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Reedy
09-12-2005, 12:24 PM
Looking for any advise on re doing the caulk under the rub rails on a 16 Classic. From what I can tell, 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant is the way to go. This is a 10 yr. old boat, and it looks like the caulk up under the rub rail has just aged and needs replacing. It probably has about 80% still good, and the other 20% with some gaps. Any tips?

MOP
09-12-2005, 12:35 PM
5200 is one of the best products out there, I must have used 10lbs on my project. If you use it to caulk a seam from below do very short runs followed by tape, the 5200 will sag like crazy where ever thickly applied. Clean up is a pain, you may be just as well off using silicone it holds much better upside down.

Phil

mrfixxall
09-12-2005, 12:51 PM
I agree with mop,and take the advise on the masking tape it makes a cleaner job.i suggest boat life sealer irt goes on really smooth.if you use 5200 you may never get the top deck off the hull if you ever have to do any repairs in the future..

Sam
09-12-2005, 07:18 PM
I think 3-M makes a quicker drying product called 5100. I agree with MOP on the drip / sagging issue with the 5200.

Tidbart
09-13-2005, 06:31 AM
On the advice of Donzigo, I used 5200 to do my 18 in the same place you are about to do. It came out great. The best tip he gave me to use WD 40 on my fingertip to smooth the caulk. Worked like a charm. No taping was necessary. Good luck. :D

Bob

Cuda
09-13-2005, 06:51 AM
I used 5200 in the same spot on my Checkmate. I had a mess of biblical proportions. :(

Denatured alcohol will somewhat clean it up. :(

MOP
09-13-2005, 07:15 AM
Bob I am surprised about saying it went easy, I have been using it for a very long time never got away with using it upside down even in the winter when it gets a little stiffer.

OK Richard step in here and tell us your trick!

Phil

Ted Guldemond
09-13-2005, 07:33 AM
3-M makes two flavors of 5200. One takes about a week to harden. The other hardens in 24 hours and skins over in 2-3 hours. Both are meant for premanent applications (something you never plan on taking appart). The fast acting version is the way to go. 4200 is a different product intended for applications that may need to be taken appart. It does clean up with paint thinner. By the way, I assume you are talking about the hull to deck seam, and not actually caulking the rub rail to the boat?

Reedy
09-13-2005, 09:07 AM
Hull to deck gap, yes. Where the deck has about a 1/4 inch gap of over hang all around the hull. I am trying to insure water does not enter. The factory caulk is just wearing out in a few places. You would never see it unless you look up from below rub rail.

MOP
09-13-2005, 10:41 AM
Reedy in my opinion pull off the rub rail, I had gaps like that on mine what I found was the screwa behind the rub rail had loosened. I removed each and everyone injected silicone into the gap and re screwed the whole thing with silicone on the screws and also added about 50 screws all the way round, when done I only slight but filled gaps here and there which I ran a bead over all the way round. Including installing new rub rail and the extra screws it took me about 4 hours and two batteries for the Makita working by myself.

Phil

thriller
09-13-2005, 10:59 AM
IMO, I would use a product called "Pro Flex". Available in clear,white,almond and polar white. Silicone product widely used in the RV industry. Flexible yet won't peel like most silicones. Ensure the surface is dry/clean and apply in a warm enviroment. Flash set's pretty quick. Key is to cut the tip with a razor knife and ensure it's cut at a 45 degree angle and make sure the tip hole size is no larger than 1/16th " work in 4 ft sections and follow with your finger tip lightly coated in soapy (dish detergent) water.

Good Luck:crossfing

MM

Islander
09-13-2005, 11:13 AM
This company
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/decoder_debond2000.jsp
sells a product called De-Bond that claims to remove 5200. I haven't tried it myself and would be curious if anyone has and what results they obtained.

The link is wonky, I had to click on it a few times to get the page to open.

Chili 18
09-13-2005, 03:17 PM
RE Jamestown Distributors.

Ive have good results with this company. Good prices, knowledgable, fast shipping... Recommended!!

Chili

gcarter
09-13-2005, 06:51 PM
I've watched this one 'cause I've some opinions.
Screws holds the deck to the hull, right?
The stuff you put in the joint just keeps the water out, right?
You wanna be able to get apart, right?
Use something you can get apart easily!
If you're racing, that's different. If you're in the ocean frequently, maybe you want some additional strength, maybe through bolt the joint.
IMHO, 5200 is a wonderful product to use where you want absolute watertightness. I use it on trim tab mountings, through hull fittings, joints that are under water continuously.
If you want to keep an occasional wave out, use your favorite brand of silicone (or RTV).
You'll be happy when you want to change the fuel tank.

sparepartz
09-21-2005, 07:28 PM
That De-Bond it stuff works totally!!!

JPR
09-21-2005, 08:02 PM
George this id off topic, but in the hull to deck joint on your minx, does the deck overlap the hull (like a shoebox) or is it a butt joint where the deck meets the hull?

gcarter
09-21-2005, 09:24 PM
It overlaps like a box. I chose to throughbolt it. There are about 200 #10 and 1/4 machine screws through the joint.
Oh yeah, I caulked it with RTV.

JPR
09-22-2005, 12:50 AM
I now have a better understanding of why you are not afraid to remove the deck to change a tank or a motor. The overlapping joint would help with line-up on reassembly - my bertram baron has the hull/deck joint that is a butt joint and is glassed together - that was why I was afraid to take the deck off lest the hull springs. Thanks for the info.