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DonCig
10-23-2005, 09:23 AM
Don't tell Wes (TXTAZ), but we started ordering parts for my engine swap in my Classic 18'.
When I was in Vegas last week I stopped by to see these guys and feel very confident in their ability to manufacture a good fresh water marine motor.

Here is the basic shortblock assembly and we will build the heads and do the final assembly here in Denver at "Heads by Paul" which is owned by a friend of mine.
http://dynoflow.substorm.com/short_blocks/marine/chevy/marinepro_434.asp
For under $4,000, this is a very good price on a short block assembly using these components!

We have decided to go with Forged Pistons in a 9.6-1 comp. ratio since we are using alum. heads.

We will be using AFR 210 cc (76 cc C.C.) straight plug heads with Manley inconell exhaust vales and the severe duty intake valves. We are using titanium retainers and locks to lighten the valve train weights.

The intake manifold is going to be the Holley Stealth EFI system.
http://www.holley.com/products.asp?product=91404201

My question to you gear heads is whether the following Hydraulic Roller Cam meets with my objective of having a decent idle quality. I am also looking for advice on rocker arm ratios with this setup.

Crane HR-284
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=5&Vehicle_Type=Marine&Cylinders=8&Engine_Make=CHEVROLET&Year=2000&Engine_Size=305-350%20C.I.&partNumber=109831&partType=camshaft

The next question that I want to ask is what type of room do I have under the engine as it relates to oil pans. Do I have to use a stock Merc. pan or is there room for a larger marine baffed pan?

The final question I had was should I O-Ring the block with stainless steel wire? It only adds $130.00 to the short block price.

Thanks,

Don

Lenny
10-23-2005, 11:49 AM
Woo Hoo :D This looks like fun Don. :yes: I assume the Blackhawk will be pushing it?

Can't wait to see it in Powell and Possum. :)

DonCig
10-23-2005, 12:00 PM
Lenny, Yes the BH will be throwing a rooster with this setup. You dont need rocker in a hull when you have 434 cubic inches to plow your bow thru the waves!!

Lenny, take a look at the EFI setup. I may even be able to keep my stock hatch!

http://www.holley.com/products.asp?product=91405201

Chili 18
10-23-2005, 01:57 PM
Looks like fun. Cool FI...

BUIZILLA
10-23-2005, 04:55 PM
Don, standard rule of thumb here.... if that's the cam you REALLY like, buy the one just under that... I think it's a bit big (284/292) for your setup. A 276/284 on a 112 split, installed at 108* IC would be the hot ticket, for the heads you are going to use. I would then use 1.6 rockers on the intake, and 1.5 on the exhaust for more torque... get the COMP Pro Magnum stainless roller rockers.

Jim

RedDog
10-23-2005, 06:10 PM
... standard rule of thumb here.... if that's the cam you REALLY like, buy the one just under that...

that statement sounds so illogical that it must be the most logical philosophy that could ever be applied - is this something like engine design through Zen? :idea:

DonCig
10-23-2005, 06:48 PM
Jim, here was the second cam choice, it looks close to what you described. What ratio rocker arms would you thow on this?


http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=08-418-8

txtaz
10-23-2005, 08:05 PM
Don't tell Wes (TXTAZ), but we started ordering parts for my engine swap in my Classic 18'.

Thanks,

Don
BUSTED,
I have a different method of achieving the same goal with more reliability. The skunkswork team in North Carolina is about to hook me up. You will have to wait to see what I'm doing.... :hyper: :cool: :cool:
TxTaz

BUIZILLA
10-23-2005, 08:21 PM
Red Dog, I say that because the vast majority of the public tends to buy too big of a cam profile, for the REAL intended rpm range of their application.

Don, I really like that 276HR for a small block, installed at 108* IC, stagger the rocker ratio's, and have fun. Cruise at 3200-3500, peak at 5400-5600. Watch your valve spring installed height, and seat pressures closely. Mild port work, clean up the bowls and match port the gaskets, that will really wake that cam up, especially in the .006 to .200 lobe lift area.

Jim

Lenny
10-23-2005, 08:26 PM
BUSTED,
I have a different method of achieving the same goal with more reliability. The skunkswork team in North Carolina is about to hook me up. You will have to wait to see what I'm doing.... :hyper: :cool: :cool:
TxTaz

...sounds like you got Gregg involved :D

Mr X
10-24-2005, 07:07 AM
BUSTED,
I have a different method of achieving the same goal with more reliability. The skunkswork team in North Carolina is about to hook me up. You will have to wait to see what I'm doing.... :hyper: :cool: :cool:
TxTaz

Wes, I will be happy to let you borrow one of my Blackhawk drives!!

Gotta take care of my buddy in my special ex-18!!

(No pun intended!!)

Ted Guldemond
10-24-2005, 07:51 AM
Don, I run that cam (119831) in my St. Tropez 383ci.,ported deshrouded vortec heads. It idles with a slight lope at 750-800rpm. 14" Hg. vacume at idle in neutral, 7.5 inchs in gear at idle. At 434 ci. the 119831 is the cam one notch below what you think you want.

DonCig
10-24-2005, 08:22 PM
I have decided to go with the Comp Cams XM276HR.

Now to the Oil Pan, what do I have room for under the bottom?

Thanks,

Don

mrfixxall
10-24-2005, 11:08 PM
Hi don,i run a moroso part #20200 pass side dip stick, this pan works out vary well on my boat . it has a front trap door in it that slamms shut and keeps the oil in the pan by the oil pump pick up when you come off of plain and it holds 9qts of oil with a filter...cheep too under $150.00.......p.s. mor24350 pick up tube

DonCig
10-25-2005, 11:56 PM
Ted, it looks like you were on the money with Crane Cam # 119831.
The Comp Cams looks like it was going to produce 468 HP at 5,200 rpm, and I want to move the rpm up to around 5,500, so the Crane 284 should do the trick.
Boy I have had a bunch of people bad mouth Crane Cams, I have been told to carefully check the accuracy of their product before installing it.

Thanks,

Don

BUIZILLA
10-26-2005, 02:58 PM
If you get a Crane roller make damn sure it's the gold core, not the black one...

JH

mrfixxall
10-29-2005, 12:54 AM
like buiz said the gold cam ,,,and a bronze dist gear.......

Ted Guldemond
10-29-2005, 08:05 AM
Why a bronze gear (which needs to be changed every 2000 miles in a car according to Crane) vs. a cast iron gear as on the 119831 that allows you to run a stock distributor gear?

DonCig
10-30-2005, 04:36 PM
Buizilla, thanks for your suggestions on the camshaft rocker ratios. It appears that the 1.6 ratio is the way to go on both the intake and the exhaust. Here are the Desk Top Dyno Sheets. When you said that this thing would make some torque, you were not kidding. Take a look at the sheets. I have plugged in conservative numbers and this thing is making 440 H.P. and a 500 foot pounds of torque starting at 2,000 rpm. It is making over 450 foot pounds of torque over a 3,000 rpm range.
We have ordered the bottom end of the engine and we are playing around with the top end components. Do you have any suggetions on the intake manifold. I am leaning towards the Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap.
I have decided to go the carburator route with this engine. We will start with a Barry Grant 750. Any comments on the mechanical versus vacumn secondary actuation?

Thanks,

GG Donzi
10-30-2005, 05:14 PM
Don this is Gus, just my 2 cents. Several cam companys offer billet cams with hardened distributor ends. Also the heads you are using sound big for the application (i'd call AFR, their great to deal with). Your not spinning the motor high enough to take advantage of all that intake volume, smaller intake volume = more torque down low and a flatter power curve. I emailed you earlier about the fuel injection, I couldn't find one the was Coast Guard approved. The Performer RPM Air Gap is a great manifold, though if your committed on using 210's that may not be a good match. Just my opinion, by the way I looking for a Black Hawk if you come across any more. Have a good one!

mrfixxall
10-30-2005, 06:55 PM
Buizilla, thanks for your suggestions on the camshaft rocker ratios. It appears that the 1.6 ratio is the way to go on both the intake and the exhaust. Here are the Desk Top Dyno Sheets. When you said that this thing would make some torque, you were not kidding. Take a look at the sheets. I have plugged in conservative numbers and this thing is making 440 H.P. and a 500 foot pounds of torque starting at 2,000 rpm. It is making over 450 foot pounds of torque over a 3,000 rpm range.
We have ordered the bottom end of the engine and we are playing around with the top end components. Do you have any suggetions on the intake manifold. I am leaning towards the Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap.
I have decided to go the carburator route with this engine. We will start with a Barry Grant 750. Any comments on the mechanical versus vacumn secondary actuation?

Thanks,

save yourself some cash,go to www.professional-products.com (http://www.professional-products.com) thay make a intake called the crosswind same as the airgap its cheeper and it has a longer intake runner = more useable power....cams??? look into the 4/7 swap cams thay reduce crankshaft torsional viberation for smoother dampening and more power...also ill give you a person to call at b&g carb he is a friend of mine 706-864-8544 ext 121 or 122 his name is mike and he knows alot about carbs and he can also give you a deal on it (racers net pricing).he helped up brake into the 7.30 on our 3400 lb vette...and about the exhaust??? emi pull more power on the dyno sheets then stainless marine just a thought......good luck

DonCig
11-12-2005, 08:09 AM
Thanks everybody for help in selecting the internal engine components, we have ordered the block, rods, crank, pistons, cam, lifters, heads, oil pump, oil pan, headers, intake manifold, carb and cam drive.

Now I need to ask for some help on the exterior components:

Cooling system - I had a closed system on my old engine, but I have decided to go with a standard fresh water on this new engine. This boat will never see salt water or brackish water. I would like to keep the number and complexity of the hoses to a minimum. Should I go with a 160 degree stainless marine thermostst and a crossover system and dump the SBC block mounted water circulation pump. I would like to dump the water circulation pump so that I can play with the cam timing since I have an adjustable setup on the cam drive?

Pulley System - do I go with v-belts or try and set up a serpantine system?

Ignition - I plan on using an HEI system so that it will hook up to the existing wiring harness?

It looks like the engine will end up at approx. 460h.p at 5,500 rpm, should be good for around 79-85 mph.

MOP
11-12-2005, 08:35 AM
Don my suggestion would be to run a 180 Tstat the extra 20 degrees will give you better performance, a crank mounted pump and cross over pipe to let you dump the belt and circ pump adding a little more. In reading various articles those items simplify things and are worth a few ponies.

Phil

MOP
11-12-2005, 08:58 AM
Read your post a little better! I know there is a lot of opinions on ignition but I would consider running Tbolt IV a simple 1 wire hook up, just upgrade the coil. I have done that on my setup with very good results. You will only be running a belt on alt, if you can find a nice short Serp belt go for it if not the more readily avaulable V's should be fine.

Phil

Cig Man
11-13-2005, 06:49 PM
No need to oring the block,go with a MLS Style (Multiple Layer) gasket.

Ted Guldemond
11-14-2005, 08:16 AM
If you are running a high compression ratio you may want to run a little cooler than 180 to avoid detonation.

DonCig
11-14-2005, 07:29 PM
I am running 9.496 to 1 comp. ratio.
Alum. heads. AFR 210 CNC's
Mahle Coated Pistons -20cc
Comp Cams 230/236 roller hydraulic cam
4.125" Bore
4" Stroke Callies Racemaster Crank
6" Oliver Rods Forged Standard Weight


Thanks,


Don

txtaz
11-15-2005, 08:17 AM
It looks like the engine will end up at approx. 460h.p at 5,500 rpm, should be good for around 79-85 mph.
That's it???? Dude, the next grudge match will be a piece of cake...:rlol:
Da Taz

DonCig
11-15-2005, 09:15 AM
Here are some rough calculations of the amount of horsepower that it takes to move a Classic 18 thru the water. Remember there are a lot of variables, but these numbers appear to match some known combinations:

60mph - 228 HP
70mph - 315 HP
75mph - 360 HP
80mph - 410 HP
90mph - 520 HP
100mph - 640 HP
110mph - 765 HP
120mph - 910 HP
130mph - 1,070 HP
140mph - 1,250 HP
150mph - 1,425 HP

Wes, are you ready to take it up a notch?

MOP
11-15-2005, 09:48 AM
Gee Wes the spread sheet you sent me looks stronger than Don's just what to you have up your sleave?:checkered :wrench: :biggrin.:

txtaz
11-15-2005, 09:56 AM
Phil, You weren't supposed to let the cat out of the bag just yet. Let Don commit to his project and then let it out. I bet he's on the phone right now with his motor guy asking how he can get more.
Hymmm, Maybe we should make this next grudge match a 1/4 mile run...
Da Taz<<<----Snicker

MOP
11-15-2005, 10:11 AM
I am running 9.496 to 1 comp. ratio.
Alum. heads. AFR 210 CNC's
Mahle Coated Pistons -20cc
Comp Cams 230/236 roller hydraulic cam
4.125" Bore
4" Stroke Callies Racemaster Crank
6" Oliver Rods Forged Standard Weight
Thanks,
Don

Don in reading the posts here and on the net plus also having done a lot of asking around when I built the 383, I think you can run 180 with the aluminum heads. They have great heat disapation, 90+ octane and max advance of 32 should work. I am running 9.2 comp on 89 gas with 32 advance I have closed cooling with a 180 and may go to 190 as I am hearing some kits come that way. I have heard many say heat is power.

I know there are some far more knowledgebale out there hope they chime in!

Phil

turbo2256
11-15-2005, 10:17 AM
Got any air flow figures for the heads?

DonCig
11-15-2005, 12:33 PM
Here are the flow numbers on the AFR 210cc Heads.

Lift In Ex

.200 138 112
.300 201 150
.400 247 190
.500 276 207
.550 282 213
.600 288 220

turbo2256
11-15-2005, 01:32 PM
434 cu in correct

DonCig
11-15-2005, 01:38 PM
427ci

4.125 bore, 4" stroke

turbo2256
11-15-2005, 01:50 PM
My shop runs all aluminum 427 SBC with ported track I heads.

turbo2256
11-15-2005, 01:55 PM
Figure a cam uch as Crane 109831

Would like a bit less duration @ .050 and a bit less advertized also for marine use. Someone run a program on this one yet. Hope your program allows air flow entries at each lift point.

DonCig
11-15-2005, 02:00 PM
I have run the program and it does allow entries for all lift points.

I am quite comfortable with the cam profile.
It received the Buizilla seal of approval!

turbo2256
11-15-2005, 02:01 PM
With matching parts intake, good headers peak power 5500 RPM 550 HP

FI or Carb?

DonCig
11-15-2005, 02:06 PM
Demon Marine 750 mech. secondaries, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold, Gaffrig 10" Flame arrestor.

I was planning on around 470 h.p. at 5,500 rpm, it it makes more than that, so be it.

turbo2256
11-15-2005, 02:19 PM
Done a lot of work on SBC intakes and heads at our shop. With that set up I would go with a Victor. A Edelbrock RPM will be about 70 CFM (might as well keep the stock heads) short of your build. A Victor might even need ported. I do have a ported Victor Jr. a super Victor might work also. Would like to see a cam around 208/214 @.050 268/278 adv .510/.520 lift.

DonCig
11-15-2005, 02:25 PM
I agree with your analysis on the intake manifold. If the manifold can not flow as much as the heads, then it will be a bottleneck. When we put the engine on the dyno we will test both the RPM and a Victor.
I will probably need the RPM for hatch clearance. Testing will determine the right solution.

Don

BUIZILLA
11-15-2005, 04:13 PM
Don, you might want to pick up that ported Jr. intake from Turbo2256.....

JH

DonCig
11-15-2005, 05:01 PM
I sent Turbo2256 a PM.

Thanks

Sam
11-16-2005, 08:38 AM
Dumb question of the day.................what's so special about Turbo's intake.

turbo2256
11-16-2005, 10:48 AM
Dumb question of the day.................what's so special about Turbo's intake.

It has been ported for better air flow and fuel distribution. It has been flow bench tested on a set of heads.

DonCig
11-16-2005, 11:00 PM
Can I solicit some advice on Merc. engine couplers and flywheels?

Don

MOP
11-17-2005, 12:49 PM
Can I solicit some advice on Merc. engine couplers and flywheels?
Don

Don the back end of the BB & SB are the same, I am running the Merc BB coupler rated for the 500HP motors behind my Mouse stroker. It appears to have a longer spline and a long greaseable snout.

Phil

I will email you a pic.

DonCig
11-18-2005, 10:40 AM
What do I need on the new engine as it relates to the back end if we do not take anything off the old engine?

Flywheel, Steel or alum?
Flexplate?
Drive Plate?
Coupler?

This is the first time that I have done a marine engine so these components are new to me other than the flywheel.

Thanks

DonCig
11-18-2005, 02:44 PM
Rootsy, thanks.
it is a 2 pc oil seal engine.
Is the bolt pattern for the Mercury coupler the same pattern as a clutch for a car?

In other words did Mercury copy the automotive bolt pattern?

Don

DonCig
11-23-2005, 07:38 AM
We are going to pull the old engine out next week. I have removed the hatch.
Can we lift the engine straight out or do we need to twist it sideways? First time in pulling in engine out of a 1997 Classic 18.

Thanks

txtaz
11-23-2005, 08:47 AM
Ohhhh, just rip it out of there. It won't hurt anything.
BTW, Where is my ebay reply?
Da Taz<<<---With the broken sunglasses....At least I didn't lose 3 pair in a day:rlol:

MOP
11-23-2005, 09:39 AM
Don the bolt pattern is the same as the automotive clutch plate pattern, I used the large diameter iron flywheel I seen no advantage using aluminum for marine we do not need the quick RPM response. You do have to turn the motor 90 Degrees to get it out, also it make life easier if you pull the exhaust though OEM installs the engine as a complete unit.

Phil

DonCig
12-12-2005, 07:58 AM
Update, all the engine bottom end components have arrived in Denver so that we can start building the engine. I ordered the bare heads hard coat anodized from AFR with an expected ship date of mid February.
We pulled the old engine out last week and I am getting ready to bring the boat back home to start on some rigging changes that will be a lot easier with the engine out.
I put together the following spredsheet to help me in my choice of outdrive ratio on the Blackhawk. Feel free to copy or play with this sheet.

Don

Sam
12-12-2005, 08:33 AM
Don, I see you put the Imco on the Cig, how did that work out.

Sam

Lenny
12-12-2005, 10:13 AM
Don, how come you are figuring things at 14% slip. You will see much better numbers than, that don't you think?

DonCig
12-12-2005, 10:26 AM
I usually see around 11-13% slip at my best results. I used 14% to be conservative.
I also expect to see slip numbers possibly increase 1-2% as the speed increases due to the increased drag.

Don

DonCig
12-25-2005, 02:47 PM
It was a Merry Christmas this morning. My old engine was missing and the stockings were full.
I measured my 1997 Donzi Classic 18 with a stock Bravo 1 from the factory and my X dim. is 14.5" as measured by the "tape measure" method.
I had the 350 mag MPI Gen+ engine with the stock Merc. silent choice exhaust system and my transom tips are 14.25" apart and the exhaust hole centerline is located 1.5" above the Gimbal stud reference line.

Ted and Lenny, thanks for your help.

DonCig

thriller
12-25-2005, 04:22 PM
Did Santa bring you some bildge cleaner:)
Ho-Ho-Ho

thriller
12-25-2005, 04:24 PM
Ohhhh, just rip it out of there. It won't hurt anything.
BTW, Where is my ebay reply?
Da Taz<<<---With the broken sunglasses....At least I didn't lose 3 pair in a day:rlol:

Ya, But I found a nice blue pair:biggrin:

Richard Rees
12-25-2005, 06:53 PM
Watch out Don, Wes will want to race you TODAY. Hope you and yours had a Merry Christmas.

txtaz
12-25-2005, 11:10 PM
Watch out Don, Wes will want to race you TODAY. Hope you and yours had a Merry Christmas.
Nahh, I'll let him get the gerbils installed first.
Merry Christmas.
Da Taz <<-- Man I ate too much...

DonCig
12-25-2005, 11:19 PM
WES, I think you ate the whole thing! (Gerbil meat and all!)

DonCig
03-19-2006, 06:31 PM
First, thanks to Buzilla, Madpoodle, Roadtrip SE, Lenny, Harbormaster, Ted, MOP and everybody else that helped me with FREE ADVICE and guidance on getting this engine built properly.
The bottom end of the engine is finished and the heads are just about completed. We should be on the Dyno within three weeks to dial in the carburator and break in the engine. Then I will bring the engine home to bolt on all of the realy expensive unplanned items.
I am going to tell you right now that the cheapest part of a new boat engine is exactly the same as the cheapest part of a new Dog or pet.
The Purchase Price!!
All the accessories can add at least 25%to the purchase price of the engine.

I was going to put on a new V belt drive system until I added up the cost of a new seawater pump, alternator, power steering and all the brackets.
Let us not forget about the $300 to $450 dollar oil cooler needed by the new found horsepower. Wiring harness, try $200. Did I forget to mention the $225 dollar oil temp thermostat.
You get my drift.
I am very excited about getting this project completed and I can actually see myself on the water by the end of May. Just in time for the DACA run at Lake Powell.

Photos within two weeks and hopefully a dyno sheet within three.

So I have decided to start a registry betting event. For the person that has the closest guess to the Dyno determined sea level corrected Horse Power of my new engine I will send you a brand new " 100mph Boat Bling" Prop Lock. A $69.00 value. Available for Bravo, Alpha, TRS, Cobra and King Cobra outdrives.
This is a new Marine product company that I have started and I should have 4-5 nice new boat products by the middle of the summer.

Thanks,

DonCig

MOP
03-19-2006, 08:41 PM
486@5500

Ed Donnelly
03-19-2006, 10:18 PM
468@5200.......Ed

DonCig
03-25-2006, 08:54 PM
Do I hear 470hp ?

And on a long stretch, I may make it to AOTH with both the 18' and Cig. 20'.

I promised Polly that I would have her boat ready. (18)

Don

boldts
03-26-2006, 09:07 AM
The other night, I had just walked in the house from work when the phone rings. It's Don driving from I believe Missori back to Colorado. You say so what? I talk on my phone while driving..... Don was surfing the internet while driving! I'm like how do you do that? I was afraid to talk to him for fear I would cause an accident.

Don, it was great to talk to you and I finally got you added to the club members list. I need to add the Cig and pictures of both boats if you could send me the info on your father's Cigarette I'd appreciate it.

What a treat it would be to see both your boats at AOTH this year, but I'm not pushing. I can't believe owners come from as far away as they do and for you to bring 2 boats is just unbelievable. I like your idea of doing different lakes on a 5 year cycle so people can pick a lake they want to see a couple years in advance.

Just wanted to point out what a fantastic person and friend you are. Looking forward to seeing you again this year! Take care.

BTW - 470HP - I'm guessing that aluminum beast is going to be closer to 500HP. My guess is 498 and a half. You thought I held on tight while riding in your Classic last year? I get to be the GPS carrier for our BIG DOG run-offs this year at AOTH. Geo, can I borrow your parachute?

Rootsy
03-26-2006, 09:35 AM
this is gonna depend... what are you running or exhaust on the dyno???

DonCig
03-26-2006, 09:57 AM
Scott, thank you for the kind note. I enjoyed our conversation and it will be interesting to see if the "Lake Rotation" idea is a hit.
I have made a call to see if we can get the Formula people to recognize the significant contribution that you have provided for all of the "Don Aronow" companies. It would be great to get all of the boats on the tee shirts.

Jamie, we are going to use the boat headers on the dyno so that we can hit the carb jetting perfect the first time. Here is a link to what we are using. The only difference that mine will have from a stock Lighning pipe is that we have added 5" more in the collector before the water drops into the open pipe. Not "Dry Pipes" just moving the water a little further back in the pipe to minimize the reversion issue. Since I had silent choice on the boat, we removed it which is where we picked up the room for the additional 5".
They should still be reasonably quiet or stock sounding.

http://www.cpperformance.com/products/Exhaust/lightning-headers.htm

DonCig
04-17-2006, 10:08 PM
http://www.boatheaders.com/

Lightning Performance Marine

The headers showed up Friday. Here is what they look like when mounted to the old 350 SBC motor. Price as you see them $2,100.

Contact is Gene.

My pipes have a 5" Dry Extension to them to avoid reversion with my camshaft. This feature also allows a custom tailpipe that can extend all the way through the transom.

Don

MOP
04-18-2006, 11:43 AM
They sure are a nice looking set of tubes, they look to be ceramic coated. So when will you bolt them up to the Modded Mouse and give us some numbers?

DonCig
04-18-2006, 09:20 PM
Phil, I am scheduled to pick up the engine next Monday. We lost a week due to a family emergency at the engine builder. I may skip the dyno run at this point. The only reason for the dyno pull was to break in the engine and dial in the carb jetting. At $500 per day on the dyno, I may just let the top mph tell me what the powerplant is making in HP. The carb jetting is not rocket science and the engine builder who drag races professionally has voluntered to take a shake down run in the Donzi to dial everything in. He is probably the # 1 engine builder in the Rocky Mountain region. He races top fuel and he rebuilds Bugatti, Ferrari and Jaguar engines because "he can" when few other can.

No rush on my part, it is done when it is done. As long as it is done by June 1, 2006 for the Lake Powell DACA event.

Pictures next week of the finished powerplant.

Don

MOP
04-18-2006, 09:41 PM
Setting up by you needs a guy like that, you need to setup another carb for low altitude but thats another time and place. How high up is Powell or will you have to re jet for the trip?

Phil The flat lander running at -0- Alt.

DonCig
04-18-2006, 10:41 PM
Phil, I used to tune a few Holley 4150's in my car road racing days.
Colorado lake level is at 6,000' elevation
Lake Powell lake level is at 3,700' elevation
Lake Cumberland, Possumn Kingdom and Lake of the Ozarks lake levels are at
roughly 760', 925' and 660' feet above sea level. So I will jet for around 800' and fine tune from there.

So specific altitude air density being the beast that it is; it will require at least 3 baseline jetting maps on the Barry Grant Carb. After 1 year of running the Donzi circuit, it should become old hat.

Here are a couple of good threads on the subject.

> Going to a higher elevation will require a jetting change but which way?
> Like our fuel density, air density can also change. Higher elevations have
> less air density then lower ones. At high elevations our engines are getting
> less air, so they need less fuel to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio.
> Generally you would go down one main jet size for every 1750 to 2000 feet of
> elevation you go up, IF you are going to be living and operating the car at
> elevation.
>
> Something else goes down as you go up in elevation is horsepower. You can
> figure on losing about 3% of your power for every 1000 feet you go up. At
> 4000 feet your power will be down about 12%-even though you re-jetted! BUT,
> (there's ALWAYS that "but" <G>), let's say that we're living at 4000 feet,
> it's winter and it's COLD! Aside from throwing another log on the fire you
> should be thinking about jetting again! Yep, 'fraid so, cold air is dense
> air and dense air requires bigger jets. If the smaller jet that you put in
> ran good the day before, you will need a bigger jet to run properly today!
> If the temperature is 50 degrees colder than it was the day before you can
> actually go back to your sea level jetting! Oh hey, hang on, it gets better!
> <G>
>
> Let's say that we just start climbing up, passing through the mountains from
> Buffoonalo to CA and we notice we need fuel. No biggie; there's a little
> store/gas station right at the "git-off", at 4000 ft AGL. Great, a few bucks
> later we're ready to go again, right?. Hmm...., out on the road the car is
> running "funny", sometimes "pinging" and running HOT. What happened?! When
> we changed jets to compensate for altitude and temperature we were still
> using SEA LEVEL gasoline. Gasoline sold at higher elevations has a different
> blend of additives to compensate for the altitude! Yep, generally, high
> elevation gasoline is less dense to compensate for less available air going
> into the engine and to aid starting. The lighter specific gravity of the
> high elevation fuel actually "leans out" the fuel mixture! One to two sizes
> bigger main jet will get us back onto the track.
> Altitude, air temperature, air density, and fuel density
> ALL need to be compensated for if you're operating at altitude. Re-jetting
> makes that much difference

Altitude, Humidy, and Air Temperature
Once the jetting is set and the engine is running good, there are many factors that will change the performane of the engine. Altitude, air temperature, and humidity are big factors that will affect how an engine will run. Air density increases as air gets colder. This means that there are more oxygen molecules in the same space when the air is cold. When the temerature drops, the engine will run leaner and more fule will have to be added to compensate. When the air temerature gets warmer, the engine will run richer and less fuel will be needed. An engine that is jetted at 32š fahrenheight may run poorly when the temperature reaches 90š fahrenheight.

Altitude affects jetting since there are less air molecules as altitude increases. An engine that runs well at sea level will run rich at 10,000 ft due to the thinner air.

Humidy is how much moister is in the air. As humidy increases, jetting will be richer. An engine that runs first in the mornings dry air may run rich as the day goes on and the humidity increases.

Correction factors are sometimes used to find the correct carburetor settings for changing temperatures and altitudes. The chart in fig 8, shows a typical correction factor chart. To use this chart, jet the carburetor and write down the pilot and main jet sizes. Determine the correct air temperature and follow the chart over to the right until the correct elevation is found. Move straight down from this point until the correct coreection factor is found. Using fig 8 as an example, the air temperature is 95š fahrenheight and the altitude is 3200 ft. The correction factor will be 0.92. To find out the correction main and pilot jets, multiple the correction factor and each jet size. A main jet size of 350 would be multiplied by 0.92 and the new main jet size would be a 322. A pilot jet size of 40 would be multiplied by 0.92 and the pilot jet size would be 36.8.




Don

DonCig
05-05-2006, 07:28 AM
Now it is time to bolt on the accessories.

RickSE
05-05-2006, 10:08 AM
Don, looks good. You better get that sucker in there and break it in. :beer:

One question though, did you consider using a full length SBC marine oil pan?

fire it up...fire it up

DonCig
05-07-2006, 11:39 PM
It's starting to look like a marine engine.

MOP
05-08-2006, 06:01 AM
Don it looks great! Sure is nice to have deep pockets!

Phil

Ranman
05-08-2006, 08:17 AM
That serpentine setup looks fantastic! Only way to fly. Will you be keeping the part numbers for that setup on file?

DonCig
05-08-2006, 09:08 AM
Randy, yes I have all the part numbers. I am glad I stayed with the serpentine system.

Jamie, the bracket for the seawater pump is Merc. part # 8077491 ($30).
It mounts to the block in two standard block holes.
Merc. used at least two different belt lengths on my 1997 vintage engine. The first belt length (57-807755-1) was the shorter of the two. Merc. upgraded the power steering pulley material and made the pulley dia. a little larger, so the new correct belt number is #57-861757.

DonCig
05-09-2006, 09:26 PM
I beleive that the engine has sprouted some wings.

gcarter
05-09-2006, 09:30 PM
Pretty engine Don.

DonCig
05-09-2006, 09:34 PM
Scott, thank you for the sound advice. I will get the new HEI style cap.

Gary, thanks for the compliment.

Don



If that is a marine MSD, go get the new style HEI connector cap before you make up wires.. Or leave some slack in em so that when you have to change caps you can change ends..
That socket style cap is NLA in a marine version from MSD anymore...

MOP
05-09-2006, 09:46 PM
Don that is turning out so sweet you have my tongue hanging out, I hope you vid the dyno pulls.

smokediver
05-10-2006, 05:51 AM
Don, that looks SWEET !!!! can't wait to see it in the boat !!!! awesome job .

DonCig
06-01-2006, 07:42 AM
5 days and counting to instalation.
I have the wiring to do this weekend, a different mechanical fuel pump to install in order for the plumbing to clear the starboard motor mount, and a couple of water hoses left to install. Other than that the engine is ready to drop in.
Here are a few pictures.

DonCig
06-01-2006, 09:27 PM
Rootsy, yes they are. Stock Merc. height but with a 5" extension on the tail.

Don

MOP
06-01-2006, 09:35 PM
SO! When are you going to fired it up???? There are other "Wes's" out there:biggrin: :biggrin:

DonCig
06-02-2006, 06:29 AM
MOP, I am expecting to fire it up next Friday.

onesubdrvr
06-02-2006, 06:58 AM
sweet!!

DonCig
06-04-2006, 12:09 PM
I finished the engine last night so it heads into the engine compartment this Tuesday.
I had to make a new remote fuel filter/seperator mount and I had to add a remote Fram HP6 oil filter mount. All the wiring is done and it is ready for some dial in time. I hope to have it on the water next weekend.
Don

DonCig
06-17-2006, 11:53 PM
Lake Powell, here we come.
Lenny, your drive is ready buddy, drop the tablesaw, grab the girl and head to the airport.

Mr X
06-18-2006, 06:56 AM
WOW DON!! looks awesome! Keep us posted on the results.
Ted

BUIZILLA
06-18-2006, 07:23 AM
Don, just curious, but did you mill the air horns off the carb?? or hopefully they didn't come with then...

nice job, i'm impressed....

JH

txtaz
06-18-2006, 08:13 AM
OMG, Don waxed his cockpit deck....:bonk:

Looks good Don, but don't forget the exhaust tips before you head out to Powell...

MOP
06-18-2006, 08:46 AM
SO!!!! What are the dyno numbers!!!!!??????????????????

I know you did not put it in the hole without testing!

DonCig
06-18-2006, 11:24 PM
Jim, the carb is a Barry Grant Marine Demon, no choke, no air horns.

MOP, the engne dyno is called Lake Powell and I have Farmer Tex to man the throttles while I am tweaking the carb.

Don

RickSE
06-19-2006, 12:51 PM
Lake Powell, here we come.

Don, I can't see since the pictures are down but I assume this means your motor is in and the 18 will be here. I hope so. :hyper:

Has anyone heard from Lenny?

DonCig
06-22-2006, 01:05 AM
Motor is in, fired right up, has a nice idle, did it all myself this afternoon.
Lenny, your ride is ready!

Head to Lake Powell Thursday morning.

MOP
06-22-2006, 06:15 AM
Shou Looks Purdy! The culmination of a lot of time and effort, Don how many times did you heart skip as it fired off and finally settled in? Hmmm wonder if you can get your Mitts on one of those Xfactor thingy's talk about having your cake and eating it.:beer:

Phil

DonCig
06-22-2006, 06:37 AM
Phil, it sure took a long time for the mechanical fuel pump to fill the bowls, but once there it settled right in. I think my heart skipped when my son first turned the ignition key. I used a generic "build your own Merc. harness and was worried that maybe I had a wire mis-routed.
I had three issues:
1. New stainless steel solid metal tube fuel rail assembly from Hardin Marine seeped fuel from 3 of their flare fittings, no amount of adjusting the union pressure would stop the fuel leaks so I pulled it off and put on a BG flexible stainless line fuel rail.
2. Seawater pump impeller was stuck, so I rotated it by hand a few times and got it wet and then it started working properly.
3. I have a water pump gasket leaking so I and going to need to remount the water pump when I get to Powell.

Not too bad for a rush instalation job.

DonCig
07-02-2006, 10:09 PM
Jamie and Jim, the boat is done and all the small details that I did not finish before Lake Powell are done. Engine hatch is installed and we head to LOTO at 4:30 am in the morning for a whole week of boating.

Here are some pictures of the finished instalation. I will spend a fair amount of time at LOTO getting the timing advance and the jetting dialed in.

After LOTO I will post GPS and speed/rpm data.

DonCig

smokediver
07-03-2006, 07:18 AM
That looks sweeeeet !!!!!!!! I am surprised that you can run that boat on LOTO . When I was there it seemed everyone was running big boats and the water was like a washing machine . Of course I was trashed but it looked that way to me :yes:

BUIZILLA
07-03-2006, 07:36 AM
Engine looks great, well thought out..

JH

DonCig
07-04-2006, 10:40 PM
As of the 4th of July, 2006 I am oficially in the "80" club with a full tank of fuel. The most amazing number posted today was a steady cruise speed of 62mph at a steady 3800 rpm. The boat was still running on the primary's so the mpg's should be great.
I am pulling 15" of vacumn at idle, but when I put the 31" Blackhawk into gear, the manifold vacumn drops to 5-7" of vacumn. Should I reduce my powervalve from a 6.5 to a 4.5 or 3.5?
The engine is having a small amount of difficulty in the transition, but the engine does not die.

Thanks,

Don

BUIZILLA
07-04-2006, 10:58 PM
I can assume there is a PV blockoff in the secondary side?? if so, try a 5.5 on the primary side, 4.5 may be tooo small....

DonCig
07-05-2006, 07:41 AM
Jim, yes the PV is plugged as supplied from BG on the secondary's.
I am running 75's front and 83's in the back.
Overall carburator performance is very good, I am just trying to dial in the perfect idle and the transition range to 2,000 rpm. Once I am at 2,000 rpm, the performance is perfect. The engine seems to like 15 degrees of initial timing and I have 21 degrees built into the distributor for a total of 36 degrees. Engine is idling at 1,050 rpm before putting it into gear and 775 prm when in gear.

This Barry Grant carb is a little different than my old Holly 4150.

I talked to Eric in tech. last week and here is the set up routine that he reccomended.

1. Set primary and secondary butterflys to show .020" of the transistion slot when looking from the bottom. On a mild cam (under 1,000 rpm) you can leave the secondary butterflys all the way closed.
2. Set four corner idle mixture screws at 1.5 turns out.
3. Set idle eze air screw at 1.5 turns open.
4. Start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature. If you need to increase the butterfly position, do so but make sure and return them back to the .020" setting before doing any adjustments. Adjust the idle mixture screws in 1/4 to 1/8 increments. Do not adjust the buttlerfly screws. The goal is to leave them showing only .020" of the transfer slots. This set up has the best potential to make sure that the transition from idle to the mains is as smooth as possible. Idle speed should be set with the ignition timing and the idle-eze air screw. This concept is new to me but it seems to work well.
5. I adjusted the static ignition timing to 15 degrees and the engine smoothed out and was pulling 15" of vacumn. At 12 degrees timing the engine could only pull 12" of vacumn.

I have found that the idle-eze screw is not a very sensitive adjustment on my carb, total range is about 5-7 full turns, and that it only causes the carburator to gain or loose around +/- 100 rpm over the total adjustment range.

DonCig

DonCig
07-05-2006, 07:59 AM
Smokediver, yes the LOTO can be rough, or as smooth as glass. Take a look at the pictures that I took this am. It is 62 degrees with the high to be around 83 degrees. Probably the nicest July 5th that I can recall in 20 years time.
The LOTO is like any major weekend lake. A very rough bathtub from Friday afternoon at 3 p.m. to Sunday afternoon at 5 p.m..
After the weekenders leave it stays smooth and nice for 5 days.
The LOTO has one major freeway of a channel and a number of major fingers or arms off the main channel. Some of these arms are 11 to 15 miles in length, so one can stay off the main channel on the weekends and still enjoy the Lake.
Based on your condition that weekend here at the Lake, I can safely assume that you were in the vicinity of "Party Cove", around mile marker 20, which is without a doubt the roughest part of the lake every weekend. This is the higher dollar area of the Lake so all the 46' Sea Rays head to the main channel to pull their kids on tubes right in the main channell. It turns this part of the lake into a washing machine and gives you little bobbing heads to miss when running your boat through the area. The smoothest waters on the weekebds are the Gravois arm at 11 miles in length, and the Big Niangua arm at 16 miles in length. Mile marker 92 to mile marker 36 in the main channell is usually pretty nice water on the weekends. I seems that 90% of the boaters hang out on 20% of the lake, specifically from mile marker 1 to mile marker 21.

Anyway, I always bring my Classic 18 here to run on the weekends, but I try to avoid the main channell between 10 am and 4 p.m. if at all possible if I have squemish passengers.

Don

txtaz
07-05-2006, 11:25 AM
HEY!!!! I know that dock...Talk about a sweet place to go boating. I gave up Spurs playoff tickets to go there.

Tell Jerry and Mom I said Hi...Also, Tell Jerry I'm in the Astronaut program now.

Now get to work on the 22c "Grudge Match".

Da Taz
P.S. Come to Florida with us in August for an impromto get together. You'll get to meet MrsTxTaz and she's a hottie.

DonCig
07-05-2006, 12:40 PM
Wes, sorry, but until you own a Donzi, you will just have to be considered a Donzi wanna-be.

I do not pick grudge matches with wanna-be's.

Don

Lenny
07-05-2006, 01:51 PM
Don, to your credit, I have talked to a few people from Powell, and the general consensus was that your motor was just "plain NUTZ"... Reminescent according to one source of the sound the 525SC's made in a local Sceptre Cat here.

Sounds like you have built yourself a handful :yes:

Nice job. :)

Now raise the "X" dimension to 17 1/2" and bolt the BH back up :D

Remember, 78 GPS is doable with that "X" dim and a BH with a stock 350 MAG MPI... so what would 470 horsepower get you in that configuration ???

DonCig
07-05-2006, 03:14 PM
Don, to your credit, I have talked to a few people from Powell, and the general consensus was that your motor was just "plain NUTZ"... Reminescent according to one source of the sound the 525SC's made in a local Sceptre Cat here.
Sounds like you have built yourself a handful :yes:
Nice job. :)
Now raise the "X" dimension to 17 1/2" and bolt the BH back up :D
Remember, 78 GPS is doable with that "X" dim and a BH with a stock 350 MAG MPI... so what would 470 horsepower get you in that configuration ???
so what would 470 horsepower get you in that configuration ???

A Killer Hair Doo!

txtaz
07-05-2006, 05:39 PM
Wes, sorry, but until you own a Donzi, you will just have to be considered a Donzi wanna-be.
I do not pick grudge matches with wanna-be's.
Don

Grrrrrr...Taz with his thumb out...Just wait buckooo..

DonCig
07-06-2006, 05:39 AM
don,
as we spoke before i wouldn't change that PV... you are going to have to increase main jet size if you do otherwise you are going to run into a severely lean condition in the primary to secondary transition... how do i know? i just went through this exact same thing on my BG... i had dropped to a 4.5 PV... almost the same jetting as you and i saw 16.7 - 17.0 A/F Ratio... at 3500 - 4000 rpm and 7 - 8 inches of Hg...
if it drops that many rpms at idle into gear you can do a couple of things.. either it is too lean on the idle jetting or you could put some more initial timing into it... drop back to a bushing that gives 18* or so and add some initial up to that point to make up the difference... you should have no starting issues... where is your float height set at?
just a few ideas... that is a big vacuum and rpm drop into gear... you are not THAT radical on the bumpstick... you should easily be pulling 11 - 12 inches at idle with what you have in there...

Jamie, you have to remember that when I put my drive into gear I am turning 2 thirty one inch props, Blackhawk, so there is a big load on the engine. The engine does not die, but it takes a minute for the carb to handle the transition to load. The carb is pulling 15" before putting it into gear, and then momentarily dropping to 5" of vacumn until the engine settles in and then the vacumn settles in at 7" when idling foward. Moving back to neutral brings the vacumn back to 15". I found some zinc milling chips in the idle transfer slots left over from the BG machining process, so I am going to pull the carb and clean it out and give it another try. My floats are set correctly so foward I go. Most people would be happy with the carb as it is now, but like you I want it to be set up as it was designed to perform.

Jamie, UPDATE, I spent some time this morning dialing it in and I found it. I increased the transfer slot settings by opening them 1/2 turn more. I am now idling out of gear at 1,000 rpm with 14"-15"" of vacumn and in gear at 700 rpm, but I have the vac. in gear at a steady 8.5" vac., so the 6.5" power valve goes back in and I am done. I had a 5.5 in it this morning. Transition from idle, to in gear, to on plane, to WOT is all now seamless.
I made some more top speed runs this am, I think the motor can take a little more timing, but there is really no need. I am at 15 degrees initial with a 21 degree bushing, so a total of 36 degrees with aluminum heads. I could probably run up tp 39 degrees with really good gas.
The motor is currently not stressed on either rpms or timing and still easily get into the low 80's. I ran it this am at 5,200 rpm at 83 mph for a couple of miles and I think that I can easily get it to 86, but that is for another day. Time to load up the family and take a nice long run.


Thanks,


Don

DonCig
07-06-2006, 05:50 AM
Don, to your credit, I have talked to a few people from Powell, and the general consensus was that your motor was just "plain NUTZ"... Reminescent according to one source of the sound the 525SC's made in a local Sceptre Cat here.
Sounds like you have built yourself a handful :yes:
Nice job. :)
Now raise the "X" dimension to 17 1/2" and bolt the BH back up :D
Remember, 78 GPS is doable with that "X" dim and a BH with a stock 350 MAG MPI... so what would 470 horsepower get you in that configuration ???
Lenny, I have no desire to raise my X height, and here is why.
1. The boat is pretty rock solid stable as it is now. If I over trim I can induce chine walk, but if I leave the drive in the perfect spot it is solid as a rock, but at 80+ mph, solid as a rock is RELATIVE!
2. My propshaft centerline is only 1" lower in the water than thrillers Blackhawk drive, I measured both Blackhawks at Powell and they were identical. I would only raise my X by 1" to 2". Now if I had a Delta Pad, then I would go for higher, based on all that I have read.
3. My stock engine hatch is retained, which is a huge positive from my perspective.
4. I currently have drive trim / bow lifting capabilities where others have not had this capability with a higher X dim.
And if Blackhawk drives ever become a durability issue, all I have to do is bolt on a Bravo XR drive and I should never have to play with drives again.

While I will admit that the boat could gain up to 6 more mph with a raised X, I am finding that going over 80 mph in an 18' boat is going fast enough for my contact corrected vision, and no windshield. What I am thoroughly enjoying is the immediate and smooth acceleration that 500 ft/lbs of torque across the majority of the rpm range offers. High Performance jet skis are now toast when they chase my arse.


Don

BUIZILLA
07-06-2006, 08:10 AM
Don, refresh my memory.... are those fast burn chamber heads?? if so, just for grins, back the timing DOWN 4* or so...

JH

Doug L.
07-06-2006, 08:20 AM
Hi Don,

Just a point of interest,
Old Yeller is running 61 @ 4000 !!!

Doug

DonCig
07-06-2006, 08:44 AM
Don, refresh my memory.... are those fast burn chamber heads?? if so, just for grins, back the timing DOWN 4* or so...
JH

Jim, I do not believe that I would call them fast burn heads, they are 76cc AFR Aluminum heads with straights plugs. 9.49 cr

BUIZILLA
07-06-2006, 08:50 AM
Denso spark plugs? if not, get some in the right heat range, and a spark plug flashlight, and i'll share some *load* secrets.....

leave the timing alone, as is, and let it rip...

JH

DonCig
07-06-2006, 09:00 AM
Denso spark plugs? if not, get some in the right heat range, and a spark plug flashlight, and i'll share some *load* secrets.....
leave the timing alone, as is, and let it rip...
JH
Jim, I ordered a spark plug flashlight a month ago and Summit Racing was out of stock. It should show up soon. I am running Autolite 3923 spark plugs and I have some 3924's in the tool box if needed. I think that the matching Denso numbers to the Autolite 3923's would be Denso 5304 (Iridium Plug at $11.99 each) or Denso K20PR-U11 at $2.24 each.

Doug L.
07-06-2006, 10:50 AM
Don,
Old yeller in my 1987 18
Doug

BUIZILLA
07-06-2006, 11:21 AM
Jim, I ordered a spark plug flashlight a month ago and Summit Racing was out of stock. It should show up soon. I am running Autolite 3923 spark plugs and I have some 3924's in the tool box if needed. I think that the matching Denso numbers to the Autolite 3923's would be Denso 5304 (Iridium Plug at $11.99 each) or Denso K20PR-U11 at $2.24 each.If you use the Denso U11's I can help you, if you use the Autolite's I can't...

JH

DonCig
07-09-2006, 11:36 AM
Jim and Jamey, my final timing set up is 18 degrees initial and 18 degrees of centrigugal, all in at 2,500 rpm for a total 0f 36 degrees. I checked it on both ends a couip[le of times. The boat continues to increase in speed with timing all the way up to 39-40degrees, but I backed it back down to 36 drgrees total for engine longevity.
Engine is running at 650-700 rpm in gear and pulling 7-8" of vac. and at idle it is pulling 15" of vac at 1050-1100 rpm.
Did some high speed kill the ignition runs and the plugs are looking good and the heat range appears to be correct.

Most noticable change with the new engine:

The difference between 70mph and 80 mph is a lot more than 10mph!

The boat is now super sensitive to drive trim when going over 75 mph. And for those that are curious, my Bennett trim tabs have been non-operable since they day I arrived, so all the driving and testing was without trim tabs.

Don

roadtrip se
07-09-2006, 11:48 AM
Most noticable change with the new engine:
The difference between 70mph and 80 mph is a lot more than 10mph!
The boat is now super sensitive to drive trim when going over 75 mph. Don

Don, I can't wait see this thing run, but the boat will be a lot more managable with hydraulic steering. Forget the safety factor for a moment, it will just handle better, period.

Gero's boat is a great Blackhawk comparison. I just spent a full day in his boat and the steering makes his boat a hell of alot less hairy at the top end.

Congrats on your results, but at those speeds, it is time.

Putting away soap box.

DonCig
07-09-2006, 12:01 PM
Todd, you missed a small spot behind my ear with the soap!

The real reason I dialed back the timing was to limit my top speed to 79.998 mph. That way I can dodge your soap brush and the Hydraulic steering bill until this winter.

I agree with you that it is time for an upgrade.


Don

RickSE
07-09-2006, 08:33 PM
I've got a short video of Don's boat flying by, along with some others at Powell. It's analog 10mm or VHS but I don't have a way to get it on the net or puter. I'll send a copy to someone if they can burn it to a DVD or a file.

DonCig
07-10-2006, 09:02 AM
Final horsepower number appears to be 450 to 460 H.P. at 660' eleavation, 72 degrees, 30% humidity. If I was to go a single plane manifold there would probably be an additional 15 h.p.
I am going to try a 1" carb spacer and install a wide band oxygen sensor as the next steps before Posumn Kingdom.

Don

DonCig
06-16-2007, 08:40 PM
It has been about a year since I last updated this thread.
Since then I have made a few changes.

1. Added a Bravo XR 1:50 drive and removed the Blackhawk. The faster I went with the BH, the more I missed having some decent degree of bow lift control. I was getting the feeling that I was starting to feel some bow steering tendancies when going over 80 mph. And trying to pull up slalom water skiers was not going well with the BH.
2. Added a Hardin Marine remote oil filter housing and thermostat along with all the appropriate lines. Oil temps were runnnig a littler higher than I would like at Lake Powell; even with a combination Power steering / oil cooler off a Merc. HP500.
3. Added a custom biilt Sendur 3" x 17" oil and power steering cooler. The quality of this unit was exceptional. Thanks Jim H. for the advice. As usual your years of experience saved me a few head aches.
4. Added at Livorsi tattle tale tach unit to go with the tattle tale GPS toggle.
5. Removed the second battery from under the rear seat. Using one large Optima deep cycle in the rear port corner.
6. Added new DANA Marine tips with removeable mufflers.
7. Added a Livorsi Clock to replace the deapth sounder that never worked properly.
8. Put three Mirage Plus XR props in inventory;25RH, 27RH and a 29RH.
9. Went to a 1/4 open hole carb spacer from the 1/2 carb spacer.
10. Set the initial timing at 16 degrees with 18 degrees of cent. advance.
11. Bolted the seats solid to the fiberglass pedastals and removed the sliders completely.
12. Had oxygen sensors added to the Lightning Marine Headers. Made custom copper exhaust gaskets to get away form the cheap paper gastets that should never be used.
13. Installed stainless header adapter flanges versus the old carbon ones.
14. Sanded the bottom completely true and fixed a few voids in the gel coat.
15. Installed a new Sunbrella tonneau cover and threw the old vinyl one away. The vinyl one was good when it rained, but was worthless the rest of the time. It caused more moisture problems than it kept away.
16. Installed an Innovative Motorsports LC-1 oxygen sensor for reading A/F ratios.

If all goes as calculated the boat should hit about 76 to 80 mph at Powell, altitude of 3,600 feet, temperture of 96 degrees. We are talking low density altitude boys! Just imagine what sea level at a brisk 58 degrees and no humidity would do? Other than give me frost bite. LOL

Anyway I plan on firing the engine tomorrow so that we can head off to Lake Powell on Wednesday.

Don

gcarter
06-16-2007, 08:58 PM
Don, what type of coating is on the headers?

DonCig
06-16-2007, 09:13 PM
Don, what type of coating is on the headers?
George, Powdercoat over Powdercoat, Silver sprayed over Blue, which came out very unique I think.

Bt the way, good luck on your Testarosa!