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View Full Version : Hydraulic steering....Making progress



Last Real Texan
12-13-2005, 04:08 PM
Well after a considering what to do and who to go with I have started on the system. I picked up a smoking deal on a complete system from a buddy who had one with little time on it about 2 trips, who did not like having it go lock to lock in 2 turns. He upgraded to an ITS transom system and I benifitted. It is what I call the MAD MAX steering system, hynautic made the system and it looks old school to say the least. It consisted of:
2 Hydraulic cylinders : model # K5-B, nickel plated brass

Transom brackets

IMco ALuminum end cap for dual system

All the lines to use on a 26' boat

Resevoir

Hynautic helm Model # 41

preassure relief valve

The system was designed to be self contained using this large helm and a preassurized resevoir, I have however changed it over to a Charr lynn helm 145cc's and will use my pump to drive the system eliminating the resevoir. So i ordered some stuff from IMCO:

145 cc helm, 3 turns lock to lock with 9 inch stroke rods

Dash kit for 4 3/4 inch length

Filter

through hull fitting with a T for both lines from the rams.


MAn this sh*t adds up.
Just a note the prices have gon up from the web page on the dash kits, about 100 $ more than advertised.
So last nigh I removed all the internal steering stuff from the dash and off the transom plate( no turning back now) and found it is really not too bad of job. I am having a time getting the cable off the back power steering ram but other than that all has gone well, any hints on this? I am planning on just leaving the cable in the boat, but want to remove the power steering cylinder back there.
Now on to a big ? I have been measuring and looking at the mounting location on the steering ram brackets at the transom and am seeing that the upper bolts on the brackets will be no problem to through bolt, however the bottom bolts may be a problem due to the flooring in my engine compartment, it looks like either cut another access hole in the floor or just get some stainless lag bolts for the bottom and use some 5200 on them, any ideas?
I will have my dash stuff Friday and should finish the job next week sometime, if all goes smooth. I am going to have a time pulling the lines to the dash I have a feeling, again any suggestions?
Hopefully steering into the future safely.
Bryan

MOP
12-13-2005, 05:56 PM
I would cut access holes, Donzi does not back the entire transom with wood. There are probably cleats glassed in to support the floor bit you may not hit them or get a decent bit in the wood. I would cut the holes finish the edges and leave them open so the cavity breaths, there is very little air flow that can lead to moisture problems. Donzi like most others does not seal the limber/stringer drain holes the more air flow down there the better.

Phil