Wes, for hanging the subW ???? why not...

[Lenny]

Have long internally threaded hex stock (that matches the thread rate of the forward lifting ring support rod) machined just SLIGHTLY more than in half, lengthwise, so that they (2 of these pieces) can be married together and not quite touch and then bolted together so that they grip the rod and then weld on some brackets or whatever and create a mount for the sub-woofer to hang from the rod? EVERYONE has this rod set-up.

Would that work?

[BUIZILLA]

Huh ????????????

ya wanna try that request again in ENGLISH

thanx :hyper:

[txtaz]

Lenny, you started early today. :smash:
The problem is that the screws pull out of the plastic even when expoxied in when mounted upside down. I could put some monster screws in and it would hold, but I'm using this as an excuse to get Bazookas and an extra amp and battery.
It's yours if you want it. Just need some maple syrup for it.
Da Taz <<-- A begger for maple syrup, The good stuff

[boxy]

Lenny, I started early today, I can see it. All you need to do is bend a bracket out of flat stock, that would wrap all the way around the sub, so that the weight is evenly distibuted, then it should work perfectly.......

Things get a lot clearer with a couple Grand Marnier in the afernoon...... :D

[Lenny]

Lenny, you started early today. :smash:
The problem is that the screws pull out of the plastic even when expoxied in when mounted upside down. I could put some monster screws in and it would hold, but I'm using this as an excuse to get Bazookas and an extra amp and battery.
It's yours if you want it. Just need some maple syrup for it.
Da Taz <<-- A begger for maple syrup, The good stuff

Wes, use T-nuts next time. I have used 'em for years with adjustable bases, kicks and just about everything else if their use was suitable. I have NEVER has a problem with any of 'em. Drill a 3/8" hole in the back of your sub mounting locations, insert these "T" nuts, either hammer them in (with the speaker OUT) they go in the speaker hole cavity, or use a large "C" clamp if it will fit. (doubtful) and then put the speaker back together and get yourself some 5/16" thread fasteners of whatever style you like, throw on a bit of lock-tite and tighten her up. They will NEVER come apart, EVER unless you want them to.

And as far as screws, forget about 'em in wood unless you use low-root.

Standard wood screws are a waste of time in wood, used in any application. All wood screws should be "low-root" in pitch and rate. There is NOTHING better for wood. Standard wood screws with their thread rate and pitch are a joke. This is all (Low Root) anyone in the industry will even use. NOT standard wood screws. The Low Root screws come in round washer head as well.

If you are REALLY concerned about screw holding power, (even with LOW ROOT screws) pre drill, very small diameter, and "squirt into the hole" :rolleyes: either PUR (poly urethane reactive) glue, Kleibert is one name, or simple white glue (PVA, poly vinyl acetate) and THEN run your screws in. They do NOT come out, period. When you undo one of these screws they take about 2" of wood from arounf the area as well out.

I want your sub-by, you want some syrup? :D

[BUIZILLA]

wow, a Tim Taylor_step_by_step leasson is sub hanging...

cool beans :cool:

[txtaz]

Drill a 3/8" hole in the back of your sub mounting locations, insert these "T" nuts,

I want your sub-by, you want some syrup? :D
Hey Lenny, Thanks for the education but the back of the sub mounting location is the front deck. The new subs will go in the engine compartment mounted to the side through the diamond deck plate. I don't think I'll have any trouble making them stay.
Next time I'm out at the boat, I'll pick up the sub and mail it to you and send some maple syrup please. I'm a real maple syrup junky.
Da Taz <<-- Almost out of the real stuff.

[Lenny]

Wes, you got a deal. :yes:

Mail me you home address to highlnd@telus.net

Thanx :) (no slag, no jokes, just utter respect today :D )

Tomorrow is a new day tho ...