Indoor Heated Winter Storage What should...

[myfinancialadviser]

Im getting ready to put the magnum up for the winter, I've got a good place to store it inside and heated for the winter months. Im putting a check list together for things that need to be done on it prior to letting it sit alllllllllllll winter.
What should I be doing to it?
Is it really necessary to do a full winterization if its going to be sitting in 60 degree storage?
Thanks

[DonziJon]

Im getting ready to put the magnum up for the winter, I've got a good place to store it inside and heated for the winter months. Im putting a check list together for things that need to be done on it prior to letting it sit alllllllllllll winter.
What should I be doing to it?
Is it really necessary to do a full winterization if its going to be sitting in 60 degree storage?
Thanks

Run some Anti Freeze through the engine before storeage. The Anti Freeze protects (by coating) the engine cooling water passages and prevents Rusting during storeage. In addition, if you live in a freezing weather climate, and the heat goes off for some reason, such as the electricity going off during an ice storm, or for some other reason, you're still protected. I had to replace my exhaust elbows because of "Rust Through" a couple of years after I bought the boat.

[pmreed]

Stabil gas treatment; just follow the instructions.

Phil

[Sam]

It'a a crap shoot, if the building loses power then you may have some issues to deal with. Having said that I'm sure the last thing the storage folks want is a bunch of angry boaters with calims. Either way I would run some antifreeze thru the system just to be on the safe side, stabil the gas, put a few "Damp Rid" set ups in just to make sure nothing grows over the winter.

P.S. You have a PM.

Sam

[boldts]

Personally, I'd protect the engine and drive by winterizing anyways.
It would really be a bite to wait on a service shop to replace one or both if for some reason things froze up. Another thing I did whether storing in or out was once they tell you where they want the boat in the building, I'd jack up the trailer and block it to get the weight off the springs and tires. This may of course depend on the building owners policy as to being able to move your boat around as needed.

[myfinancialadviser]

Thanks for all the info. already. Sounds like "better safe than sorry" with the winterizing. I've already pulled all the water fittings (sea strainers, exhaust, transom pick up hoses etc etc.) and have had them dried thourghly to get rid of any water. So, im guessing im going to have to throw all that back together and run some antifreeze through.
Any tricks on the best way to fill the system and coat it thourghly with antifreeze?
thanks again

[RedDog]

T...
Any tricks on the best way to fill the system and coat it thourghly with antifreeze?

Once I know it is drained, I pull the hoses to the block, manifolds, oil, ps, & fuel coolers and pour antifreeze down the hoses until full - antifreeze will run out of the tail pipes.

[DonziJon]

Thanks for all the info. already. Sounds like "better safe than sorry" with the winterizing. I've already pulled all the water fittings (sea strainers, exhaust, transom pick up hoses etc etc.) and have had them dried thourghly to get rid of any water. So, im guessing im going to have to throw all that back together and run some antifreeze through.
Any tricks on the best way to fill the system and coat it thourghly with antifreeze?
thanks again

I use a 5 gallon "Collapsible" plastic water jug (West Marine) with TWO gallons of Prestone anti freeze mixed with TWO gallons of water. Get a flushing "Ear Muff" for the drive and a piece of hose and a step ladder for holding the jug above the engine, and lay the jug on it's side on the ladder shelf. The engine will draw the mixture in as the jug collapses.. with gravitys help.

I have a "Flushing Fitting" on the transom but that only works with hose pressure. How to "mix" the antifreeze and water acurately using that fitting would be problematic.

Run the mixture through the engine twice, by running the engine just long enough until the mixture stops coming out the pipes. Then refill the jug and do it again. I collect the mixture at the exhaust pipes in a big tub under the drive to facilitate this. You might have to be creative here. YEP: It's a pain in the arse. But what's a mother to do??

Anybody got an eazier method, I'd be all ears. OH WAIT.. Have someone else do it. http://www.donzi.net/ubb/graemlins/cool.gif

[Lenny]

Disconnect the Batteries. from any load/potential load. This will also minimize ANY elctrolysis that might want to come and play with dis-similar metals in series...

I do the same, heated shop, on site, but I run it about once a month for 1/2-1hour in a huge bucket to keep it fresh and verify that it still works. Keeps the batterys happy, the motor happy, the carb happy and lets the trailer tires (Carlisle) find a new "bottom".

We seldom ever see anything below zero here tho.

[MOP]

It is also a important to change the oil even if it only has a few hours on it and fog the engine out, that gets rid of the contaminates in the oil, the fogging protects the cylinders and related parts.

Phil

[CHACHI]

After you change the oil run the enginr for 15-20 minutes before you fog it to "change" the oil in the lifters, if you are running hydraulics. No need to leave contaminated oil in the parts of the engine. Ken