11 PM
I am tring to take mine off right now but am having a problem. I can only remove it about a half an Inch then it just is stuck. I removed the Speedo Tube, all six nuts and rams. What could I be missing or could somthing else be stuck? Thanks in advance...

TMANN

RickSE
05-16-2006, 06:19 PM
TMANN,
Mine slid off until the studs were no longer exposed. I then had to reach in the gap and disconnect the shift cable before it would come the rest of the way off. The cable drops into a detent with a retainer on the top. Lift up on the top retainer along with the cable and the cable end will pop loose. Hope this helps.

TMANN
05-16-2006, 06:30 PM
RickSE,

I figured that was what should happen but mine only comes about a half an inch and it’s not enough to get a finger in to release the cable. The cable feels tight maybe it’s stopping it but I have no idea how to release it more. I have it in neutral so im not sure???

TMANN

RickSE
05-16-2006, 07:16 PM
Mine seemed to pop into gear, forward or reverse at the drive, when I started to pull it off. This exposed the cable detent a little more and opened the gap so I could get access to and disconnect the cable. The drive was definetly in gear after I pulled it off, input shaft turns the prop shaft.

TMANN
05-16-2006, 07:24 PM
RickSE,

Thanks for your help I just got it. I put it in Forward and it was able to come out enough to get the cable unhooked. Hopefully its this easy to put back on...

Thanks again.

TMANN

MOP
05-16-2006, 08:50 PM
Make sure it is in neutral going back on, the local Merc shop disconnects the cable at the converter to play safe plus it makes it real easy to get the end into the cables reciever.

Phil

bob haver
05-16-2006, 09:39 PM
hi rick torque specs are 50ft pounds

mrfixxall
05-17-2006, 08:59 AM
hi rick torque specs are 50ft pounds

Start at 25-30 in a cris cross pattern,then torque to 50 ft lb..no turque specs on the rams just tighten them down,you may want to also greece the bushings and cross shaft on the rams..

RickSE
05-17-2006, 12:55 PM
Got mine back on last night with no major problems. I did disconnect the shift cable at the engine to keep it from binding and then hooked it back up after the drive was tight. Hopefully everything is correct, I'll find out tonight when I start it up again.

Thanks guys; I actually stopped at 50ft lbs last night.

Is there supposed to be water in the cavity for the shift cable connection on the drive? The drive to bell housing surface is o-ringed and there is a seal on the shift cable where it pops through the bell housing but my cavity had water in it. I cleaned it out as best I could, put marine grease on the cable connection, used a new o-ring and put sealant on the cable fitting. Hopefully this will help keep the water out.

Now my only problem is the $11.00 quart of Merc. HiPo lube that tipped over last night and spilled all over the garage floor while I was sleeping.:bawling: