My First Donzi, '78 X-18, Water in Hull???

[Kirbyvv]

After spending a lot of time on the registry over the last year and a half, asking a few questions and checking out some boats for sale, I finally bit the bullit and bought a 78 X-18. Rebuilt SBC with a volvo 280. Took about 36 hours to drag her home last weekend from the Maryland line to Lake George after hitting a big pot hole and breaking a trailer leaf spring on I-81 near Frackville, PA, then hitting a 4x4 on I-88. Getting a leaf spring replaced on Saturday of labor day weekend was rough. couldn't get the exact replacement so had use a different kind of spring, cut off the hangers and get everything welded back together. Glad I had a good book. Bevans garage in Frackville, PA was great to me.
Finally got her in the water on Sunday (Sept. 4th). Ran great and soooo much fun to drive. Never had a boat with tabs before and never drove from the port side, but am getting the hang of it quickly. Had her in the water for 2 days and when I pulled her out and pulled the drain plug I probably had 5 gallons of water on board. No rain, hull is sound, drain plug was in nice and tight, water was not warm (lake temp). Where did it come in from???? Where should I start looking???

[mrfixxall]

well if the hull is sound i would put the old ear muffs on her and fire her up and ck all the hoses,water pump,sea pump etc,,, or check under the bow moldings to see if the sealer let loose........

[Lenny]

1978 with Port Steering ???

Am I missing something?

I too get water in mine, about a gallon in a day, BUT it never gets any higher??? even after left in the water for 4 days. ???

I suspect the speedo fastenings on the transom or tube in my case. I figure since it only gets to a minor level it must equalize or something. Also, you do get water in the hull from the forward facing vent when you play in big water but certainly not 5 gallons in a day. :eek:

If your bilge pump does not have a one-way valve in it you can also get some from the transom when coming off the throttle quickly and swamp the transom. It gets in the bilge pump chrome/bronze fitting and runs down the hose to the bilge-pump.

Put the leg in a huge Rubbermaid container, they make many, and fill it up with water and then run it for half an hour. If the bilge WAS dry, then after you turn it off it still should be. If it is then your problem resides OUTSIDE of the hull. Transom Shield dough-nut, exhaust plate block off below U-joint Belows where the Y-pipe could have been on a different style boat, speedo tube, trim tab mounts/screws, 3 holed transom water plug fitting leaking, obvioulsy the drain plug itself etc etc.

Check the colour of the oil in the drive by undoing the big screw on top and see the level and colour. Check the oil in the motor (dipstick) for obvious water clues.

[Dregsz]

First guess is a seapump leak. reseal the back of the seapump, replace the impellar when you have the back off, or at least check to see if it has all the blades.

I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune on the way home.
Lenny's suggestion of a rubbermaid is right on.

or just watch it idle and look for any puddling or drippage below the front of the motor.
You can see if the front of the circulating pump is dry,
You might not see the actual leak from the seapump but you might see a trickle of water under it, and the bilge pump turning on and off periodically when the boat is running but 5 minutes after you stop it should pump below the float and stop running.
If that makes sense:
If the bilge pump goes on and off when the boat runs and stops a few minutes after the boat shuts off then there is water leaking out of your system somewhere (Sea or Circ pump most likely) if it comes on and off every hour when you are just sitting and not running it's seeping in from elsewhere.

Tie up at the dock, bring a cigar, a good book, a sixpack, whatever, run the bilge till dry. then run the boat at idle for 5 or ten minutes, then shut it down and hang out and notice what the bilge pump does when running and after.

or just use the rubbermaid like Lenny said.

Post some pics of your X

Evan

[DonziJon]

After spending a lot of time on the registry over the last year and a half, asking a few questions and checking out some boats for sale, I finally bit the bullit and bought a 78 X-18. Rebuilt SBC with a volvo 280. Took about 36 hours to drag her home last weekend from the Maryland line to Lake George after hitting a big pot hole and breaking a trailer leaf spring on I-81 near Frackville, PA, then hitting a 4x4 on I-88. Getting a leaf spring replaced on Saturday of labor day weekend was rough. couldn't get the exact replacement so had use a different kind of spring, cut off the hangers and get everything welded back together. Glad I had a good book. Bevans garage in Frackville, PA was great to me.
Finally got her in the water on Sunday (Sept. 4th). Ran great and soooo much fun to drive. Never had a boat with tabs before and never drove from the port side, but am getting the hang of it quickly. Had her in the water for 2 days and when I pulled her out and pulled the drain plug I probably had 5 gallons of water on board. No rain, hull is sound, drain plug was in nice and tight, water was not warm (lake temp). Where did it come in from???? Where should I start looking???

Maybe it's time for a new Universal Joint bellows. I just replaced mine in my "86 Minx this summer. It was the original. (Alpha 1) It had a slight crack in between the folds and I believe it was contributing to my own little leak. The leak is now gone. Raize the drive up all the way and look up under the drive with a flashlight while "digging" around with your fingernails. If you ignore it and it fractures all the way it will ruin your day. Boy am I full of good news today??? Hope this sheds some light.

[Lenny]

Tie up at the dock, bring a cigar, a good book, a sixpack, whatever, run the bilge till dry. then run the boat at idle for 5 or ten minutes, then shut it down and hang out and notice what the bilge pump does when running and after.



That wouldn't work for me :D

[Dregsz]

That wouldn't work for me :D

OK, I'll bite:

Lenny, why would that not work for you?
(I did say also to just use the rubbermaid)

Do you know anyone in BC that wants my X18? I'll deliver it, or work something out, (I don't know how the border works)

Thanks
Evan

[Kirbyvv]

Lenny,
I'm new to this, so tell me if I'm wrong. Latest title from seller says 1978, and copy of the previous title also say '78. HIN is DMR181630678X. I thought it was boat #163, made in June of 1978. What are your thoughts?



1978 with Port Steering ???

Am I missing something?

I too get water in mine, about a gallon in a day, BUT it never gets any higher??? even after left in the water for 4 days. ???

I suspect the speedo fastenings on the transom or tube in my case. I figure since it only gets to a minor level it must equalize or something. Also, you do get water in the hull from the forward facing vent when you play in big water but certainly not 5 gallons in a day. :eek:

If your bilge pump does not have a one-way valve in it you can also get some from the transom when coming off the throttle quickly and swamp the transom. It gets in the bilge pump chrome/bronze fitting and runs down the hose to the bilge-pump.

Put the leg in a huge Rubbermaid container, they make many, and fill it up with water and then run it for half an hour. If the bilge WAS dry, then after you turn it off it still should be. If it is then your problem resides OUTSIDE of the hull. Transom Shield dough-nut, exhaust plate block off below U-joint Belows where the Y-pipe could have been on a different style boat, speedo tube, trim tab mounts/screws, 3 holed transom water plug fitting leaking, obvioulsy the drain plug itself etc etc.

Check the colour of the oil in the drive by undoing the big screw on top and see the level and colour. Check the oil in the motor (dipstick) for obvious water clues.

[Dregsz]

Lenny,
I'm new to this, so tell me if I'm wrong. Latest title from seller says 1978, and copy of the previous title also say '78. HIN is DMR181630678X. I thought it was boat #163, made in June of 1978. What are your thoughts?

That wouild make mine hull 132 built March of 1976.
Interestingly, I have read that 171 were built but the registry only acknowledges 156.
Evan

[Dregsz]

Mine has starboard side steering, is there any rhyme or reason as to why one would be port or starboard?
Owner order?
mercruiser v volvo?
Mine is original starboard.

(sorry to pirate the thread)



Evan

[boxy]

OK, I'll bite:

Lenny, why would that not work for you?
(I did say also to just use the rubbermaid)

Do you know anyone in BC that wants my X18? I'll deliver it, or work something out, (I don't know how the border works)

Thanks
Evan


If all Lenny had was a six pack, the block would barely get cool, before he would have to make a beer run, and miss whereever the leak was. If you want Lenny to sit on the dock for longer than 20 minutes you'd better have a full cooler.......... :D :D

PS: booked my flights today Lenny, I'll be on the Left Coast for 4 days this fall...

[Lenny]

Boxy,... :D

Yes, I could get rid of your X on this Coast and a Border. The border is a "nothing" to deal with bringing one in if you are honest and play by the rules.

NAFTA makes it easy as it is a USA made vessel. Mail me if you like.

highlnd@telus.net

:)

[ChromeGorilla]

Lenny,
I'm new to this, so tell me if I'm wrong. Latest title from seller says 1978, and copy of the previous title also say '78. HIN is DMR181630678X. I thought it was boat #163, made in June of 1978. What are your thoughts?

Could it be this as well.....

163 boat #
06 build month of June
7 build year 1977
8 model year 1978

[MOP]

Besides all of the above another good possibility is due to the low free board on 16's & 18's the engine vents can & do take in water in hard turns, I know it happened me on quite a few occasions. Next time you crank it over real hard in a turn look back and you will see the water hitting the engine compartment vents. My 16 did it more so in hard left's due to my right hand prop, a lefty prop will lean it harder in right turns. You can flatten the turn by dropping the tab a little, Mad Poodle put me onto that trick!

Phil

[Dregsz]

my X18 is DMR181320376 so that doens't fit with that theory, (I don't think)

Evan


Could it be this as well.....

163 boat #
06 build month of June
7 build year 1977
8 model year 1978

[Dregsz]

Water in Hull???

Hey Kirby, not to be a stickler but when I first read the title of the thread I thought you were saying you had water in the hull, like rot, I would describe this condition as water in the bilge.
I'm glad you don't have water inside the hull.
Evan

[mattyboy]

other things to look at
speedo tube
was anyone swimming
sharp turns
water can be trouble in an x-18

[Dregsz]

Once I'm planning I bring my tabs all the way up and trim the outdrive for speed

[Kirbyvv]

Evan:
Yes it is water in the bilge. I'll check it out this weekend. It looks like it is in similar condition to yours, Evan, just was alot easier to coordinate getting it home. Needs a little compounding. I'll post some pic's if I remember the camera this weekend.
Thanks for all the hints.
Based on the HIN I still think it's a '78 with port side steering

[Sagbay32]

Could the water have been trapped up front in the hull under the gas tank or under the floor area? This happened to me when I first got the boat. It had rained and ran under the cover and nobody noticed it because it was under the floor. It didn't appear in the bilge area until I got on it and raised up the bow. It all flowed through the little tube drain into the bilge.

Just a thought
Mike

[Kirbyvv]

No it was new water. It was trailered from Florida and then parked on a hill with the plug open the entire time. I'm gong to take everyones recommendations and investigate this weekend.

[Dregsz]

Evan:
Evan, just was alot easier to coordinate getting it home.

On paper maybe but It sounds like in the long run comercial delivery may have been cheaper =)

I'm sorry you had trouble getting it home, it sounds like the trip from hell.

I appreciate your and Mark's interest in my X18, and I wish you both luck and much satisfaction in the East Coast boats you procured.

There have been several good suggestions here on what may be causing your leak. If you have a clue on volume it would also indicate what part is leaking.

The sea pump will piss while running and a few minutes after until it's line is clear, ( in my experience)

I agree w your serial # decoding

Thanks
Evan

[Dregsz]

Did you get the red boat in the classified section that was listed about the same time as mine?

[mattyboy]

Kirby,
the stringers on the x 18 can be very suseptable to water damage as most were cut and left exposed from the factory
git err done :)

[Kirbyvv]

Thanks, yes the ones on my new X-18 have been cut at the mounts and to clear the alternator. They have been painted, but not glassed. I'll git er done!

[mattyboy]

hope to cya in LK George this weekend
good luck keep us posted

[Kirbyvv]

From the X HIN's I have seen, that seems right.. I would asume with the Volvo drive it is a 300 Chris Craft engine??

I'm new to this so am not sure on the engine. All I know is it is a SBC, and has the corvette flag insignia on the valve covers.

[Marlin275]

From the X HIN's I have seen, that seems right.. I would asume with the Volvo drive it is a 300 Chris Craft engine??

Scott
I need a new Chris Craft engine, you have any sources?
My boatyard guys are dragging their feet.

Chad

[rustnrot]

Chris Craft no longer labels their engines as such anymore. AFAIK they use volvo (chevy blocks). I would replace with a Crusader or Pleasurecraft Marine (PCM) now the same company made in South Carolina.

[Dregsz]

I'm new to this so am not sure on the engine. All I know is it is a SBC, and has the corvette flag insignia on the valve covers.

Sorry Bro, edge bolt "Corvette Valve covers" fit on any Chevy small block from 1955- 1990, 283- 400 CID, (there may have even been a 265 CI motor) and are available on ebay for $12 and up.

If you have a set of casting numbers I can research it for you.

On a brighter note, if the boat is running in the 50s it's probably a 350ci motor

[joseph m. hahnl]

Sorry Bro, edge bolt "Corvette Valve covers" fit on any Chevy small block from 1955- 1990, 283- 400 CID, (there may have even been a 265 CI motor) and are available on ebay for $12 and up.

If you have a set of casting numbers I can research it for you.

On a brighter note, if the boat is running in the 50s it's probably a 350ci motor


on the port side of the engine block to the rear just under the head there should be a casting block identifier. if it's a 350 it should read 5.7 G
(not sure when they started labeling them in metric) i beleive the g stands for gasoline.

as far as your leak if you use the rubber maid don't forget to leave the hose running in the bucket. but ear muffs are pretty cheap at wal-mart
"not that i would ever shop there." :shocking:
one other thing not sure if this applies to an x-18
but my minx uses a pipe thread for the drain plug this is an interference fit thread."tappered" i seal mine with teflon tape and it doesn't come back out until she's ready to be stored for winter.


joe

[Dregsz]

WAIT!!

Don't do the rubbermaid Unless you can get water into the motor.

My Merc package takes fresh water in through a fittoing on the transom and doesn't have a flush fitting.

I don't know jack about Volvos but unless you can get water INTO the motor don't run the rubbermaid test.

Unfortunately, I have to do all my test and tuning on the ramp or dockside.

[Dregsz]

And were standard equipment on the Chris Craft LT1 power package....


With the 010 block.....


And I believe the original ones are worth more then 12 bucks........

He isn't claiming to have original valve covers, he says he knows nothing about Chevys


Are we talking about the 69-82 "cross flag" valve cover emblem?

repro priced $7

http://www.volvette.com/page/VVP/PROD/Engine-valve-cover/EN30

Or the black, "finned" 78-82 Corvette Valve cover, in Repro, $260 per set.
This is from the most expensive vette resto place around, I have bought more the a few X18s worth of stuf from them.

While I may have been a bit cynical saying you can buy edge bolt covers for $12, there are 1100 chevrolet Valve cover auctions currently on Ebay, many nice ones for $20-$30, actually a few for $10-$12, and Kirby hasn't identified which covers he has or if they are 78 Black L82 Vettes or any other, just the cross flag emblem, which sells new for $7

http://motors.search.ebay.com/chevy-valve-covers_W0QQfromZR8QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ3QQsamcmZ6000QQsa spiZ2QQssPageNameZWLRS

I don't know who he bought his boat from, how much info he got on it, and if it is what it's supposed to be, or if the seller even knew what it was.

Got Pics?

[Dregsz]

True, but you do not know whether they are original or not, yet you immediately claim they are repro's... The CC package came with original Vette valve covers, they are worth a bit more than 12 bucks...

That would depend on the condition

Kirby didn't indicate (at least not in this thread) the boat was reported to be equipped with an original CC package.

Only you made that "assumption". Even if it was originally equipped that way it could have gone through 5 blocks of any displacement since then, and if they were all sbcs the V/Cs would fit.

I only saw him say he had a small block chev, with valve covers w vette flags.
Those emblems were on vettes for 13 years w various finishes, and available in the aftermarket for 23 years since.

I offered to decode his casting numbers. That would tell what he really has, because we can talk about valve covers all day and go no where. we haven't even seen a pic of the V/Cs to decide what year vette they were off or if the same as the Chris craft you are so sure of.


I didn't even give them as much credit as repro V/cs, repros are Bux$.
The emblem is cheap though. I was thinking more like stamped steel knock offs for $12 with a $7 emblem, to make a point.

I'm pointing out that valve covers don't mean anything becausae they are 4 bolts per side, the most commonly replaced dress up item on any motor, and have no bearing what so ever as to the motor that they are attached to, other then they fit, in this case a first gen SBC with a 35 year production run.

My point is only a fool would look at a 27 yo motor on a boat of unkown history, and identify it by a set of valve covers.

There are 2600 pairs of valve covers for sale, right this minute on ebay.
The point is, They are a very portable item.

I was mildly cynical and pragmatic in this thread, My point is exceptionally valid.

You may or may not know more about the history of Kirby's boat or reported info then appears in this thread, but my point is well made and entirely valid.

This is the second time I admitted my cynicism.

I for one have seen Corvette frauds tried to be passed off as vintage or collectable.
That's why "numbers matching" cars bring high prices. There are no "numbers matching" valve covers, even if they are period correct or year specific

Evan

[MOP]

Hoping for nice weather so he can do more testing to find the source of the water, be nice to find that out.

MOP

[Kirbyvv]

I was told the motor is the original 1978 and is a corvette motor. Can I assume it is the Chris Craft LT1 package??? The seller gave me a tupperware container filled with reciepts dating from the early 1980's and think I have a complete list of previous owners (original owner had it till 1996). Looks like she spent her first 18 years in California. Motor was completely rebuilt in Sept. '04 and (can't remember off the top of my head) the 280 outdrive in the early 2000's. From the condition of the boat I don't think it has had a lot of use-original gel coat, original seats and upolstery, original gauges, etc. I will look for the casting number

As far as the water in the bilge goes, I'm going to hook up the garden hose to the intake, pop the cover and a beer and sit in the driveway and watch. If no leaks in hoses or pump I'll move on to an in the water test as suggested.

[mattyboy]

Kenny's
72 20 cig came with a CC pakage with the old cast iron CC logs
had like a FLT number on it Corvette valve covers I tell you what after he put the Stainless exhaust on that thing it pushes that boat to 60 with an old volvo on it those motors run :yes:

[mattyboy]

:bonk:

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2719


http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3391

[Kirbyvv]

Here is a shot of the motor from the '78 X-18.

[mattyboy]

Kirby nice
yup Kenny's had those old logs think stainless tell santa you want stainless :yes:

[Lenny]

That was a beautiful boat when she was recently for sale. :yes:

I would do the giant rbbermaid thing, sit down for half an hour and then look. Play with the rpms a bit too and look at the pump on the front end of the block. (on crank)

I also see NEW-ish trim tab nuts in there so that might be suspect.

[Dregsz]

Based on the info in THIS thread prior to my 1st post in it, I was warning Kirby that valve covers are a dime a dozen and Offered to interpret his casting numbers.

It would be a fair word to the wise to anyone.

I didn't jump to any conclusions.

Can we drop this now?



LOL, while I agree that only a fool would try and ID an engine by the valve covers, if the alleged fool knew for a fact the boat was delivered with a CC package, said fool would then go with the notion that the alleged Vette valve covers were indeed original and still on the boat and therefore said fool would advise the current owner not to let someone who jumped to the immediate conclusion that they were repro valve covers influence their decision as to whether or not they were indeed original until such time as they could be identified.. ;)


Hopefully by a non-fool?? :) :)




I need more coffee :) :) :)

[BUIZILLA]

At this point in time casting numbers are an easy verification as Dregsz states. LT1's were solid lifter in 70-71-72, hyd in 73-74 in auto applications. 70-71-72 had Holley carb's, 73-74 had Q-jets. You can buy those valve covers today straight out of GM-SPO catalogs for use on any small block Chevy vintage. My '69 Nova has a set of those.

Jim

[Dregsz]

Hey Kirby,

Does the the emblem on your valve covers look kinda like this?

http://image06.webshots.com/6/9/29/26/98092926kkJLTl_fs.jpg

[mrfixxall]

lt1 engines also had 2.02 intake valves,,,,you might wanna check the spark plug holes,,, i think the heads also had angled plugs........

[BUIZILLA]

I have had 2 different matching numbers LT1 Camaro's, both 1970 car's, both had straight plug heads.

JH

[Cuda]

Back to the water question. On the Checkmate I just bought, I found water in the bilge. I found it was coming from water splashing up under the rubrail, and coming through the joint between the hull and the deck. A little 5200 cured it.

[Chili 18]

One darker possibility.... Is that the block has been freeze cracked or the freeze plugs pushed out part way. On my 18. (Also had the gold aluminum corvette covers). The rubber driveshaft boot was shot, and replaced. But that didnt end the water. Nope. Block was cracked. Hope that didnt happen to yours. A bit of water from swimming, turns, and waves... just seems normal.

[Dregsz]

One darker possibility.... Is that the block has been freeze cracked or the freeze plugs pushed out part way. On my 18. (Also had the gold aluminum corvette covers). The rubber driveshaft boot was shot, and replaced. But that didnt end the water. Nope. Block was cracked. Hope that didnt happen to yours. A bit of water from swimming, turns, and waves... just seems normal.


Lets rule out the little easy things first before we start into cracked blocks etc.
It's easy to check for blown head gasket, cracked head or block in a closed system like a car with a radiator, (block test kit), but not as straight forward in a boat.
A milk shake in the pan may be a good indicator if a water jacket is compromised, but freeze plug isssue may be harder to diagnose.


As for the LT1 motor, Chevy put them in Vettes (and Camaros) from 1070-1972. I don't know what the specs were in the Chris Craft Motors after 1972, (or before for that matter) but the 1978 HO Corvette motor was the L-82 putting out about 250 hp.

[mrfixxall]

i have a 70 1/5 z28 with 7000 or miles on it ,,and my dad bought new.....it has angled plug heads on it,,,,,, you got ripped off............................

[mrfixxall]

you thought you had a z 28,,,,,,i have a # matching 70 1/2 Z28 with a 350 lt1 350 hp with 7000 miles on it my dad bought new .it has angled plug heads on it.

[BUIZILLA]

angle plug heads were NEVER factory items on 70 LT1's, what would you like to wager?? ... my checkbook is WIDE open.... and I mean wide open... I went through 3 years of NHRA tech procedures on them for the F.A.S.T. series... NHRA recognizes only the 186 casting for Stock competition... I just happen to own the *world's fastest stock appearing '70 LT1* configuration in a Nova.

what are your casting numbers??... 186 casting was the FACTORY '70 LT1 head, except Corvette used the 414 casting in '70 only... if your's are angled plugs, they are the 492 casting *over the counter only* style, 492's were absolutely, positively NEVER factory installed in either straight or angle plug on '70 LT1's.

start here>> www.mortec.com

Jim

[mrfixxall]

i just asked my dad ,,,,he ordered it that way it costed him another 329.00 to get the angled plug heads on the lt1 motor he also said that with those heads it will put out 375 hp so we r both rite ,,,,it was a option......

[BUIZILLA]

i just asked my dad ,,,,he ordered it that way it costed him another 329.00 to get the angled plug heads on the lt1 motor he also said that with those heads it will put out 375 hp so we r both rite ,,,,it was a option......
your seriously mistaken......... there was never a 492 headed LT1 that came out in a Chevrolet Factory car in 1970. He may have had the dealer install them, once the car got to the dealer, but it absolutely wasn't built, and shipped from the factory, with them. The engine was rated at 360 in a Camaro, 370 in a Corvette. It was never rated at 350 in '70. The 10hp difference was ONLY in the ram horn manifolds that the Corvette had, I happen to have BOTH sets of those FACTORY ORIGINAL manifolds for your inspection right now. Poodle can attest to my car's, and both of the manifolds existence. I'd be willing to start at a $10,000 wager on this documentation, and that's just for starters.... I have a folder full of Chev, NHRA, IHRA, Year One, Yenko, Harrell, Motion, yada-yada documentation on this... what is the 3 letter code stamped on the engine pad? it should be the same as my '70 Z was, if it's an original stick car.... your car, if it's a legit '70, came from the factory with 186 heads. PERIOD.

Jim

[mrfixxall]

you have issues,,,take a pill,,,,,i really dont care if you have a ugly nova or what ever you call a race car which probably isnt fast anyways......i see angled plug heads on the car which was never touched by the dealer he bought it from which my uncle owned....................and im not going to take off a valve cove to prove you wrong....... what is is what is and what was is what was and it does have angled plug head on it from the factory period............................................ .................................................. ...........................................

[mrfixxall]

p.s. your ck book is wide open???????? i dont take checks period

[farmer tx]

ahh oohh :rolleyes: :shocking: :toiletpap :banghead:

[BUIZILLA]

I will double my bet to you, PERSONALLY, to prove your allegations, i'll raise you to $20,000 cash right now, so put up, or shut up. Do you have the money? I doubt you do... if your so sure your dad's car is correct, and numbers match from the FACTORY assembly line, then this is an easy deal for you..... :D you don't have a single iota of proof your right, because it never happened in the first place. Just admit you made up your story, and move on...

JH

[Kirbyvv]

If anyone cares anymore I think I figured out the water in the bilge. Leaking gasket at one of the exhaust risers, AND (Lenny was correct) leaking at the screws for the trim tabs. both will be fixed this week, then back on the water for another test.

[Lenny]

:D :D :D That makes it officially ONE (1) correct answer from me in that last 5 years :D http://www.donzi.net/forums/images/smilies/party.gif
:beer: :shocking:

[MOP]

Lenny you are being way to modest! True admitted by you your mechanical expertise is on the light side but coming along well. Your technical knowledge of glass and resins is well above the norm and you have shared and helped many, you get a gold star in my book!

MOP