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View Full Version : Do you guy's think ill blow my volvo?



mrfixxall
12-09-2005, 03:52 PM
how much power will a volvo take..

mphatc
12-09-2005, 05:57 PM
A LOT!

I've seen 375-400 HP go through a Volvo for several years w/o any problems

the hardest part on the drive is catching air and re-entry, although you don't feel it in a boat it's the same kind of shock to the driveline as doing a burn out in a car by side stepping the clutch . . except in a boat you might be doing that 10 times a minute on a rough water hard run . . . . .:biggrin: :shocking:

Mario

Moody Blu'
12-09-2005, 06:09 PM
supposedly 600HP, better then the standard bravo.

I know a guy who has a 408 stroker windsor with a 250 drive and has no problems, his motor is supposedly around 550hp

I hopefully will be going with a 408 or a 501 windsor..

I'm not sure of it, but I would bet I have more "air time" then most on the 250 and ive never had any problems.

I'm not to sure that catching air is the hardest I have been on my drive. I think when i punch the throttle from off plane to plane is harder then catching air.

ever see a donzi jump out of the water and get on plane in less then 4 seconds from idle speed? I dont do it anymore but ive seen the look on other boaters faces so i know its unusual. thats with no trim tabs and the pin up all the way.

tmdog
12-09-2005, 06:18 PM
how much power will a volvo take..

The pic of that engine looks like it's moving already. On my 68 18 D w/ a Volvo (Do'nt know the model) it held up to a very healty sbc. The only repair needed was the vertical shaft (twice) snapped when putting in gear. Engine idled at 1250 rpm. All of the times that boat seen air, never a breakdown. I say slide that motor in and enjoy. I wish I had a volvo drive.;) :wink:

mrfixxall
12-09-2005, 06:36 PM
tmdog,i think im going to wait till spring and see what the boat does with that 16x26 i got from you..if i dont get the speed im shooting for then im gonna make the old 350 a 392 or put my engine in the pic in it...but i have to detune it first..im have to take the 14 to 1 pistons out and install a set of ross nos flat tops i have for it.then switch the cam with a one i had ground and get rid of the belt drive because my water pump in the boat is driven by the cam..

Ted Guldemond
12-09-2005, 06:36 PM
From the looks of that open phlenum intake it looks like your shooting for max. performance in the higher rpm band? (6-6500?). RPM is more likely to kill a volvo before torque will. What are your engine specifics? From the picture I'm guessing vortec heads, but they and the block have an aluminum color?

mrfixxall
12-09-2005, 07:00 PM
Ted,its a dart little m alunimum block,434cid,chevy botie heads,dart intake heads and intake flowed by wilson ).the engine produces over 700 hp rite now but im gonna d tune it????i havnt decided yet,im afraid im gonna kill the drive with all that power..i may just up the hp on the motor thats in the boat now....what ever fits my budget this winter....

mrfixxall
12-09-2005, 08:18 PM
supposedly 600HP, better then the standard bravo.
I know a guy who has a 408 stroker windsor with a 250 drive and has no problems, his motor is supposedly around 550hp
I hopefully will be going with a 408 or a 501 windsor..
I'm not sure of it, but I would bet I have more "air time" then most on the 250 and ive never had any problems.
I'm not to sure that catching air is the hardest I have been on my drive. I think when i punch the throttle from off plane to plane is harder then catching air.
ever see a donzi jump out of the water and get on plane in less then 4 seconds from idle speed? I dont do it anymore but ive seen the look on other boaters faces so i know its unusual. thats with no trim tabs and the pin up all the way.
try this,,at idle can the throttle and turn the wheel to the rt,,i think it take's two seconds with mine this way.....and yes people stare.....lol......

MOP
12-10-2005, 08:51 AM
They do hold up to some reasonably decent HP, the sacrificial shaft coupler shearing is it is doing what it was designed to do save the gears. Shearing the coupling can be just about eliminated by using the Volvo slide link on the carb, the link allows the drive to fully engage before throttle is applied. It should never thump into gear, setup correctly they shift like butter. Many guys do a carb change and eliminate the slider, it is well worth the time to adapt it to the new carb. Idling a 1250 like tmdog described is hard on any drive and will eat the coupler, I would try to get down to 850 that should get you by. Rarely will a Volvo blow a gear set, with all the guys up we very rarely hear of anyone doing lunching a Volvo. The biggest issue with the older style drives is hydrodynamics they will only go so fast before the blow out, some guys I know have done pretty decent fooling around with props but to realize the full potential of a high HP engine speed you need to go to the later style.

Phil

mattyboy
12-11-2005, 08:19 AM
go for it, I broke my 2 seasons ago, drives or component parts lowers uppers are pretty easy to find, not sure what model aquamatic you're running but if it breaks that's an excuse to upgrade maybe nose cone trim or the elusive e drive then there's always the dark side

Mr X
12-11-2005, 08:32 AM
"Do you guy's think ill blow my volvo?"

Just don't swallow......:biggrin:

Sorry......I been fighting it for days now!!

MOP
12-11-2005, 09:32 AM
:puke: :spit: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

boldts
12-11-2005, 01:47 PM
I had a Volvo 250 on my 18' Classic. In the ten years I owned the boat, I broke the drive once. (Lost the upper gears) That was the 2nd year of ownership. Now, I only had a 302 Ford in front of it, so no where near the hp your looking to put in front of your drive. Mine was rebuilt by a certified Volvo mechanic. The dealer sold Chris Crafts which came with the Volvo drive.

Ted G. says that torque is not the problem? I was always told that you could put as many RPMs through the drive as I wished. Just be off the throttle if the boat left the water to avoid the torque that would be put on the drive as of re-entry. It's like throttling an offshore race boat. You learn the feel as the drive and prop come back into contact with the water. Then add the throttle back to maintain your speed.

Maybe you Ted have gotten your advise from someone professional also, but my drive broke when pulling a 200 + pound football player up out of the water on a water tube. I'd venture to say that was a torque issue and not an RPM issue?

Please, don't be upset. I'm learning just like everyone else here. I just got different information, but would love to determine the correct answer.

Ted Guldemond
12-16-2005, 03:23 PM
Tryed to find a reference on the age old question of what a volvo I/O can handle. Volvo-Penta of North America will not comment on specific numbers on older drives. They refered me to a dealer who handles the older units, All Island Marine in New York. They refered me to fellow by the name of Wilbur Wall at a place called French Creek Drive 315-686-3621. He states the greatest threat to a 280 is a rock! That aside, he tells me these units are good to approx. 400 hp and 5200 rpm. So I guess you can take your pick as to what which parameter will likely cause failure depending on your engine build ie: what rpm you make your power. By the way he has a rebuilt E-Drive for sale for $7500, also a couple of ultras for $700, if anyone is interested.

Moody Blu'
12-16-2005, 04:43 PM
I got my 600hp figure from big griz.

mrfixxall
12-16-2005, 07:58 PM
[QUOTE=Ted Guldemond]Tryed to find a reference on the age old question of what a volvo I/O can handle. Volvo-Penta of North America will not comment on specific numbers on older drives. They refered me to a dealer who handles the older units, All Island Marine in New York. They refered me to fellow by the name of Wilbur Wall at a place called French Creek Drive 315-686-3621. He states the greatest threat to a 280 is a rock! That aside, he tells me these units are good to approx. 400 hp and 5200 rpm. So I guess you can take your pick as to what which parameter will likely cause failure depending on your engine build ie: what rpm you make your power. By the way he has a rebuilt E-Drive for sale for $7500, also a couple of ultras for $700, if anyone is interested.[/QUO

Ted,thanx for checkiing,,but i already knew that....he got that e drive and props from england and HE'Sstill asking 700.00 for those props yikes!!!2 yrs ago when i caled him he wanted 9000,00 for the drive.. my friend has those e drives in his magnum 27 and he says thay run really hot....