1978 Donzi X-18 For Sale

[dbjackson]

This Donzi has excellent original gelcoat, original interior, original cockpit cover. The motor is a 350 chevy that has been completly overhauled including new starter, alternator, blower. Outdrive is a 280 Volvo with stainless steel prop. Bennet trim tabs, trailer has been completly redone. Stainless steel roller shafts, new paint, & new carpet. THIS IS A VERY CLEAN AND SOLID BOAT.

Price : $12,500. SOLD!!!!!!!!!!!!

941-744-0984
Located in Bradenton, Florida.

[markdonzi]

Any chance you could drive halfway to meet me? I would be coming down from NY. Also another couple questions.
Is the trailer in good towable condition?
Does the boat have power tilt?
I don't see the carpet in the picture? Is it orange?
Do all the gauges and lights work?
All original including wheel controls, decals, chrome?
What speed do you get?
Used in Salt water?
Thanks
markdonzi

[Lenny]

MarkDonzi, the pic with the 280 drive up indicates that the tilt is working. If not, it is about a $300 fix. There is no trim on that drive, (as it is not a 280T) . No biggy.

Also, it appears his Volvo 280 has a nose cone. You don't see that everyday.

Nice looking offering.

It appears (at first glance) to be correct for parts and accessories other than twin ram tabs. Exhaust looks to be in a stock location as well.

[Kirbyvv]

Lenny (and Mark too):
I just purchased the X-18 and am working on getting it north. There will be a new X-18 on Lake George next summer. Quick question for Lenny..what is a nose cone on the 280 drive?

Mark..give me a call I got a way lower transport quote for the black and white X-18 from the west coast when it was on e-bay a few months ago 798-3962. Go for it and we can have two X's on the northern end of the Lake.

MarkDonzi, the pic with the 280 drive up indicates that the tilt is working. If not, it is about a $300 fix. There is no trim on that drive, (as it is not a 280T) . No biggy.


Also, it appears his Volvo 280 has a nose cone. You don't see that everyday.

Nice looking offering.

It appears (at first glance) to be correct for parts and accessories other than twin ram tabs. Exhaust looks to be in a stock location as well.

[Lenny]

Quick question for Lenny..what is a nose cone on the 280 drive?

The pointy thing at the bow end of the drive (part underwater) instead of a blunt, non-hydrodynamic pile of aluminum that is not very slippery.

:)
Congrats :yes:

[Mr X]

Dang, the X-18 is 20 minutes from my house AND I am leaving for Maryland to pick up my new Donzi tomorrow. I wish I knew earlier...maybe I could have towed it up there for you.

[gold-n-rod]

I am leaving for Maryland to pick up my new Donzi tomorrow.

Details......... we need details. :umbrella:

[Mr X]

I will post pics and photos soon in another thread.
I do not want to hijack this thread.

[Mr X]

You are such a tease :jestera::jestera:

Now ain't that the pot callin the kettel black!:biggrin:

[markdonzi]

Question?
If this boat has trim and not tilt. what exactly does that mean? I need to pull into a shallow boathouse with my boat and will need to raise the lower unit up as I come in. Is that possible or does it just raise unit on trailer?

markdonzi

[Just Say N20]

This is just from my personal experience, so others can share if they know what a "factory certified" answer might be.

I had a similar situation with my 1976 X-18 (picture below). The tilt is designed to simply get the outdrive tilted up for trailering, and as such is not made to handle the force of forward thrust from the prop in addition to the weight of the outdrive. If you notice, many of the transom shots of older boats with Volvo outdrives (when boat is on the trailer) will show a jury-rigged line going from the rear lifting eye to the outdrive, to help hold the drive in the up position.

That being said, I used to be able to "tilt" the unit up SLIGHTLY (too much is bad for U-joints under load) in neutral, and then put it in gear at idle and move slowly forward. I learned early that almost any throttle would force the outdrive back down to its original position. I did this as little as possible, because it was obviously not designed to be operated this way.

[boldts]

I agree with N2O. I had a Volvo with tilt but no trim. In shallow water, I too would use the trailer tilt to lift the drive a little bit and then place the throttle into drive with no addional throttle. Just be sure to make sure you put the drive back down before jumping into the gas again. Otherwise you'll hear a loud bang when the drive comes down again and makes contact with the trim rod in the transom shield. For trailering, I used a piece of 4 X 4 wood post between the trim rod and the exhaust inlet to the drive. (Mine had thru hull with no thru drive exhaust.) I then took a threaded rod on each side of the wood block and used a rubber bungy cord up thru the 2 metal pieces on each side of the drive reconnecting the bungy on the other side of the wood block. This setup was a little cleaner than tying rope down around the drive from the rear ski eye.

BTW, Volvo actually uses a U shaped rod that mounts into the one higher than the rest hole above the trim rod holes. This rod also holds the drive in a up position for trailering. You simply tilt the drive down once this rod is in place. It takes the pressure off the tilt piston and will help save the seals which should be done no matter which method you use to keep the drive up while trailering.