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txtaz
11-22-2005, 01:07 PM
I'm helping a friend of mine fix his '95 Evinrude 130. It has been neglected and was "supposedly" fixed. Actually nothing was done to it for a grand total of $800.
So far I have rebuilt the carbs, starting system, fuel system and engine electrical. It still will not fire. The power pack has been replaced also. There is spark to all cyclinders so coil packs are good. We took it to a local guy and he said the carbs were gumbed up. I called BS and we took the boat. The carbs were rebuilt last month and they are clean.
Anyone have an idea of where to look next? I'm stumped here and I have built my own outboard motor before.
Thanks,
Da Taz<<<----Used to run clamp ons (215Hp 4 cylinder)

Schnook
11-22-2005, 01:30 PM
You might recheck the carbs (floats stuck?) I know you rebuilt them, but one time I made a mistake...

Cuda
11-22-2005, 01:42 PM
Question number one: Do you have compression?

There are only three things an internal combution engine needs to run; fuel, compression, and ignition. Of course they all have to happen at the proper time, but it sounds like you have eliminated fuel, and ignition. To double check if it's a fuel problem, spray some starting fluid in the air cleaner. If it fires, you have a fuel problem. Speaking of fuel, how old is it?

Johntrip
11-22-2005, 02:34 PM
If it has a kill switch make sure its not malfunctioning. I had this problem with my outboard. Fuel, ign., and compression were fine I was getting frustrated and banged the center console next to the kill switch while it was turning over and after 10 hours of f***king with the motor it was a faulting kill switch.!!! 15 bucks later I was cruising......

Cuda
11-22-2005, 02:47 PM
The ignitions shouldn't have worked with the bad kill switch.:confused:

mattyboy
11-22-2005, 03:11 PM
the last john rude of that era I fooled around with the kill switches didn't break the ignition they were designed as they were pulled off to turn the key off but would let the motor be restarted with out it

when the carbs were rebuilt did anyone use clear tape to cover the intake to keep it clean??? don't ask me how i know that ;)

fuel pump, fuel lines primed??
if you have confirmed spark that would also eliminate the nuetral safety switch

BUIZILLA
11-22-2005, 03:18 PM
fuel pump

MOP
11-22-2005, 04:48 PM
If you have good spark and you know the fuel system is OK then there is a good chance the crank shaft key way has sheared, Wes you will need a piston stop to check it out and also to set the pointer for TDC. There is a tech bulliten on lapping the flywheel to the crank then reassembling with a NEW nut and Loc-Tite. I have a piston stop if you can't bum one locally.

Phil

txtaz
11-22-2005, 05:05 PM
Thanks guys, We are going to try in the morning with starter fluid. I guess I'm getting old, I should have thought of that. Thanks Joe.
Matty, No I did not cover the intake for the carbs, but I did rebuild them in a clean environment on a towel. I prefer to tear things down to the base components and then build them up cleaning everything as I go. Did you drop something in the intake???
I have a feeling it is the fuel pump and wouldn't you know it, it's a fuel oil pump that is not rebuildable. I was hoping to save my buddy some money.
Da Taz<<<---Master mechanic....Yeah right

txtaz
11-22-2005, 05:07 PM
If you have good spark and you know the fuel system is OK then there is a good chance the crank shaft key way has sheared, Wes you will need a piston stop to check it out and also to set the pointer for TDC. There is a tech bulliten on lapping the flywheel to the crank then reassembling with a NEW nut and Loc-Tite. I have a piston stop if you can't bum one locally.
Phil
Thanks Phil, I'll pull the flywheel in the morning and check. I didn't think of that, but your right. That would make it not start.
Da Taz

joseph m. hahnl
11-22-2005, 05:15 PM
Check the stator/ fuel- linkage syncronization:Make sure the stator is at the correct timing "ignition timing" to throttle location

joe

Forrest
11-23-2005, 11:18 AM
IF you have fuel, spark, AND the crank key is not sheared, AND you have compression, check to make sure you don't have a broken reed valve, which is rare, but I've seen it happen.

txtaz
11-23-2005, 12:52 PM
We have determined we have been had by a new local marine shop. We hoped it would work out, but it is not.
We started to work on it this morning and the starter would not turn over. Brand new battery, new cables and I tore the starter apart last month and cleaned and inspected. The bendix was frozen on the spline gear and I have put tons of bearing grease on it when I rebuilt it. Now it is dry....hymmm.
We have decided to put it away for the season and start on it again in the spring.
If anyone knows where I can get a fuel pump rebuild kit, that would help over the winter.
Thanks for the help guys.
Da Taz<<<---Not trusting mechanics today

MOP
11-23-2005, 03:34 PM
Wes just called my local Rude guy, there is no kit available they only sell the complete unit. It runs about $240, maybe someone close by can get you a bit off that. The postage from here would shave my discount! I know baymen that run electric fuel pumps with regulators mounted close to the fuel tanks and running mixed gas. Would be a cheaper out for your friend.

Phil

txtaz
11-23-2005, 04:02 PM
Thanks Phil, I have heard they stopped making the rebuild kits for them. I'm going to tear it down anyways to see if there is a leak in the diaphram. It's one of those oil and fuel combined pumps. I like your idea and will go with it if we need to.
Here's something else weird...The fuel mysteriously turned into a dark grey/black and it was fresh last month when we filled it up and put sta bil in it.
I can see another carb rebuild in my future and a tank draining. How do you dispose of 40 gallons of bad gas?
Thanks
Da Taz