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View Full Version : K-Plane, BUSTED!!!!



blueliner
03-12-2006, 06:50 PM
hey guys,

beautiful day here in bc decidied to take the boat out. very short trip... my left k-plane is broken. the very thin silver rod (the one that collapses inside itself) looks like a coat hanger. it is tweaked real gooood!!! i thought something was funky when i tried to pull the tab in, and the attitude of the boat didn't change the way i wanted it to. is this thing the mechanical cable that sends the trim tab position up to the gauge?? if not what is it called so i can get another one asap. rick, looks like i will be calling your dad on this one. what do these go for, if anyone knows. thanks in advance.

really wanted to get out today. sucks too, it will be raining the rest of the week.

Cuda
03-12-2006, 08:14 PM
I just had to change the indicator cables on my Formula. It would look like the tab wasn't working, but it was. The cable wouldn't slide, but bowed out instead.

Ed Donnelly
03-12-2006, 08:33 PM
Your indicator cable may be shot, BUT has nothing to do with the operation of the plane itself.. Check the fuse at that planes pump. Each pump has its own inline fuse right at the pump. Found this out the hard way. Now I carry two spare fuses.........Ed

MOP
03-12-2006, 09:07 PM
You got that right the K's hyd ram would either bend it like a bow or just snap it, like Ed said you have some other problem. Fuse would be great but you could have bad contact at any connection point. The indicator cables timing on screwing up was fate!
You still need the control cable 33 C's have the length impressed in the housing not far from the ends, you can get them ahead of time, well worth doing both the job can be a bugger. Hopefully you can see the markings easily.

Phil

blueliner
03-13-2006, 12:07 AM
once i got the boat on the lift, the k still will go up and down. it just wants to bend that thing so i stopped messing w/ it. just wanted to make sure it was still moving. also, the indicator shows that the tab is all the way down even though it isn't. what would that mean. has the cable snapped inside.

have you guys seen these?? are these better and less hassle than the merc ones?? they look interesting...

www.rickracers.com/product_info.php?cPath=129_693&products_id=2730

how big of a job is this. my rig is still under warranty, but just curious??

thanks


You got that right the K's hyd ram would either bend it like a bow or just snap it, like Ed said you have some other problem. Fuse would be great but you could have bad contact at any connection point. The indicator cables timing on screwing up was fate!
You still need the control cable 33 C's have the length impressed in the housing not far from the ends, you can get them ahead of time, well worth doing both the job can be a bugger. Hopefully you can see the markings easily.

Phil

MOP
03-13-2006, 06:04 AM
It can be a real POA, suprised it let go on your boat being it is so new. Just looking at the picture it looks like the SM kit use the 33C cable also, it is hard to get a better cable. The rest of the kit should be real good quality like all their stuff.
I would let the dealer them fix it this time, plus I think it is a fluke once fixed it will stay fixed for a long time!

Phil

John W
03-13-2006, 07:25 PM
Blueliner,
There are better cables than the morse cables. They are the green cable craft cables. I put them on my Hatteras about 6 years ago and they are still going strong. You can tie the things in a knot and they still work just as easy as if they were laid out straight. They are about the same price as the morse cables, same ends and they are availible at Rose marine, in Gloucester, MA. The have a website , talk to Donny.
JW

Ed Donnelly
03-13-2006, 08:20 PM
I have the Stainless Marine units on the Criterion
Ordered direct from Brownie, plus it gave me an excuse just to talk to him..Ed

RickSE
03-14-2006, 12:06 PM
Steve, That's a bummer. Have you talked to my dad yet?

The cables are not really all that hard to replace. The toughest part on your boat will be getting access to the back of the indicator panel. I'd be surprised if someone could reach it from the front, from under the deck. The best shot may be through the storage pocket on the side, but I can't remember if your pockets are open on the top so someone could reach through to the panel.

The attachment nuts for the panel itself are from behind. The end of the cable attaches to the indicator needle with a single nut but then the base of the cable is held in the indicator housing with a pinch block and a screw(s). I really believe the best way to R&R the cable at the indicator panel is to pull the entire panel out since access will be tight through the space between the cockpit and hull.

How has service been up there? Have you found someone you trust to work on the boat? This will probably require a fair amount of labor.

I was going to suggest disconnecting the end of the cable at the K-Plane if you use the boat but I'm a little concerned that the loose cable would bounce around too much and chip or damage something else. I don't know, I'd have to look at mine. Since the cable is kinked, basically shortened, you are pulling the indicator down further then normal. This is why the tab is showing all the way down when the tab is up.

I think I put 16'(starboard) & 20'(port) cables in mine when I did the indicators. My panel is up on the dash next to the switch panel.